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A Cheerful Greenhouse 

Rightly manaced, a Greenhouse need never be duller than this. 



THE GARDEN UNDER 
GLASS 



BY 

WILLIAM F. ROWLES 



WITH NUMEROUS PRACTICAL DIAGRAMS 

FROM DRA WINGS BY G- D- ROWLES 

AND THIRTY-TWO ILLUSTRATIONS FROM 

PHOTOGRAPHS 



^ 



PHILADELPHIA 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 

LONDON: GRANT RICHARDS LTD. 

1917 



1A 



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PRINTED IN CRBAT BRITAIN BY THE RIVERSIDE PRESS LIMITED 
EDINBURGH 






CONTENTS 

PART I 

THE CONSTRUCTION OF GLASS HOUSES AND FRAMES 



Introduction 
I. The Amateur's Greenhouse 
II. A Modest Conservatory 

III. A Small Fruit House 

IV. A Forcing House or Pit 

V. Pits, Frames and Handlights 



PAGE 

xiii 

3 
19 

23 
27 
29 



PART II 

POPULAR GREENHOUSE PLANTS 

A Foreword . 

VI. The Best Flowering Plants 

VII. The Best Foliage Plants 

VIII. Beautiful Bulbs for Forcing 

IX. Beautiful Plants for Forcing 

X. Outdoor Plants in the Greenhouse 

XI. Other Worthy Plants for the Greenhouse 129 

XII. Plants for Various Purposes 

XIII. Forwarding Bedding Plants in the Green 
house 

V 



37 
39 
105 
117 
121 
123 



140 
146 



vi CONTENTS 

PART III 

FRUIT UNDER GLASS 

CHAPTER 

XIV. An Epitome of Vine Culture 
XV. Peaches and Nectarines . 
XVI. Forcing Strawberries in Pots 
XVII. Tomatoes in the Greenhouse 
XVIII. Cucumbers and Melons 



PAGE 
166 



PART IV 

VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

XIX. Forcing Vegetables . . . 193 

XX. Forwarding Plants for Vegetable Plot 200 

PART V 

GREENHOUSE WORK 

XXI. Propagation under Glass . . . 205 

XXII. Potting and Potting Soils. . . 216 

XXIII. Water for Greenhouse Plants . . 229 

XXIV. Feeding and Top-dressing . . . 238 
XXV. Housing, Staging and Arranging Plants 245 

XXVI. Heating and Stoking . . . 256 

XXVII. Ventilating, Hardening off and Shading 261 
XXVIII. Staking and Tying . . . 269 

XXIX. Care of Young Plants . . . 273 



CONTENTS vii 

PART VI 

MISCELLANEA 

CHAPTER PAGE 

XXX. The Amateur's Frame . . . 281 

XXXI. Greenhouse Pests and their Extermina- 
tion ..... 287 
XXXII. A Greenhouse Calendar . . . 305 
Glossary ..... 343 
Index ..... 365 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING PAGE 



A Fine Example of a Well-grown Azalea Indica . 40 
The Glorious Winter-flowering Begonia, Gloire de 

Lorraine . . . . . .42 

Begonia, Gloire de Lorraine, suitable for flower- 
ing IN THE Drawing-room . . '44 
Border Carnations. Well worth growing in the 

Greenhouse for Display or for Cut Blooms . 52 

Cyclamen just commencing to flower. The Foliage 

as well as the Flower is distinctly ornamental 56 

A Very Effective Arrangement of Chrysanthe- 
mums, showing Various Types . . .60 

Decorative Chrysanthemums grouped "en masse" 

IN THE Greenhouse . . . .62 

A Creditable Bloom of the Large-flowering Type 
OF Chrysanthemum, which is still largely 

GROWN despite THE PROPHECY THAT IT WILL LOSE 

ITS Popularity . . . . .64 

Cineraria Stellata, showing its Stately Habit and 

Pretty Flowers . . . . .66 

A Bold Group of the Star Cineraria . . 68 

The Freesia — an Indispensable Plant to those who 

VALUE Fragrance . . . '72 



X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGE 

Fuchsia Phenomenal. A Fine Variety which has 

STOOD the Test of Time . . . -74 

A Well-grown Batch of Gloxinias. The Flowers 
last well in Water and the Plants flower 
over a prolonged Period . . • 7^ 

Hippeastrums, which make quite a Gorgeous Dis- 
play AND ARE NOT FASTIDIOUS IN THE MATTER OF 

Culture . . . . . .80 

Hydrangea HoRTENSis. Naturally of a Pink Colour, 
the Flowers may be made quite Blue by feed- 
ing WITH A Chemical Compound . . .82 

Zonal Pelargonium — King of Denmark. Probably 
THE Most Popular Double Variety. It is use- 
ful alike for Greenhouse Decoration and for 
Bedding . . . . . .92 

Show Pelargonium. Plants of this Size may be 

raised from Cuttings in less than a Year . 94 

Primula Obconica, which might almost be described 
as Perpetual Flowering. The New Hybrid 
Forms are a Vast Improvement on the Old Type 96 

The Beautiful Yellow Calla Lily, Richardia 
Elliotiana, showing its Silver - spangled 
Foliage . . . . . .98 

Polypodium Knighti^e. a Beautiful Fern for a 

Basket ...... 114 

Spiraea Queen Alexandra. A Beautiful Blush- 
coloured Spir^a. Splendid for flowering 
with gentle Forcing in May . . . 122 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xi 

FACING PAGE 

Campanula Pyramidalis. The Chimney Campanula. 
A Striking Plant when alone but when a Group 
IS made the Effect is considerably enhanced 124 

Araucaria Excels a. One of the best Room Plants. 

It is very easily grown . . . 130 

Datura Knightii. Does well as a Greenhouse 

Climber if treated generously . . 132 

Lachenalia Tricolor. A Very Pretty Plant for 

Baskets or Pots ..... 134 

A Fine Example of Lilium Speciosum Roseum . 136 

Lachenalia Penaula. A Splendid Plant for making 

up a Well-flowered Basket . . . 144 

Zonal Pelargonium. Most useful as a Flowering 
Plant for Autumn and Winter, giving a Rich 
and Varied Display .... 310 

Primula Malacoides. A Dainty Primula, producing 
Sweetly Scented Flowers in Great Profusion 
and over a long period . . . 320 

The Crested Cyclamen, which flowers quite as 

freely as the ordinary form . . . 324 

A Colony of the Chaste White Arum Lily, known 

ALSO AS Calla and Richardia .^thiopica . 334 

Lilium Speciosum and Auratum, well grown and 

effectively grouped .... 34o 



INTRODUCTION 

I WOULD like to explain the scope of this work. I do not 
know of any other popular book which deals fully with 
the culture of fruit, flowers and vegetables under glass. 
We expect, of course, in the large and costly works of many 
volumes to find full details of all departments of garden- 
ing, but although there are several works devoted to 
greenhouse plants, I do not know of any work which 
includes the culture of fruit and vegetables under glass. 

This book deals with all aspects of the subject — the 
management of frame or conservatory, the forcing of 
radishes as well as the flowering of orchids. 

When an amateur has a greenhouse he does not confine 
himself solely to the culture of ornamental plants, although 
undoubtedly they would form the predominant partner. 
He uses his greenhouse also for the growing of tomatoes, 
melons, cucumbers and perhaps a grape vine, a peach, or a 
fig-tree ; for raising seedlings of flowering plants for the 
garden (such as stocks, asters, antirrhinums, etc.) ; for 
raising early vegetables ; for forwarding crops, such as 
onions, leeks, beans, peas, etc. ; and for wintering plants 
which are not hardy. Nor is the amateur alone in this, 
for in large establishments, where there are many glass- 
xiii 



xiv INTRODUCTION 

houses, there is no clear dividing Hne between fmit and 
flowers. We often find them grown together in the same 
house, while seldom indeed is a house given over exclus- 
ively to forcing vegetables, that work being done in fruit 
and plant houses where space is available and the condi- 
tions correct. 

As among my readers there will be some who can afford 
to have a house specially for the display of decorative 
plants, I have dealt with the conservatory, and also for 
the same reason with the vinery ; but throughout the 
book I have kept before me the needs of the man who has 
but one greenhouse and is afflicted by the possession of that 
ill-matched pair — limited space and unlimited ambition. 

I have endeavoured to make my information clear and 
concise, and for the sake of those who are on the very 
threshold of garden knowledge I have avoided the use of 
technical terms, and have presumed no knowledge what- 
ever on the part of the reader. I have endeavoured to 
show clearly not only what to do and when to do it, but 
what is more important, how to do the actual work in 
such a way as to ensure success. This much I may safely 
claim, that after a careful perusal of this book the reader 
will be in a fair way to having a greenhouse affording 
beautiful plants and flowers for his rooms, delicious fruit 
for his table and fresh early vegetables for the kitchen, 
besides giving earlier and better plants for his vegetable 
plot and flower garden : these constitute, to my mind, a 



INTRODUCTION xv 

practical greenhouse. I hope the verdict of my readers 
will be that this is a practical book on the practical green- 
house. 

A few words on the plan which I have adopted : For the 
purpose of clear treatment and to avoid repetition, I have 
found it best to deal separately with the different sections. 
Treating firstly of the constructive portion, I have passed 
on to cultural matters in the three main divisions of fruit, 
flowers and vegetables. It has been found convenient, 
however, to give details of how to do the work in a differ- 
ent section. Thus, by showing how to pot and to water a 
plant I have avoided the necessity of repeating this for 
every plant. So with greenhouse pests, a section devoted 
to them and the remedies and preventive measures pro- 
vides greater clearness than if these facts were indiscrimin- 
ately dotted about the book. 

In order to make the book more practical I have in the 
cultural sections given fuller details for those plants which 
readers are most likely to grow. Thus such flowering 
plants as the pelargonium, gloxinia and primula receive 
far more attention than anthuriums, cattleyas, and 
gardenias, while in the fruit line nothing is mentioned of 
pines and bananas, which are seldom grown in England 
now, A copious calendar at the end will, I think, be 
appreciated. Some portions of the advice given have 
already appeared in The East Anglian Daily Times. 

My readers must be the final judges of the value of this 



xvi INTRODUCTION 

work, and I trust they will show their appreciation by 
digesting the contents, converting them into practice, and 
acquainting their friends with the source of their inspira- 
tion. In this way they can greatly extend the successful 
growth of fruit, flowers and vegetables under glass, and 
make this part of their garden both useful and beautiful, 
so that in truth and reality they may have a " garden 
under glass." 

William F. Rowles. 



PART I 

THE CONSTRUCTION OF GLASS HOUSES 
AND FRAMES 



CHAPTER I 

THE amateur's GREENHOUSE 

An All-round House 

I WOULD like it to be distinctly understood that I do not 
intend to show how to make a greenhouse in the sense in 
which a joiner would understand the term. I can lay no 
claim to skill in carpentry, but I do pretend to a knowledge 
of the needs of plants, and of the means of arranging the 
greenhouse and its interior equipage so as to secure for 
them the best conditions. Sanitary conditions in the 
sense of affording plenty of light, air, drainage, etc., are 
as essential to health in plant as in human life. I do not 
advise readers generally to make their own greenhouse, 
for unless their trade lies in that direction the ex- 
periment is likely to be anything but successful ; but 
by assimilating a knowledge of the essential conditions 
they may insist on the greenhouse being practical and 
useful. 

At present I have in mind what we might call an all- 
round plant house which will serve for all the purposes 
hinted at in the Introduction. Such a house does not tend 
to perfection in culture, but often it is the most that can 
be done. If we cannot have a perfect greenhouse let us 
at least have a practical one. We have to consider as 
succinctly as possible aspect, site, size and probable 
cost. 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



Site and Aspect 

Most of my readers will be engaged in their usual avoca- 
tions during the day, and will in many cases be able to 
attend personally to their greenhouse only in the morning 
and evening. Therefore I would advise a south-west 
aspect. In this way it will gain the full benefit of the after- 
noon sun, and a great deal during the evening, so that at 
the owner's return the temperature will not have fallen 
very low. Shelter from cold winds is recommended, as 
being a saving in the fuel bill, but this must not involve 
shade from neighbouring buildings or overhanging trees. 

The site is mainly a local question, but we must bear in 
mind that it tends to economy to have water laid on, to 
have the greenhouse not too distant from the dwelling, 
and so situated that the necessary potting soil, fuel, etc., 
may be got quite close to it, and that the smoke from the 
chimney will not prove a nuisance in the dwelling. 



Size and Cost 

The size of the greenhouse must be in due proportion to 
tne needs and means of the owner, and the spare time at 
his disposal. This may be considered a platitude, but 
the principle is so wantonly violated that it needs to be 
emphasised. To have a large greenhouse half empty, 
besides giving a bad impression, means a great waste in 
first cost and entails a heavier charge for maintenance 
and repair. On the other hand, to be cramped for room 
during greater part of the year means ruin to many of the 
plants, a struggling existence to the others, and dis- 
appointment bordering on disgust to the owner. 

Where the wish is to have a display of flowering plants 



THE AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE 5 

in the greenhouse as well as in the rooms, and where the 
raising of early vegetables and forcing of fruit is to be done, 
then will the greenhouse need to be large. The size must 
bear due proportion to the extent of the garden, and in 
every case the person on the spot will be a better judge than 
I can possibly be. To make the best use of the green- 
house means that the best use must be made of the plants 
in the outside garden. In these days of hardy plants 
readers are advised not to rely so much on outdoor plants 
which need raising in the greenhouse. A bed or two in 
the front, a few borders, the window boxes and the vases 
may be filled with half-hardy plants, but if other parts 
are planted with hardy subjects it will mean that more 
beautiful plants of an exotic nature can be grown in the 
greenhouse. I shall often have occasion to emphasise 
the importance of frames, for I hold that whoever owns 
a greenhouse can afford a few cold frames, and these 
will very greatly increase the accommodation in the 
greenhouse. 

I would suggest that for the ordinary villa garden a 
comparatively large house would be 30 feet long by 20 
feet wide. Much could be grown in such a house, for it 
would admit of side and central stagings with a path round ; 
and it would add greatly to its utility if frames were 
attached to the sides. This, however, would prove too 
large for many, so that I would suggest one 15 feet by 
ID feet, with one central path through. Others smaller 
than this could be obtained, but I would like to put down 
10 feet by 7 as the minimum. 

The price, of course, depends mainly on the kind and 
quality of the material and also on such local circum- 
stances as the run of the ground, the amount of excava- 
tion to be done, and the distance from the firm erecting it. 
Cheapness in its ordinary sense is seldom to be sought 



6 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

and always to be suspected. Economy may sometimes 
involve a larger initial outlay, but it is certainly better to 
know at the beginning that a large expense is to be borne 
than to be deceived by a small initial outlay involving 
considerable subsequent expense. As with clothing, 
furniture, etc., so with a greenhouse the advice is to give 
as much as you can afford, insisting in every case on good 
quality material and sound workmanship. 

Horticultural builders do not usually catalogue prices, 
because they are liable to considerable fluctuations, so that 
the advice I give is to consult two or more builders of 
repute, stating the wants, the local conditions, and if 
possible giving a ground and a sectional plan of the 
structure required. 

The Ideal Plant House 

This is rather a favourite subject with me. So often 
have 1 written on it that I begin to know it by heart. I 
believe that in a perfect plant house the means of afford- 
ing light, air, heat and moisture to the plants should be 
under perfect control. The figures relating to size need not 
be strictly adhered to, but commensurate with the size of 
the greenhouse I consider them ideal. I would have this 
plant house of a span-roofed pattern, with its gables facing 
north and south to give equal light on all sides. This, 
however, is not imperative. I would have the length 
35 feet, the width i8 feet (inside measurements), the height 
to the eaves 5 feet and to the apex 12 feet. The ground floor 
would be about 6 inches above the surrounding ground, 
and there would be but one door. A side staging would 
run round the house 3 feet wide and the central staging 
would be 6 feet wide, leaving an ample width of 3 feet for 
the pathway. Such houses are sometimes built below the 



THE AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE 7 

level of the ground. This affords greater protection and 
often involves a less expenditure in fuel to maintain an 
even temperature, but, except in a bleak situation or where 
it is especially desired to keep the house low, I would not 




Diagram \. — Ideal Plant House : i. Showing position of stagings. 2. The founda- 
tion plan showing : a, rest for hot-water pipes ; l., rest for trellis flooring ; c, rest for 
support of staging; d, water tank. 

favour it. There cannot be the same efficient ventilation, 
there cannot be that free circulation of air which is beloved 
of most plants as in a house well above ground. If the 
house is intended only for forcing, then I am willing to 
concede that it is an advantage. 



Hints on the Structure 

For a house of this size the walls should be 9 inches 
thick with footing working down to 18 inches. The height 



8 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

of the wall would be 3 feet and at intervals of 10 feet it 
would be provided with wooden shutters to admit air 
below the staging and over the hot-water pipes. The 
wall should be whitewashed on the inside. Standing on 
the outer edge of this wall should be 2 feet of wood and 
glass, the wood forming the framework for ventilators 
which would run the whole length of the house and would 
all open at the same time on the same side. The gearing 
would be worked by a lever permitting the light to stand 



Diagram 2. — Sectional plan of same house. 

fully open or to be regulated so as to give but the merest 
chink of air. From this glasswork would spring the roof, 
and on each span at the apex ventilators about eighteen 
inches deep would open the whole length of the house, 
being operated by levers in a similar manner to those at 
the side. The sashes and woodwork of both roof and sides 
should be as slender as is consistent with rigidity ; for the 
fullest possible amount of light will at times be needed, 
and whenever it is too strong it can be subdued by shading. 



THE AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE 9 

To assist in keeping the house rigid tie-rods would be put 
in as shown in the sectional illustration. The panes of 
glass (21 oz. to the foot square) should be well bedded in 
putty and the woodwork should have at least two coats of 
good white lead paint. 




Shading, Heating and Water Supply 

I advise lath roller blinds as being the best. These may 
run on iron sup- 
ports or directly on 
the roof. The 
former method is 
preferable. If the 
ropes are renewed 
annually and a 
point is made of 
setting the roller in 
place before draw- 
ing them up, these 
blinds will last for a 
long time, and will 
do well for dropping 
down on a frosty 
night, when they 
will make a differ- 
ence of two or three 
degrees inside the 
house. Permanent 
shading known by 
such names as 
" summer cloud " 
may be used, but is Fig. 2. 
not so desirable as a movable shading. 




Diagram 3. — Sectional plans of span-roofed green- 
houses, with frames attached to the sides of 



If a permanent 



10 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

shading is decided on a cheap and efficient one can be 
made with lime and skim milk or sour milk. Where 
canvas shadings are used they must be entirely removed 
during the winter months. 

As to heating, I would advise four rows of 4-inch piping 
to be taken round the house beneath the side staging. 
There the heat could be regulated by flow and return valves 
placed just outside the house. An open air pipe or air tap 
should be affixed to the pipes at their highest point and 
the pipes should be locked together by expansion joints. 
The pipes should be affixed to a small sectional boiler such 
as the White Rose or Robin Hood. The pipes should not 
be painted, but for appearance may be covered with 
lampblack. 

The water supply for the greenhouse may largely be 
obtained from the roof if a large tank be provided. I 
know from experience how very economical it is to have 
a large tank beneath the central staging. If this be 4 
feet deep and be practically as long and as wide as the 
central staging, water can be dipped up wherever watering 
is being done and there is no waste of time in running 
backward and forward. By this means also soft water 
only can be used and it is surprising what a large difference 
this makes in the welfare of the plants, for hard water 
does not make for healthy growth, nor (if syringing is 
done with it) for good appearance. 

Flooring and Stagings 

Among the many methods of flooring, such as cement, 
gravel, bricks, flagstones, asphalt, mosaic, boards, iron 
gratings or wooden trellising, I like none better than the 
last. A glance at the diagrams appended will show how 
thej^ are made. Whether the wood run across the house. 



THE AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE ii 

along it or obliquely is mainly a matter of taste. In any 
case the bearers should rest solidly on bricks and be so 
affixed that while they do not " ride," they can easily be 
removed for cleaning beneath and for putting down an 




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Diagram 4. — Types of Greenhouse Flooring : i. Struts set 
laterally. 2. Struts set obliquely. 3. Struts set longitudin- 
ally. 4. Section of Fig. 3 standing on brick pier. 5. Section 
of Fig. I standing on brick pier. 

annual coating of coal ashes. These walks are always dry 
and comfortable, are easily cleaned and yet do not inter- 
fere with the maintenance of moisture. 

I like also trellis stagings, but as it would not be well 



12 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



to have an open trellis standing immediately over the hot- 
water pipes I would advise the erection of a framework 
staging on which sheets of corrugated iron could be placed. 
This could be covered with clean shingle sifted from 

gravel, washed, and 
capable of passing 
a quarter-inch sieve. 
The trellis staging 
could then stand 
about four inches 
over this staging and 
might rest on clean 
bricks. The idea is 
to keep the lower 
staging saturated 
with moisture with- 
out difficulty, and to 
allow a free circula- 
tion of air beneath 
and around the 
plants. It would be 
found a considerable 
advantage to divide 
the staging at the 
top into three parts, 
each being a foot 
wide. Then the 
plants could be ar- 
ranged in tiers or on 
the fiat, according to 
the exigencies of the case. The middle staging could also 
be of the trellis pattern, but here a double staging would 
be unnecessary as there are no hot-water pipes beneath. 
I would advise a tiered staging of nine shelves, each shelf 




Diagraiii 5. — Types of Greenhouse Staging : 
I. Tiered staging for centre of house. 2. Scheme 
to prevent insects crawling on to staging ; a, pan 
filled with water. 3. Double staging, trellis stand- 
ing on bricks over solid staging covered with 
shingle. 4. Side staging formed in tiers. 



THE AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE 13 

being seven or eight inches wide and rising by steps of four 
inches. More plants can be got in a given space without 
overcrowding where tiered stagings are used, and whether 
in flower or not they are displayed to better advantage. 
A method of preventing crawling insects from getting 




Diagram 6. — Making Most of Space: i. Shelves and 
stagings in a vinery. 2. Lean-to plant house with shelves and 
stagings : a, shelves ; b, stagings ; c, space beneath staging for 
rhubarb, seakale, and for drying off plants ; d, hanging basket ; 
e, hot-water pipes on which seed boxes may be set until 
germination. 

on to the staging is to have the bricks or half-bricks or 
other stands supporting the stagings rest in iron or tin pans 
to be kept filled with water. 



M 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



Making the Most of Space 

Especially in the " all-round house " should the most be 
made of space. This end is to a considerable extent 




Diagram 7. — Propagators : i. On staging of house. 2. Over 
hot-water pipes : a, space for cuttings, etc. ; b, roofing slate ; 
c, cocoa-nut fibre. 3. Permanent propagator over pipes. 
4. Makeshift propagator : a, handlight beneath staging. 

achieved by having tiered stagings, which are certainly a 
great saving of space ; but a further use of the house may 
be effected by erecting shelves in suitable positions. These 



THE AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE 15 

positions are best shown in diagram. The space beneath 
the staging may be used for resting or dr5ring off plants, 
for setting pots of bulbs just introduced for forcing, for 



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Diagram 8. — Compact Blocks of Houses : i. Plan of 
four houses (a) on ground-level, and two houses {b) below 
ground-level, with frames (c) at back. 2. Sectional view of 
same block. 3. Three plant houses {a) and corridor 
(b) divided into three parts. 



forcing seakale, rhubarb, asparagus, mustard and cress, 
for plants which are of hardy constitution and for which 
space cannot at the moment be found. 



i6 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



A Plant Propagator 

This is a necessity to the greenhouse owner. He may 
easily fix one over the hot-water pipes at their hottest 
part, enclosing the pipes with zinc, slates, or bricks (boards 
would be likely to warp) in order to direct the heat up 
wards and bring about the condition known as bottom 
heat. The bottom of the propagator, which should con- 
sist of ordinary roofing slates, should be about six inches 



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Diagram g. — Block of Fruit, Plant Houses and Pits : a, vineries ; b, peach 
houses ; c, plant houses ; d, conservatory ; e, pits and frames. 

above the pipes. If some material such as cocoa-nut fibre 
be placed over the slates to a depth of three or four inches 
the pots and pans containing cuttings or seeds may be 
plunged therein. The propagator itself may consist of a 
box about i foot deep and i8 inches to 2 feet wide covered 
by loose sheets of glass i8 inches or 2 feet b)^ i foot. These 
can easily be reversed three times a day or as often as 
moisture adheres to the inner surface. A cool propagator 



THE AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE 17 

without bottom heat may be set on the greenhouse staging 
or even beneath the staging in case of severe restriction of 
space. 

Small Blocks or Ranges of Glass Houses 
For the convenience of those who are so far favoured by 






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c : 




c i 





Diagram lo. — Block of Fruit and Plant Houses : «, vineries ; /', peach 
house ; c, plant houses ; d, frames. 

fortune as to contemplate the erection of several green- 
houses I have given plans which with the references 



i8 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

attached will afford sufficient explanation. In nearly 
every case they are designed from existing blocks, though 
drawn from memory. Having worked in them and found 
them convenient, I commend them to such of my readers 
as can afford them. 



CHAPTER II 
a modest conservatory 

The Conservatory in Window and Room 

The author's difficulty in compiling this book is no mean 
one. He is rightly expected to give such advice as may be 
useful to the amateur with his small greenhouse in town, 
as well as to the wealthy flower lover with his palatial 
conservatory in the country. I endeavour to meet these 
difficulties by telling how best to grow plants, not so much 
to give perfect flowers fit for exhibition, but rather beautiful 
flowering plants, forming an unbroken succession of floral 
beauty. Having had a wide experience of gardening in 
all four quarters of the English compass, I have met with 
most of the difficulties of plant culture and can offer the 
results of this experience to my readers with a considerable 
amount of confidence. 

The window conservatory, as I have ventured to term 
it, could well be more generally a feature of the villa garden. 
I speak of the projection of a glass case from the window, 
which gives more space and more light for plants and 
would be a splendid place for showing to advantage plants 
which have been grown in the greenhouse. The condition 
of atmosphere will be somewhat difficult to adjust, but an 
endeavour should be made to have it as near as possible 
to that of the small conservatory I am about to treat of. 
The window conservatory is not intended for the growing 
of plants — indeed they could be grown there with but very 

19 



20 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



indifferent success — but rather for their display after they 
have been brought to their flowering stage. While so 
arranging the plants that they look well from the outside, 
an endeavour should be made to have a good frontage to 
the room. To secure this, and to give greater interest, it 
would be well to rearrange them frequently. 





Diagram ii. — Small Conservatories: i. Glass case projecting from window — a 
window conservatory. 2. Ground plan of small porch conservatory in angle of 
residence which, in conjunction with Fig. 3, shows position of pathway; space on 
floor for plants and on shelves ahove, provision being made for taking away the 
water so that it does not drip on to plants below. 

I know several very keen amateurs who live in the town, 
and who have but one greenhouse wherein they grow 
a miscellaneous collection of plants, but who contrive 
always to have their windows and rooms gay with flower- 
ing plants. Where a window conservatory cannot be 



A MODEST CONSERVATORY 21 

erected a table could be set in front of the window and the 
plants be artistically arranged thereon. 

The amateur with but one greenhouse has then his 
opportunity. He may show his friends the best of his 
plants in a place where they cannot fail to attract 
attention and where their beauty is not toned down by 
the presence of stem utility, as would be the case in the 
greenhouse. 

The Small Conservatory 

Too often this structure suffers in point of aspect and 
size. It is often added to the dwelling by way of an 
afterthought, and has, of course, to be fitted into the archi- 
tectural scheme without much thought of aspect. I have 
seen conservatories on this account built on the east side 
of a house when we know that a south aspect is superior. 
It is an advantage to have it attached to the dwelling 
because there is then no excuse for crowding the rooms 
with plants ; for however beautiful the presence in a room 
of growing plants, it does not improve their health. If 
not attached to the house the conservatory should be in 
a part of the garden where it will not be too conspicuous 
yet not entirely hidden nor difficult to get at. 

The conservatory, I have said, often suffers in size, for it 
is often too large for the amount of glass (greenhouse and 
frames) which have to supply it with plants. The result 
is that there never can be a really tasteful display because 
the plants have to be set so widely apart, or they have 
been crowded in their growing career in the other house, 
or again because in the endeavour to make the plants look 
well for as long a time as possible they are picked over 
daily until scarcely a bloom is left upon them. The size 
of the conservatory must accord with the means of 



22 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

production in other directions and had better err on the 
side of being too small. 



The Difference between a Conservatory and a 
Greenhouse 

These do not differ merely in name. The conservatory 
should be rather better in appearance, loftier, with a larger 
surface of glass at the sides and better flooring, ample 
means of ventilating and shading, and should have a 
heating arrangement capable of maintaining a minimum 
temperature of 50° by night. It is best that the whole 
of the ground floor be covered with tiles, concrete or some 
similar substance, and that the side staging be movable. 
If the conservatory be of fair size I would dispense with a 
middle staging and put the plants into picturesque groups 
which could be changed according to the character of the 
plants. 

A conservatory need not be large to be beautiful. I know 
such a structure attached to the house which is barely 
ten feet in length and whose breadth could easily be 
spanned with outstretched arms, yet it is always gay with 
flowers supplied by a greenhouse and a few frames and 
gives great delight to its owner. 



CHAPTER III 

a small fruit house 

For Growing Grapes 

In the house which I am going to describe I can promise 
readers they will be able to grow grapes, figs, strawberries 
and tomatoes, besides using the house for forcing seakale, 
asparagus, rhubarb and French beans. In due course 
I will show how a vine, a fig, a few tomatoes and some pot 
strawberries can be grown in the ordinary greenhouse, but 
here we presume that the grower has a liking for fruit and 
has decided to build a small fruit house which will serve 
also for other purposes. 

Probably — and preferably — the shape will be lean-to. 
The house need not be large, 12 feet being a suitable 
width. This would admit of an entirely inside border, and 
with the exception of a width of 2 feet at the back I 
would allow all the space to serve as vine border. This 
space might be retained for fig-trees, for they fruit the 
better if the roots are restricted. I have given plan and 
sectional drawings of fruit houses with scales appended. 

Grape vines could be grown along the front, four feet 
apart, with tomatoes between them ; the back wall might 
be devoted to figs, with tomatoes at each end of the house 
and pot strawberries on the shelves. Then on the portable 
stagings there could be growing plants or boxes of seedlings, 
and beneath the staging, rhubarb, seakale, asparagus 
and chicory could be forced. Thus while grapes predomin- 

23 



24 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



ate and have first consideration, the house cannot be 
anything but eminently practical and useful. Gardeners 

often look askance at 
such combinations, 
preaching always the 
doctrine that grapes 
must have the mono- 
poly of a house — a 
counsel of perfection 
which undoubtedly 
makes for most suc- 
cessful grape culture 
but is decidedly un- 
economical. I have 
seldom seen this 
practised and hope 
never to practise it 
myself. 



A Peach House 

Seldom indeed are 
peaches and vines 
grown in the same 
house, though figs 
will associate with 
either. The experi- 




Diagram 12. — Vinery : i. Showing position 
of rod, and (a) a small border for a fig-tree. 
2. Peach house, showing {a) front trellis on which 
to train trees and {b) trellis on back wall. 



ment would not be likely to prove successful and I shall not 
advise it. If a small house be given over to peaches and 
nectarines they may be grown along the front and also on 
the back wall, but the front trellis will need to be curved 
to admit as much light as possible to the trees at the back. 
Here again tomatoes and pot strawberries may be grown, 
and there might also be a movable staging for plants. 



A SMALL FRUIT HOUSE 



25 



Early potatoes in pots, cauliflowers, lettuces, green peas, 
sweet-peas and all kinds of bedding plants could be grown 
along in such a house. If there is to be a permanent 






iWe 



Diagravi 13. — Peach Cases and Propagating House : 

1. Peach case with glass falling down at sharp angle. 

2. Peach case with projecting coping. 3. Propagating 
house, ground plan. 4. Sectional plan : a, staging over 
pipes ; b, staging at hack ; c, pathway ; d, small fireplace ; 
e, ground-level outside'; _/j steps down teahouse. 

staging it might be well to have an outside border for the 
peaches, the stems of the trees being put through a hole 
in the wall. This will answer well if the border be kept 
warm during winter by being covered with straw or bracken. 



26 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

with sheets of corrugated iron on the top. In width, 
height and general size the peach house might accord 
with the vinery, though a much less width and a sharper 
pitch will serve if economy in building is of prime import- 
ance, and if the production of peaches is practically the 
only end in view. Peach cases (as shown in the illustra- 
tion) are often used for peach growing and stand only 
4 to 6 feet from the wall. They forward the fruit some- 
what and certainly protect the flowers but are scarcely 
as useful for small as for large growers. 



CHAPTER IV 



A FORCING HOUSE OR PIT 



There is another type of house which the amateur might 
like to erect and a very useful house it would be for many 
purposes but especially for propagation and for growing 
cucumbers and melons. These houses are usually sunk in 
the ground for greater natural warmth ; for obviously 
they do not catch the wind so much and there is a smaller 
surface of glass for it to act upon. Moreover, in a forcing 
house, where a warm and fairly close atmosphere is main- 
tained, there is not the same need for bottom ventilation 
as in a general plant house. Such a house as I mean has 
been illustrated, and for those who have a considerable 
amount of glass I would advise that they use it merely 
or mainly for propagation . A propagating frame could be 
built over the hot-water pipes so as to afford bottom heat, 
and a handlight or small box propagator could be put on 
the staging for the propagation of such plants as do not 
need bottom heat, while the open staging would do well 
for such cuttings as pelargoniums and coleuses, which do 
not relish a close atmosphere. 

But the main purpose of the house under review is for 
forcing, and if it be so heated with hot-water pipes that 
heat can be commanded from a night minimum of 50° to 
70°, much forcing, forwarding and propagation can be 
done. 

During the summer-time, when forcing is not done, it can 
be utilised for melons and cucumbers, and, if it be kept 
27 



28 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

cooler and more airy, for tomatoes also. There is, of 
course, no objection to using such a house for cool-house 
plants if the heat be shut off, but it is not designed for Liis, 
the house I described and illustrated earlier being far and 
away more suitable. 

Stove plants such as dracaenas, crotons, eucharis, 
pancratiums, calanthes and gardenias do splendidly 
in such a house, and where space and means allow I would 
certainly advise the building of one. 

A very small boiler is sufficient to maintain the heat, and 
the fuel need be nothing but cinders from the dwelling- 
house. In a house of this description it is usual to reduce 
the space for path, etc., to the narrowest dimensions while 
the staging is made fairly wide. It may be added that a 
house which is kept close and warm needs frequent paint- 
ing if the wood is to be preserved ; for the almost continuous 
presence of condensed moisture is apt to rot the wood. 
Moreover, more washing of the house and whitewashing 
of the walls become necessary owing to the growth of green 
and black slime. 



CHAPTER V 

PITS, FRAMES AND HANDLIGHTS 

Those of my readers who cannot afford a conservatory, 
a plant house, a fruit house, or a forcing house will prob- 
ably be able to indulge in the luxury of a pit, or at any rate 
of a frame. I know many cottagers who have a frame 
and who use it to such good purpose for their vegetable 
plot, their flower border and their allotment that they 
now deem it a necessity. And indeed to the good manage- 
ment of a garden some glass accommodation is necessary. 
Now a frame may be considered the least common de- 
nominator in glass accommodation, for few who own 
handlights or cloches would boast of the extent of their 
glass. 

Heated Pits 

These have at least one row of pipes running through 
them. Usually this runs along the front and returns along 
the back, which is decidedly the best way. Four-inch 
piping is certainly better, as giving more heat, bat three- 
inch piping is often used. Unless these pits are intended for 
growing figs, roses or tall pot plants, they should not be 
very deep. Three feet at the back should be deep enough 
for most plants, and if this be allowed it is always possible 
to raise dwarf er plants nearer to the glass. Nor should the 
width from back to front be more than seven feet, or there 
will be difficulty in watering the plants at the back, which 
will probably result in their being neglected. A founda- 
29 



30 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



tion of nine inches will be sufficient to support the pits, 
the walls of which need not be more than four and a half 
inches thick. If these pits stand in the open the lights will 
be made to slide up and down in the case of those of the 
lean-to shape, but where they are an adjunct to the green- 
house they will need to be hinged at the back and be 
supported with a prop while watering is being done. 




J 




Diagram 14. — Pits and Frames : i. Half-span frame with flow and return 
pipes. 2. Span-roofed frame with staging raised on pots. 3. Plan of a two-light 
wooden frame 8 feet by 6 feet. 4. One of the lights. 



Span-roofed frames also have their lights kept open by 
this means. Wherever the frames stand independent of 
other buildings there should be sufficient room left to draw 
back the lights. It is not at all unusual to find this precept 
transgressed. Obviously it is a great nuisance if through 
the proximity of a wall the lights cannot be drawn off. 
If the amateur cares to go to the expense of a range of pits 
I would certainly advise that they be divided into pairs 
or threes, with brick or board partitions between, as by this 



PITS, FRAMES AND HANDLIGHTS 31 

means plants can be kept closer and afforded different 
treatment. 

Cold Pits 

The only difference between these and others is that 
they are not provided with artificial heat, but, ap it is often 
the plan to put in a lot of heating material to form a 
hotbed, they are usually made deeper than heated pits. 
Being formed of bricks, they keep out more frost than 
wooden frames and on that account are more valued. 
They can be used for a variety of purposes, such as forcing 
potatoes, asparagus, lettuces, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, 
marrows, for striking cuttings of pentstemons, calceolarias, 
antirrhinums, violas, marguerites, for plunging bulbs and 
strawberries, for wintering carnations and hardy plants 
in pots, for hardening off all kinds of bedding plants, for 
violets, and for such plants as geraniums, tree carnations, 
chrysanthemums, etc., in the late spring months. This 
list of purposes to which they may be put should surely 
be sufficient recommendation. 



Wooden Frames 

These can be bought ready made and are probably 
better so ; as there is nothing very intricate in their design, 
however, any handy man with some elementary tools 
could put one together. The cheap form of frames should 
be avoided ; they are scarcely worth the rail carriage, 
for they warp and rot and quickly make one disgusted with 
gardening. A solidly built frame may incur a larger 
outlay in the beginning, but once made it will last for years. 

As the illustrations are supplied with scale, it will not be 
necessary to write about dimensions. The ordinary two- 
light frame will be found the most useful, for it can easily 



32 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

be moved about. Later in this book I devote a chapter 
to the " Amateur's Frame," and there I will briefly show 
its great value and the many purposes to which it may be 
put. 

In most cases it will be best to stand the frame on a 
solid bottom, where it will not get flooded with water. 
It is an advantage to stand it on a course of brickwork 
and to fill up the space beyond the bottom of the woodwork 
with clinkers covered with coal ashes. The position of the 
frame depends to a great extent on the plants to be grown, 
but usually an open position (not bleak) and a southern 
aspect are recommended. 

Skeleton Frames 

These are formed of rough planks and left open, except 
in very severe frosts, when they are covered with mats, 
tarpaulins, or sheets of corrugated iron. They are very 
useful for plunging bulbs, for putting plants before or after 
they are forced and for striking cuttings of hardy plants 
. which during the first year relish a little protection. They 
are also an excellent shelter for hardening off plants which 
are eventually to be used in the vegetable or flower garden. 
It is well to make them of such a size that a tarpaulin or 
sheets of corrugated iron or ordinary archangel mats will 
easily cover them. 

Handlights and Cloches 

These glass covers are eminently useful for protecting and 
for forwarding plants. They are used mostly in connection 
with the vegetable garden, though for forwarding Christ- 
mas roses and for protecting cuttings they are invaluable. 
Much has been heard of the cloche during recent years. 



PITS, FRAMES AND HANDLIGHTS 33 

when so-called French gardening has been greatly boomed, 
and although I do not wish readers to rely on the stories 
of huge profits I would like them to realise that the cloche 
and the handlight are supremely useful in any garden. 



Miniature and Makeshift Frames 

I do not advise them — they are only meant for the very 
poor and the very niggardly. Experience tells me they are 
a delusion and their only purpose (and that an evil one) 
is to supply broken glass to the garden. Amateurs are 
inclined to form a frame of an old box and an old window- 
sash. If it be made into a frame bearing all the good points 
of a frame except its size, it may be tolerated ; but if left 
in the elementary box and casement stage it will be the 
means of destroying more plants than it will save. On 
this account I know many amateurs have had failures 
and have then railed against gardeners who have advised 
frame culture. I cannot honestly recommend makeshift 
frames. 

A miniature frame, however (say 3 feet by 2 feet), 
properly made so that it will throw off the rain, is a very 
useful concern and well repays the expense incurred in- 
making or purchasing. It will repay also a couple of good 
coats of paint. 



PART II 

POPULAR GREENHOUSE PLANTS 



A FOREWORD 

It is no easy matter for the author to decide how best to 
treat this portion of the work. Several courses are open 
to him, the easiest being to treat in alphabetical order all 
plants grown in the greenhouse. This method, however, 
I have dismissed as being too elementary and too tedious 
and lacking in interest alike for reader and author. I 
have preferred to pick out first of all the best flowering 
plants and then the best foliage plants and to treat them 
at some length, leaving a chapter giving brief and concise 
cultural information on such subjects as the minority may 
choose to grow. This will serve my purpose in another way, 
for readers are, I imagine, more likely to try their cultural 
skill on the plants to which prominence is given and which 
will most assuredly give good returns for good treatment. 
Having achieved success with these, they will be better 
equipped with knowledge, enthusiasm and experience to 
tackle other subjects to which their tastes may incline them. 
Notes are given on the plants most useful for a given 
purpose, while I have also decided to deal separately with 
bulbs for forcing, with plants for forcing, with outside 
plants which are flowered in the greenhouse, and with the 
raising of annuals and biennials for planting in the out- 
side garden. It is difficult to draw clear lines of distinc- 
tion in this matter, for a plant which one may consider 
all-important another despises. However, my aim is 

37 



38 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

perspicuity and my endeavour to give an even balance to 
the book by not treating one part at undue length to the 
curtailment or omission of useful knowledge. Some day 
I hope to write a book on the Amateur's Greenhouse or 
Conservatory, when I shall devote myself solely to showing 
how to maintain a successional supply of beautiful plants. 



CHAPTER VI 

the best flowering plants 

Azaleas 

Though often regarded as a forcing subject, the azalea 
is an excellent greenhouse plant, when treated in a natural 
manner. I allude here to the Indian azalea. Although 
botanists have now classed all under the name rhodo- 
dendron, it will be many years before the mass of gardeners 
adopt the name for their old favourite. 

The best varieties are, of course, expensive, and this 
rule applies practically throughout gardening, but some 
beautiful forms can be obtained very reasonably. I do 
not advise readers to attempt to raise or graft these them- 
selves. Even the best gardeners find it preferable to buy 
short plants with good heads from a nurseryman who 
makes a speciality of the subject. Though forming a mass 
of flower when well grown, it cannot be said that they are 
of easy culture, for many are the failures with them, the 
chief cause of this being bad watering. Azaleas are peat- 
loving plants and like moisture, but to subject them to the 
extremes of being too wet or too dry will ruin the small 
roots and cause the plant to collapse or lose its foliage. 

The soil found most suitable for azaleas is made up of 
two parts fibrous peat, from which most of the dust has 
been shaken, one part fibrous loam treated in a similar 
manner, one part good oak leaves dried and rubbed 
through a sieve, and some charcoal to preserve sweetness, 

39 



40 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

and sharp sand to further ensure porosity. This should 
be thoroughly mixed, and used when moist so that it will 
hang somewhat. 

The plants should be potted up as soon as they are 
received from the nursery in clean, well-drained pots 
which will comfortably contain them, and the soil will 
need to be well firmed. Careful watering is essential, for 
if the centre of the ball of earth becomes dry nothing 
short of immersion for several hours in a pail of water will 
remedy the evil. Subsequent potting is best done about 
a month after the plants have flowered. At each potting 
the ball should be reduced in size to make room for fresh 
compost. Flower heads that are faded and seed pod 
should be removed , and until growth is completed detention 
in a warm house, with daily syringing, is advised. Later, 
after due hardening, they may be stood outside for a couple 
of months though not in full sunshine. If it is intended 
to force azaleas they should be brought into heat gradually. 
Hard forcing is not advised. 

Good varieties are Deutsche Perle, Vervaeneana, 
Empress of India, Reine des Fleurs, Baronne de Vriere 
and Sigismund Rucker. The great enemy is thrip (see 
Greenhouse Pests). 

Begonias, Tuberous and Fibrous-rooted 

Without the begonia our greenhouse would not be so 
bright either in summer or winter. Some regard it as a 
difficult subject because they have not managed to get 
their seeds to germinate, or have found the bulbs rotten 
after drying off. These difficulties are easily surmounted. 
Let us deal firstly with the tuberous section. There are 
doubles and singles of all shades and they can be grown 
from seeds, from tubers, or from cuttings. 








A FINE EXAMPLE OF A WELL-GROWN AZALEA InDICA 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 41 

The seeds are very minute, resembling powder, and 
should be sown as evenly as possible on the surface of 
a pan of sandy soil, well drained and previously watered. 
The seeds must not be covered with soil. A sheet of glass 
and a sheet of paper will give the necessary shade and 
closeness of atmosphere until germination takes place. 
Personally I prefer to sow the seeds as early in the year as 




Diagram 15. — Tuberous Begonia : i. Seeds sown in pan, covered with 
sheet of glass and sheet of paper. 2. Seedlings pricked off. 3. Plantlet for 
potting singly. 4. Dormant tuber. 5. Tuber just starting. 6. Tuber 
potted too deeply. 7. Not deep enough. 8. Correct depth. 

possible, putting the pan in a temperature of 60° to 65°. 
It is probable that the seeds will come up thickly. In 
any case they should be pricked off into other pans or 
boxes as soon as they can be handled. This is a deli- 
cate and tedious but necessary operation. The after- 
treatment of seedlings consists of potting them along as 
they fill their receptacles with roots and giving them a 
more open atmosphere and cooler temperature as the 
season advances. 



42 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Begonias from Tubers 

The great advantage of buying tubers or growing along 
such as were flowered the previous year is that we are sure 
of the kind and colour of the flowers, and such assurances 
cannot be given by any seedsman, though there is always 
a strong presumption as to their eventual character. A 
fair price has to be paid for good tubers but they are really 
worth it, I have a great liking for the doubles for green- 
house work. They last longer and are more imposing 
than the singles, which, however, are by no means to be 
despised. 

The starting of the tubers may take place in February, 
though if several are grown it would be an advantage to 
divide them into several batches so as to keep up a suc- 
cession over several months. Personally I am of opinion 
that begonias do not relish root disturbance, and for this 
reason I make it a practice to break them up only once in 
three years. Another point worth noting is that they like 
a somewhat spongy soil made only moderately firm. It 
will be noticed that in a firm soil most of the roots will be 
found near the surface. 

Where the policy of leaving the plants in their pots is 
pursued, they should, before starting, be put into a tank or 
pail of water for at least an hour to make sure that the 
whole ball of soil is saturated. After this, draining of 
surplus water must be arranged for and introduction to a 
temperature of about 60°. Shading from bright sunshine 
is essential while in a close, moist atmosphere, though 
rigid adherence to this precept when in cooler and airier 
quarters is not imperative. I do not advise overhead 
syringing. Not until the plants dry quickly should they 
be fed, and then it may be done with liquid cow manure. 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 43 

soot-water and a fortnightly sprinkling with Clay's 
fertiliser. For three days water with liquid manure and 
for the next four days with clear water. 

As growth advances it will tend to greater sturdiness 
to remove the plants to cooler quarters, where they can 
stand clear of one another over a bed of moist shingle. 
Short stakes set so as not to injure the corm will prevent 
the growths from being broken off at their base. When 
flowering is over drier conditions should prevail, for the 
plants will be eventually dried off. When thoroughly 
dried they may be set on a shelf or beneath the staging. 

A very good method of increasing these begonias is by 
cuttings taken in the summer. They will root in a cool 
propagator and will form a corm by the end of the year. 
A good policy to pursue is to buy seeds from a reliable 
source, grow along the seedlings quickly to their flowering 
stage and then take cuttings of the most desirable kinds ; 
besides growing these selected plant on for another year. 

The Begonia Lloydii is a very fine type of plant which 
can be raised from seed but does not come true to colour. 
It admits, however, of selection by cuttings and tubers 
as mentioned above. 

If varieties are to be bought, a good selection would 
be got from Messrs Blackmore & Langdon, who make a 
speciality of this subject and grow the finest in the country. 
A polite post card will bring along a list of the latest 
introductions. 

Winter- FLOWERING Begonias 

With this title is ever associated that beautiful variety, 
Gloire de Lorraine, which is one of the hybrids which have 
come to us by means of Begonia socrotana. Even this 
brilliant variety seems likely to be ousted from first place 



44 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

as a winter flower, for others with larger leafage and flowers 
are now grown and shown in select circles. 

The begonia in question is a fibrous-rooting one, and on 
that account should not be wholly dried off, although 
after flowering very little water will be needed. It is 
unfortunate that many growers find it very difficult to 
procure cuttings, which must be of a basal character as with 
chrysanthemums. Hence whenever a sucker or cutting 
is found it should be inserted. They root with consider- 
able ease in a warm propagator, especially if put into cocoa- 
nut fibre, and should be grown along in a temperature of 
about 60°. Usually they will branch out freely ; if not, 
the plants will be worthless. A moist atmosphere, a fair 
amount of shade and overhead syringing will greatly help 
them along, but on no account should they be over-potted. 
The flower buds will be picked off until September or 
October. Once in flower they produce a blaze of bloom 
for several months. These plants may also be propa- 
gated from the leaf. Fully matured leaves only should 
be used and they root very quickly in cocoa-nut fibre, 
though one often has to wait some time for the young 
growth to throw up. I do not consider this a very reliable 
method of propagation. Old plants may, of course, be 
grown on a second or third year but young plants are more 
vigorous and satisfactory. 

Some of the new winter-flowering begonias which I 
would advise my readers to purchase are best obtained 
from Messrs Clibran of Manchester, who have brought out 
most of these deserving novelties. 

Begonias of the Rex type, grown for the beauty of their 
foliage, are not much in evidence now, though they repay 
culture. They propagate very readily from the leaf. 
Gloire de Sceaux is a variety which combines beauty of 
leaf and flower though some growers experience difficulty 




Begonia Gi.oire de Lorraine, suitable for flowering in the 
drawing-room 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 45 

with it. The old fuchsioides is by no means to be 
despised, nor are the climbing varieties of begonia which 
are often found on the greenhouse wall. 

It remains to be said that a suitable soil for begonias 
would consist of two parts fibrous loam, of a kind which 
does not quickly rot, one part flaky leaf-soil, one part 
mushroom manure, some dried and broken cow manure, 
a liberal dusting of Clay's fertiliser and mortar rubble 
to keep the compost open. 

The Calceolaria 

A glorious plant when well grown, but the growing is 
difficult. It is one of those plants (and there are several) 
which need to be kept under strict observation — ^which 
will brook no relaxation of attention — ^no neglect. 

Seeds may be sown from April till July, and from sowing 
to flowering there is usually the lapse of a year. Careful 
sowing, careful pricking off, careful watering, cool treat- 
ment and close attention — this epitomises the correct 
culture of calceolarias. The seeds, being very minute, 
require to be distributed as evenly as possible over the 
moist surface of a seed pan of finely sifted sandy soil half 
filled with crocks. No covering of soil or sand must be 
allowed. A sheet of glass, a sheet of paper, and such 
shelter as can be found in a cold frame are all that are 
required until germination takes place. Until the seedlings 
are pricked off, overhead watering should not be given, the 
pan, instead, being immersed to its rim in water until the 
water is absorbed by the soil and the surface becomes wet. 

Pricking off requires to be done at an early stage, care 
being exercised to avoid breakage of the tiny rootlets. 
An open soil containing sand and leaf-soil in a slightly 
larger proportion than loam will aid in keeping on the right 



46 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

side as regards moisture. The stages of potting should be 
from the pricking-off box to 2-inch pots, thence successively 
to 3-inch pots, 5-inch and 7-inch, in which size they should 
flower and make handsome specimens. 

At the final potting the soil may be fibrous loam two 
parts, good leaf -soil one part, mushroom manure one part, 
a sufficient amount of sifted mortar rubble and sand to 
open the soil, a dusting of Clay's fertiliser, and, if 
possible, a small quantity of chopped sphagnum moss. 
A small quantity of dried and sifted cow manure would 
be appreciated. 

Otherwise the main cultural points are cool treatment 
in a frame or greenhouse, a slight shade, moisture in the 
atmosphere but not on the leaves, frequent fumigation to 
keep down the fly to which they are greatly addicted, and 
feeding with liquid manure only when the pots are well 
filled with roots. Clean dry pots rather deeply crocked 
should always be insisted on, and the plants should never 
remain pot-bound. As they approach flowering a few neat 
stakes will be needed to keep the flowers and growths 
upright. A few dozen plants well on flower and set up in a 
bank relieved by ferns make a splendid floral picture and 
will repay the extra attention involved. 

Carnations for the Greenhouse 

It is difficult to tell in a chapter what would easily crowd 
a book, but as the garden outside would lose interest with- 
out carnations so would the garden under glass. Three 
types of carnations are recognised : the border carnation, 
the perpetual-flowering and the Malmaison. Were I 
growing plants for a conservatory only, I would dismiss 
the perpetuals, grow but a few borders, and concentrate 
strongly on the Malmaisons. They may be massed more 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 47 

successfully, present a bolder display and the flowers 
individually are more imposing than those of the other 
types. It behoves us, however, to give directions for the 
culture of each section, for it cannot be denied that the 
perpetuals are more useful as cut flowers. 



The Perpetual-Flowering Carnation 

The best time for propagation is in early autumn^ if 
cuttings are available, and the cuttings should be off the 
old plants which were flowered the previous year and have 
been stood outside for the purpose. Failing this, young 
cuttings may be procured early in the year. Inserted in 
the usual way, the pots being plunged in a warm propagator 
with bottom heat, the cuttings should root in about six 
weeks' time so as to be fit for transference to single pots. 
Many growers now make a practice of rooting the cuttings 
in pure clean sand. If this can be kept from getting dry it 
is no doubt a splendid plan, and is in most cases successful ; 
but until amateurs have experimented and proved them- 
selves successful at it, I would advise the usual mixture of 
sandy soil. A method of propagation now often practised, 
and one which I can unreservedly recommend, is to layer 
the plants in the summer or early autumn in the same way 
as border or Malmaison carnations. 

During the winter, as a young plant the tree carnation 
should be kept rather warm, say in a temperature of 55° 
to 60°. A moist bottom and daily syringing with weak 
soot-water or clear soft water will prevent the soil from 
drying much, so that they will have formed a nice net- 
work of roots in a few weeks' time. Gradual shifts in 
potting will eventually lead to the 7-inch pot as the 
flowering size. 

The soil at this final potting might consist of three parts 



48 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



good yellow fibrous loam, one part leaf -soil, one part mortar 
rubble and sand or road grit, one part mushroom manure 
and a good sprinkling each of charcoal and Clay's fertiliser. 
In arriving at a fairly correct estimate it may be useful to 
know that a barrowful of soil will be sufficient to pot 





4 



o c 



Diagravi it. — Carnations: i. Layer of Malmaison. 2. Cutting of American tree 
carnation. 3. Rooted cutting potted up. 4. Same set in warm frame. 5. A frame- 
work set over in summer to ward off rain. 

two hundred rooted cuttings into 3-inch pots and to 
transfer forty plants from 3-inch to 6-inch pots. 

But between the first and the final pottings the plants 
will need much cultural attention . Pinching of the growths 
should happen when the plants are about four inches high, 
and later when the resulting growths are six inches high. 
Cooler treatment may be given in the spring, so that by the 
time the 5-inch pots are reached they will have been placed 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 49 

in frames where the lights can be removed whenever 
desirable. 

Little in the way of staking and tying will be needed until 
they are set in the open, which will take place in June, after 
the bedding plants have been got rid of, and then one or 
three stakes may be set to each plant, according to the 
number of growths. Three stakes give a firmer and neater 
support. 

As successful carnation culture consists of complete 
control over the plants it is advisable to have a framework 
set over the plants in such a way that at nights some 
lights, some sheets of corrugated iron or a tarpaulin may 
be set over the plants, and also during the day when heavy 
storms occur. Frequent syringings on fine days will keep 
the plants vigorous, free from red-spider and to a large 
extent also from green-fly. A fortnightly syringing with 
sulphide of potassium at the rate of one ounce to three 
gallons of water will also check the spread of the rust 
fungus. 

As with other carnations so with perpetuals, feeding 
may be freely done when the pots are well filled with roots. 
Liquid cow manure, the drainings from the stable and 
soot-water are splendid stimulants, while in a dry form I 
would advise Clay's, Peruvian guano and Wood's carna- 
tion manure sprinkled over the soil once a fortnight, using, 
of course, only one at a time. 

By the beginning of September the plants will need to 
be brought into the greenhouse, where they will thrive well 
in a temperature of 50° with the usual attention. A little 
air should be left on at all times, if it can be done without 
unduly lowering the temperature. I have left air on 
in a carnation house when there has been 18° of frost, 
and although this would not be advisable in every case I 
am convinced that there are few houses which could not 



50 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

have a chink of air left on at the top when there are a 
few degrees of frost. 

It is necessary to utter a word of warning that only 
healthy plants be propagated from, for that well-nigh 
ineradicable pest — rust — is very prevalent. It is a deplor- 
able fact that it has largely been spread by the distribu- 
tion of the newer varieties. That is not merely my own 
experience but many friends in various parts of the country 
make the same complaint. It is well to be progressive and 
secure the latest improvements, but if with the novelties 
we get a disease destined to destroy or disfigure, not the 
novelties only but likewise their neighbours, it is not diffi- 
cult to see that we are buying trouble. 

The present conception of an ideal carnation appears to 
be one whose flower stands on a long, vigorous stem which 
has a full expansive flower, with clarity of colour, a well- 
filled centre, unbroken calyx, neatly but not unduly 
serrated edges to the petals and a sweet fragrance. Added 
to this we like the flower to be long lasting, the flowering 
period to be of considerable duration, the number of 
flowers per plant well above the average, the foliage to be 
robust, plentiful, not too stiff, and the plant itself to possess 
an immunity from disease and freedom in producing 
cuttings. 

Good varieties are : Enchantress in its blush, its rose and 
its white shades, Mrs T. W. Lawson, Mikado, Britannia, 
Robert Craig, R. F. Felton, May Day, Aurora, Jessica, 
Carola, White Perfection, Sunstar, Pink Delight, Regina 
and Lady Northcliffe. These are but a few which are 
certain to afford delight. A specialist's list would give 
dozens of names. Most leading firms would send sample 
boxes of flowers at a very small cost. I advise readers 
who are not yet converts to carnation culture to renounce 
this abstinence at once. 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 51 



Border Carnations in the Greenhouse 

Though not commonly grown for the greenhouse, I can 
certainly well recommend this plant, especially when grown 
the second year. But to flower it the second year pre- 
supposes growing it the first. As a one-year-old plant it 
will only supply three decent blooms on the one spike, 
but a two-year-old plant will supply as many spikes as 
there are growths, and with three to each it is not 
uncommon to get thirty decent blooms on a plant all 
flowering at pretty much the same time. 

This type of carnation is best propagated by layering, 
and the layering is best done in July so as to get young 
plants well forward by the winter. I will here deal only 
briefly with their culture, as many items given regarding 
perpetuals will apply also to these. 

Concise hints on layering will be found in the section 
devoted to greenhouse work, so that beyond saying that 
either one or two year old plants will do for layering we 
will add that the young plants should, early in September, 
be potted into 3-inch pots. A soil containing very little 
manure and made up largely of loam, leaf -soil and sand is 
best at this time. With cold-frame treatment the plants 
should be sufficiently rooted by the end of October to be 
transferred into their flowering pots six inches in diameter. 
Here a stronger soil becomes imperative, and the plants 
will benefit by accommodation on the shelf of a cold 
greenhouse. 

Not much growth will take place during the winter, the 
most difficult part of the attention needed being the water- 
ing, which should err rather on the spare side . In February 
the plants must be brought more under supervision. The 
open staging of a house with a night temperature of 45° 



52 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

to 50° and a buoyant circulation of air are the conditions 
demanded. Now also a bamboo cane may be set to each 
plant to which to secure the spike, which as it heightens 
should be regularly tied, and to which also to sling the 
growths which are to be used for layering or for providing 
flowers if the plant is grown a second season. 

Towards the end of March feeding will be needed, and 
this may be conducted as for perpetuals. Later, as the 
flowers evolve, more room between the plants and a slight 
shading from bright sunshine must be given, or the flowers 
will lose colour. No spike should be allowed to bear more 
than three flowers or they will be too small. As the flowers 
fade or are used for cut purposes the plants may be stood 
outside to be layered at the earliest opportunity or to be 
grown on for a second year. 

The best plants— those most robust and free from disease 
and carrying the most growths — should at this time be 
selected for growing on and after being cleaned should be 
potted up at once, using a rich soil built up on the lines 
laid down for tree carnations. A 9-inch pot such as is 
used for chrysanthemums will afford a comfortable move 
from the 6-inch size. Eventually each growth should be 
given a separate bamboo cane, thin ones, 4 feet long, 
being bought for is. gd. to 2s. per 100. But as this staking 
would limit them to being put only in places with plenty 
of head room it would be sufficient for a few months 
to sling the growths together with a strand of raffia 
grass. 

Cool treatment, liberal feeding and plentiful supplies 
of water in the later stages will result in fioriferous plants 
worthy of any greenhouse. 

The following are the varieties I have found most useful 
for inside culture : — Lady Hermione, Daffodil, King 
Arthur, Goldilocks, Cecilia, Agnes Sorrel, Cordelia, 




Border Carnation — well worth growing in the greenhouse 
for display or for cut bloom 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 53 

Myrmidon and Venus. A glance at a specialist's catalogue 
will show how numerous are the varieties. 



Malmaison Carnations 

As I have previously said, these are the best of the three 
types for affording a bold display, and if they are some- 
what ponderous in character, they compensate for this by 
the beautiful clove scent they possess. The growth may 
be built up on practically the same lines as the borders. 
They are propagated from layers, flowered in 6-inch pots 
the first year and made most of the second year, when they 
are expected to afford a handsome group in the conserva- 
tory or choice flowers for house and table decoration. 
Layering is best done from the middle to the end of June 
in a close frame duly shaded. 

About six weeks must elapse before the layers are 
sufficiently rooted to be potted up. They may be sub- 
jected to the same treatment advocated for borders as 
regards soil, etc., but are better kept a little warmer 
through the winter. As there is a large flower to build up 
it is obvious that parsimony in the matter of liquid manure 
cannot be tolerated. One flower per spike is quite as 
much as can well be accommodated, and obviously this 
means disbudding or pulling out the side buds as the 
flower spike advances. The Malmaisons flowering from 
May to July nicely bridge the time between the tree 
carnations, which begin to lose colour about May, and the 
outdoor carnations, which come on in July and August. 

Those who are greatly in love with carnations will not 
be content with growing a few only, but will keep increasing 
their stock until perforce they have to build a small house 
for them. I commend this plan to all who can afford it. 
Malmaisons have not many representative varieties, the 



54 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

best being Princess of Wales, Maggie Hodgson, Montague, 
Lady Coventry, Mercia, Duchess of Westminster and Sir 
Evelyn Wood. 



Celosias and Cockscombs 

These are not nearly so popular now as they were ten 
or twelve years ago. They are by no means unbeautiful, 
and as tastes differ greatly (and happily so) we might 
spare a few lines to show their general culture. 

Early seed-sowing (January or February) is advised 
in order that the plants may be brought along steadily. 
As soon as they can be handled, remove them singly to 
small pots, and keep them somewhat warm. The young 
cockscombs should not be again potted up until the shape 
of the comb is visible. Some of these grow after the 
manner of celosias, and are, of course, useless for the pur- 
pose. If the young plants are kept close to the glass they 
will grow sturdily. While the state of being root-bound 
cannot but be injurious, the plants must not be potted on 
too quickly, as they are very susceptible to over-watering, 
and this can scarcely be avoided if they are over-potted. 
At no time should they be allowed to flag. This path of 
progressive potting will necessitate the use of several sizes 
of pots until they reach the 7-inch, in which tall specimens 
of the Celosia pyramidalis in its various colours may be 
flowered. Cockscombs will rarely need to go beyond a 
6-inch pot. After the younger stages cool conditions 
should prevail, with the forcible use of the syringe if red- 
spider threatens, and the use of the liquid manure tank 
when the plants are found to dry quickly. Celosias make 
a pretty display in a miscellaneous group or dotted about 
along the staging, where their graceful plumes are bound 
to attract attention. They are valuable also for bedding 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 55 

out, though less seldom used now than they were a decade 
or two ago. 

The Charming Cyclamen 

This plant is indispensable to the amateur's greenhouse, 
especially as it flowers perhaps more copiously than any 
other plant of its size. It shows itself best as a flowering 
plant when grown on a second year. During the first year 
the flowers will be larger but by no means so numerous, 




Diagram 17. — Cyclamen : i. Seeds in pan an inch apart. 2. Seedlings 
pricked off. 3. Corm for growing along a second year. 4. Strong plant show- 
ing depth of potting. 5, Plants set on double staging. 

while during the second year the plant, if well grown, will 
carry from fifty to one hundred blooms at the one time, 
and even this number has often been exceeded. Cycla- 
mens are somewhat stiff and heavy when arranged alone, 
but put up in a bank interspersed with maidenhair ferns 
and similar foliage they make a lovely show. 

It will be found that most books and writers advise 
sowing the seeds in October. I find, however, that the best 
results accrue from a sowing in June. The seeds, which 
are best set an inch apart, take a considerable time to 



56 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

germinate, notwithstanding they are placed in a tempera- 
ture of 65° to 70° by night, but there is likelihood of quicker 
germination in June than in October. The idea also is 
that the growth may be built up steadily, and as they will 
not be called upon to flower for nearly eighteen months 
they should by that time make large plants, well filling 
with roots their 7-inch pots. 

When two or more leaves are formed the task of pricking 
out into other pans or boxes may be undertaken. Many 
gardeners at this time put them into tiny pots. I believe 
in the practice, but knowing the dangers and feeling sure 
that amateurs would scarcely be likely to water them 
correctly, I feel that the soundest advice I can give is that 
they be pricked into pans or boxes of nice open sandy soil 
and not be put into pots until they have a nice mat of roots 
and several leaves. 

For opening the soil I like to use brick dust as well as 
sand. Soft pieces of brick may be pounded up and passed 
through a fine wire sieve. It may be used for all the 
pottings of cyclamen as well as for many other greenhouse 
plants. 

Through the first winter young cyclamens need a warm 
house of about 60°, but when they have become established 
in their 3-inch pots they may very well be removed to 
cooler quarters. 

The cyclamen when growing well relishes a cool, moist, 
airy atmosphere, and while over-watering is as great a 
danger with them as with other plants, yet moisture on 
the leaves and about the plant is essential to good growth. 
The form of staging mentioned previously, by which the 
bottom staging, covered with shingle, can be kept moist, 
is best for cyclamen, and spraying of the foliage (especially 
the underside) should be done three or four times a day, 
or as often as the leaves become dry. 




" < 
P ts 



O 



o £2 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 57 

The various pottings will include moving them into 
3-inch, 5-inch and eventually 7-inch pots, though none 
but plants well furnished with healthy growth will merit 
their size. If they are not worthy of this they may be 
flowered in the 6-inch. A somewhat close sandy soil is 
relished, and firm potting. Fibrous loam, flaky leaf -soil, 
broken cow manure, mushroom manure, brick dust, sand 
and Clay's fertiliser will form a very good compost, which 
can be supplemented, when filled with roots, by frequent 
waterings with liquid cow manure and soot-water. 

Shading is another need of cyclamen which cannot be 
neglected. Heavy shading such as that afforded by arch- 
angel mats is not needed, but such as is given by tiffany 
or canvas. A cold frame admitting plenty of air will suit 
them well during the summer, giving them warmer con- 
ditions early in September. The flower buds may be 
pulled off until then but left to develop afterwards. 
While flowering, of course the plants will not be syringed, 
though for some time yet they will be benefited by 
damping between the pots. 

Cyclamen can be used as pot plants in rooms ; and as 
cut flowers they will last nearly a fortnight. But they 
must be pulled, not cut, from the plant, and after cutting 
off about half -an -inch of stem it should be split up for 
half-an-inch so that water can be freely drawn up 
towards the flower. On account of its value in this 
respect, and for its beautiful symmetry of foliage — often 
being richly marked with silver — the cyclamen ranks 
high as a useful greenhouse plant. 

When the corms are to be grown along a second time, 
the plants having borne their full complement of flowers 
may be kept on the dry side in a cold frame. All withered 
flowers should be pulled out, and also all leaves as they 
get of bad appearance. When young leaves are seen to be 



58 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



springing up from the corm the plants may be turned out 
of their pots, a portion of the soil taken away— such as will 
come away easily — and they may then be potted up into 
the same size pots and be grown along under precisely the 
same treatment as for young plants. 

Chrysanthemums for the Greenhouse 

As with carnations so with chrysanthemums, I would 
advise those who wish to go in strongly for them to 




DiagramiZ. — Chrysanthemums ; i. Suitable cutting. 2. Pot of cuttings set 
in a cool frame on staging. 3. First potting in 3-inch pot. 4. Potted finally in 
9-inch pot. 

purchase a special book on the subject, where greater detail 
can be given than is possible here. Here we can but get 
the outline of their culture. For the sake of clearness I 
will treat of " 'mums," as gardeners familiarly call them, 
in two ways — as large flowering plants or as decorative 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 59 

or " bush " plants. In the latter section are included the 
singles. 

As large plants are out of place in a small greenhouse, 
and presumably few of my readers possess a large con- 
servatory, I will here give priority of place to the decorative 
and single section. In order to get well-grown plants with 
abundance of bloom, propagation should be commenced 
early. For the speedy and successful rooting of cuttings 
a small portable frame will be put up in a cool greenhouse 
early in December. A moist bed of well-weathered coal 
ashes sifted through a quarter-inch sieve will form the best 
bottom, and loose sheets of glass, which may be reversed 
several times a day to disperse the moisture accumulating 
on the inner surface, the best covering. I strongly advise 
a good soil in which to strike the cuttings as making 
success more certain. Many failures may be traced to the 
use of old potting bench soil which probably has rank 
manure, chemical manure, or too much humus in it. 
Loam sifted through a quarter-inch sieve, mixed with an 
equal quantity of leaf -soil similarly treated and half the 
amount of clean silver sand, will form a splendid compost. 

As far as possible a careful selection of cuttings should 
be made, avoiding all which come from the stem of the 
plant, all which have buds on them, all which are mal- 
formed and such as are thin and drawn or far too fat and 
sappy. Such as spring from the base of the plant beneath 
the soil — suckers, in fact — these are the kind of cuttings 
to choose. 

The two chief reasons for failure to root them are that 
many do not get the base of the cutting to rest firmly on 
the bottom of the hole made by the dibber, or do not make 
the soil firm about the cutting. When inserted firmly 
at the rate of five or six in a 3-inch pot they will need a 
good watering, and after the surplus water has been 



6o THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

drained off can be put closely together in the pro- 
pagator. 

It can scarcely be hoped that the cuttings will root until 
four to eight weeks have elapsed, but when this delightful 
event takes place the close conditions of the propagator 
may be relaxed by setting these pots either in another 
propagator or at the far end, where they will receive more 
air and may in a few days be inured to more open conditions 
so as to be able to be put on the greenhouse shelf. 

The First Potting of Chrysanthemums 

The soil advised for cuttings will do well for the first 
potting if to it be added some sifted horse manure which 
has been used for mushroom growing, and just the 
slightest sprinkling of Clay's. I like to put the rooted 
cuttings into 2|-inch pots known as thumbs. They 
will quickly fill these with roots and are not so liable to 
suffer from over-watering as when they are moved to 
3-inch pots. At this stage their needs may best be 
catered for by keeping them close to the glass but not 
subjected to chilling winds, by syringing them frequently 
and by shading only when the leaves cannot be kept erect 
by syringing. Whatever shading is used should be dis- 
carded as soon as possible. 

By assiduous attention to these matters they will soon 
be found to root through this compost so as to qualify 
themselves for a 4-inch pot, and eventually on to a 6-inch 
or a 7-inch, and lastly to a 9-inch pot, which should be large 
enough for any chrysanthemum. In each of these succes- 
sive pottings the soil should be made stronger, meaning 
that loam should predominate over any other material and 
that the amount of animal and chemical manures should 
be increased . The following formula is what I generally use 




A VERY EFFECTIVE ARRANGEMENT OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS, 
SHOWING VARIOUS TYPES 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 6i 

myself for the final potting : — Loam, twenty parts ; leaf- 
soil (through a three-quarter inch sieve) seven ; well- 
rotten manure chopped up, six ; lime rubble or sharp road 
grit, four parts, and to each barrowful of this mixture a 
5-inch potful of bone meal and of Clay's. Over the whole 
heap soot may be freely scattered and the mass then well 
turned over five or six times. A barrowful of soil will 
usually be sufficient to pot twelve to sixteen plants from 
6-inch to g-inch pots. I do not believe in putting a lot 
of chemicals into the soil, for it is so easy to add them 
afterwards and to feed with liquid manure. 

Other Items of Culture 

Though chrysanthemums are perfectly hardy in a 
natural state, the raising of them in glass structures renders 
them susceptible to extreme cold, so that it is far better 
not to subject them to frost, but when they are somewhat 
settled in the 4-inch pots they will bear cold-frame 
treatment, the lights being withdrawn on all fine sunny 
days. It will not be safe to set them outside until the end 
of May, at which time they should be ready for their final 
pots. I would advise syringing the plants right through 
their career until they are brought inside in October. 
Weak soot-water for' this purpose will help to keep down 
rust and greenfly. 

Pinching the Growths 

Some notable growers work their decorative plants along 
without stopping them at all, and as they obtain excellent 
results by this means my readers may feel no hesitation in 
following their example if they feel that they do not quite 
understand the pinching process. I will try, however, to 
make it quite clear. When the plants are six inches high 



62 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

nip out the point — say about an inch. Three or more 
growths will push up, and when these are about six inches 
long they also may be pinched. It is possible by early 
propagation to pinch the plants three times in the season, 
but in no case should pinching be done after the end of 
June for the main batch and the beginning for late plants. 
If they are pinched later it will depend greatly on the 
season whether they flower at all, and the general 
experience is that they will not. 

Feeding the Plants 

If a good open compost has been provided there need 
be no hesitation in using liquid cow manure rather freely. 
The plan I advise is to water for two or three days with 
liquid manure and for an equal time with clear water. 
If these be used on alternate days it will probably happen 
that a plant will not be sufhciently dry to receive manure- 
water, and being watered with clear water the next day 
will, on the following day, for the same reason, lose the 
advantage of the stimulant. Alternate watering does not 
at all equalise the benefits of feeding. A dusting of Clay's 
or of Peruvian guano once a fortnight or three weeks 
may be given in addition to the liquid manure. A top- 
dressing of loam, spent horse manure, and chemical manure 
may be applied if space for it has been left at the time of 
potting. Besides feeding the plants it will keep the roots 
on the surface free from the burning influence of the sun. 
Feeding of any kind should not be commenced until by 
drying out quickly the plants show that their roots have 
taken a good hold of the compost. 

Early after potting the work of staking will engage 
attention . One good stake will usually be found sufficient 
for each plant, and further protection from wind may be 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 63 

given by driving strong stakes in the ground at distances 
of twelve feet apart, connecting them with wire, and 
attaching the stake of each plant to this. 

In October the housing of decorative " 'mums " must be 
attended to, allowing as much space as can be spared 
between the plants, or mildew and loss of leaves will result. 
It is usually, however, impossible to guard against a certain 
amount of overcrowding at this time of the year. The 
grower will now have to decide whether he prefers the 
bloom to come singly on a stem or in sprays. In the former 
case pinching out all but the central bud will have the 
desired effect, or they may be reduced to three. Another 
good plan is to pinch out only the central bud and to allow 
the other flowers on the spray to develop. 

The following will be found very useful varieties. 
Decoratives : Moneymaker, Source d'Or, A. J. Balfour, 
Madame R. Oberthur, Kathleen Thompson, Mrs J. Thomp- 
son, H. W. Thorpe, W. H. Lincoln, Victoria, Market Red, 
Lizzie Adcock. Singles : Metta, Roupel Beauty, Mensa 
Sylvia Slade, Mary Richardson, F. W. Smith, Edith 
Pagram. 

Varieties soon wear out, but these are as good as any at 
the present time and seem likely to hold a high place for 
a few years. 

Large Flowering Chrysanthemums 

Having dealt at some length on the culture of decorative 
chrysanthemums, I need now only point out wherein their 
culture differs from those we now intend discussing. 
Briefly, the points of difference are in the number of growths 
allowed, the time of propagation and the pinching and 
disbudding. Moreover, it is usual to pay greater attention 
to these varieties and to give them first-class high culture. 
Early in December is the best time for propagation, though 



64 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

if good cuttings are available after the middle of November 
they should by all means be used. 

Amateurs who do not see clearly through the problem 
of pinching and timing, and who do not wish to exhibit 
may follow the plan of lettingall the plants break naturally. 
Those which have not shown signs of breaking by the end 
of May can be pinched. Then the first crown bud may be 
secured, or, if this appears before the end of July, it may 
be taken out and the growth run on to the next bud. 
Timing is only really needed for exhibitors. 

Manipulating the Buds 

I cannot do better in elucidating this matter than quote 
a few lines which I wrote on another occasion. " Presum- 
ing that a normal cutting has been put in and has rooted 
it will in due course, if not pinched produce a bud, which 
is known as the ' break bud.' This will not develop into 
a fiov/er but a cluster of growths will surround it. Three 
or four of these are usually left and after they have grown 
for a time each forms at its tip another bud known as the 
first crown bud. This may be retained or pinched out. 
For the purpose of illustration we may suppose it has been 
pinched out. Several young growths will then push out 
and on each stem the best is retained and the others rubbed 
off. After a little while another bud will appear which is 
known as the second crown bud . This is the bud generally 
selected for the flower, but if this were rubbed out the next 
formed bud would be surrounded by the buds instead of 
growths and would be called the terminal, denoting that 
the plant has finished its growth. The terminal bud is 
seldom selected for large flowering plants the second 
crown being the favourite, as it usually gives a better 
colour and opens more freely. In many cases the first 




A CREDITABLE BLOOM OF THE LARGE-FLOWERING TYPE OF CHRYSAN- 
THEMUM, WHICH IS STILL LARGELY GROWN DESPITE THE PROPHECY 
THAT IT WILL LOSE ITS POPULARITY 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 65 

crown must be grown on as the second would be too 
late." 

Varieties differ greatly in respect to bud formation and 
each one must be regulated according to the experience 
gained of it by oneself or by others. These differences 
account for the confused ideas of buds, and envelop the 
whole process in a cloud of mystery. 

The Value of Data 

It may happen that a certain variety does well on the 
second crown bud, but if allowed to break naturally the 
flower from that bud would be insufficiently developed for 
the time of the show at which it is intended to exhibit. 
This brings about the necessity of stopping the young plant 
earlier and thus bringing about the appearance of the bud 
and its full development at approximate dates. For future 
guidance it is well to keep an accurate account of when the 
cuttings were inserted, when they received their various 
pottings, when they were stopped, when the various buds 
appeared, the date on which the chosen one was taken and 
the time of its full development. Added to these, it would 
be alike instructive and interesting to note the formulae 
for the various composts, the times of feeding the plants, 
and the kinds of liquid and dry fertilisers used, together 
with the time of housing and the heights of the plants at 
specified times. If all these notes are taken they will not 
only compel an interest in the work and stimulate observa- 
tion, but also would provide data for the next year which 
could be put to practical account. 

Number of Blooms per Plant 

If extra large blooms are to be grown no more than three 
should be allowed on each plant. Some of the leading 



66 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

exhibitors allow but two blooms to each plant. If more 
than three blooms are allowed they cannot reasonably 
be expected to be so fine. When, however, exhibition is 
not the object in view some good plants may be grown 
bearing six or eight blooms by pinching them twice during 
the season. Quite large blooms may be obtained by this 
system. Another method of growing some useful plants 
is to strike cuttings during March and April and grow the 
plant along so as to get one bloom in a 6-inch or 7-inch 
pot. Exhibition -sized blooms may be obtained by this 
method, which also gives us useful dwarf plants for a 
small conservatory. 

As the large flowering plants form their buds earlier 
than the others, so should they be housed earlier or the 
rain will spoil the buds. Towards the end of September 
is in most cases the correct time. 

Sound varieties are : Lady Talbot, F. S. Vallis, Reginald 
Vallis, Mrs Gilbert Drabble, Francis Jolliffe, Master James, 
Bob Pulling, Walter Jinks, Master David, Mrs R. C. 
Pulling, Queen Mary, Mrs A. T. Miller. 

The Stately Cineraria 

I believe the cineraria is generally to be found in the 
amateur's greenhouse, even though it has sometimes not so 
good a name as it deserves. It is spoken of as a dirty plant 
because it is often troubled with attacks of green and 
white fly. But this is one of the easiest of pests in the 
greenhouse to deal with, as it succumbs alike to fumiga- 
tion or to spraying with practically any of the advertised 
insecticides. Certainly when well grown it is a handsome 
plant, especially the stellata type, which often stands 
quite threefeet high, and is alike useful for vases, bouquets, 
sprays, or as ornamental room plants. A packet of 




Cineraria stellata, showing its stately habit and pretty 

FLOWERS 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 67 

mixed seeds from a good source will give many forms and 
shades of colour. 

If two sowings are made, say about the middle of April 
and again a month later, we have thus two strings to our 
bow and a succession of plants can be obtained. Both 
the stellata and the large flowering type may be treated in 
a similar manner. As the cineraria is essentially a cool 
house plant it should never be subjected to a high tempera- 
1 







Diagram ig. — Cineraria : i. Seeds sown in pan. 2. Pricked off. 
3. Young plant for first potting. 4. Frame for pan and later for potted 
plants. 

ture. Even the seeds are best germinated in a cool house. 
They usually come up quickly and well, and should be 
pricked off into pans or boxes and a few days later be put 
into a cold frame where they can be shaded. A cool, 
shady spot with a moist atmosphere are the conditions 
relished. From the pan the seedlings will be transferred, 
when they show a tendency to crowd, to small pots, 
3-inch, thence to 5-inch, and eventually to their flowering 
size, 7-inch pots. Those who have had some experience 
in growing these plants will know that there is a tendency 



68 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

for them to damp off when in the small pots. The chief 
causes of this are that a sweet soil has not been used, that 
over-watering has been done or that the atmosphere has 
been overcharged with moisture by failure to admit plenty 
of air. Not much water is needed in the young stage, it 
being less productive of evil to allow the plants to wilt 
than to become too wet. A rich soil is not needed. Loam, 
leaf-soil, mushroom manure, sand and Clay's will grow 
good cinerarias if they are sufficiently fed in the later 
stages of growth. 

The prominent needs of the cineraria are cool treatment, 
partial shade, frequent syringing, occasional fumigation, 
abundant ventilation, great care in watering, a mild 
stimulant by way of liquid manure and sometimes a stake 
to stiffen the stems of the stellata type. As autumn ad- 
vances the plants will need to be brought to the greenhouse, 
where shading should only be given when a spell of bright 
sunshine causes the leaves to droop. This they will likely 
do also in the spring. Instead of putting on a heavy shad- 
ing it will sometimes bring the leaves erect if they are 
lightly sprayed over with clear water. No greenhouse 
can afford to be without the cineraria. 

Cytisus and Coronilla 

Being so closely allied and having so much in common 
from a cultural standpoint, these tMO plants may well be 
treated together. Both are highly ornamental, but 
popular opinion favours the cytisus, and with this public 
expression of good taste I am in entire accord. Nicely 
grown plants can very easily be bought from the London 
shops. For the refinement of its foliage, the profusion 
of its flowers, and, above all, for the deliciousness of its 
fragrance, the cytisus deserves extended culture. This 



\ 




o 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 69 

plant has, until recent years, been known as a genista, but 
botanical authorities assure us that cytisus is more correct. 

Except for there being sometimes a difficulty in propaga- 
tion by cuttings, the cytisus cannot be said to be a fastidi- 
ous subject, and is nearly hardy. Cuttings may be inserted 
in the usual way in spring and should be carefully attended 
to in the matter of water until roots are emitted, when the 
young plantlets may be potted singly into 2-inch pots, 
to be eventually transferred into larger ones. The cytisus 
may be grown as a standard, a pyramid or a bush. The 
bush is the general and most convenient form, while the 
pyramid is now rarely found. 

A light position in a cool house will suit the young plants 
well, for they resent heat. A few pinchings will make them 
shapely bushes and feeding well with liquid manure will 
make them florif erous plants. After flowering, the growth 
should be cut back into shape and the plants stood outside 
till the autumn. Frequent potting for established plants 
is not needed ; an overhauling every second or third year 
will suffice. Each year work on a few young plants and 
destroy a few old ones. In this policy lies progress. 

The coronilla is more easily stnick from cuttings, and, 
moreover, is of a hard constitution. It is a negligent man's 
plant, for I have known it give quite reasonable results 
when left unpotted and unsupplied with stimulants for 
over five years. 

Neither cytisus nor coronilla are fastidious as to soil, 
and might well be given any general soil which happens to 
be on the bench. Cytisus racemosus and Coronilla glauca 
are the species grown in the greenhouse. 

CoLEUS Thyrsoideus 
Though it has not the ornamental leaves of the well- 
known coleus, this plant is well worth growing for the 



70 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

beauty of its blue flowers, which may be had in autumn 
or in spring. At one time I harboured misgivings as to 
whether the plant was worth cultivation, but having grown 
it along in large pots it gave such a fine display for quite 
a long time in the conservatory that I make it now a point 
of honour to mention it with commendation. 

There is sometimes found a difficulty in rooting the 
cuttings in a propagator. Now the ornamental-leaved 
coleus resents confinement in a propagator, and it is reason- 
able to suppose that C. thyrsoideus would also. My 
method of striking is to put three cuttings in a 3-inch pot 
during May and to let them root on the open staging in a 
house having a night temperature of 60° to 65°. They 
will not take long to root. I advise growing all three along 
together without separation, and with only once pinching 
the growths. After they are rooted cooler treatment may 
be meted out to them, and this may be continued through- 
out their career. In the winter cold air should not be 
allowed to blow directly on to them, but they only require 
a cool temperature, such as about 45°. From a 3-inch to a 
6-inch and from thence to an 8-inch pot will be the pro- 
gress of potting. This coleus will bear liberal feeding in the 
same way as the ornamental one. The spikes are useful 
for cutting, though the sticky character of the leaves is 
not a commendation. 

The Fragrant Freesia 

Although most professional gardeners grow freesias in 
quantity I do not think amateurs regard it with the favour 
they should . This can only be through want of knowledge, 
and this defect in their gardening knowledge they should 
hasten to repair. 

If the bulbs are carefully dried off and if the foliage is 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 71 

not cut as well as the flowers, the bulbs may be used year 
after year, besides having the stock increased by means of 
the little offsets. 

The great attribute of the f reesia is its delicious fragrance, 
but it lasts well as a cut flower, is useful for making sprays 
and buttonholes, as well as for church and table decoration. 




^^^ 









^-.tei^iftf — 1 - - - I- ■ 



ii--:fe-^i£4^Tl^=ii: %:k 




Diagram 20. — Freesia : i. Corm which will flower. 2. Small corm to be 
boxed up thickly as at Fig. 3. 4 and 5. Wrong methods of potting. 6. Correct 
method. 7. Frame for pots covered with mat until blades appear. 8. Shelf for 
drying off. 

The usual number of bells per spike is eight under good 
culture, but excellent culture will make ten on a stem 
frequent, while I have had twelve on one stem, not counting 
the side growths, and as many as thirty-three from one 
bulb. 

If flowers are wanted for Christmas, the bulbs must be 
started not later than the beginning of July. Eight bulbs 
will be quite sufficient for a 6-inch pot, and they must 



72 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

only have the tips just covered. Three parts loam, two 
parts leaf -soil, one part mushroom manure, sharp sand and 
Peruvian guano make up the compost which I have found 
will grow excellent freesias. I do not believe in plunging 
the pots, but instead of this I would put them in a cold 
frame and cover this with a thick mat until the blades 
appear above the surface. Until this time no watering 
beyond what was given immediately after potting will be 
needed. 

When the growths are four to six inches high, they may 
be supported with stakes, four or five being put round the 
pot. A method which I have found successful is to place 
five sticks equidistantly round the side of the pot and to 
lace the matting around and between them so as to form 
a starlike appearance, each stick being at a point of the 
star. It is very simply done in this way. A sufhciently 
long, strong and twisted piece of matting is got ready. 
One end is held in the left hand while with the right it is 
laced round. The matting is passed round the outside of 
two stakes, the third is missed, and the matting passed 
from the secojid to fourth, round the outside of the fourth 
and fifth, missing the first, over the second and third, and 
so on, each time going round the outside of two and 
missing one until the point of commencement is reached, 
when a neat reef-knot completes the operation. The tying 
material should be sufficiently tight to have a slight pull 
on the sticks. When this is done it is a simple matter to 
adjust the growths in the separate compartments formed. 
As the plants grow the arrangement of matting can be 
moved up higher. Growths from a privet hedge, stripped 
and dried, make useful stakes for the purpose. If they 
must be used green it will be advisable to peel off the bark 
from that portion which enters the soil. 

When the spikes seem likely to show, a few of the plants 




The Freesia — an indispensable plant to those who value 
fragrance 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 73 

may be hastened into flower by putting them in a warm 
house. A succession may be kept up from December till 
April by potting up a few pots each fortnight from the 
beginning of July onwards. Unfortunately it is rather 
difficult to keep freesia flowers in the spring, when the bees 
get about, as the flowers soon wither after being visited 
by these busy creatures. After the flowers are cut the 
plants require to be gradually dried off , not by giving mere 
driblets at a time but by watering less frequently. For 
drying off and for keeping them until they are potted up 
in the summer, a hot, dry shelf in a cool house is the most 
suitable place. 

Freesias may also be raised from seeds and can often, 
though not invariably, be got to flower in about six months, 
but a truer stock and a more certain success is assured by 
growing from bulbs. 

The Free-flowering Fuchsia 

This plant is known and loved by all, being commonly 
found in cottage windows and cottage gardens. There 
are some splendid forms and varieties, and when well cared 
for the fuchsia will flower for a great length of time, besides 
being practically hardy. They have the merit also of 
being easily trained in any shape, and of being grown on 
from year to year. 

Cuttings may be rooted in autumn or spring, but unless 
standard plants are desired I would advise spring propaga- 
tion. Nice plants may be obtained in the one year from 
these. The cuttings are easily rooted in a warm propagator 
in the spring or in a cold frame in the autumn. If only 
bush plants are required the plants may be pinched when 
they are about six inches high and again when the resulting 
growths are the same length. Except for large plants, a 



74 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



6-inch pot will be quite large enough for flowering ; in fact, 
nice first-year plants may be flowered in 5-inch pots. 

A point in their culture worth noting is that when the 
plants are pinched the point of every growth should be 
nipped out at the same time. Inattention to this rule 
will result in unshapely and unevenly flowering plants. 

Standard plants are particularly pleasing, and if the 
cuttings of young growths are rooted in the early autumn 




Diagram 21. — Fuchsia : i and 2. Cuttings with old wood attached (a method 
seldom needed). 3. Cutting of young wood only. 4. Plant rooted, potted and 
pinched. 5. Last years' plant pruned back for starting afresh. 6. Fuchsias dry- 
ing off beneath staging. 

and grown along in a warm house during the winter and 
early spring the standard with a clear three-feet stem can 
be produced within the year. The leading growth should 
be encouraged to extend until it is three and a half to four 
feet high, when it may be topped to induce it to form a 
head. Meanwhile all side growth must be pinched out, 
the main stem duly supported, and the plant steadily 
potted along until it reaches a 6-inch or, in exceptionally 
favoured cases, a 7-inch pot. Pyramid plants are seldom 




Fuchsia Phenomenal — a fine variety which has stood the 

TEST OF time 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 75 

produced now, and I doubt if any of my readers could 
find space for them. 

During the winter-time fuchsias may be stored away on 
a shelf, beneath the greenhouse staging, or in any shed 
or room from which frost can be kept, though really a few 
degrees will not seriously harm them. This, of course, 
means that the plants should be dried off in the autumn 
and stored away, either with or without their pots. In 
February these pots may be brought out of store and started 
in a warm house. As soon as the young growths appear 
the shoots may be cut back to within a few inches of their 
base, and may then be shaken out from the old soil and put 
into other pots. Any good potting soil will do, as fuchsias 
are not fastidious subjects. I would recommend the follow- 
ing varieties : — Fulgens, Phenomenal, Mrs Hill, Ballet 
Girl, Rose of Castile, Charming, Countess of Aberdeen and 
a very pretty little plant of the fulgens type known as 
Little Mary. 

The Glorious Gloxinia 

This is one of the finest plants that could be grown in 
a warm house for flowering during the summer months. 
It is a special favourite of mine and will, I hope, occupy 
the same position in the affections of my readers. It is 
remarkably free flowering, has great brilliancy and a wide 
range of colour, responds readily to good treatment, is 
remarkably effective as a pot plant and the flowers will last 
for a considerable time in water. It is easily grown from 
seeds, from leaves, or from old corms, all of which courses 
are advised. 

My conception of an ideal gloxinia flower may not 
accord with the rigid rules of the old florists, but will, 
I venture to think, merit repetition. The flower should 



76 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

be large, with a clear, open throat and preferably with six 
segments in the flower, which I will perhaps unscientific- 
ally call petals. These petals should curve over, but not so 
much as to suggest wilting, and they should certainly 
not stand up almost erect from the flower as in some 




Diagram I'i. — Gloxinia: i. Leaf cutting of gloxinia. 2. The leaf cut slant- 
ing (some think it roots more quickly this way). 3. Leaves inserted in upright 
position in box. 4. Box placed over hot-water pipes, 5. Leaf cutting rooted. 
6. Old corm restarted. 7. Same potted up. 

varieties. Where the number of petals exceeds seven the 
flower is usually badly formed. Personally, I like to see 
the petals fringed, though this probably would be a defect 
from the florist's standpoint. The distribution of colour 
should be even on all the petals and far down into the bell. 
The flower itself should stand erect on a strong stem and 
the number of flowers should not be so great as to cause 
many to be badly shaped through lack of space to develop 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS ^^ 

in. Strong dark succulent foliage, with, a tendency to in- 
curve rather than recurve, seems to set off the flowers best 
and renders moving of the plants easier. Wide, flat flabby 
leaves do not add to the refinement of the plant. 



Methods of Propagation 

As mentioned, they are three in number, and I advise 
them all as part of a progressive policy. Seeds should be 
procured from a nurseryman who is known to have a good 
strain . When the seedlings flower let the best be marked so 
that the corms may, after drying off, be grown for a second 
and again for a third year. From any of these selected, 
take leaf cuttings and so perpetuate the best kinds. By 
sowing a few seeds each year the vigour of the stock is 
kept up and oft-times more beautiful forms are introduced. 

The earlier the seeds are sown in the new year the 
better, and I think the method of sowing begonia seeds 
might well be imitated here. As soon as it is possible to 
handle them a pan should be prepared for pricking them 
off about an inch apart. Later they may be removed to 
a box with the space between them increased to three 
inches, and from there to 3-inch and then to 5-inch pots, 
which will be a sufficient size for the first year's flowering. 

The leaves used for propagation may be from the young 
or the old plants, but it is preferable that they be large, fully 
matured leaves. If they are cut clean with about half-an- 
inch of foot-stalk and inserted upright in a box of sandy 
soil placed in a warm house, they will root within a few 
weeks, but it will be some little time before the young 
growths spring up. These might safely be left in the box 
during the first year and under careful treatment will 
make corms as large around as a half-crown. After being 
dried off they will rest for a time, and when starting in the 



78 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

spring may be potted into small pots and thence trans- 
ferred to 6-inch pots, where they will make a splendid 
show. 

The first batch of old corms will be started in December 
by shaking them free from the old soil and starting them in 
boxes of leaf -soil. With a nice network of roots in active 
growth they will justify transference to just the size of pot 
that will comfortably contain them without crushing the 
roots. When well rooted into these, and before the leaves 
become so expansive as to render potting difficult, they 
may be moved to the flowering pots, usually six but some- 
times seven inches in diameter. For the final potting I 
have found good results accrue from a compost made up of 
fibrous yellow loam, peat, sand, leaf -soil and cow manure. 
The loam should be broken up, the peat be freed from dust, 
the leaf-soil sifted through a half-inch sieve and the cow 
manure broken up after being dried. 

Small sticks may be needed to keep some of the flowers 
erect. Gloxinias relish a moist amosphere such as can 
best be given when grown on a double staging similar to 
that which I have previously described. They are best 
kept in a temperature of 65° until they flower, when a 
few degrees lower will not harm them. After the flowers 
are faded the bulbs will be gradually dried off in the usual 
manner. Heavy shading is not necessary, but exposure to 
full sunshine will certainly harm them whether in flower 
or in growth. A succession of flowers of these beautiful 
plants can be kept up for many weeks. 

HippEASTRUMS (Amaryllis) 

In correct circles this delightful bulbous plant is always 
referred to as hippeastrum. But by being correct there 
is often a danger of being obscure, so in seeking safety it is 




Pi 5 
> -1 
q ■< 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 79 

well to give both popular and precise names. With us 
at any rate it is not so much the name as the needs of the 
plant which really matters. 

It is too much to say that the amaryllis is a necessity 
for the small greenhouse, but certainly it is a plant which 
when well grown gives a remarkably brilliant display. 
Though the method of culture is from seeds or from offsets 
I would strongly recommend the purchase of bulbs from 
a firm which specialises in them, such as Messrs Ker of 
Liverpool. If, however, the pleasures of propagation are 
proposed, I would advise sowing the seeds in pans in heat 
and pricking them off in other pans or boxes . In due course 
they may be potted into small pots, using for the first year 
soil containing no manure. No drying off should take 
place during the first season. Offsets or small bulbs 
formed beside the old bulb should not be detached and 
treated as separate plants until they have a few roots of 
their own to support them in their separate existence. 
Except that several may be grown together in the same 
pot and that not so strong a soil should be used, they may 
follow on the lines of treatment advised for matured 
bulbs. 

A Policy with Amaryllises 

Personally, I do not believe in shaking out all the plants 
each year. Once in two years is sufficiently often. If 
the collection be divided into two parts one may be shaken 
out and repotted and the other top-dressed or moved into 
larger pots. Plants in small pots could be moved into 
larger ones, while those already in large pots could be top- 
dressed with good soil. 



8o THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Starting the Bulbs 

For the class of reader for which this book is mainly 
intended the beginning of the year will be sufficiently 
early to start the plants. The plants should have their 
old ball of soil well soaked by immersion for an hour in 
water. After draining for a day or two the soil will be 
in a fit state to handle and may then be shaken from the 
roots of such as are to be broken up. It is essential that 
in moving into pots which are large enough just to accom- 
modate comfortably the roots the latter are not hudd]ed 
together. This may be prevented by shaking plenty of 
small soil between them. Firmness of soil is essential 
and the soil should be brought up just to cover 
the bulb at a point immediately above its largest 
circumference. 

At first no watering beyond the first one immediately 
after potting will be needed, but the syringe must be 
frequently used. A temperature of 50° to 55° is a good 
starting heat. The preservation of perfect hardness in 
the bulb is a certain sign of correct treatment in the matter 
of water. When it may be safely supposed that the soil 
is well furnished with roots (and this may be known by 
the rapidity with which it dries) manure water may be 
given to build up a good flower and good growths for the 
following season. 

About August the growth will be completed, and from 
then may the process of drying off be undertaken. When 
this is completed a shelf in the greenhouse will serve for 
storing. In many cases a stake will be needed to stiffen 
the spike, which in good culture should bear four large 
flowers. In fact, extra good culture will induce two 
spikes to form, each bearing four flowers. 




a P. 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 8i 



The Soil — an Important Factor 

Its composition may consist of good fibrous loam, 
leaf-soil, mushroom manure, charcoal, and sharp sand or 
mortar rubble, with a sprinkling of Peruvian guano. 
The other important factors in the successful culture of 
this brilliant bulb are firm potting, frequent syringing, 
careful watering and correct drying off. Altogether it 
may be advanced as an easy subject to grow. 

Hydrangea Hortensis 

This is largely grown as a tub plant to be set outside 
during the summer, but it may also be used to advantage 
as a pot plant, especially during the first year, when it is 
grown to produce one large head of bloom in a 6-inch pot. 
After the flower is off, the plant may, of course, be grown 
along to produce several heads per plant and may eventu- 
ally merit the dignity of a tub. 

Cuttings are best taken in August or early September, 
choosing well-ripened growths which have not flowered, 
and putting them singly into small pots in a cool green- 
house. During the winter the leaves will probably fall 
off, but there need be no apprehension of failure on this 
score, provided the wood and the bud at the top are sound. 
In the spring growth will commence and the young plants 
may be shifted along until they reach a 5-inch or 6-inch pot, 
in which they may flower in May or June. After flowering 
the plants may be stood outside until the advent of frost. 
These plants will bear a considerable amount of neglect 
without greatly showing it, but respond readily to a good 
rich soil and high feeding. To render the flowers of a 
blue colour, " Cyanol " is advised. It can be obtained 



82 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

from Messrs Wood & Sons of Wood Green, and should be 
used according to directions. 



Popular Orchids 

Here again we are confronted with the problem of 
pressing a volume into a chapter. Few greenhouse owners 
who read this book will make a speciality of orchids, and 
if they do it is pretty certain that their desire for detailed 
knowledge will take them far beyond the limits of this book. 
I propose to surmount the difficulty by dealing with the 
six most popular orchids, and if readers master the cultural 
directions in regard to them I do not fear that they will 
cause the early demise of any more valuable species which 
comes into their possession . The six most popular orchids 
are: Calanthe Veitchii, Cattleyalabiata, Coelogynecristata, 
Dendrobium Nobile, Cypripedium insigne, and Odonto- 
glossum crispum. These can be grown to a fair stage 
of perfection by any amateur who can command the 
necessary heat. 

Calanthe Veitchii 

This orchid is a great favourite of mine, and although 
I have never yet had the opportunity of growing it in a 
separate house so as to give it exclusive treatment, I have 
been able to get graceful spikes over three feet long, two 
feet of which were furnished with flowers, and some of them 
bearing over forty flowers. I am well aware that this has 
been exceeded, but if my readers can manage to secure 
equal results by following these directions I feel sure they 
will be grateful to me for introducing them to this beautiful 
orchid. 

Nor is the culture at all difficult, as will be seen from the 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 83 

following remarks. It is usual to start the bulbs into 
growth in March. They will be in the pots of last season 
and will in many cases be seen to throw out young growths 
from the base. These are the growths of which we must 
take care, for they will furnish us with the flower. The 
soil may be removed and all the roots cut off to within an 
inch of the base of the bulb. These ends will be left to 
give anchorage to the bulbs when they are potted. If 
infested with scale during the previous year it would now 
be a splendid opportunity for washing them well, and I 
know of no more effective wash than that made with X.L. 
All insecticide. Until the growths are about an inch in 
length it is best to lay the bulbs on the staging and 
syringe them frequently. This will cause the emission of 
new roots as well as of growth. 

We now arrive at what I think the greatest factor in 
the culture of calanthes — the soil. The following is the 
formula I always use : — i bushel of fibrous peat, 2 bushels 
of fibrous yellow loam, hand picked, i bushel of oak-leaf 
soil, one lo-inch pot of charcoal, and the same quantity 
of brick chips, of sand, of cow manure and of sphagnum 
moss. The leaves are prepared in the following manner : — 
Good oak leaves are procured in the autumn, put into a 
bag and put on the boiler or over the hot-water pipes. 
In course of time they become dry and brittle and it is 
then possible to rub them through a quarter-inch sieve. 
It will be well to damp this leaf -soil before using it. The 
brick chips are prepared by breaking soft bricks so as to 
pass through a quarter-inch sieve, and then discarding the 
dusty portion by the use of a very fine sieve. Cow manure 
should be dried, preferably by the sun, and broken so as to 
pass the quarter-inch sieve. The sphagnum moss should 
also be chopped up. When all these have been prepared 
they should be thoroughly mixed and put in a warm house 



84 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

for a few days to become warm. This amount of soil will 
be sufficient to pot about one hundred and twenty bulbs 
separately into 5-inch pots. 

Only clean pots and clean crocks can be tolerated, and 
the latter should fill the former by about one-third. It 
will then be necessary to grade the bulbs. Very large ones 
may merit a 6-inch pot, the next size a 5-inch, while the 
smaller ones may be set in a 6-inch pot, three or four in 
each, according to size. 

In potting, the soil should not be mounded up over the 
rim as is done with such orchids as cattleyas, dendrobiums, 
etc. The bulbs should be so placed that the base is only 
just covered and the soil may be firmed with a stick. 
In doing this it is quite possible to injure seriously the roots 
and thereby cause the young growths to become black. 
This, of course, must be guarded against. Orchids cannot 
be potted quickly, but they can and should be potted well. 
When all the bulbs are potted, set them pot thick on the 
double staging which I recommend for so many other 
subjects. I do not advise watering for quite a week, but 
syringing should be done for some time until the leaves 
begin to break away from the growths. It is best to 
give water only when it is quite sure that it is needed. 
This question of correct watering is difficult to explain, but 
if the bulb is kept quite firm and the young growths fairly 
stiff there need be no fear of starvation. 

From now onwards the culture is all plain sailing. 
Whether, when two growths show from a bulb, both are 
to be left or the weaker one pulled out, is a matter for the 
grower to decide. Personally I prefer one monster growth 
to two smaller ones, but if it is desired to increase the stock 
then two must remain . 

Three times every day the lower staging should be 
damped ; the temperature must not fall below 60° ; the 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 85 

plants must be shaded from bright sunshine ; and as they 
grow they must be spread out so as to be free from over- 
crowding. Not until the growths show a sign of bulbing 
should manure-water be given, and then it may be applied 
with frequency. By this time also the roots will be 
seen all over the surface and this suggests the need for top- 
dressing, which may be done with soil similar to that in 
which they were potted. 

By the middle of August the plants will have made their 
growths and the flower spikes will begin to appear. At 
about the same time the leaves will commence to yellow 
preparatory to dying off. This is a sign for less water, so 
that by the time the colour is seen in the flower all watering 
will have been stopped . The plants may then be put more 
closely together, or even, if necessity demand it, be put 
on a shelf. After the flowers are cut the pots and bulbs 
may be set on their side beneath the staging until the time 
arrives for restarting them. 

Cypripedium Insigne 

This is known as a terrestrial orchid, growing in its native 
habitat on the ground, as distinct from epiphytal orchids, 
which grow on trees. 

Any good orchid establishment will supply the reader 
with some of these cypripediums, insigne being the most 
common and least expensive. There is a wide range of 
choice in colour and form, and although they are not so 
showy as cattleyas, they flower freely and are very attrac- 
tive . If they are kept in good growth they can be increased 
by division so that a good stock can soon be obtained. 

The soil should for the most part be fibrous peat and 
loam, with chopped sphagnum moss, some charcoal and 
some cow manure. With this mixture it is scarcely 



86 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

possible to pot too firmly. Cypripediums do not need re- 
potting every year. Once in two years will be quite suffi- 
cient, or better still, do half each year. It is very easy to 
jumble the roots up together, which should, of course, be 
avoided, the soil being shaken and worked in between the 
roots and made firm with a blunt stick. 

When well established, feeding with liquid manure is 
advised but not to such an extent as in the case of 
calanthes. If large plants are required they may be 
potted on until they reach the lo-inch size, in which they 
should provide a multitude of blooms. These will need 
to be staked out with the tips of bamboo canes or with 
lengths of stiff wire. 

A temperature of 55° to 60° will suit them throughout 
the year, and they will bear syringing except when in 
flower. 

After flowering, which will last quite a long while, the 
plants will benefit from a rest. This may be given by 
cutting off all withered blooms, giving less water and 
putting the plants in a slightly cooler temperature. They 
are plants which when well established will withstand a 
considerable amount of hardship. Other kinds which 
might figure in a modest collection are : Barbatum, 
Charlesworthii, Callosum, Spicerianum, all of which are 
easy to grow. 

Cattleya Labiata 

This is a very showy orchid when in flower, but by no 
means beautiful in growth. Like most other orchids, they 
are propagated by division, any piece bearing buds and 
roots growing if given proper attention. 

With this class of orchid no loam is needed in the potting 
soil, the bulk of the compost being fibrous peat freed from 
dust, and sphagnum moss. Peat suitable for orchids can 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 87 

be bought from most nurserymen, but certainly from 
Messrs Wood & Sons of Wood Green. Sphagnum moss 
may also be obtained in this way, though it may also be 
often found growing in swampy woods in the neighbour- 
hood. This is the only kind of moss which will live and 
grow under these conditions, and it furnishes a valuable 
guide to watering, for whenever it appears of a whitish 
colour water may be given to the plants (provided, of 
course, they are in active growth) . Fibrous peat, two parts, 
sphagnum moss, one part, and a fair admixture of charcoal 
will prove a suitable compost for cattleyas. It needs to 
be added that all fern roots must be removed from the 
peat. The live ones must be thrown aside, but the dry, 
dead ones may well be used for putting at the bottom of 
the compost when potting instead of so many crocks. 

It is usual to mound the compost above the rim of the 
pot, as cattleyas do not need a lot of water. Rarely will 
the same plant need watering more than twice a week. 
Syringing between the plants — not overhead — ^should be 
done twice a day. Shading is advised from hot sunshine. 
When the leaves begin to feel warm let the blinds be 
dropped. They do not need shading to so great an extent 
as odontoglossums. The temperature at night should be 
about 60° and ventilation be given to prevent too rapid a 
rise by day. 

A point which I would like to emphasise with regard to 
cattleyas is that they be kept clean by frequent sponging, 
for the leaves very quickly get dirty. 

Plants which are freshly imported should have all dead 
roots trimmed off, the plants be well washed, stood 
on a layer of moist stones, crocks, ashes or coke, and 
be frequently syringed until roots are thrown out. Not 
until the roots are an inch or more in length should 
they be potted up. 



88 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Besides C. labiata, I would advise also C. trianae, C. 
mossiae, C. aurea, C. Eldorado, C. Skinneri and C. Gas- 
kelliana. 

Odontoglossum Crispum 

This is perhaps more of an amateur's orchid than the 
others I have mentioned, for it will do well in a temperature 
kept as closely as possible to 50°. It relishes cool condi- 
tions, combined with a moist atmosphere. On this 
account it is imperative that the flooring and staging and 
the spaces between the plants be damped three times a day. 
I do not recommend overhead syringing, as with inexperi- 
enced growers it can easily be overdone. 

Imported plants should be treated as advised for 
cattleyas, but when potting is being done I would advocate 
the use of osmunda fibre in preference to peat, and to this 
and sphagnum moss should be added some good oak-leaf 
soil prepared in the same manner as advised for calanthes. 

With closeness of atmosphere (for the temperature can 
be kept down by shading without a great amount of 
ventilation) and moisture, the pots will become coated 
with a green slime. This should be washed off. Shading 
may be given, except during the winter months, whenever 
the sun strikes the house. 

Beyond the differences noted in shading, temperature, 
moisture and compost, the culture of odontoglossums may 
follow on similar lines to the other orchids. Repotting 
will only be needed when the roots are seen to roam out- 
side the pot. Then may the plants be put into larger pots 
or be divided. 

Other good odontoglossums are Pescatorei, Rossi majus, 
coronarium, citrosmum, grande, cirrhosum, gloriosum and 
triumphans. 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 89 

Dendrobium Nobile 

Here we have another of those orchids which give living 
and floral testimony to the rankness of the heresy that 
orchids are for the rich and extravagant ; for this plant 
can be grown and flowered easily in a warm greenhouse. 
Indeed in small establishments we often find a few 
neglected orchids, and dendrobium nobile being among 
them can be depended on to flower well and during that 
time bring the owner credit for cultural skill which should 
make any honest man blush. 

Imported pieces, which are cheapest to buy but not 
always the most satisfactory, may be treated on arrival 
in the usual manner by washing and cleaning them and 
laying them on a bed of moist material in a warm house to 
be subjected to several syringings a day, until sufficient 
roots are emitted to give some anchorage and support 
when potted. This support may be augmented by a stake 
set in before the crocks are put in the pot, for obviously it 
would have little stability if driven into the compost only. 

The compost may follow on the lines recommended for 
cattleyas. Indeed, with this class of orchid compost does 
not play a large part in successful culture. Provided it be 
clean, sweet and capable of holding moisture, the essentials 
are present. Here let me warn readers never to give these 
orchids — viz. cattleyas, dendrobiums and odontoglossums 
— any manure-water or chemical stimulant. I do not con- 
tend that they never benefit from it, but in the hands of 
inexperienced persons it is likely to cause grave injury. 
Few good cultivators, in fact, do use stimulants, and then 
only in a very careful manner. The soundest advice I can 
offer readers is to leave all kinds of stimulants alone. 

During its growing career the dendrobium relishes a 



go THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

warm, moist atmosphere such as is found in what gardeners 
call a " stove." It may be syringed freely and forcibly 
to keep the plant growing and to ward off red-spider, or 
dislodge it if already there. 

The growth that is made one year flowers the next after 
the leaves have fallen. When growth is completed (and 
this may be known by the growth terminating in a leaf 
and showing no more signs of extension) a temperature of 
55° to 60° will suit the plants well. 

Good varieties are D. wardianum, densiflorum, 
Devonianum and philanopsis Shroderse, the last being 
specially useful for cutting. 

CCELOGYNE CrISTATA 

This class of orchid is probably less popular than any I 
have yet named. It is very showy when grown in large 
pans or wooden baskets, but on account of the short 
duration of the flowers it is practically useless as a cut 
flower. But this should not deter us from growing a very 
accommodating plant. A temperature of about 55° will 
suit it well throughout its growth. It dislikes much 
disturbance, and if doing well should only be divided when 
it has overgrown the pans or baskets. At other times it 
may be invigorated by having some fresh compost (peat 
fibre and sphagnum moss) pushed in between the bulbs. 
Usually coelogynes flower early in the year and will, of 
course, at that time, have to be watered carefully. Spong- 
ing of the leaves is advised for this as for all the other 
orchids to free them from dust. 

Popular Pelargoniums 

I write " popular " advisedly, knowing well that while 
many affect to despise few are bold enough to discard the 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 91 

pelargonium. There are several classes of these which* 
seem to me essential to greenhouse beauty. There is the 
old-fashioned but free-flowering " geranium," the ivy- 
leaved pelargonium, the show pelargonium, and for con- 
venience we might here include also the scented-leaved 
pelargonium, which is grown for the delightful association 
it makes with cut flowers. 



The Zonal Pelargonium 

First in order of place (as it is undoubtedly first in 
popularity) let us put the common geranium. This is a 





Diagram 23, — Zonal Pelargonium: i. Suitable cutting. 2. A potful of 
cuttings. 3. A rooted cutting. 4. Same potted in 3-inch pot. 5. Potted into 
6-inch pot. 6. Cut back after flowering. 

very adaptable plant which can be had in flower at any 
season of the year, but I will treat it chiefly as a winter- 



92 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

.flowering plant, when it is decidedly more useful than in 
the summer. It is a good plant for house and for table 
decoration, looks well in a conservatory, and is good as a 
cut flower. It is also eminently useful as a wall plant or a 
window plant. The singles do not travel as cut flowers 
as well as the doubles, unless into the eye of each pip is 
dropped some floral cement, but they do well for home 
decoration. 

I would advise that cuttings be inserted either in autumn 
or spring. If in spring — and this will usually be found the 
most convenient time — then the end of January may be 
chosen. By that time, in the course of culture which I am 
going to outline the plants will be almost past flowering. 
It is usual then to cut the old plants hard back — each 
growth to within a bud or two of its base — and to choose 
cuttings from the prunings. The old cut-back plants may 
be kept dry for a time, then be put into a moderate heat 
and be allowed to flower again in the summer. 

The cuttings are usually put five in a 3-inch pot and 
rooted on the open staging of a house with a temperature 
of about 60°. Not until they are rooted, potted up and 
somewhat established in their single pots should a cooler 
place be chosen for them. Once they reach this stage they 
will go ahead well in cool conditions. Any good potting 
compost will suit them, provided it be fairly open. With 
two or three pinchings the plants may be made to form 
a nice bush. The flowering size of pot recommended is 
six inches, stimulants in the way of liquid cow manure 
and fortnightly dressings of Clay's fertiliser being given 
when the plants fill their pots with roots. 

During the late spring months a cold frame with abund- 
ance of air is the best place for them, but after danger from 
frost has passed an open situation outside on a bed of cinder 
ashes will be preferable, until the beginning of September, 




Zonal Pelargonium— King of Denmark. Probably the most 

POPULAR DOUBLE VARIETY. It IS USEP'UL ALIKE FOR GREENHOUSE 
DECORATION OR FOR BEDDING 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 93 

when they should be brought inside. Until this time no 
flower buds may be allowed to develop. It will be well 
into October before a full display of bloom is obtained, 
but this should last until the end of January. 

With the old cut-back plants flowering in the summer 
and the young plants in the autumn and winter we get 
quite a surfeit of geraniums. Varieties are very numerous, 
and most of them good. If I must mention a few I would 
give Ville de Poitiers, Raspail, Hermione and Denmark 
as doubles, with Dryden, The Ghost, St Louis, Carmania, 
Gertrude Pearson, The Sirdar and Dr Rothera as singles. 



Ivy-Leaved Pelargoniums 

These are more extensively used for outside, but when 
well grown they form a good feature in the greenhouse. 
It is essential that they be kept sturdy or they will not 
flower well. For the amateur's greenhouse the best form 
for growing them is undoubtedly in baskets. This is best 
done by planting two or three well-established plants in 
each basket and tying them along the outside until it 
becomes completely furnished. Cuttings rooted early in 
the year will form useful flowering plants for the autumn. 
They look well when grown as standards or columns, 
especially if arranged in a mass with dwarfer plants be- 
neath. I do not recommend ivy-leaved geraniums for the 
greenhouse wall, as they do not flower during the winter. 

In the matter of soil, pinching and housing the culture 
may follow on the lines recommended for zonals. 

Scented-Leaved Geraniums 

These are not largely grown but a few may usually be 
seen in the amateur's greenhouse. I have found that the 



94 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

cuttings root more readily in the autumn and make finer 
plants than spring cuttings. Afew toppings of the growths 
will induce a more bushy appearance. Cold frame and 
outside treatment will serve as with zonals. They are 
grown on precisely the same lines. 



Show Pelargoniums 

These are now becoming once more popular, though why 
they should for a time have been otherwise I cannot 
imagine. I strongly advocate the growing of young plants 
each year, so that some of the older ones may be discarded. 
Besides giving a more dignified appearance in the foliage, 
they flower boldly, though for making large masses of 
bloom the young must undoubtedly give place to the 
older and consequently larger plants. 

Strong, healthy cuttings may be got at the beginning 
of July when the plants have finished flowering and are cut 
back. I prefer to put them into a box (where they are 
more likely to be kept in a right condition of moisture), 
in a frame or cool greenhouse. It will be some time before 
they are rooted, but when they are it is best to transfer 
them to small pots two and a half inches in diameter and 
set them in a cool greenhouse. Here they will have a 
chance to get well rooted, ready for moving into 4-inch 
pots, in which they may remain until the beginning of the 
year. 

By this time they will be getting pot-bound and may 
be removed into their flowering size — 6-inch pots. I 
have got them along to flower in 7-inch pots within 
the year, but it requires good treatment throughout. 

Throughout their career pelargoniums need cool con- 
ditions and plenty of light. To shade them will induce 
thin, weak growth and encourage green and white fly, to 




Show Pelargonium. Plants of this size may be raised from 
cuttings and flowered in less than a year 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 95 

which they are only too much addicted. Plants which 
do not seem to be breaking well may have the points 
pinched out to induce them to become bushy plants. 

The correct treatment for old plants is to cut the growth 
hard back after they have flowered and to keep them well 
on the dry side until new growth pushes out. Then in 
September bring them in, shake nearly all the old soil 
from them, put them into such pots as will just accom- 
modate them and keep them in a cool house until January, 
when they may be moved into their flowering pots. 

Good turfy loam should form the base of the compost. 
Add to this plenty of leaf -soil, some broken cow manure, 
some mushroom manure, mortar rubble and a dusting of 
Peruvian guano. 

I like varieties whose petals overlap well, as they do not 
fall so quickly and give a better appearance to the plants. 
Well-grown plants should be smothered with flowers. 

POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA 

To be precise, we should call this plant Euphorbia 
pulcherrima, but the one used is more generally known and 
understood. It is not largely grown by amateurs, nor is 
it one which can be whole-heartedly recommended to them 
as being likely to succeed well. 

The great difficulty with regard to it is rooting the 
cuttings. It is necessary that the pots be prepared before- 
hand, so that there may be no waste of time. Usually 
I have cut off the young growths with a slice of the old 
wood, dipped the exposed cut in water and then plunged 
it into a pan of sharp sand. When three or four cuttings 
are made I insert them singly in 2-inch pots, water them 
immediately and when the water has drained away put 
them into a close, warm propagator, where they can be 



96 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

shaded. These precautions are necessary to prevent the 
sap from flowing away, and as far as possible to prevent 
flagging. After they have rooted there is no great trouble 
with poinsettias beyond keeping them dwarf. They have 
a tendency to become drawn, and this must be guarded 
against by keeping them up close to the glass and working 
them into cooler quarters as soon as they seem somewhat 
established. Never should they be allowed to suffer 
from want of water, or they will surely lose their leaves. 

Six-inch pots should be large enough for good plants 
bearing bracts twelve to fifteen inches across. For be it 
noted, it is not the flower itself but the beautifully coloured 
leaves surrounding it which forms the beauty of the plant. 
A soil made open with mortar rubble and rich with cow 
manure will give sufficient nutriment until the plants are 
root-bound, when cow manure will form the finest liquid 
stimulant. 

Propagation may take place any time from May to July, 
the earlier month being preferable. If intended to be grown 
for a second year the plants should be pruned about the 
end of April to within a couple of eyes of the base after being 
kept dry from the time of the fading of the flowers. 
Poinsettias can be used as cut flowers if. the end when cut 
is immediately seared with a hot iron to prevent the escape 
of sap. 

Primula Obconica 

Although this plant flowers almost perpetually, it is 
banned by many on account of the poisonous attribute 
of its leaves. The mere touch of them will set up an irrita- 
tion in many skins, though personally I have always been 
able to handle them with impunity. Apart from this I 
consider P. obconica a splendid plant for the amateur. 
It can be grown from division as well as from seeds. 




Primula obconica, which might almost be described as per- 
petual FLOWERING. ThE NEW HYBRID FORMS ARE A VAST IM- 
PROVEMENT ON THE OLD TYPE 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 97 

Where seeds are sown, the early weeks of March 
should be chosen, as they are sometimes troublesome to 
germinate. If sown after the manner recommended for 
calceolarias success is more certain, though a higher 
temperature — 55° — is desirable. I prefer to use no leaf- 
soil in the seed pans. Early pricking off in boxes should 











Diagraitfii^. — Primula: i. Pan for seed-sowing. 2. Seedling Primula sinensis. 
3. Seedling Primula obconica. 4. Seedling pricked off. 5. Potted in 3-inch pot. 
6. Placed in cold frame. 7. Removed to 6-inch pot and supported with small 
pegs. 8. Placed on moist staging. 



be followed in due course by potting 
and 5-inch pots, in which nice plants 
first year. Except in the young stag 
cool treatment and moisture at the 
from hot sunshine. Liberal feeding 
when the plants are well established, 
broken apart in the spring, and with 



s into 2-inch, 3-inch 

can be grown for the 

jes, the plant relishes 

roots, with shading 

will be appreciated 

Old plants may be 

the additional aid of 



98 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

seeds a large batch can quickly be got together. I have 
known plants to form handsome floral specimens from 
October to June without intermission. The colours have 
bsen wonderfully improved of late years, and now the 
flowers are in many cases as large as those of the sinensis 
type. 

Primula Kewensis 

Another primula which every reader must try, because 
it possesses a colour hitherto unknown among indoor 
primulas, is the above. It is yellow and flowers freely, 
tier over tier, with untiring energy. Like the P. obconica 
and most other forms of primula, it lends itself to division. 
To trust wholly to division, hovv^ever, usually means in 
time a loss of vigour. Cool treatment following precisely 
on the lines of P. obconica will suit this beautiful primula. 

Primula Sinensis 

Like its variety, stellata, known best as the star primula, 
this is a gorgeous plant, but more fastidious and requiring 
more heat than the foregoing ; not, be it remembered, 
that they require much heat. That is not so ; for during 
the summer months they can well be accommodated in 
a cold frame and during winter a temperature of 50° will 
suffice. 

From February to June the seeds may be sown in a 
warm temperature. About the germination there is 
seldom any difficulty. I prefer to see the young plants 
pricked off into boxes, and only potted singly when they 
begin to crowd each other. Any good open soil will suit 
them, provided it be not old potting soil, for they certainly 
deserve good loam, fresh leaf-soil, and something in the 
way of manure. A fault with these primulas is that they 




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THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 99 

are inclined to topple over if not correctly potted, while 
burying the crown will cause the leaves to damp at their 
base. I would advise that the soil be brought fairly well 
up to the crown, and as a further security that three short 
pegs be put around the plant rising only about an inch 
or two above the soil. 

Primula sinensis requires shading, but will succeed well 
in a cold frame in the summer if transferred to a warmer 
structure early in September. Careful watering, no 
syringing, plenty of space, a moist bottom, liquid manure 
after good root-hold, pinching out all flower buds till the 
end of August — 'these are the items of culture which need 
most attention. The stellata type flowers more con- 
tinuously than the older form. A stock of greenhouse 
plants can scarcely be deemed complete without primulas. 

RiCHARDIA EtHIOPICA 

This harsh name, so science has decreed, obscures the 
well-known arum or calla lily. This plant, indeed, is one 
which amateurs might well rejoice over, for, being fond of 
swampy surroundings, it cannot be injured by over- 
watering. It is a very adaptable plant, and may be grown 
in different ways. In some districts it is the practice to set 
the plants out in the open ground during summer and to 
divide and pot them up in the early autumn. Others 
divide them at the time of planting out. Another method 
much favoured and found equally successful is gradually to 
dry off the plants after flowering and then to stand them 
in their pots in some odd corner till the autumn. This is 
the safer way and the method I recommend on that 
account, though growers of an experimental turn of mind 
may well try a few on the planting-out system. Let it, 
however, be said, by way of caution, that many good 



100 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

gardeners have failed to grow them in this way, so that it 
would seem that district and soil very largely affect the 
result. 

Any good potting soil will suit Richardias, and feeding 
may be adopted to increase wealth of bloom and rich 
foliage. I prefer to see several plants in one large 
pot rather than one specimen in a 6-inch or 7-inch pot. 

Cool treatment is relished, though flowering may be 




Diagram 25. — Richardia (Arum or Calla) : i. Seed pan for R. Elliotiana. 
2 and 3. Root-stocks starting into growth 4. Plants set out in open ground. 
5. A division from old plant. 6. Several roots potted into large pot. 

forwarded by gentle heat, so that with a sufficient supply 
of plants a succession may cover both Christmas and 
Easter. 

The yellow form, R. Elliotiana, deserves more extensive 
culture, not only on account of its rich colour but also 
because of the beauty of its silver-spangled leaves. It 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS loi 

can readily be produced from seeds but requires rather 
stronger heat than its white relative. 

These lilies when well flowered make a brave show. 



Salvia Splendens and Patens 

/ 

The scarlet salvia is undoubtedly a very brilliant plant 
in the autumn, and with good treatment I have known it 
last well in the conservatory for quite three months. It 
also looks pleasing, though vivid, in a drawing-room vase. 
We certainly must have salvias in our greenhouse to cheer 
the dull time of autumn. The cuttings root very easily 
in a warm house any time during the spring. Afterwards 
the plants are easily managed, for once they are established 
in 3-inch pots they may join company with chrysan- 
themums and be grown along with them, being treated 
similarly in every respect. 

Throughout their career the plants show a disposition 
to flower. This must be repressed by pinching out the 
points till the end of August. Free and forcible syringing 
will keep down that dreaded pest — red-spider. A point 
of culture meriting special emphasis is that the plants 
must never be allowed to become so dry as to flag. To 
obviate this I would advise plunging in ashes during the 
hottest part of the summer. After flowering, the plants 
may be cut back and put in a cold house or frame until 
cuttings are needed. 

It is not generally known that this plant can be grown 
successfully from seeds sown early in January. Last year 
I had a nice batch raised in this manner, the variety being 
Sutton's Scarlet Queen. 

Salvia patens is a pretty sky-blue, which is much grown 
outside but not so often inside. It forms tuberous roots 



102 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

and can be practically dried off after flowering. It can 
also be raised from seeds or from cuttings. 



SCHIZANTHUS 

At last we arrive at a plant which all might grow. Rapid 
strides have been made of late years in the improvement 
of these plants since the time when S. pinnatus was some- 
times seen in the greenhouse. Carter's and Sutton's may 
be relied on to give good strains, though the seeds would 
cost a few pence more than from some other firms. 

I do not advise the growing of schizanthuses to flower 
in the summer-time. They run too quickly to flower and 
do not form such handsome specimens as when grown in 
the autumn and winter, when the future is built up on a 
soild groundwork of slow growth. 

I advise that seeds be sown at intervals between the 
latter part of August and of October. It may happen that 
some will run prematurely to flower, but with several 
batches having a break of but a fortnight between them 
this difficulty is easily overcome. 

The earlier batches may be sown in a pan stood in a cold 
frame and only be protected during rain. It is important 
that they be kept cool. They greatly resent forcing, and 
as a guide it may be said that their ideal temperature 
would be between 40° and 45°. Plants from these 
sowings should give a succession of flowers from January 
till June, a sufficiently lengthy period to prevent us tiring 
of them. 

A method of culture which I have found eminently 
successful is to prick off the young seedlings into boxes 
as soon as the first sign of a rough leaf is seen. When the 
growths touch, the plantlets may be potted singly into 
3-inch pots, be thence, in due course, transferred to 



THE BEST FLOWERING PLANTS 103 

5-inch, and finally, if doing well, into 7-incli pots, in 
which huge plants can be grown. 

A good open soil and firm potting will suit schizanthuses 
with no attempt at shading. Never should they want 
for water, while to allow them to remain root-bound is 
a deadly sin, the punishment for which is premature 
flowering and puny plants. It was at one time delivered 
to me as a doctrine that these plants would not bear 
feeding. This I have proved to be a heresy, for besides 
adding chemical stimulants liberally to the soil I have fed 
them with liquid cow manure and frequently top-dressed 
them with Peruvian guano. 

One or sometimes two pinchings are required to make 
bushy specimens. Beyond this a neat central stake, 
frequent tying, and a clear space for development are 
essential items in successful culture. 

S. retusus, though beautiful as a cut flower, cannot 
compare en masse with its more floriferous relative, 
S. Wisetonensis, and especially with the large-flowering 
hybrid forms which are now so popular. 

Streptocarpus 

If the gloxinia is popular, so also should be the strepto- 
carpus, for in many respects they partake of the same 
character and culturally may be grown and flowered 
together. The plants do not present so striking an appear- 
ance, nor are the flowers arrayed with such gorgeous 
colours, but considering the improvements made in them 
during the last decade, I would certainly advise their 
inclusion among the best flowering plants. 

Seeds must be sown in the early part of the year and be 
diligently attended to. Prick off into other pans or a box 
when large enough, but do not pot them until they have 



104 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

made a sufficient mass of roots to merit a 2|-inch pot. 
From this, by way of progressive potting they may reach a 
5-inch or 6-inch pot, and will, if massed together or 
grouped with maidenhair ferns, form quite a charming 
feature. Soil such as that advised for gloxinias will suit 
them splendidly, with liberal feeding with liquid manure 
when the pots are so filled with roots that the soil dries 
out quickly. 

The plants relish what gardeners term an intermediate 
temperature, say about 55° ; they must not have great 
fluctuations of temperature or they will not make steady 
growth, and an eye must be kept on their leaves to get rid 
of thrip as soon as it makes an appearance. This pest is 
dealt with in the chapter especially devoted to greenhouse 
pests. 



CHAPTER VII 

the best foxiage plants 

Aralia 

With the aspidistra and Ficus elastica this forms a verit- 
able triumvirate which cannot be matched among green- 
house plants for hardness of constitution as plants for 
rooms. None of them is distinctly ornamental in a 
greenhouse, where they might easily escape notice, but, as 
they last for a long while, with apparent indifference to 
adverse climatic conditions, they deserve special culture 
for house purposes. 

I knew an aralia which served as a room plant for over 
five years — the only interlude of greenhouse occupation 
being when the family were away. After this the family 
moved and the plant came into the possession of a 
cottager, who probably has it now. 

Aralias can easily be grown from seed, and this is the 
method advised for amateurs. Ringing or notching of 
old plants is often resorted to, and those who feel equal to 
the task could try this method. By working young 
seedlings along in a warm temperature they can 
quickly be made into useful specimens ; but to my 
idea they never look so well in their young stage as 
when they get a head on them, and all the leaves 
seem to spring from the same centre, some drooping, 
some erect, and others standing out horizontally from 
the stem. 

105 



io6 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

When they have reached a 6-inch pot they may be 
given a cooler temperature. 

It is advised to grow a few plants from seeds each year, 
and to discard tall, ungainly specimens, though they can, 
of course, be rejuvenated by ringing or notching. The 
latter method is preferable. A cut is made half-way 
through the stem at a point a few inches below the lowest 
leaves. From below the cut a piece is sliced out so as to 
leave the surface of the first cut bare. Thus the top is 
supported by only half the stem. Some damp moss mixed 
with sharp sand is tied over the cut, and this is kept moist 
by syringing until sufficient roots are thrown out to enable 
the top to be cut away entirely and be treated as a separate 
plant. 

Aspidistra 

This is a plant that is found in so many homes and so 
many greenhouses that it needs no eulogy from me. There 
is a variegated form which is not very beautiful and not 
very popular. I wonder if readers have ever seen this 
plant flower. Its flowers are quite close to the soil and 
might easily pass unnoticed, as they frequently do. The 
usual method of propagation is by division, but this need 
not be frequently practised. Plants which are root-bound 
— provided they are plentifully supplied with water^are 
much better left undisturbed for several years. If extra 
large plants are desired they may be secured by giving a 
gentle heat and keeping the plants potted along. As the 
plants are intended to remain a long time undisturbed a 
good soil should be provided at potting-time and charcoal 
should be incorporated to keep the compost sweet. Good 
fibrous, turfy loam should form the major portion, with 
an admixture of oak leaf -soil. Stimulants may be given 
afterwards by way of liquid manure. Aspidistras are 



THE BEST FOLIAGE PLANTS 107 

generally priced at a penny a leaf. Frequent sponging of 
the leaves is the only way to keep them in good appear- 
ance, especially when in a dwelling-house. A mixture of 
milk and water for sponging will give the leaves a glossy 
appearance. 

Greenhouse Asparagus 

The two kinds usually grown are A. sprengeri and 
A. plumosus. The latter is specially adapted for making 
buttonholes, sprays and bouquets and for decorative work 
generally. There are climbing and dwarf forms, the latter 
being preferable for the small greenhouse. A. sprengeri is 
also useful for decoration, and makes a splendid basket 
plant. In fact, when growing vigorously no pot can con- 
tain it, for its tuberous roots exert such pressure that they 
will in time split the stoutest pot, even when bound with 
wire. In a wire basket the roots can easily push through. 
Both forms may be raised from seed and both may be 
increased by division. It is best to keep them rather 
closely potted. Usually I make it a practice to pot them 
up at the same time as the chrysanthemums are put into 
their final pots, using the same soil and making it quite 
firm. They flourish best when kept somewhat warm. 



Caladium 

Those who can command sufficient heat should certainly 
grow some caladiums, which do remarkably well for display 
in the house or the conservatory, even if they confine 
themselves to the dwarf form such as C. argyrites, which 
makes a charming effect when dotted along the fringe of a 
group or bank of plants. 

The roots should be potted up in the spring as soon as 



io8 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

they show signs of renewed growth, and may be put into 
quite small pots when the soil has been shaken off. A 
further potting will be needed when the roots have made 
progress. Free exposure to all but the fiercest sunshine 
will improve the colour of the leaves. Large forms may 
be obtained, with broad, expansive leaves which under 
high cultivation suggest coarseness. They would do well 
enough for large grouping but are altogether out of place 
in a small greenhouse. 

A soil made up of peat, turfy loam, leaf -soil and mortar 
rubble or road grit will do well for caladiums, and when 
once established they will stand liberal feeding. Flowers 
should be pulled off as they appear, and after gradually 
drying off in the autumn the plants may be set beneath a 
staging of a warm house till spring. 

COLEUS 

This is a highly ornamental plant, which is very easily 
grown and may be had in many lovely shades of colour. 
It serves a good purpose in giving colour to the greenhouse 
in summer, when a multitude of flowers is not looked for. 
By striking cuttings in the autumn huge plants may be got 
by June and July, and these will keep fresh for four or 
five months. 

I find that the cuttings root best if not put into a pro- 
pagator but simply set in 3-inch pots, five cuttings in each, 
and put on the open staging. It may be necessary to shade 
them if they have a tendency to flag. This can be easily 
done with a sheet of newspaper. 

When the cuttings show they have rooted by commenc- 
ing to grow, they may be potted singly into 3-inch pots, 
and rather more than a week later the points may be 
pinched out. From this size they may, when they have well 



THE BEST FOLIAGE PLANTS 109 

filled the pot with roots and made several side growths, 
be moved into a 6-inch. This will probably not be needed 
until the turn of the year, it being usually better to avoid 
doing much potting during November and December, 
when growth seems so difficult. The 6-inch pots should 
last until May, when a further and final shift into 9-inch 
pots will enable huge plants four feet high and three feet 
through to be formed. Several pinchings of the growths 
will bring about a nice bushy shape, and in summer, if 
three of these plants are banked up together they fill a 
very large space. 

Some forms of coleuses damp off in the leaf a good deal. 
These should be eliminated from the stock as early as 
possible. Flower buds should be pinched off as they 
appear, for they are by no means ornamental. Any good 
soil will suit, provided it be made open. When cuttings 
are taken the old plants may be thrown away. 

Croton 

This is a highly ornamental foliage plant which relishes 
a close atmosphere and a brisk heat and cannot be grown 
to any good standard of success in the cold greenhouse. 
Few amateurs grow it on account of its requiring too much 
heat but it is well worth all the care bestowed on it. For a 
table plant, for grouping, or for the use of its beautifully 
marked and oft-times curly leaves in flower glasses and 
bowls, it serves very useful purposes. The usual method 
of propagation is by notching the stem in the same manner 
as described for the aralia. They root quite easily from 
cuttings, but the notching and mossing is done to ensure 
the leaves being quite close to the pot. It is a fault of 
great magnitude to have crotons with bare stems. Cuttings 
may be taken whenever available, but the notching is 



no THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

usually done in spring. Crotons like a rich soil, with peat 
to keep it open. They are best grown in 5-inch pots. 



Drac^nas 

Embracing so many forms and varieties, these plants 
are not difficult to grow, for many of them — mostly the 




1. 1 




Diagram 26. — i. Dracaena notched at {a) and covered with moss and sand. 
2. Cutting inserted in bottle ot water. 3. Stem cut up as at (c) into lengths {b) and 
put in as cuttings. 4. Toes or thick fleshy roots cut off (f^, and put in a pot (^e). 

green-leaved varieties — will stand cold treatment and are 
therefore more especially recommended for readers of 
this book. Quite tall specimens may be had if desired, 
but those which are a few feet in height will be found the 
most useful. 

There are several methods of propagation, such as by 
seeds, by offsets or side cuttings, by eyes and by cuttings 
of the tap-root. When the ball of soil is seen to be lifted 



THE BEST FOLIAGE PLANTS iii 

out of the pot an inspection will disclose the fact that there 
is a thick, fleshy tap-root at the bottom. If this " toe," as 
it is sometimes called, is cut off an inch or more long and 
put into a propagator it will quickly produce another plant. 
The stem of the dracaena may also be cut into lengths of 
a couple of inches, and if put into soil will, most of them, 
grow. Tall plants may also be dwarfed by notching and 
mossing and seeds may be sown, though this course is 
rarely practised. Cuttings of side growths will root if 
put into a bottle of water or in soil. 

When rooted the young plants may be potted along in a 
fairly warm house and it will be found best to keep them 
in small pots instead of rushing them into a large size, 
where they lose their value as room plants. 

Varieties to be recommended are : Australis, Lindenii, 
Indivisa and Sanderiana, which are but a few among 
several scores of different sorts and types. A few dracsenas 
are almost essential for setting off other plants in the 
greenhouse. 

Ficus Elastica 

More frequently grown for the room than for the green- 
house, this is nevertheless a splendid plant. It has a very 
hard constitution and will bear much ill-treatment, which 
it certainly does not deserve. There is a variegated form 
which deserves more extended culture. To grow these 
plants requires no skill, the main item being good water- 
ing. Plants may be obtained from cuttings, but the usual 
method is notching and ringing, which rarely fails to pro- 
duce a good result. To keep the plants healthy and of 
good appearance the leaves should be frequently sponged. 
Any good potting soil will suit the ficus. 

Ficus repens is a pretty clinging plant well adapted for 
clothing the wall of a warm house. 



112 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



Gesneras 

Although not so largely grown as they were some years 
ago, they richly deserve a place in the greenhouse, for they 
have the merit of being beautiful alike in foliage and flower. 
They are grown from corms and are dried off after the 
manner of gloxinias, to which they are related. They 
may be easily propagated also by the leaf. The corms 
are very brittle and need careful handling when they are 
shaken free of the old soil and potted up in the spring. 
Several plants are grown in a pot, and fine specimens can 
be obtained in a 7-inch size. A peaty soil built up on the 
lines laid down for gloxinias will suit them admirably. 
The temperature best suiting gesneras will be found to be 
50° to 55°. Some support will be needed for the growths 
— such as thin bamboo tips — and during bright sunshine a 
screen from its fierce rays must be provided, while, like 
gloxinia, they prefer a humid atmosphere. 

Grevillea Robusta 

This is a very graceful plant with palm-like leaves, and, 
being very quickly and easily grown, is in many cases more 
useful than palms. As a table or room plant it is invalu- 
able as well as for mixing with other plants in the con- 
servatory, while it is also employed as a dot plant in sub- 
tropical bedding. It can easily be grown from seeds, which 
is the usual method of propagation. These will need to be 
sown in a warm house early in the year, and when they 
have broken into the rough leaf they can be accommodated 
in quite small pots and be potted along in good soil as 
occasion demands. It is not desirable to grow them in 
large pots. 



THE BEST FOLIAGE PLANTS 113 

Cuttings may be taken if desired, but better and surer 
results are obtained from seeds. When the plant becomes 
leggy it may be cut back and will break out from below, 
but young plants worked along from a small yearly sowing 
will give the best results. Except during the early part 
of its career, the Grevillea does not require a high tempera- 
ture, a cold-house temperature of 45° to 50° being more 
suitable. 

Ferns 

Judged by the number of species and varieties, this is 
indeed a formidable subject. But unless any reader 
intends to specialise in ferns I can in a few words outline 
a treatment which will be sufficiently satisfactory. If he 
intends to specialise, then I can only recommend him to 
buy some of the eminently practical books on ferns by such 
well-known specialists as the Rev. D. Druery. This work 
is not intended for the specialist but for the general grower. 

However, ferns are a vital necessity to a beautiful con- 
servatory, so we must afford a few practical paragraphs. 

In the first place I would advise the reader to purchase 
young plants in pots from a good fern-grower. To increase 
his stock he has then two courses open to him. Either he 
may grow them from spores, which is interesting, or he 
may increase them by division, which is certain. I would 
advise both methods. 

Fronds of ferns should be gathered when the spores at 
the back of the little leaflets are ripe — quite brown . These 
fronds should be carefully put in clean white paper. After 
several days it will be found on examination that there 
has accumulated a quantity of very fine brown dust. This 
will be sown. Fill a shallow pan, after duly crocking it, 
with clean, fine sandy soil pressed down moderately firm. 
Then put a small piece of brown paper or cardboard on 



114 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

the surface and gently pour boiling water over until the 
whole of the sandy soil is saturated. This is done in order 
to kill any spores of worthless varieties and to ensure good 
forms similar to those from which the fronds were gathered. 
A sheet of glass should then be placed over the pan and 
when the water has well drained away- — say by the next 
day — sowing may be done as evenly as possible. The 
glass should again be put on and the pan taken to the 
greenhouse, where it can be shaded and be stood in a saucer 
or pan kept continually filled with water. Hence there 
will be no need to remove the glass until the ferns appear. 
This will occur in two or three months' time, after a green 
coating has appeared over the surface. When the small 
fronds appear the little ferns may be pricked off into pans 
and be eventually potted up. 

Division is usually undertaken about February, when 
the plants have completed their resting period and young 
growths are appearing. The pieces should be potted into 
the smallest pots that will contain them and whether or 
not they make good plants will largely depend on the skill 
exercised in watering. I do not advocate the splitting up 
of ferns every year. A few should be done each year, but 
the others should be kept growing steadily along ; for 
despite the great value of ferns in small pots it cannot 
be gainsaid that a nice specimen in a lo-inch pot is a plant 
to be proud of and it will provide plenty of fronds for 
cutting. 

A good soil for ferns will consist of fibrous loam broken 
into pieces, fibrous peat, good oak leaf -soil, charcoal, brick 
dust and sharp silver sand. If this be thoroughly mixed, 
well moistened, and made fairly firm there are very few 
ferns which it will not grow. 

Ferns need careful watering, yet when in full growth they 
dry out quickly, and if perchance they flag it is the best plan 




POLYPODIUM KnIGHTI/E— A BEAUTIFUL FERN FOR A BASKET 



THE BEST FOLIAGE PLANTS 115 

to set them bodily in a pail or tub of water for a few hours. 
Most ferns resent overhead syringing, yet like a moist 
atmosphere and shade from bright sunshine. 

Ferns may be grown in pots, in baskets, and on walls, 
and often spring up spontaneously in the most unlooked- 
for places. 

A few of those most suitable for the general grower would 
be : Adiantum capillis veneris, A. cuneatum, A. gracilli- 
mum, A. farleyense ; Pteris cristata, tremula, serrulata, 
cretica ; Nephrolepsis exaltata, Dufh, davallivides. These 
are very easy to grow, and are those most often found in 
miscellaneous collections of plants. 

Palms 

Most greenhouse owners will have a few palms, if they 
only be kept for taking into the drawing-room or the hall 
on special occasions . Certainly they beautify a greenhouse 
at all times, and come to the rescue when there is a shortage 
of flowering plants — ^an occurrence which cannot always be 
avoided. 

There is not much to write about the culture of palms, 
for they have the happy knack of looking after themselves 
to a large extent. Neglect, however, especially in the 
matter of watering, will very soon produce brown tips to 
the leaves, while failure to give^ adequate shading will 
develop brown patches. Unless a palm is free from 
blemishes of this description it is scarcely fitting to use 
it to set off the beauty of other plants. 

Many forms can be grown from seeds, but the most 
satisfactory method is to buy young plants established in 
small pots. With correct treatment they will grow and 
last for a great number of years. 

There is nothing to surpass good fibrous, turfy loam for 



ii6 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

palms, though to ensure porosity and sweetness I would 
add mortar rubble and charcoal. If the turf be of a nature 
which quickly decays it would be well to add good fibrous 
peat. Being naturally of a slow-growing nature, palms 
do not need to be stimulated, hence manure or manurial 
stimulants are best avoided. Good drainage and firm 
potting are advised in view of the fact that it will be some 
time before the larger plants have a shift. 

Syringing of the foliage should be frequent and sponging 
of the foliage should be done periodically — at any rate three 
or four times a year. It is not wise to stand palms directly 
on an earth floor, as they thereby become troubled with 
worms in the soil which soon produce sourness. 

Useful palms are : Kentia Balmoriana, K. Fosteriana, 
K. Sanderiana ; Cocos Weddelliana ; Phoenix Roebelini 
and P. dactylifera. 



CHAPTER VIII 

BEAUTIFUL BULBS FOR FORCING 

A GREENHOUSE without bulbous flowering plants in the 
winter and spring would never achieve a very wide reputa- 
tion. Whoever sets himself the task of making the spring 
greenhouse beautiful without them sets himself a task 
which does no credit to his ideas of floral beauty. 

Readers will know that I refer to tulips, hyacinths, 
narcissi, jonquils, gladioli, snowdrops, irises, and perhaps 
a few crocuses. 

There need be no distinction made in the matter of 
culture, and this renders my task comparatively easy. It 
is well first of all to procure good sound bulbs early in the 
season, and pay a fair price for them. The man who aims 
hard at being economical will find that economy in coin 
has borne the unlooked-for offspring of economy in beauty. 
This is but a just punishment for those who wait till the 
end of the season, when everyone has had the best pick, 
in order to be able to get bulbs in the saleroom a few 
shillings cheaper. 

It is well to have the bulbs potted up in September or 
October for the main supply. Roman hyacinths and 
Paper-white Narcissi need to be potted early in August 
to secure blooms during November and December. But if 
I were an amateur gardener with a small greenhouse I 
would not try to get any of these bulbs in flower before 
the New Year. About that time the chrysanthemums are 
getting over and we want something to fill up the gap. 
117 



ii8 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Nor would I endeavour to get tulips or daffodils before the 
New Year, as they rarely produce their best when quickly 
forced, and although we get the tulips to flower, the stems 
are too short to render them of any value as cut flowers. 
Bulbs may be forced in pans, bowls, pots or boxes. In a 
small way pots will be found most serviceable, as then a few 
pots may be brought on at a time. Five-inch or six-inch 
pots are most serviceable, and I would advise that as many 






Diagram 27. — i. Bulbs potted closely together. 2. Showing position of 
bulbs. 3. Pots covered with ashes or sand. 4. Removed from ashes and put in 
a cold frame when growth is an inch or two high. 

bulbs as can be accommodated be put in each pot. Usually 
four to six tulips may be put in a 5-inch pot without 
their touching. The pots being duly crocked and the 
drainage covered with moss or leaves, some soil is put in 
and made firm but not unduly so. The bulbs are then set 
in place so that when the potting is finished the points will 
just appear above the surface. Some press the bulbs into 
the soil, but this, I am sure, is a mistaken policy, and is the 



BEAUTIFUL BULBS FOR FORCING 119 

reason why the bulbs lift out of the soil when they start 
to throw out roots. Having set the bulbs in place, put 
some more soil in and press it down with the fingers, but 
leave a space between the surface and the rim of the pot 
for watering. 

To ensure success we must now plunge the pots in sand 
or ashes. Sifted coal ashes will usually be available. It is 
necessary to cover them with about six inches. This is 
done in order to induce them to throw out a plentiful supply 
of roots before much growth is made at the top. If they 
are allowed to grow at the top before roots are made, the 
result will be very poor flowers. All the bulbs mentioned 
may be subjected to this treatment, and they may remain 
in the ashes for two months or more. Frequent examina- 
tion after this time will show whether they need removal, 
as they will do when the growths are rather more than an 
inch long. 

Bulbs of this kind relish a soil made up of loam, leaf -soil, 
mushroom manure and sand. The chief point of culture is 
the watering. It is very easy to spoil them by allowing 
them to become very dry. A few small sticks may be 
necessary, for some of the hyacinths and certainly the 
narcissi of all kinds will need support. 

To keep up a successional supply a few plants may be 
brought into the warm house each week. Where the con- 
venience exists, the best plan in this respect is to have 
some bulbs in a cold frame, some in a cool house and others 
in a warm house. Each week a few are brought into the 
warm from the cool house ; these are replaced by others 
from the frame. In this way a regular succession is kept 
up without any difficulty. 

Small deep boxes are useful for the purpose, but for 
successional batches the large boxes would mean that too 
many flowers were brought on at the same time. 



120 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Good varieties of tulips for growing in the greenhouse 
are : Mon Tresor, Proserpine, Couleur de Cardinal, Rose 
Gris de Lin, Thomas Moore, Tournesol, Keizerskroon ; 
and the early varieties. Due von Thol. A few Darwin or 
May-fiowering tulips might well be tried in pots if space 
be available, but it would not do to force them very early. 

Among narcissi we should include the old English 
double, as also the various forms of Phoenix, Golden 
Spur, Emperor, Sir Watkin, Princeps and Autocrat. A 
few also of the polyanthus forms might be included, 
such as Grand Monarque. The sweet-scented jonquil 
will be most appreciated. 

Good hyacinths may be bought more cheaply in their 
colours than in named varieties, and considering the great 
price asked for hyacinths I would certainly advise this 
course. 

Irises, crocuses and snowdrops are not often grown in 
pots, but when they are the same kind of treatment may 
be afforded them. 

It must not be forgotten that after forcing most of these 
bulbs become available for the outside garden, and on that 
account they should be carefully dried off and be planted 
out during the summer or autumn, so that if they are 
somewhat expensive at first they serve a purpose, with 
few exceptions, for more than one year. 



CHAPTER IX 

BEAUTIFUL PLANTS FOR FORCING 

There are many shrubby plants which naturally flower 
outside in the spring that can by forcing be persuaded to 
flower much earlier in the greenhouse. 

Among those most generally used with success are : 
lilacs, deutzias, staphyleas, spireas, dielytras, roses, 
azaleas, lilies of the valley, liliums, hydrangeas, violets, 
Solomon's seal. 

Plants which are intended for forcing are best got into 
their flowering pots early in the autumn, if indeed they 
have not been left in them through the summer. If they 
are left exposed to frost it is usually found that they force 
much better, but to expose the pots to severe frost will 
mean that many of them will probably become cracked, or 
at any rate damaged. This can be guarded against by 
plunging the plants above the rims of the pots in ashes or 
leaves, or even in ordinary soil. If leaves are available I 
would prefer them. Then the plants will be safe through- 
out the autumn and winter, and a few may be brought 
along at a time as they are wanted. 

But to take a plant from a frosty atmosphere to a warm 
house is not a good practice, for no plant relishes such sharp 
fluctuations of temperature and many will show unmistak- 
able signs of this resentment. They should be removed 
from the outside to a cold house for a week, and from this 
they may be moved into a warm house. As with bulbs, 
the easiest manner is to move a few plants round each 
week or each fortnight. Gentle forcing can be done at 

121 



122 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

50°, and rarely for the plants in question will it be neces- 
sary to go beyond 65°. If the thermometer stand fairly 
steady at 60°, that should meet most requirements. 

For successful forcing a policy must be formed and 
adhered to. That may be to force the same plants only 
once in three years, planting them out early in the summer 
and allowing them to recuperate and build up strength 
under natural conditions for two years . Where this cannot 
be done the batch could at any rate be divided into two 
parts, one part being forced and the other grown naturally 
alternate seasons. It is further advised that only robust, 
healthy plants be chosen for forcing. As may be supposed, 
this unnatural process is rather exhaustive and weaklings 
would surely produce poor results. 

When potting these subjects up for forcing it must be 
remembered that not many roots will be made during the 
time, therefore the smallest pots which will contain them 
should be used. During their stay in the forcing house 
the plants must be syringed twice daily, and it is an ad- 
vantage though not a necessity to have the pots plunged 
in a bed of leaves. Watering should only be done when 
there are clear signs of its being needed, for over-watering 
will surely do harm. As the plants come into flower 
syringing will cease and when the blooms are expanded 
they may be taken to the conservatory or the dwelling- 
house. Such plants as are forced should not be set outside 
after forcing until danger from frost may reasonably be 
supposed to have departed. Even though they are hardy 
plants their growth after being forced is sure to be soft 
and tender. 

Besides those named there are other plants which may 
be forced, such as ribes, viburnum, wistaria, pyrus, 
magnolia, jasmines, choysia, daphne, ^aburnum and 
rhododendron, but even in large establishments these are 
very seldom used. 




Spirea Queen Alexandra. A beautiful blush-coloured Spirea, 

SPLENDID FOR FLOWERING WITH GENTLE FORCING IN MAY 



CHAPTER X 

OUTDOOR PLANTS IN THE GREENHOUSE 

We can form quite a list of plants which, though usually 
grown in the garden, are well worth a place in the 
greenhouse. Stocks, asters, heliotrope, antirrhinums, 
pentstemons, kochias, sweet-peas, Canterbury bells, 
auriculas, violets, Clarkias, godetias, wallflowers, lobelias, 
violas, campanulas, mignonette, nicotiana, petunia, 
verbena — these form quite a good list, and may be 
successfully grown by any amateur. 

Antirrhinums. — These are grown from seeds or from 
cuttings, and I would recommend clear shades or self- 
colours. Seeds should be sown early in the spring and 
cuttings inserted in a cold frame in the autumn. They 
will be pricked off into boxes and worked along as if 
intended for outside, except that when large enough for 
3-inch pots, they will be put into them, and eventually 
into 6-inch pots, or possibly 7-inch, in which good plants 
should be obtained. 

Auriculas.' — ^These plants are not the favourites they 
used to be in the greenhouse. If it is decided to grow 
them — ^and they are well worth it — quite good kinds may 
be grown from seeds sown in the spring and treated in a 
manner similar to primulas. Polyanthus might also be 
grown in the greenhouse with good results if good clumps 
are potted up in the autumn. 

Asters. — These form delightful subjects for pots, and 
123 



124 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

they do exceedingly well for cut flowers. Tall kinds, such 
as Sutton's Mammoth, make grand specimens in large 
pots. They have to be watered carefully. It is some- 
times found a good plan to pot up asters in order that 
they may be kept back until some other plants, whose 
place they are to take, have finished flowering. 

Canterbury Bells. — ^Delightful as pot plants. They 
may be potted up just before they throw up their flower 
spikes ; or, when quite seedlings, they may be potted into 
3-inch pots, and eventually moved along so that three 
plants will flower in a g-inch pot. Only clear, soft colours 
of the single varieties are advised. 

Campanulas. — I here refer to the tall chimney cam- 
panulas. As with Canterbury bells, I prefer to get them 
in their pots quite early in their career. Sow in spring, 
prick off into boxes, pot into 3-inch pots, and through 
6-inch to their final 9-inch pots. They will not flower 
the same season they are sown, but if given hardy treat- 
ment and liberal feeding they should eventually form 
good specimens and may afterwards be planted out in 
the borders. Blue and white forms are available. 

Clarkias. — ^These grow taller as pot plants than they 
would outside. They may very well be treated in the 
same manner as advised for schizanthuses. They are 
rather impatient of root disturbance and should be care- 
fully looked after, following the pricking out and potting. 
Sutton's Firefly should certainly be grown. 

GoDETiAS. — Godetias are strong rivals to Clarkias for 
the purpose of furnishing the greenhouse and providing 
cut flowers, especially as they are more compact in habit 
and some forms are much more dwarf-like. Sow in 
autumn and grow along in cold quarters to flower in 
the spring. 

Heliotropes. — Heliotrope is quite popular on account 







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OUTDOOR PLANTS IN GREENHOUSE 125 

of its fragrance. Large plants may be obtained by pro- 
pagating from cuttings in the autumn and growing them 
along under warm conditions. I have obtained standard 
plants four feet high, with bushy heads, by adopting this 
method, but quite respectable plants may be got from 
spring propagation. Six-inch pots will be quite large 
enough in which to flower them. Good varieties to grow 
in pots are Lord Roberts and Madame de Bussey. 

KocHiA Tricophylla. — Often called the mock cypress, 
this is a very pretty foliage plant which towards autumn 
changes to a beautiful reddish tint. It can easily be 
grown from seeds sown early in the year. If good 
branching plants are to be obtained the young plants 
must be pricked off early and on no account be crowded 
or starved. 

Lobelias. — Both double and single, they make very 
pretty edging plants in the greenhouse if grown in 3-inch 
pots. They may be rooted in spring and potted up in 
April or May. I prefer the double form for this purpose. 
In the following spring these plants are useful for pro- 
viding cuttings for the beds and borders. Some very 
promising plants I have even moved on to 6-inch pots 
and they have amply repaid the trouble. 

Mignonette. — Success with mignonette cannot be 
guaranteed. A system which has brought me more 
success than any other is to make up some good soil 
containing plenty of mortar rubble and fill some 5-inch 
pots to within an inch of the rim. The space thus left 
is filled with fine sandy soil such as is used for seeds and 
cuttings. In this the seeds are sown and put into a cold 
frame and shaded until germination. The seedlings are 
thinned early, and in due course, when the plants have 
grown a few inches and are going away strongly, a move 
is made into 7-inch pots in which fine stuff for the con- 



126 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

servatory or for cutting are obtained. For winter and 
spring flowering sow in August and October. 

NicoTiANA. — Some like to grow the hybrid forms of 
these plants in pots. They are not difficult to grow, 
being sown early in February, pricked off early and 
potted up from boxes to 3-inch pots, being moved later 
to flower in the 7-inch size. Cool conditions are required 
for these as for practically all the outdoor plants named. 

Pentstemons. — ^These are not often grown in pots, 
except by nurserymen for exhibition, but given a good 
bold variety they make a striking display. Strike cuttings 
in a cold frame in the autumn, pot up in 3-inch pots in 
the spring and move on to 6-inch. This method of 
culture also provides good plants for the beds. 

Petunias. — ^These were at one time recognised as 
greenhouse plants, but of late they have lost favour both 
in greenhouse and garden. There is no reason why they 
should not again grow into favour, as I think they will 
when some of their newer rivals have become stale. 
They can be propagated from seeds or cuttings in the 
spring and grown along in the same manner as plants for 
bedding. 

Stocks. — Stocks of the intermediate section are now so 
largely used for the greenhouse that they may almost be 
classed as greenhouse plants. Seeds should be sown from 
June to August and be pricked off three in a pot to be 
eventually worked on to 6-inch or 7-inch pots. When 
about three inches high pinch the points out and take up 
about three growths per plant. June sowings will usually 
give stocks at Christmas, with a succession from those sown 
in August, but during a mild autumn, such as that of 1913, 
they cannot be prevented from flowering much earlier. 
Ten weeks' stocks may be grown for the purpose, but 
most firms now catalogue a selection of winter-flowering 



OUTDOOR PLANTS IN GREENHOUSE 127 

stocks, good varieties among them being Crimson King, 
Beauty of Nice, Riviera Market and Queen Alexandra. 

Sweet-peas. — By gentle forcing, sweet-peas may be 
had in flower in April and May. Sow seeds in September 
in boxes or pots and put five or six in large pots about 
Christmas. By keeping them in a cold, light, airy house 
and staking them when they need it, they will produce 
quite a good supply of flowers before they can be had 
outside. 

Verbenas. — ^When grown for the greenhouse these are 
best propagated by means of cuttings rooted under cold 
conditions in the autumn, or over a hotbed in the spring. 
The great enemy is mildew, which may be kept in check 
to some extent by dusting flowers of sulphur over the 
foliage. Verbenas come fairly true from seed — even that 
beautiful variety. Miss Willmott, can be had almost true 
to colour from seeds. These should be sown quite early 
in the year. 

Violas. — Though not often grown in the greenhouse, 
violas would be a pleasing picture there for a change. 
For this purpose cuttings should be rooted in July or 
August and grown along three in a pot to flower in a 
5-inch or 6-inch pot. Keep them as cool as possible 
without actually being in a cold frame. 

Violets. — ^Violets are usually grown in frames, though 
they do remarkably well in pots. Split up the old plants 
when they have finished flowering in the spring and plant 
them in good, rich, deeply trenched soil, where they will 
get partial shade. Here they may remain until August, 
when the frame should be prepared for them. Put a load 
of heating material in the bottom, and after treading it 
firmly, cover with good rich soil, setting the plants about 
nine inches apart at such a height that the leaves nearly 
touch the glass. Keep the lights off on all warm days 



128 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

and allow plenty of air at all times, only excluding frost 
(by covering with mats or litter), so that the flowers are 
not spoiled nor the plants checked. Decayed leaves must 
be regularly picked off and the soil may be loosened. 
If growing healthily, give a dusting over the surface with 
Clay's fertiliser. The violets must be watered when they 
need it, choosing a bright sunny day for the work. 

Wallflowers. — If potted along during the autumn, 
wallflowers will give quite a nice lot of sweet-scented 
flowers during the early spring months before they 
would be available outside. I do not advise that all 
these subjects be grown in preference to what we might 
call real greenhouse plants, but they are, I think, well worth 
growing, as a change from the general run of plants. 
Each season it would be a good plan to grow a batch of 
two or three of the subjects named. It will surprise many 
to know how well these plants will grow under really 
good cultivation. 



CHAPTER XI 

OTHER WORTHY PLANTS FOR THE GREENHOUSE 

I HERE intend to give very brief notes on other greenhouse 
plants not already mentioned. The list I do not claim will 
be anything like complete, for I wish this to be a practical 
and popular rather than a botanical book, and I think my 
space can be better utilised by giving prominence to the 
plants that are likely to be grown and omitting those which 
are not essential to a beautiful greenhouse and which not 
one amateur in a thousand will be likely to grow. 

Before discussing these plants it may be well to say that, 
unless stated otherwise, ordinary potting soil made up of 
loam, leaf -soil and sand will suit these plants. As regards 
the temperature needed, " warm " will mean 60° to 70° ; 
" cool," 50° to 60°, and " cold," 40° to 50°. 

Abutilon. — Beautiful foliage plant, sometimes used in 
beds. Can be propagated by cuttings or seeds in the 
spring. Cool. 

Acacia. — ^Very pretty flowering plants, mostly yellow. 
Grow from cuttings taken off in summer or early autumn 
and struck under cold conditions. Cold house. Varieties, 
armata and pulchella. 

AcALYPHA MusAiCA. A pretty foliage plant useful 
for house or table. A. Sanderiana has green leaves but 
beautiful diobping tassel-like flowers, rendering it dis- 
tinctly ornamental. Increased by cuttings in warm 
propagator. Warm house plants. 

AcHiMENES. — Pretty flowering plants, doing well in 
I 129 



130 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

baskets. Start in spring, dry off after flowering. Eight 
or nine corms to 6-inch pot. Cool house. Well worth 
growing. 

Agapanthus. — Usually grown in tubs for standing 
outside during summer. May be grown in large pots. 
Keep free from frost, feed well, and divide the plant 
every fourth year by chopping or sawing them apart. 

Aloysia Citriodora. — Sometimes called lemon- 
scented verbena. Practically hardy, but sometimes 
grown in a cold house for mixing with cut flowers. 
Propagated by cuttings put in in spring or practically 
at any time. 

Allamanda, — ^A stove house climber with pretty yellow 
flowers. Sometimes grown as a bush plant. Propagated 
by spring cuttings. Being grown under warm conditions, 
is subject to attacks of mealy bug. 

Anthurium. — Stove plants belonging to same order as 
Calla lilies and having coloured flowers resembling them, 
but with ornamental and richly veined leaves. Relish 
a peaty soil and plenty of drainage. Propagated by 
division. The bright small-flowered and green-leaved 
A. scherzerianum is most commonly grown. 

Araucaria Excelsa. — A pretty pot plant for a vase 
in the house. Amateurs are advised to buy their plants, 
though cuttings may be taken from the top growth. 
Grow under cool conditions and be careful not to 
overpot it. 

Balsams. — Known to gardeners as impatiens. Sow 
seeds in warm house in spring and grow along under 
cool conditions. There are many pretty colours among 
them. 

BoRONiA. — Propagated — often with difftculty — from 
short growth in summer or autumn, and grown along 
in a somewhat peaty soil. 




Araucaria excelsa. One of the best room plants. It is 

VERY easily grown 



WORTHY PLANTS FOR GREENHOUSE 131 

BouGAiNViLLEA. — A beautiful climber. Will do well 
in greenhouse or conservatory, though usually grown in 
a stove. Propagated by cuttings in heat. Prune hard 
back in autumn. Feed established plants with liquid 
cow manure and top-dress each year with good loam. 
Useful for cutting. 

BouvARDiAS. — ^These are not now such general 
favourites as they used to be. They are propagated 
from cuttings which can usually be had in plenty during 
the spring from cut-back plants. A warm propagator 
will be needed, and the plants are best grown under cool 
conditions. Dry off for a time after flowering. 

Browallia.- — Showy annuals raised from seed which 
claim attention when well grown. Not often seen, how- 
ever, but could well be grown for a year by amateurs 
looking for something a little out of the common. 

Brugmansia. — See Datura. 

Cactus. — These can scarcely be recommended as plants 
easily grown and making a good display. Many may be 
propagated from cuttings, but some are grafted. Good 
loam made open with sand or road grit and sweet with 
charcoal will suit most kinds. 

Camellias. — Generally grown on a wall or as tub plants, 
and need little attention beyond sponging. Be careful 
about water, shift the plants as little as possible, but when 
making up soil let it be good turfy loam and fibrous peat 
with a liberal supply of charcoal. Syringe freely and thin 
out growths which crowd. 

Campanula. — Besides the chimney campanula already 
noted, I must recommend C. isophylla, which make a 
pretty plant in a basket or as an edging plant hanging 
over the side of the staging. Propagate by cuttings or 
division, and grow in cold house. 

Canna. — Besides being useful in beds, cannas make a 



132 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

fine display in the greenhouse, mainly for the sake of 
their beautiful flowers. Propagated by division or by 
seeds which, being extremely hard, should have an open- 
ing filed in them before sowing. Dry off after flowering 
and winter in a cold house. During growth they need 
cool treatment. 

Carex. — A very pretty grass used among flowers in 
the greenhouse. Propagated by division; 

Chorizema. — ^Will be liked by some, though not a very 
showy plant. Propagated by seeds and cuttings, and 
may be grown as dwarf plants or over wire shapes. 
Relishes a cold temperature. 

Clerodendron Fallax. — A beautiful plant requiring 
cool to warm treatment. It may be grown from seeds 
or from cuttings, and if kept free from mealy bug will 
develop into a showy plant of rich scarlet. C. Balfouri 
makes a beautiful display as a pillar plant in a warm 
house. A fair amount of peat should be used in the soil. 

Clivia. — Known also as Imantophyllum. A beautiful 
and easily grown plant for the cool greenhouse. It re- 
quires frequent sponging and plenty of liquid manure, 
but seldom requires potting. Quite large plants can be 
grown, and when well established they are very reliable 
and look well even when not in flower. Propagate by 
division. 

Crassula. — Known also as Kalosanthe. Rather a 
heavy plant which is not favoured in these days. Cut- 
tings taken off in spring and summer root very freely, 
and large plants may be grown by putting three or four 
in a pot and working them on to 8-inch pots. Cold 
house. 

Crinum. — ^A plant of a bulbous character, not very 
elegant in itself, but with a beautiful flower. It resents 
root disturbance but will benefit from an annual top- 



WORTHY PLANTS FOR GREENHOUSE 133 

dressing. Propagate by division and grow mostly in a 
cold house. 

Datura Suaveolens. — ^Does well in a cold greenhouse 
if fed liberally, and will produce an abundance of beautiful 
fragrant flowers which I have heard described as gramo- 
phone horns. The plant is grown pretty easily from 
cuttings. 

DiosMA Ericoides. — ^A pretty and fragrant plant 
resembling a boronia, but it can be rooted much more 
easily from cuttings. Useful for dotting along the edging 
of a cold house. 

Dieffenbachia. — ^A warm-house plant grown from 
cuttings for the beauty of its foliage. Cutting up the 
stem in the same manner as for dracsenas will produce 
young plants in a warm propagator. 

Dipladenia. — ^A stove climber with beautiful flowers ; 
suitable for growing up the roof of the house. Cuttings 
of young growth root very early. Plants should be 
potted or boxed with soil containing peat, charcoal and 
strong turfy loam. 

DiPLACUS Glutinosus. — Also useful for growing up 
the roof or the pillars of a cold house. Strike cuttings 
in the usual way, and if planted out give good lasting 
soil. 

Ericas. — ^Would become great favourites if they were 
better known and more easily grown. They require a 
peaty soil and great care in watering on account of their 
fine roots. Propagated from cuttings and grown in a cold 
house. 

EucHARis. — Splendid subjects if they can be kept free 
from the dreaded eucharis mite. They relish a warm, 
moist atmosphere with plenty of shade, a strong soil and, 
when freely growing, plenty of liquid manure. They are 
also frequently troubled with mealy bug and scale. 



134 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

When they become too large split up and repot ; or a far 
better plan is to split up one-third of the collection each 
year, 

EuLALiA. — ^A very pretty grass, useful for mixing 
with flowering plants, especially E. japonica variegata. 
Eulalia zebrina is worth growing. Splitting up the plants 
is most satisfactory. Cool house. 

EuPATORiUM. — Several of these are well worth growing 
in the greenhouse to flower in the spring. Ageratoides, 
riparium and petiolaris are recommended. Cuttings are 
easily procured when the plants are cut back after flower- 
ing. Cold-house treatment will suit them, and they do 
not mind being pot-bound if kept well watered. 

Euphorbia Pulcherrima. — Known better as Poin- 
settia. This has already been dealt with. Jacquiniseflora 
can be grown from cuttings with a heel, struck in a brisk 
heat, and grown along three in a pot in a warm 
temperature. 

FiTTONiA. — A small ornamental-leaved warm-house 
plant propagated by division. Useful for the front of a 
miscellaneous group. 

Francoa Ramosa or " Bridal Wreath." — ^A neglected 
plant which, though bearing rough treatment, merits 
much better. Cold-house treatment and propagation 
from cuttings. Keep on the dry side. 

Gardenia. — ^A flowering plant well worth growing on 
account of its beautiful fragrance and its use for the 
buttonhole. It has the reputation of being a dirty plant 
on account of its being so subject to mealy bug. To keep 
the stock young, cutting should be put in during autumn 
or spring. Warm house. 

Gladiolus Colvillei Vars. — Bride, Blushing Bride 
and Peach Bloom are more often found in greenhouse than 
garden. Buy fresh bulbs, pot up in autumn, introduce 




LaCHENALIA tricolor — A VERY PRETTY PLANT FOR BASKETS 
OR POTS 



WORTHY PLANTS FOR GREENHOUSE 135 

to cool greenhouse in December and flower in May and 
June. 

Gloriosa. — Pretty climber for the warm house. Pro- 
pagated from offsets. Prefers a peaty soil. 

Habrothamnus. — ^A cool-house climber propagated 
from cuttings. 

Hedychium. — Grown in same way as cannas by 
division of roots. Dry off after flowering. 

HuMEA Elegans. — Often used as a dot plant outside. 
It has a graceful grassy flower. Sow in summer and 
prick off, keeping young plants on dry side during winter 
and free from aphides. They are sometimes difficult 
plants to do well. 

Ipomea. — ^A beautiful climber of the convolvulus family 
which does well on a greenhouse pillar. Sow seeds, 
prick off, pot on and train up the pillar. 

IsoLEPSis Gracillis. — ^A pretty grass, used often as an 
edging to a staging. It may be used in a warm or a 
cold house. Propagate by division of old clumps. It 
likes plenty of water. 

IxiAS. — Pretty bulbs giving a variety of colours. 
Grow from offsets and keep in a frame as long as possible. 
Like other bulbs, they require drying off. 

Ixora. — A warm-house plant valued alike for its 
flowers and foliage. Propagated by cuttings put in a 
brisk bottom heat. 

Lachenalia. — ^A very pretty subject for a basket as 
well as for pots. Pot up bulbs in autumn and grow along 
under cool conditions. Leaves are distinctly pretty. 
Offsets form in abundance and may be grown on to 
form flowering bulbs. 

Lantana. — Grown much in the same way as heliotrope 
by cuttings rooted in autumn and spring and from plants 
cut back. Grows well in a cold house. 



136 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Lapageria. — A beautiful greenhouse climber giving 
pretty bell-shaped flowers in red or white. They are 
best grown in a small made-up border. Plants may be 
bought, or propagated by layering. Cold conditions are 
most suitable. 

LiLiUMS. — In some respects these are forcing subjects, 
but as I did not deal with them specifically then I may 
spare a few words here. Most of the kinds used for pot 
work are potted up in autumn. The bulbs (three or four 
in a pot) are just covered in a soil made up of loam, peat, 
leaf -soil and sand. Top-dressing will be needed, so at first 
the bulbs should be set half-way down the pots (8-inch 
and g-inch size). Grow coldly those intended for autumn 
and force in a humid atmosphere those for spring flower- 
ing. Plant in the garden after flowering. Auratum, 
longiflorum, speciosum and Harrisii are the more gener- 
ally grown. 

Mimosa Pudica. — ^This, known as the " sensitive 
plant," is grown on account of its curiosity, the leaves 
drooping whenever they are touched. Sow seeds in heat 
but later cooler quarters will do. 

MoscHOSMA RiPARiUM. — ^With flower somewhat resem- 
bling a spiraea ; is grown from cuttings inserted in spring 
and needs cool treatment. Though recently introduced, 
it is not destined to become a great favourite. 

Musk. — An old-fashioned plant which deserves to be 
grown other than in the cottage windows. Grown from 
seed and in cold house. 

Nerine. — A beautiful bulbous plant, increased from 
division but resenting interference. Hence should be 
divided only once in four years. Rest after growth is 
completed and water freely with liquid manure. Cool 
temperature. 

N^GELIA. — Grown in the same way as gesnera. 




A FINE EXAMPLE OF LiLIUM SPECIOSUM ROSEUM 



WORTHY PLANTS FOR GREENHOUSE 137 

Nerium (Oleander). — A plant often met with but 
seldom grown well. Grown from cuttings. Cool 
temperature. 

Oleander. — See above. 

Oncidium. — ^A fairly popular orchid, most of them need- 
ing a cool to warm temperature. See notes on Orchids. 
Varieties : Forbesi, papilio, sarcodes and varicosum. 

Orange Trees. — These are seldom grown by small 
owners. Once established they require nothing beyond 
protecting from frost, watering carefully and frequently 
sponging. 

Pancratium. — A beautiful, fragrant warm-house plant 
grown on similar lines to the eucharis, which it resembles. 
Propagated from offsets. When well established requires 
plenty of water. 

Pandanus. — A graceful variegated foliage plant of the 
pine family. Increased from offsets, which should not be 
detached until they have a few roots. Useful as a table 
or room plant. Warm house. 

Panicum. — A pretty little foliage plant often used as 
an edging to the staging. Very easily propagated from 
cuttings, which should be done frequently. Warm 
house. 

Peperomia. — A pretty little variegated dot plant for 
the warm house. Propagated from cuttings. 

Plumbago Rosea. — Usually grown under warm con- 
ditions to produce flowers for table and room decoration. 
Root cuttings in a brisk bottom heat. P. capensis may 
be grown as a greenhouse climber or as a tub plant and 
be cut back before breaking into growth. It is very 
pretty and is often employed in the garden. 

Pteris. — See Ferns. 

Saintpaulia. — A pretty little plant with violet-like 
flowers, often used as a dot plant in the warm house. 



138 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Can be propagated by leaves cut off and put in any moist, 
open material in a warm propagator. 

SiBTHORPiA EuROPEA. — A pretty little evergreen 
creeper, useful for edging the staging or covering the 
floor in either warm or cold house. Easily propagated 
by division. Requires renewing occasionally. Does well 
also in a window as a hanging plant or for covering the 
soil of plants in tubs, boxes or large pots. 

Smilax. — Best grown from seeds and trained up 
straight pieces of cotton or thread, one piece of smilax 
to each thread. Most useful for table decoration. It 
may be had with small or large leaves. 

SoLANUM Capsicastrum. — An ornamental plant grown 
for the beauty of its berries. May be propagated from 
seeds and grown along three in a pot. Must not be 
allowed to flag. 

Sparmannia Africana. — A cool-house plant propa- 
gated from cuttings. Very easily grown but only orna- 
mental when grown well. 

Stephanotis. — A very fragrant climber for the warm 
greenhouse. Is often a prey to mealy bug. Propagate 
in brisk heat from cuttings in spring. 

SwAiNSONiA. — Can be very effectively used for clothing 
the rafters of a greenhouse. Grow in a cool house and 
propagate from cuttings. Sometimes used for flowering 
outside. 

ToRENiA. — A pretty plant for the cool house, grown 
from seeds or cuttings. 

Trachelium Cceruleum. — Well worth growing 
under cold conditions. It can easily be grown 
from seeds sown early in the year. Flowers are very 
graceful. 

Tradescantia. — Often used as an edging plant, a 
basket plant, or for growing on a mossed wall or beneath 



WORTHY PLANTS FOR GREENHOUSE 139 

the staging. Grows easily from cuttings, put in at any 
time. 

Tuberose. — ^A very sweet-smelling flower grown from 
bulbs potted up in the autumn and worked through the 
greenhouse in batches. Often badly affected with red 
spider. Bulbs are usually thrown away after flowering. 

Vallota (Scarborough Lily). — A bulbous plant 
well worth growing but dislikes much soil disturbance. 
Break up only every second or third year. Soil such 
as advised for hippeartrum will suit these well. 



CHAPTER XII 

plants for various purposes 

Climbing Plants 

A LIST of these suitable for the greenhouse would be very 
extensive if I were to name all, but I think the purpose of 
this book is best served by giving only those which the 
amateur is most likely to be successful with. It must be 
remarked that climbers on a wall or on pillars are distinctly 
ornamental if not overdone. Certainly they can be over- 
done on the roof, especially if the house be used for growing 
plants as well as for showing them, as they naturally give 
a large amount of shade. Wherever they are grown some 
good soil should be made up for them, as it is usual to leave 
them undisturbed for several years. Whether the plants 
be grown in a border on the floor-level, or in a brick en- 
closure brought level with the staging, or in pots, the same 
class of soil will suit them. Good fibrous turfy loam should 
form the base, and to this may be added leaf -soil, preferably 
from oak leaves, mortar rubble, wood ashes and charcoal. 
This will tend to keep the soil sweet. At the time of 
making up, some well-rotted manure should be put in, and 
as this becomes exhausted the plant will have to be fed by 
means of liquid manure and top-dressing. If climbers in 
the greenhouse are to be successful it is important that they 
be kept clean by frequent syringing and, where they need 
it, by sponging of the leaves. 

The plants which I recommend as being good doers are : 

140 



PLANTS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES 141 

acacia, allamanda, Asparagus plumosus, begonia (climb- 
ing sorts, of course), bougainvillea, brugmansia (or datura), 
camellia, clerodendron, diplacus, dipladenia, Ficus repens, 
fuchsia, geraniums, habrothamnus, heliotrope, hoya, 
ipomea, lapageria, passion flower, plumbago (capensis 
and rosea), rose, smilax, stephanotis, streptosolen, 
swainsonia and tradescantia. 

A very pretty wall feature may be made by clothing a 
wall with ferns. This is by no means a difficult matter. 
Some half or three-quarter inch wire netting is tacked 
up about three inches from the wall, and in the space thus 
made peat loam and charcoal are put in firmly, and in this 
the little ferns and other plants are set. It will be neces- 
sary to give it a thorough watering after planting, and 
frequent syringings at other times. The easiest method 
of making this feature is to fill in the space as the wire 
netting is being put on, putting soil at the bottom first 
and working upwards. Such plants as the commoner 
of the small ferns, selaginella. Rex begonias, fittonias, 
peperomeas, tradescantia, panicum, are admirably suited 
for this method of covering a wall. 



Some Plants for Edging 

Practically any dwarf plant will do for edging a group of 
plants in the greenhouse. If there be a staging it will look 
better to have a hanging plant, such as Isolepsis gracillis, 
Nepeta gleckoma, panicum or selaginella. Little plants 
such as Saintpaulia ionantha, Caladium argyrites, Nertera 
depressa, pilea, musk and small ferns also look decidedly 
well at the edge of the staging or the foot of a group. I 
think it, in fact, preferable to a formal edging that these 
dwarf plants be dotted along the front. 



142 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



Beneath the Staging 

Most greenhouse owners will at some time glance be- 
neath the stagings and bewail the waste of space there. 

But it need not be 
wasted, for it can 
be beautified with 
suitable plants or 
put to a useful 
purpose for drying 
off plants, etc. 
Unless the owner 
is a skilful plant 
grower, I would 
not advise him to 
try to use it at 
any time for 
flowering plants. 
Those who know 
their plants well, 
and know to a 
nicety how much 
rough treatment a 
plant will stand, 
may make use of 
the space with ad- 
vantage at times 
of pressure, but it 
is not a practice 
which can be commended. Besides there being much 
shade in such a position there is the constant drip from 
the staging above. When plants are dried off in that 
position the pots should be laid on their sides. Trade- 




Z'zar^awz 28.— Using space beneath staging; 1. Or- 
namental rockwork. 2. For drying off pot plants. 
3. For ferns. 4. For starting bulbs. 



PLANTS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES 143 

scantia, helxina, selaginella, the commoner maidenhair 
ferns, and some small coleuses will do fairly well in 
this position. If a few stones are set in the form of a 
rocky mound in this position and the spaces between the 
stones planted it will give a very pleasing effect. 



Hanging Baskets 

It is scarcely possible to have a greenhouse properly 
bedecked with flowers without hanging baskets. There are, 
perhaps, climbers on the roof, and these hanging baskets 
form a connecting link between the canopy of flowers 
above and the forest of flowers below. There are many 
plants naturally endowed with that pendulous habit which 
is well-nigh essential to suitability as a basket plant. 
Among them we may name ivy-leaved pelargonium, 
heliotrope, lachenalia, ferns in great variety. Asparagus 
sprengeri, achimenes, begonias, fuchsias, coelogynes, 
Campanula isophylla, schizanthuses, streptosolen and 
tradescantia. Several plants should be clumped together 
for the purpose of forming a full basket. The baskets, 
preferably of wire, should be well lined with sphagnum 
moss and fibrous peat before the plants or bulbs are put in. 
By tying the trailing shoots in place and turning the 
baskets occasionally it will be possible to cover the wire 
quickly. A too formal appearance should be avoided. 
In other respects the culture does not differ from that of 
pot plants. 

Too often the difficulty of watering is made an excuse 
for neglecting the plants. The baskets, which in most cases 
will be set over the pathway, must, of course, be set suffi- 
ciently high to render walking beneath them comfortable, 
and unless some special arrangement be adopted steps will 
have to be used to reach them. But usually with a slight 



144 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

exercise of ingenuity it will be possible to hang them by 
strong sash cord running over a pulley so that they may 
be let down to a convenient height for watering and 
secured there until watering is done, when they may be 
again pulled up. 

The Greenhouse in Winter 

In the dull days when the outside garden is cheerless we 
want the greenhouse to look gay. At such a time bright, 
warm colours have a decided charm. We find these well 
illustrated in the deservedly popular begonia, Gloire de 
Lorraine, in Poinsettia pulcherrima and its modest relative. 
Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora, in the grace of that most useful 
orchid, Calanthe Veitchii, and in the dignified clivia, as 
we must now call our old friend the imantophyllum. The 
colours lending warmth and brightness are also found in 
cyclamen, primulas (stellata and obconica), in the zonal 
pelargonium, the winter-flowering stocks, and in forced 
batches of hyacinths and tulips. Chrysanthemums will 
brighten the house till well-nigh the end of January, when 
their place will be taken by forced plants, and this brings 
us to the 

Greenhouse in Spring 

Azaleas, lilacs, spiraeas, deutzias, dielytras and the 
many varieties of hyacinths, tulips, narcissi and jonquils. 
Lilies of the valley may now be had at any time of the year 
from retarded crowns, but by forcing natural crowns under 
cooler conditions we get better results at this time. To 
these we may add arums, Coleus thyrsoideus, schizan- 
thuses, eupatoriums, cinerarias, Clarkias, cytisus, stocks, 
spiraeas, deutzias and lachenalias. 




Lachenalia penaula. a splendid plant for making up a 
well-flowered basket 



PLANTS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES 145 

In Summer 

At this season we do not want so rich a display, as there 
are now so many flowering plants outside. The most 
suitable subjects for use in the summer greenhouse are 
begonias, gloxinias, pelargoniums, geraniums, Trachelium 
coeruleum, cannas, lobelia, Canterbury bells, celosias, 
browallias, heliotrope, fuchsias, Clerodendron fallax, cam- 
panulas, hydrangeas, border carnations and Malmaisons. 
Surely with such a list as this the summer greenhouse 
may be gay. 

In Autumn 

The difficulty of securing a display is not great, for we 
still have a nice lot of coleuses, and there will be also ivy- 
leaved geraniums, early chrysanthemums, salvias (blue 
and scarlet), streptosolen, and many of the plants just 
mentioned as being useful during the summer months. 



CHAPTER XIII 

FORWARDING BEDDING PLANTS IN THE GREENHOUSE 

Those who possess a greenhouse and frames have a great 
advantage over others in beautifying their front beds and 
borders in the summer months. There are so many plants 
which can be most successfully raised under glass and be 
afterwards planted out that to deal separately with each 
would take up an unwarrantable amount of space. 
Happily they undergo very much the same treatment, 
and may thus be conveniently grouped together. Thus 
we have those which are raised from cuttings or from 
seeds in the autumn ; those which are much tenderer 
and are raised from cuttings in autumn and spring, and 
those which are raised from seeds sown under glass in 
the spring. 

Among the first section we might mention sweet-peas, 
pentstemons, antirrhinums, violas, calceolarias and 
marguerites. These may be grown entirely in a cold frame. 
Sweet-peas will be best sown in boxes or pots. I prefer 
boxes myself, but probably pots will be found most useful 
for small growers. The seeds are sown in these in the 
usual way and put into a cold frame. Except for a week 
or so after being put there they are kept uncovered as 
much as possible, the only time the lights are put on being 
when it is raining or when frosty ; for although sweet- 
peas will withstand frost, yet it is not a good plan to allow 
them to be subjected to it. Scarcely any water will be 
needed during the winter months. The other plants men- 

146 



BEDDING PLANTS IN GREENHOUSE 147 




tioned in this category are rooted from cuttings put in 
during the autumn. A frame should be prepared by 
putting a layer of leaves in the bottom and covering with 
three or four inches of finely sifted sandy soil pressed quite 
firmly. The soil should then be covered with sand and 
the frame will be 
ready for putting 
the cuttings in. 
These may be pre- ^ 
pared in the usual 
way and inserted 
in lines at a dis- 
tance of two or 
three inches apart. 
It will be necessary 
to provide other 
covering than the .2 
light during severe 
weather, and if it 
should be found 
that the soil has 
frozen the young 
plants may often 
be saved by keep- 
ing them covered 
until they have 
thawed. In the 
spring the soil 
should be loosened 
about these young 
plants, and by free ventilation and careful watering they 
should be encouraged to grow. They may be planted out 
in April and early May, or may follow after the spring 
plants have been got off. By growing plants in this way 





Diagram 29. — Growing Heliotropes and Ivy- 
leaved Geraniums into tall plants : i. Cutting of 
heliotrope, 2. Box of cuttings. 3. A standard 
heliotrope. 4. Cuttings of " ivies " — three in a pot. 
5. Tall columnar plant of ivj'-leaved geranium. 




148 THE GARDEN UNDER 



we do away with a lot of congestion in the greenhouse 
during the spring months. 

The other class of plants alluded to are tender subjects 
such as geraniums both zonal and ivy-leaved, heliotrope, 
lobelia, ageratum, fuchsias, and such as need to have 
cuttings taken of them either in autumn or spring. 
Geraniums are best rooted early in the autumn in a cold 
frame and brought into a warmer structure when the 
frames have been found too cold. They should be potted 
separately in 3-inch pots in February. The other subjects 
are rooted from cuttings taken in the autumn to supply 
stock, the main batch of cuttings being taken in February 
and March. Lobelia may be left in boxes, but heliotrope 
pays for potting up separately in pots. A warm propagator 
is required for rooting these cuttings in the spring. 

Yet another class of plants for bedding are raised from 
seeds sown early in the year. These are stocks, asters, 
antirrhinums, nicotiana, salpiglossis, alyssum and such 
subj ects which, while being easily raised from seeds to flower 
during the summer, are able to be transplanted from boxes. 
Often it pays to work the plants along in pots, but it takes 
up a considerable amount of space and also of time. 
Certainly stocks grown in pots for planting out give 
splendid results. I have had as many as sixty-three 
flower-spikes at one time on an East Lothian stock grown 
along in a 5-inch pot and planted out. Seeds of all these 
plants should be sown thinly in a warm house, and the 
young plants should be pricked off before they become 
crowded. The notes on this subject, as well as on hardening 
off, to be found in the section devoted to Greenhouse Work, 
will bear perusal in connection with this subject. 

Annuals are also raised in lines in a frame over a very 
mild hotbed, and are thus kept out of the greenhouse. It 
may here be said that the making up of a hotbed frame 



BEDDING PLANTS IN GREENHOUSE 149 

will afford a good opportunity for raising seeds and cuttings 
and thus the greenhouse space will not be so severely 
burdened. Even in these days, when hardy plants have 
gained the ascendancy, the grower who has a greenhouse 
has a considerable advantage in stocking his flower garden. 
Hollyhocks, border carnations, border chrysanthemums, 
dahlias, salvias, begonias and many similar subjects are 
brought along in the greenhouse to be hardened off and 
planted outside. Up to that time they are grown on 
practically the same lines as advised for their inside culture. 
Dahlias are not usually started inside unless it is desired 
to take cuttings of them. 



PART III 

FRUIT UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XIV 

AN EPITOME OF VINE CULTURE 

I CAN, of course, give merely the outline of so large a subject, 
but I will endeavour to compress into this as much practical 
information as possible. It is not an easy matter to put 
into a few pages what one considers to be the important 
points regarding the propagation, pruning, starting and 
training of a vine, as well as remarks on thinning, storing, 
top-dressing, making the border, watering and ventila- 
tion. We can, however, make an attempt with the fixed 
intention of being successful. 

Propagating the Grape Vine 

The vine is very easily propagated from " eyes." This 
means that a piece of dormant wood is chosen at the time 
of pruning and from this is cut a sound bud ; about three- 
quarters of an inch of wood is left on each side of the bud, 
and this is put into some sandy soil in a close propagator 
having a brisk bottom heat. In the ordinary way it will 
not be long before roots are thrown out and the growth also 
starts. The young vine may then be removed from the 
propagator but still be kept under close observation, until 
it has filled the pot with roots. It is usual then to work 
it along under similar atmospheric conditions to that ad- 
vised for vines in full growth . In due course it will grow and 
require potting on in good strong compost in several pots 
until a g-inch or lo-inch is reached. Let it be distinctly 

153 



154 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



understood that it is very unwise to put a young plant into 
a border before it has made a good mass of roots. Even 
in the best made border under the best possible conditions 
this would be too uncertain a method for good growers to 
adopt. It is scarcely likely that the young plant will get 
further than a 7-inch pot the first year, but it can be potted 
into a larger size the next year. When the plant becomes 







Diagram 30. — i. Vine eye or bud prepared for putting in pot as at Fig. 2, 
3. Pot vine to be planted. 4. Roots washed and spread out. 

of sufficient size for planting it should be shaken from the 
pot and be held in a tub of water to moisten thoroughly the 
old ball and get away the soil. Every particle of soil should 
be carefully washed away, so that when planted the roots 
may be spread out to their utmost limit. Thus far the 
beginning of the vine, but I would strongly urge every 
amateur to pay a few shillings for a pot vine grown by a 
specialist. He will by this means have a fair start, which 



AN EPITOME OF VINE CULTURE 155 

he probably would not if he had. never propagated a vine 
before. 

The Vine Border 

Considering that under skilful treatment a vine should 
flourish for a great many years, it is all-important that it 
should have a good border made up for it. Now without 
arguing the perennial question as to the value of inside and 
outside borders I will only say that I will advise only an 
inside border. If the subsoil be of a retentive clay I would 
certainly advocate a concrete bottom, with a slight fall to a 
line of drain-pipes. The making of a concrete bottom is a 
task which any intelligent man may undertake. Excavate 
the soil to the requisite depth, say two and a half to three 
feet, and slope the ground sufficiently to take away the 
water to the drains. Then a layer of brick rubble may be 
put on and covered with ashes. Over this the concrete 
may be put. A barrowful will do several yards. Good 
concrete can be made by mixing four barrowloads of clean 
gravel with one bag of cement, turning it over well while 
dry and again when wet. Only a few days will be needed 
for it to set sufficiently. Some drainage material may 
then be put on and be covered with clean straw. Fresh 
turves are laid over this and the compost for the border 
is then put in. 

This compost may consist of freshly cut fibrous turf or 
loam, mortar rubble and half -inch bones. If the best 
possible border is to be made I would advise the use of 
loam procured from Kettering, Walton Heath, Banstead, 
or Cranleigh, but usually some of a sufficiently good fibre 
can be obtained locally. This should be chopped up into 
fairly large pieces, for it is really the fibre we need. If a 
vinery is to be planted I would advise that only a part of 
it be done at a time, say four feet the first year and two 



156 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

feet each year afterwards until the make-up of the border 
is completed. A border made up on these lines should, 
with the usual top-dressing each year, last for a consider- 
able number of years. Watering with liquid manure may 
be done after the berries have stoned. 



Starting a Vinery or Vine 

Usually the beginning of February will be quite time 
enough to start a vinery, unless very early grapes are 
desired. Started in February, grapes should be nicely 
ripe from such vines by the end of July. 

The main points in starting a vine into growth are 
to make sure that it is well watered, that the house is 
washed, the vines cleaned and the border top-dressed. 
To ensure cleanliness the whole structure will need to be 
well washed with hot soapy water. When this has been 
done the walls will need whitewashing, and the border 
may be top-dressed with loam, mortar rubble and a fair 
sprinkling of a good chemical manure such as " Le 
Fruitier." It will generally be found necessary to take 
off an inch or two of the old soil and wheel it into the 
kitchen garden. When the roots are reached the top- 
dressing may be put on — the object being to entice the 
roots to the surface. The vine itself had better be washed 
with " Gishurst Compound," but this, like all other in- 
secticides, should be kept clear of the buds. Scraping the 
bark of the vine is a practice which can only be encouraged 
when there has been an attack of mealy bug. 

Before putting heat into the house it is best to keep it 
fairly close for a week or two. After this a temperature 
of 45° to 50° should be maintained at night, with a corre- 
sponding increase from sun-heat during the day. Syringing 
of the vines is advised each day at about nine a.m. and 



AN EPITOME OF VINE CULTURE 157 

two P.M., at which latter time the structure should be 
closed to keep in as much sun-heat as possible. For young 
vines, or those started into growth quite early, it is usual 
to tie the rods down horizontally along the house in order 
that the lower buds will start into growth at the same 
time as those at the top, which is found not to be the case 
unless this precaution is taken. 

Training a Vine 

To beginners there always seems to be some great 
mystery in the training of a vine. "When I was in my teens 
I had just that feeling, but with a little knowledge it is 
very soon dispersed. Perhaps I had better begin with the 
autumn work of pruning, which is really the first beginning 
to put the vine in the way of starting in the spring. This 
is really a very simple matter. Every side growth or 
lateral is cut hard back to within two buds of its base. 
Only one growth will be required in most cases, but it is 
well to leave two buds, so that if one fails we can rely on 
the other. It is far better to use a knife than secateurs 
for pruning, as the latter has a tendency to split the growth. 

Now in the spring both these buds will probably produce 
a growth, but as only one will be required the less desirable 
one should be rubbed out when about two inches long, 
giving the growth nearest the rod the preference of re- 
maining if there is not much difference between them. 
When the growths are about three inches long the vine 
rods should be tied permanently in place, and we are at 
once confronted with the work of 

Tying and Disbudding 

It must not be overlooked that the young growths are 
very brittle, and if not carefully handled when tying them 



158 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

down they will snap off either half-way along the growth 
or at the junction with the rod. To do the work well they 
should be eased down gradually until the growth can be 
securely attached to the wire. This may necessitate tying 
two or three times. One or at most two shoots should be 




Diagram 31. — i. Vine border : a, concrete ; b, rubble for drainage ; c, layer 
of clean straw ; d, layer of inverted turves ; e, compost ; f, drain pipe. 2. Vine 
growths — cutting out the weaker (li). 3. Stopping growth two leaves beyond the 
bunch {k). 4. Tying vine, first time /, second time m, finally «. 

selected from each spur, and in the selection the growth 
which shows the best bunch, the healthiest appearance 
and the best position, should have the preference. Growths 
which are badly placed, are devoid of a bunch, weak in 
growth or flat in the stem should by no means be retained. 
After tying it is advisable to syringe for some time vdth 
less force, for if the growths are brought down rather tightly 



AN EPITOME OF VINE CULTURE 159 

there is always a danger of their snapping with forcible 
syringing. 

Syringing and Damping 

From the time of starting the vine until flowering, 
syringing and damping of the border and walk with a 
rosed can should take place twice daUy and the vines 
should be syringed from both sides and along their whole 
length. The ventilators should be closed shortly after 
two in the afternoon. A temperature of 45° to 50° at 
night, with a slight rise in the daytime, will be sufficient 
heat for some time. Sudden fluctuations of temperature 
must be sedulously avoided. 

Stopping the Growths 

When the young shoots of the vine have been tied down 
the question of stopping will arise. Each growth should 
be stopped at the second leaf beyond the bunch, and the 
laterals and sub-laterals which afterwards arise will need 
to be pinched back to their first leaf. The leading growth 
on the vine might with advantage be left to grow un- 
disturbed. This will tend to stimulate root action. Until 
the vines flower the damping and syringing should be 
done twice daily except on dull, cold days, when a light- 
damping only will be needed. From the time the vines 
start to flower all syringing should be stopped, and except 
in the case of a severe attack of red-spider, no further 
syringing will be necessary throughout the season. To 
ensure free setting of the flowers a drier atmosphere must 
be aimed at by damping only once a day, and that at noon, 
by leaving a chink of air on the top ventilator all night, and 
by the use of a little more fire-heat during dull days. As 
a further means of ensuring success it is well to go over the 



i6o THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

rods at noon each day and to give each a sharp rap to 
disperse the pollen or to go over each bunch with a rabbit's 
tail tied to a stick, gently brushing each one. This latter 
course will only be necessary in the case of shy-setting 
varieties, notable among which is the Muscat of Alexandria. 

Thinning the Bunches and Berries 

Once the flowering period has passed the damping two 
or three times a day should be resumed, and in a compara- 





Diagram 32. — Grape Thinning : i. Bunch unthinned. 2. Thinned bunch. 
3. Unthinned shoulder. 4. Thinned shoulder. 

tively short time the bunches and berries will have so far 
developed as to necessitate thinning. As to the number 
of bunches to allow to a rod, that will depend a great deal 
on the age, strength and length of the rod, and the size 
of bunch required. A fully established vine with a rod 
twelve to fourteen feet long could well carry twenty very 



AN EPITOME OF VINE CULTURE i6i 

decent bunches, and this may be taken as a guide. 
Having decided on the number of bunches to be left, 
the others may be cut out, but in the selection due 
regard should be paid to the position, the size, the shape 
and the fullness of the bunch as well as respect for the 
balance of the vine by having the bunches evenly 
distributed. 

Unless the bunches are thinned the berries become small 
and packed closely together, with the result that they hold 
more moisture and are very liable to damp. Besides 
which the bunches are not so fine and the proportion of 
stone to fruit pulp is much larger. Grapes inside must 
certainly be thinned, though it is tedious work. Early 
morning and evening are the best times, because, being 
cooler, more work can be done in greater comfort. Con- 
siderable practice is needed to be able to thin grapes 
expeditiously and well. Primarily the leaving of the best 
bunches as described above has much to do with the after- 
appearance of the crop. Having made the selection, the 
shoulders of the bunch should be tied out with raffia grass 
and the thinning may then be undertaken. All small 
seedless berries should be cut out as well as those which 
grow inwards. Beyond that the best -placed berries 
should be retained, and in the case of the shoulders as well 
as the main bunch it is better to retain the point berries. 
If the berries stand out clear, so that no two are nigher than 
half-an-inch to one another, the bunch may be considered 
well thinned. All the little berries or flower stalks which 
have not set must be cut out, and in doing so care must be 
taken not to injure the berries which are to be left, with the 
points of the scissors. Special scissors are used for the 
purpose, and it is essential that they cut well at the points. 
A little monkey soap will be found useful for cleaning them 
occasionally. 



i62 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



Stoning and Colouring 

After the bunches have been thinned they will swell 
rapidly for a few weeks and will then remain at a standstill 
for some time, during which the stoning takes place. At 
the time of flowering, of stoning and of colouring it is 
inadvisable to defoliate the vines greatly, or it will cause 
an undue flow of sap to the bunches. As the summer 
advances more air will be needed from both top and bottom 
ventilators and closing the house may be delayed until 
four o'clock. 

Once the first tinge of colour is seen a little air may be 
left on at nights, and as the colour deepens so may the 
amount of air be increased. At this period also the amount 
of moisture in the atmosphere will need to be diminished 
by damping less frequently until it becomes totally un- 
necessary. On no account must the vines suffer from lack 
of water at the roots, but it is unwise to flood them with 
water during flowering, stoning and colouring. 

Ventilating a Vinery 

For the purpose of greater clearness I may perhaps spare 
a few special words on ventilation, which requires a certain 
amount of experience, and in April a considerable amount 
of patience. 

A start must be made at the time when the house is 
closed for the purpose of causing the vines to break into 
growth. For beginners it is better that the thermometer 
be taken as a guide. With experience the smell of a house 
will suggest to the grower the need of air. The starting 
temperature of a vinery has been shown to be 45° to 50°. In 
the daytime a spell of sunshine may raise the temperature, 



AN EPITOME OF VINE CULTURE 163 

and as this advances towards 60° the top ventilators may 
be sHghtly opened, so as to keep the heat between 55° and 
60°. Whenever the weather clouds over the ventilators 
must be closed, and be reopened at the outbreak of sun- 
shine. This may occasion a good deal of nmning about, 
but if good grapes are to be grown it is the only way. The 
reason, of course, is that fluctuations of temperature must 
be avoided as causing checks, and thus being inimical to 
good growth. In the early stages of growth no front air 
must be admitted until the leaves have well expanded, nor 
should the house be left open during the night. As the sun 
begins to wane during the afternoon the house must be 
syringed and shut up in order to bottle up the sun-heat, 
which is always to be preferred to that caused by a fire. 
It may happen, of course, that on dull days no ventila- 
tion will be needed. 

As the season advances and the vines grow more 
ventilation will be needed, the time of opening the lights 
will be earlier, and of closing them later. In the height 
of the season air may have to be admitted at six a.m., but 
it will always be safe to close by five p.m. Front air is usually 
regarded as supplementary to top ventilation, and besides 
being put on later is also taken off earlier. When ripening 
is completed a full supply of air is essential. When the 
fruit has been cut off all possible air may be admitted, and 
unless there are other plants in the house there is no need 
to keep out the frost, although a slight circulation of heat 
must at such times be run through the hot-water pipes to 
keep them from freezing and bursting. 

Storing Grapes in Bottles 

Few amateurs probably grow so many grapes that they 
have to store them. But it may happen that they want 



i64 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

to get them cut from the rod. This may be made con- 
venient by storing them in bottles . Ordinary wine bottles 
will serve the purpose, though they are certainly not the 
best. A flat, square bottle turned up at the mouth and pro- 
vided with a place for refilling has been largely in use of 
late years. It was patented by Mr Bullock, head gardener 
at Copped Hall, Essex. By its use there is not the same 
likelihood of the grapes getting wet during the operation of 
bottling and refilling. The grapes should be cut with 
quite six inches of the old wood attached. The end of the 
wood should be inserted in the bottle of water, and so 
arranged that the bunches themselves hang clear of every- 
thing. If ordinary wine bottles are used they should be 
so arranged that they are steadily fixed in a slanting 
manner to enable the bunches to stand clear. It will be 
necessary to look to the bottles occasionally to see that 
they are well supplied with water. In this way in a cool, 
dry, frost-proof place grapes will last for many months. 

The Amateur's Vine 

No variety of the grape vine has so richly deserved this 
title as Black Hamburgh. It is the easiest grape to 
grow and has a very pleasant flavour. Other varieties 
which amateurs might grow are Black Alicanti for late 
use, or Lady Down, Madresfield Court and Muscat of 
Alexandria. This latter is one which needs skilled atten- 
tion but its flavour is so unique that I certainly advise 
everyone to try it. 

Where the amateur has but one vine in a greenhouse he 
should give it the best treatment that circumstances will 
allow. He should enclose a part of the floor to form a 
border and build up a good one when he starts. Unless 
he has the border under complete control he labours in 



AN EPITOME OF VINE CULTURE 165 

vain who tries to secure good grapes. In a case of this 
kind no attempt should be made to force the vine. It may 
be allowed to start naturally and will then grow along under 
natural conditions, but it is preferable to give it some 
consideration above the ordinary stock of plants in the 
greenhouse, and to regard its needs in such matters as 
ventilation before that of other plants which are not 
so valuable. 

It remains to be said that when planting a vine from a 
pot all the soil — every particle — ^should be washed away 
from the roots in a tub of water, and then, when planting, 
they should be carefully spread out in all directions, each 
at the proper level. To plant straight from a pot as 
one might a geranium is a very careless method which 
cannot be countenanced. 



CHAPTER XV 

PEACHES AND NECTARINES 

In cold districts it is very difficult to grow good peaches 
outside, especially now when the condition or disease, 
whichever it may be, known as " silver leaf " is so prevalent. 
In any case the trees, being under perfect control, can be 
got to yield very satisfactory crops inside, year after year. 
It is but natural to expect that those who go to the expense 
of building a glass structure for these trees will not con- 
sider it waste of time and money to make up a good border 
and from the outset buy good young trees true to name 
from some good fruit grower. 

To ensure success I would advise that a border be made 
for peaches on similar lines to that advised for vines. It 
goes without saying that if drainage of the subsoil be 
needed this should be undertaken. It would be the height 
of folly to plant a peach-tree in soil where for any part of 
the year the water remained stagnant. If the soil be of a 
heavy plastic clay I would certainly advise concreting the 
bottom. If the whole site of the border be not concreted 
at least an area of three feet radius all round the tree could 
be done. This would effectively check any tap-roots, while 
the others on the outer part of the concrete could be cut 
off when found to be too strong or enticed to the surface 
before they become gross and fibreless. 

There is nothing to equal good turfy loam for fruit-trees 
generally, and on top of the drainage flags of this should 
be set grass side downwards. Then the compost should 

i66 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 167 

be put in. If the barrows be filled with a fork it will 
naturally happen that the larger lumps will get to the 
bottom, and towards the finish it will be worked so fine 
that spades or shovels will be needed. I would advise 
intending purchasers to go to the fruit ground and see 
their trees before purchasing. That is the only satisfactory 
method. Choose fan-shaped trees — the real type of fan- 
shaped, with all the shoots springing from the middle, not 
the so-called fan-shaped which has a central branch with 
others springing obliquely from it all the way up. The 
former are sometimes called Scotsmen's trees, and this 
reflects credit on the discernment of our brothers over the 
border. Another point to be noticed is that the wood is 
well ripened. Do not buy a tree which has very thick, 
long green growths. That means rank growth, which must 
be cured before there will be much fruit. 



Planting Peaches and Nectarines 

As soon as the trees are received from the nursery they 
should be planted. A suitable hole is made in the border 
and the tree put in, so that the stem is buried to the same 
depth as previously. It must be remembered in planting 
that every encouragement should be given to the roots to 
run straight away, and for this purpose they should be 
spread out in all directions and set at their respective 
levels. Fine soil should be sprinkled directly over them, 
as the work proceeds, and the soil should be well firmed. 
All torn roots should be trimmed off neatly with a sharp 
knife, and thick, fleshy ones devoid of fibre must be cut hard 
back. Peach-trees usually need lifting two or three times 
until they have worn down their exuberance and settled 
into bearing. The very fact of lifting them will often give 
them a sufficient check, but when strong, fibreless roots 



i68 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

(which are the real cause of the mischief) are found, they 
should certainly be cut off. This system of root-pruning 
must be practised if good crops of fruit are to be forth- 
coming. The best time to do it is as soon as the leaves 
have fallen. 



Pruning and Training Peach-Trees 

It is, I think, generally admitted that the training of 
trees is to a large extent a dying art in gardening. Especi- 
ally is this the case with peaches and nectarines, which 
do not admit of such rigid training as apples and pears, 
owing to the fact that their pruning varies considerably 
from these and necessitates a taking down and rearrange- 
ment of the branches. 

Now the practice of some growers is to be wholly in- 
different to the position of the branches. They maintain, 
and rightly, that fruit is the essential consideration and 
that the position of the branches is a matter of no conse- 
quence. With the simple reservation that I know there 
are cases where a gardener cannot find time to do the work 
in as efficient a manner as he would wish, I must differ 
from that opinion. I contend that the difference in the 
manner of training does not involve so much more time 
as is imagined. But the result of straight training is that 
it gives the tree a better appearance and the gardener a 
better name. 

In the beginning of my gardening career I came under 
the tuition of a gardener of the old school who was very 
particular about the training of fruit-trees in general and 
peach-trees in particular. He would have every shoot 
trained out perfectly straight, both in the glass houses and 
on the outside walls, so straight that no two branches ever 
crossed or could conceivably have crossed had the shoots 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



169 



been extended indefinitely. Often we lads had to take 
down and retie whole branches because they did not reach 
his rigid standard. His advice was to give alternate ties 
up and down and to be quite sure that the last tie was an 
upward one so as to bear the weight if a fruit were left near 
the extremity of the shoot. Nor is this straight training 




Diagram 33. — Peach Training : i. Undesirable shape of tree. 2. Best type for 
peach-tree. 3. Branch of peach-tree before pruning and tying. 4. Same branch 
after pruning and tying. 

at all difficult if it be started early in the tree's career. 
To take over a tree of some ten years' indiscriminate train- 
ing and to endeavour to make it into a well-trained tree is 
a difficulty bordering on the impossible. 

The main idea in the pruning and training of a peach- 
tree is to have the tree well clothed from bottom to top 
with fruiting wood. To allow the tree to extend unduly 



170 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

and to have large gaps in the centre and bottom of the tree 
is a decidedly bad policy. It will be generally noticed that 
the best fruits are found near the base of the fruiting 
branches, which would lead lis to infer that the nearer the 
fruiting wood is to the base of the tree itself the better 
crop we shall get. Were there no difference in the crop 




Diagram 34. — A well-furnished peach-tree. 

it would certainly be a breach of economy to waste the 
wall or trellis space. 

Where a peach-tree has been well managed during the 
growing season by disbudding the growths so as to leave 
only basal shoots and a leader to each branch, it will be 
an easy matter to cut out the fruiting wood at the point 
from which the new growths spring and then to thin the 
branches. In the thinning the lower shoots should have 
the preference in retention, unless they are decidedly weak, 
ill-ripened or obviously inferior to the others. During 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 171 

the growing season the careful grower will have taken care 
to have tied in these shoots close to the fruiting wood, and 
in that case there will be little difficulty in training them 
straight. Whether inside or out, on wires or on walls, I 
certainly advise tying the small branches with raffia grass 
and the large ones with tar-cord. 

Where there has been scale and red -spider, or where it 




Diagram 35. — i. Branch of peach-tree not disbudded. 2. Same branch dis- 
budded. 3. Same branch with the resuUing growths temporarily tied in. 

is feared there will be, a winter dressing should be applied 
to all the old wood first and then carefully, with a small 
brush, to the young growths, omitting only the buds, and 
exercising care not to rub these out. The dressing sold by 
Timothy & Sand with is very effectual, and where it is used 
in the winter I find there is less difficulty in warding off 
red-spider in the summer. 



172 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

The Routine Work 

Among peach-trees this cannot be considered at all 
difficult. From the time they are started into growth, 
which in the usual course will be about February, they must 
be syringed freely and forcibly twice a day, except when 
the weather is dull and when they are in flower. Other- 
wise the syringing must go on without intermission until 
the fruits begin to colour. When by the combined force 
of syringing and of increased warmth the buds burst and 
growth appears, we are confronted with the work of dis- 
budding. It has often been said that peach-pruning should 
be done with the thumb and finger, which means that early 
in the year all growths which are not likely to be required 
are nipped out, the growths nearest the base of the previous 
year's growth being retained where it is possible and suit- 
able. Other growths which make towards the back or the 
front of the tree are pinched out. For safety's sake and 
to leave a choice for winter pruning some leave rather more 
growths, but owing to the danger of overcrowding, and thus 
preventing the sun from colouring the fruit and ripening 
the wood, it is not a commendable plan. The branches left 
must be tied in as they become long enough. 

Flowering and Thinning 

As previously stated, syringing must cease during flower- 
ing, and to ensure a good set of fruit it is wise to touch all 
the flowers at noon with a rabbit's tail tied to a stick. This 
must be done until the form of the embryo peach is clearly 
seen. Then again may syringing be resumed. Inordinary 
cases it will be found that more fruits have set than will be 
required, for it is bad policy to over-crop a tree. Not only 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 173 

will the future of the tree be jeopardised, but only medium 
fruits will be obtained. The number of fruit a healthy 
tree can carry depends on its size, but in most peach houses 
sixty on a tree would be a good crop. When quite small 
the fruit may be thinned the first time, but a final thinning 
should not be undertaken until after the stones have been 
formed, for during this critical period many are liable to 
drop off. The fruit should be spaced out all over the tree, 
not for appearance only but to preserve the balance of the 
tree. 

The trees should never want for water during the whole 
of their career. The best periods for watering are im- 
mediately on starting the trees, when the fruit begins to 
swell after stoning, just before colouring begins and 
immediately after all the fruit has been gathered. 

It remains to be added that the best varieties of 
nectarines are Cardinal, Lord Napier, Stanwick Elruge, 
Spencer and Violette Hative. Among peaches may be 
recommended Bellegarde, Sea Eagle, Royal George, 
Grosse Mignonne, Hale's Early and Dymond. 



CHAPTER XVI 

FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN POTS 

If the details of culture which I am going to outline be 
well followed I feel sure that a good reward of fruit will be 
the result. Strawberry culture in pots is by no means 
difficult, so I hope all readers who have the opportunity 
will endeavour to grow a few dozens. 

Choosing Strawberry Runners 

There can be no question about the fact that if good 
strawberry plants are wanted a good start must be made, 
and this can best be done by selecting good runners for 
layering. The policy of severe selection is one which needs 
to be emphasised. It is not, I know, always convenient 
or even possible to follow good counsel, but as there is no 
inconvenience or impossibility in giving it, and as it is 
always well to aim high, I would advise this policy in 
strawberry culture — and it applies to outside or inside 
culture : allow no fruit on plants intended for runners, 
and no runners on plants intended for fruit. Unless the 
space at disposal is so restricted as to render good gardening 
impossible, a few plants should be set aside especially for 
the production of runners. Allow only five runners on 
each plant, cut off all others, as well as secondary runners, 
and allow neither flower nor fruit on these plants. With 
the ground kept clean, the runners fully exposed, the 

174 



FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN POTS 175 

absence of straw or of overcrowding of runners, there 
should be every prospect of getting a good start. 

The general method — ^which I do not advise — is to secure 
such runners as are available from fruiting plants. This 
may serve the purpose, and with skilful management 
afterwards it is quite possible to secure good fruit. But it 
is certainly not the best way. Let us consider. As soon as 
the fruit has set straw is placed beneath them along each 
side of the row in order, of course, to keep the fruit from 
draggling in the soil. This means that the runners go a 
considerable distance beneath the straw and thus become 
weak and unripened, and the thin leaves stand on long, 
slender stalks. Not until the fruit has passed and the 
litter cleared away can layering be successfully accom- 
plished. 

Planting out Forced Plants 

In pursuance of the policy of growing, especially for 
runners, it is an excellent plan to save the best of the plants 
which have been forced, and after duly hardening them off 
to plant them on a piece of trenched ground. Some good 
runners can be procured in this way, and if they have not 
been forced very hard they should make splendid plants 
for fruiting the following year. 

Layering Strawberries 

When the runners are large enough layering may be com- 
menced. For whatever purpose the plants are intended it 
is better to layer them in pots, but especially so if good 
pot plants are desired. I would advise amateurs to layer 
into 3-inch pots. These should be clean, but a small 
bunch of leaves put in the bottom will serve the purpose 
of drainage quite as well as crocks. Fill the pots with 



176 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

sandy soil and place them between the rows in an upright 
manner so that they can be properly watered. Where 
runners are taken from several rows it is customary to 
place the pots between two rows and to layer the runners 
from those two rows, leaving vacant the space between the 
next two rows for a pathway when watering. A little 




Diagram 36. — Layering Strawberries : i. Weak layer (a) through being 
buried in straw put beneath fruit. 2. A strong layer. 3. Secondary layer as 
at (b) should be avoided. 4. Layer set in fruiting pot and pegged (c). 

soil may be scraped out with the finger to give place to the 
roots at the base of the runner. Firm the soil somewhat 
around the base and put in a wooden or wire peg or a stone 
to keep the runner in place until sufficient roots have 
been formed. Beyond watering, it will also be necessary 
to keep all other runners cut off the old plant and all the 
secondary ones off the runners. When there is sufficient 
evidence that the runners have rooted they may be severed 



FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN POTS 177 

from the old plants, and it would then be most convenient 
to get the pots off the beds and put them on a piece of 
ground with a cool ashed bottom. 

Yet another method, and one which I always adopt 
myself, is to layer the plants directly into their fruiting 
pots, which may be six inches in diameter. The great 
danger which accompanies this process is that the plants 
may be over-watered before the roots are able to well take 
hold of the soil. Although this method of layering into 
fruiting pots is known to produce good crops, it has also 
been fruitful in failures, and I cannot recommend it to 
amateurs generally, until they have themselves tried its 
merits with a few plants. The old way is the safer, the 
newer one far better, but the latter is only for experienced 
growers. 

Potting the Plants 

When the plants are layered in 3-inch pots they will 
by the end of August need to be transferred to 6-inch 
pots. Let clean, dry pots be used, and for a compost use 
good turfy loam, leaf -soil, mushroom manure, mortar rubble 
and a slight admixture of Peruvian guano or Le Fruitier, 
also a scattering of soot. Stand the plants either on an 
ashed bottom, or preferably on boards, after they have been 
potted quite firmly. The pots will quickly be filled with 
roots and will then bear with liquid manure. This should 
not be very strong, but frequent, for as the winter ap- 
proaches very little water will be needed. A sprinkling 
of some good chemical manure may be given before the 
autumn is very far advanced. 

Treatment during Forcing 

Before forcing the plants are plunged in ashes or leaves 
to preserve the pots from frost, and if lights can be put over 

M 



178 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

to ward off heavy rains it will be a decided advantage. 
From their plunging quarters they may be taken early in 
the year and be put on a shelf close to the glass in a warm 
house. The pots should be washed and dead leaves 
pulled off the plants. It is probable that for some time 
the soil will be very wet. When this dries somewhat a 
slight dressing of Clay's fertiliser may be sprinkled over 
the surface soil of each pot and the surface be loosened 
with a label. With careful watering and forcible syringing 
they will soon make headway. The syringing should be 
stopped during the flowering, but be resumed afterwards 
until the fruit shows colour. To ensure pollination and 
the formation of shapely fruits the blooms should be lightly 
touched at midday with a rabbit's tail. When the fruit 
has set, thinning may take place. The usual and com- 
mendable plan is to reduce the number of fruit to six on 
each plant. The opportunity will then occur to give the 
fruit some support by the use of twiggy pieces of birch. 
From this time onward they will require much water, must 
never be allowed to flag, and in addition to fortnightly 
top-dressing of dry fertiliser, they will receive much benefit 
from frequent watering with manure and soot water. 
But these stimulants and the syringing must cease as the 
fruit colours and the plants will benefit by removal to 
cooler, drier and more airy quarters. 

By introducing a few plants into heat each fortnight a 
succession of fruit may be kept up. 



CHAPTER XVII 

TOMATOES IN THE GREENHOUSE 

Those who wish may have a splendid crop of tomatoes 
in a house in which there is scarcely any heat, though they 
will not be so early. In the germination and in the early 
stages they will, of course, need fire-heat, but scarcely any 
after they are planted out. Early in February is a good 
time to sow the seeds. Instead of scattering them indis- 
criminately over the surface of the pan or box, let them be 
placed about an inch apart, then covered with soil, then 
with a sheet of glass and finally with a sheet of paper. If 
put into a temperature of 50° to 60° they will germinate in 
about a week. By the end of the month, with the pan put 
close to the glass, the seedlings should be sufficiently ad- 
vanced to be pricked off into boxes at a distance of about 
two and a half inches apart. Sandy soil and leaf-soil will 
form a suitable medium, and no manure must be used. 

The Potting of Tomatoes 

In the boxes and in the same temperature they may 
remain for about three weeks, when they will be fit for 
transference singly to 3-inch pots. Here again an open 
soil free from manure will be needed. But a few days 
before potting move them to a cooler quarter, where the 
temperature is somewhat less and the atmosphere not so 
close. To prevent their becoming leggy pot them right 
up to the base of the seed leaves and give them a light 
179 



i8o THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

position quite close to the glass. Water them immedi- 
ately after potting, and while keeping them somewhat on 
the dry side do not allow them ever to flag. At this stage, 
with the rapidly lengthening days they grow quickly, and 
it will be found that in little more than a fortnight they will 




Dia^am 37. — Tomatoes : i. Seeds sown in pan. 2. Pricked oflf into 
box. 3. Potted into 3-inch pot. 4. Shifted into 5-inch pot. 5. Planted 
permanently in g-inch pot or (Fig. 6) in a box. 

qualify for another shift, this time into 5-inch or 6-inch 
pots. When the plants are eventually to be planted out 
on the staging the 5-inch size will be found most suitable, 
but if intended for fruiting in large pots let them now be 
accommodated with 6-inch pots. 



TOMATOES IN THE GREENHOUSE i8i 



Planting Tomatoes 

As soon as they have nicely filled these pots with roots 
and before they become root-bound, the plants will be fit 
for setting out. This will occur under favourable con- 
ditions about three weeks after potting, so that we come to 
the early part of April or not later than the middle. From 
the time of planting onwards they will grow without fire- 
heat, though they benefit by the pipes being slightly warm. 

We will presume that the plants are to be set out on 
the greenhouse staging. Having cleared off the shingle 
or ashes, let two boards be set on end at a distance of eight 
or nine inches apart and make the requisite arrangements 
for keeping these in place. Cover the bottom with leaves, 
and over this put some soil, making it fairly firm, A depth 
of two inches will be quite sufficient. It now remains to 
knock the plants out of the pots, extract the crocks and 
set them at a distance of eighteen inches apart. Fill in 
with soil and make this firm about the ball and sufficient 
to cover the balls of soil by about an inch. It is essential 
that the soil be made quite firm to induce sturdy and short- 
jointed growth and the earlier formation of fruit. No 
stimulant of any kind should be used in the soil. Such soil 
as is obtained from old chrysanthemum stools or which 
has been used for violets in frames will serve well for 
tomatoes. 

The Training of Tomatoes 

There is no great problem in the training of a tomato. 
The method found most generally satisfactory is to train 
it to a single stem and to pinch out every side growth as 
it appears. These side growths form at the base of the 



i82 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

leaves and are easily distinguished from the flower clusters 
which form on the stem some distance from the leaves. 
The pinching should be continued throughout the life of 
the tomato. It is usual also to pinch out the point of the 
plant when it has attained a height of about five feet. 
By this time it will have set many clusters of fruit, and the 
aim will be to divert the energies of the plant to the swelling 
and ripening of these fruits. One stake to each plant will 
be sufficient, and to this the growing point must be fre- 
quently tied. There is a disagreement among growers as 
to the advantage of shortening the leaves of tomatoes 
during growth. Personally I do not believe in the practice 
except as a means of exposing the fruit to the ripening in- 
fluence of the sun. As the season advances the period of 
sunshine becomes less, and then it is an advantage to cut 
off any leaves which prevent this being fully utilised. 

Although it is not absolutely necessary to fertilise 
tomatoes artificially it is an advantage to run over them 
at noon, touching each flower with a rabbit's tail. This 
takes but a moment of time, and the resulting fruits are 
likely to be of better shape. 

Top-dressing Tomatoes 

If the plants have been treated as advised they will by 
the end of May have filled the soil with roots. They will 
also have set several clusters of fruit. It will now be safe 
and necessary to top-dress them with soil richer than that 
in which they were planted. This may consist of two 
parts soil similar to that in which they were planted, one 
part leaf -soil, and one part mushroom manure. Shift the 
boards back three inches each way, fix them firmly in 
place and put in the soil at the rate of a pailful to each 
plant. This should be rammed quite firm. The old soil 



TOMATOES IN THE GREENHOUSE 183 

must not be dry at the time of top-dressing, but a good 
watering afterwards will settle down the new soil. A 
further top-dressing will be needed about six weeks after- 
wards. 

Feeding with liquid manure should not be undertaken 
immediately after top-dressing, but as the roots show a 
disposition to run joyously into the soil liquid stimulants 
may be resorted to. 

Other Items in Tomato Culture 

Tying and disbudding must be attended to regularly, 
and any fruit clusters which seem to be too heavy, or which 
are too near the soil, should be duly supported. Plenty of 
air should be given on all possible occasions, but not such 
as to produce a strong draught playing directly on to the 
foliage. Disfigured fruits and any which seem to be 
diseased must be cut off. Grown under these conditions, 
ripe fruit will be available towards the end of June, and 
although the plants may be cut out in October it should be 
possible to keep the fruit in a storeroom so as to maintain 
a supply until the end of November. Good varieties for 
amateurs would be Carter's Sunrise and Holmes' Supreme. 
These do not form extra large fruits, but the clusters often 
produce as many as thirty fruits of medium and useful size. 

As a rule amateurs who have a greenhouse cannot main- 
tain much heat, so that the method shown above should 
prove eminently economical and satisfactory. 

Tomatoes in a Frame 

Tomatoes may be grown in a frame with every prospect 
of success. At the lower end or front of the frame, box- 
work could be made for them by running a plank along 



i84 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

the inside at a foot from the front and fixing it firmly in 
position. Some rough turf may then be put over the hard 
bottom, and over this could with advantage be spread some 
spent horse droppings such as have been used for mush- 
room beds. With a little of the compost put over this 
and made firm the place is ready for the reception of the 
plants. If the depth of the box be about fifteen inches 
there will be ample room for setting out the plants and 
afterwards treating them to periodical top-dressings. 
The plants may be bought cheaply if they have not been 
raised on the place and could be set out at not less than 
twelve nor more than eighteen inches apart. Afterwards 
the work of training, top-dressing, etc., will follow on the 
same lines as that given above for tomatoes in a green- 
house. 



CHAPTER XVIII 
cucumbers and melons 

Cucumbers in a Frame 

In the course of my writing for the press on horticultural 
subjects I have frequently been asked to give details of 
how to grow cucumbers. 

Few indeed are the amateurs or small growers who could 
not grow a cucumber in a frame. If he has a frame and 
can obtain some stable manure and tree leaves he can 
certainly grow cucumbers. 

The actual work of making a hotbed will be given in the 
part of this work devoted to forcing vegetables. Suffice 
it here to say that the great danger with the amateur grower 
is that he will allow the bed to heat too violently, and the 
result will be death or grave injury to the plants, if they 
be already planted, or considerable subsequent loss of heat, 
and as a consequence less satisfactory results. The best 
way to obviate this danger is by mixing the materials well 
and also by treading the bed firmly. It is scarcely possible 
to tread a hotbed too firmly, for no matter how much it is 
trodden it will always sink somewhat later on. When the 
bed has been made and the frame set on, a stick might be 
plunged far into the centre. This, when pulled out and 
handled, will be a guide as to the amount of heat in the 
bed. 

When the stick feels nicely warm to the hand without 
being hot it will be safe to get ready for planting. To make 

185 



i86 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

sure of keeping down rank heat and obnoxious gases it is 
a good plan to cover the heating material with a few inches 
of soil or cinder ashes. The soil intended for planting may 
then be put in a mound in the middle of each light and be 
left for a day to become warm. The soil may consist of 
fresh loam and horse manure in equal parts, with some leaf- 
soil added. Preference should be given to horse droppings 
which have been used for mushroom beds, as the rankness 
will then have departed. About a bushel and a half of 
soil should be sufficient for the planting of two cucumbers. 
It is not advisable to make the soil firm. Such firmness 
as is imparted by patting the soil with the palm of the hand 
will be ample. Nor after planting should any greater firm- 
ness be aimed at. Two plants may be planted to each 
light, the one to be trained towards the top and the other 
towards the bottom of the frame. 

Where there is no greenhouse for rearing the young 
plants they must be bought, but for the benefit of those 
who have facilities for raising their own plants the method 
of doing so will be outlined. It is safer always to put in 
more pips than will be wanted, else failure will cause in- 
convenience or delay. The best plan is to insert the pips 
singly in small pots. The pot, after being duly crocked, 
is nearly filled with sandy soil. A hole is then made with 
a dibber, or with the finger, a pinch of sand is put in, the 
pip is inserted, and is covered with sand, and afterwards 
with soil. In this way the process of throwing out root and 
top is facilitated and there is little danger of loss from 
rotting. If put into a propagator growth will quickly 
protrude, and in a short time it will be possible to accommo- 
date each plant with a 3-inch pot, and eventually with a 
5-inch pot, from which size or a 6-inch they may be planted. 

After planting, the main items of culture are syringing 
and manipulation of the growth. The syringing should be 



CUCUMBERS AND MELONS 187 

done twice daily in fine weather, at nine A.M. when opening 
the lights and between two and three p.m. when closing 
them. The manipulation of the shoots is not so difficult 
as may be imagined. When the main growth gets near to 
reaching the top or bottom of the frame it may be stopped. 
Each other growth should be stopped just beyond the first 
leaf after the fruit. As there becomes a network of growth 
this stopping becomes mainly a matter of thinning by 
cutting out the older growths and encouraging young ones. 
Cucumbers may also, of course, be grown in a house, 
trained to wires. A forcing or propagating house would 
suit them best. Here they require heat and moisture and 
regulation of the growths so as to cover the trellis with 
fruiting wood. 

How TO Grow Melons 

Those of my readers who have only a small amount of 
glass will want to use it to the best advantage, and I feel 
that they can best do this by growing melons in a frame. 
It is not a difficult matter to choose a variety which is 
known to do satisfactorily under frame treatment. Hero 
of Lockinge and Ringleader can be safely recommended for 
this purpose. If a heated pit is available it is, of course, 
preferable that it be used, but even then it is a good plan 
to make up a hotbed to give bottom heat. In the early 
stages melons may be grown precisely like cucumbers 
until they have got nicely settled in a 3-inch pot. The 
preparation of the hotbed will also be similar, the soil being 
made up in a mound in the centre. But the soil for melons 
will differ. They relish a heavy medium made porous with 
lime rubble and wood ashes. In this they may be planted 
after they have got over the pinching. For when they 
are a few inches high the point of each plant will be pinched 



i88 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

out and two growths will be retained. By planting two 
plants beneath each Hght we thus get four growths, which 
may be trained towards the four corners of the frame. 
In the usual course the leading growth should not be 
stopped until the point is within a foot of the comer of the 
frame. The laterals that push out will probably show 
female flowers ; if not they must be pinched, when females 
are pretty sure to be found on the resulting growths. 
When the fruit has set the growth should be nipped off 
about two leaves beyond the fruit. Melons require 
artificial setting about the middle of the day by putting 
the pollen of a male flower on a female flower. This should 
be done each day, for the aim is to get three, four or 
possibly more melons to run along together. When it is 
seen that several fruits are growing together the others 
should be cut off. Syringe twice a day as for cucumber 
until the fruit shows signs of netting, when a drier atmo- 
sphere must be maintained. Red spider is a great enemy 
with melons, but usually a humid atmosphere and forcible 
syringing will keep this in check. 

Like cucumbers, a top-dressing will be needed for melons 
when they have taken well hold of the original soil, and 
they like also to have a firm soil. The fruit must be freely 
exposed to sun when ripening. This is the method of 
culture which I would certainly advise for all those who 
have only a small amount of glass. 

Figs Under Glass 

Although I do not feel that it is within the province of 
this work to treat of the culture of pineapples and bananas, 
as so very few people grow them now, yet a few words must 
be spared for the fig, for where there is a vinery or a peach 
house there is usually space for a fig. The fig is a gross 



CUCUMBERS AND MELONS 189 

grower and should, on that account, have restricted root 
space. A border two feet wide and three feet deep, drained 
and formed similarly to a vine border, will be amply roomy 
for a fig. The endeavour is to get young growth covering 
all the space of the trellis, so the young growths should be 
tied in about six inches apart. Heat, syringing, etc., will 
be the same as for the vines or peaches. The border 
should never become dry and when once the trees are 
established they will bear plenty of feeding with liquid 
manure, farmyard manure and a good fruit fertiliser, such 
as Le Fruitier. 



PART IV 

VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XIX 

FORCING VEGETABLES 

There are two phases in the culture of vegetables under 
glass. Some are forced and brought to maturity under 
glass, while others are raised and forwarded under glass 
to be eventually planted out. Thus the subject naturally 
divides itself into two parts. As for both purposes a hot- 
bed will be found most useful, I will show how to make 
one. The question arises whether those with very limited 
glass accommodation should go in for forcing early vege- 
tables — whether they should not rather utilise their room 
for growing greenhouse plants and flowers and forwarding 
plants for the flower garden. Personally, I think that is 
the wiser course, but I know that everyone is anxious 
to score against his fellows and to show that he can get 
early vegetables. That I cannot well condemn, for I am 
myself strongly impelled by the same desire. 

Making a Hotbed 

A hotbed may be made of leaves, of stable litter, or of a 
combination of the two. The latter is the better plan, the 
proportions being equal. The material should be spread 
in layers and be allowed to stand in a heap for several days. 
Then it may be turned over once, and after another few 
days made into a hotbed. The size of the hotbed will 
depend on the frame which is to be put on it. A clear 
space of at least eighteen inches should be left all around 

N 193 



194 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

the frame. Then if the frame be 6 feet by 4 feet the dimen- 
sions of the hotbed will need to be 9 feet by 7 feet. It is 
essential that the material be well trodden, or the heat will 
be violent at first, but will not last long. After every 
layer is put on, treading should be done. It is useless 
to make up the bed first and try to tread-it afterwards. 






^min^/l 



Diagram 38. — Hotbed: i. Plan of hotbed showing position of frame. Out- 
side line shows dimensions at bottom, and dotted lines dimension at top. 
2. Section of frame set on hotbed. 3. Heating material put into a brick pit. 
4. Heating material put in a hole with frame over. Further litter may be 
added at {a). 

When nearing the top of the bed, set the frame in place, 
and then put some of the material inside it and tread well 
down. This precaution is necessary because the material 
will sink, and it may not sink equally, thus leaving a space 
at the bottom of the frame. 

An easy method of knowing how the heat runs in a hot- 



FORCING VEGETABLES 195 

bed is to thrust a stick deeply in the centre of the bed. 
After a few days the heat may be known by drawing the 
stick out. When comfortably warm, the hotbed may be 
used. 

Soil should be spread over the top of the bed, the amount 
required being regulated by the use to which the bed is to 
be put. If intended for carrots, lettuces, radishes and 
such like, six inches should be the depth. 

It may be remarked that after the hotbed has been ex- 
hausted the material will still be useful for working into 
the land, especially if the land be heavy. In fact, it is 
the best way of making use of stable manure. The manure 
is brought from the stables, the droppings are shaken out, 
to be formed into a mushroom bed ; the long straw is 
mixed with leaves to form a hotbed, which will eventually 
be returned to the land ; and after the mushroom bed is 
exhausted the manure is still very useful. Thus a double 
use is made of the manure, with very little of its virtue 
gone. 

Where plenty of; leaves are available it is a wise plan 
to form them into a large heap and cover them with a frame 
or to set them in a hole and put a frame over. In this way 
a heat will be given to the frame, the leaves will decay, and 
in the following year they will be drier than those stacked 
in the open. 

Asparagus. — This agreeable vegetable may very easily 
be forced on a hotbed made as described above. Good 
roots from an established bed should be dug up and 
placed over a few inches of soil on the hotbed. A slight 
covering of soil should be given, and a good watering. 
The frame will need to be covered at nights when there 
is likely to be frost. In well-appointed gardens it is 
customary to force plants from the oldest bed and to 
make a new bed each year. 



196 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Beans. — Dwarf French beans are the kind usually 
forced in a warm house, though where space abounds the 
climbing form of French bean may be grown. Amateurs 
generally will find less trouble with the dwarf forms. 
I would recommend a selected form of Ne Plus Ultra. 
Four or five beans may be put into a 4-inch pot in any 
sandy soil and be covered lightly with half-an-inch of 
soil. The pots should then be placed on a board and the 
board put directly over the hot-water pipes. They will 
shoot out in a few days, when they may be put on the 
staging. When well rooted, let two pots of plants be put 
together in an 8-inch pot. If kept in a light position, 
duly staked, well syringed to keep down red spider, and 
fed after they have flowered, they will fruit plentifully. 

Carrots. — (I would recommend Sutton's Inimitable 
Forcing.) May be sown in drills six inches apart, with 
radishes between them on a mild hotbed. Beyond 
watering and ventilating, they need very little attention. 
They may be thinned as they become fit for use. 

Cauliflowers. — -These vegetables are seldom brought 
to maturity under glass. If, however, such a course is 
decided on, they should be sown outside in September, 
and afterwards potted into small pots, and eventually into 
the 8-inch size. Until the beginning of the year they 
will do with cold-frame treatment, but after this date a 
gentle heat will bring them along to maturity several 
weeks before they could be got, under ordinary conditions, 
outside. 

Lettuces. — A supply of these can usually be kept up 
through the greater part of the year outside, but to supple- 
ment this it is often the practice to sow in autumn and 
prick out the plants in frames. A soil composed largely 
of leaf-soil vvill suit them well, and plenty of ventilation 
will be needed to keep them from damping. They may 



FORCING VEGETABLES 



197 



also be planted between potatoes when these are grown 
in frames. Earliest of All, Commodore Nutt and Golden 
Ball are good varieties. 

Mustard and Cress. — ^Knownin the trade as " hot and 
cold." It is very easily grown. It needs to be sown 
quite thickly over the surface of a box of soil previously 
watered. Put the box in a warm house and cover it 




Diagram 39. — Potatoes : i. Sprouting potatoes in a box on greenhouse shelf. 
2. A well-sprouted potato. 3 and 4. Potatoes put singly or in threes in 9-inch 
pot. s. Potatoes planted in pit over heating material. 6. Top view of frame 
showing lines of potatoes with lettuces between. 

until germination commences. Then take off the cover- 
ing and cut before it has broken into rough leaf. To 
keep up a supply, sow a little of both each week. 

Potatoes. — May be forced in a frame or in pots. If 
grown in frames, it is preferable that a modicum of bottom 
heat be given by means of a foot or more of heating 
material. Plant in rows about fifteen inches apart and 
six inches between the sets. As stated previously, carrots 



198 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

or lettuces may be put between the rows, also radishes. 
If grown in pots, one or two sets may be put in each 9-inch 
pot and the tuber should be just covered, allowing room 
for future top-dressing. If the growths are kept upright 
by stakes, and the soil never allowed to become quite 




Diagram 40. — Forcing Rhubarb, Asparagus and Seakale: 
I. Rhubarb in box beneath staging. 2. Rhubarb set on floor 
and covered with leaves with mat put up (a). 3. Asparagus in 
frame. 4. Seakale in pots. 5. Root-cutting of seakale. 

dry, some useful ^tubers may be produced. The pots 
used for chrysanthemums will do well for these. Sharp's 
Victor, Sharp's Express and May Queen are good varieties 
for forcing. 



FORCING VEGETABLES 199 

Radishes. — ^May be obtained for use in a very short 
time by sowing broadcast in a frame used for carrots, 
potatoes or lettuces. Cover the seeds lightly. French 
Breakfast is a good variety. 

Rhubarb. — ^This is really better forced in the open 
ground by setting boxes over it. It may be treated 
precisely like seakale for indoor culture. Roots should 
be taken up from the open ground (and, if possible, be 
exposed to frost) and be put in a deep frame, box or 
pot, or beneath the greenhouse staging, with some soil 
worked round the roots. Some means must be taken to 
keep them dark. The seakale roots will be of little use 
after forcing, but the rhubarb may be planted out but 
not forced again for two years. If several seakale crowns 
are put into a g-inch pot another pot may be inverted 
over them. A succession may be kept up until it is 
available outside. 



CHAPTER XX 

FORWARDING PLANTS FOR VEGETABLE PLOT 

One good method of getting early vegetables is by for- 
warding them in heat during the early months of the year, 
and planting them out later, usually in April. In this way 
we may get much earlier vegetables in the way of onions, 
leeks, cauliflowers, cabbages, lettuces, sprouts, celery, 
beet, marrows, peas, broad beans, runner beans, dwarf 
beans, potatoes, mint, parsley and tomatoes. The 
latter, though in reality a fruit, may for convenience be 
dealt with here, as it is the only thing in the fruit line which 
is forwarded under glass and afterwards planted out. 

For convenience also, and to avoid repetition, I will 
give directions how to get along those plants which are 
sown in boxes and transplanted from them. The remarks 
will apply to onions, leeks, cauliflowers, cabbages, lettuces, 
sprouts, broad beans and parsley. All these may be 
sown early in the year, during January and February, 
and put into a temperature of about 50° to 55°. The 
boxes should be covered with a sheet of glass, if possible, 
or a sheet of cardboard or paper until germination takes 
place. Before they become crowded prick the young plants 
off into other boxes at a distance of about three inches 
apart, using some sandy soil. The boxes should have the 
bottom covered with dry leaves and the soil should be 
passed through a half-inch sieve and made quite firm, 
allowing about half-an-inch of space at the top for water- 
ing. A small setting peg may be used for pricking off, but 

200 



FORWARDING VEGETABLE PLANTS 201 

generally gardeners do it with the index finger. When 
the young plants are growing along nicely they should be 
gradually accustomed to a colder atmosphere so that they 
may later be transferred to cold frames and later still to a 
sheltered position outside to prepare them for planting out 
in the open. It is essential that these plants be not 
drawn and that they be not at any time subjected to a 
very high temperature. 

Beet may be sown in boxes in April and be planted out. 
The Globe type is the best for this purpose, as it comes to 
maturity earlier. Peas may be sown" in pots or in boxes. 
Personally I have been more successful by using boxes. 
A box 2 feet by 15 inches wiU easily accommodate a 
hundred seeds, and when hardened off these may be 
planted in double rows. Broad Beans may be treated in 
a precisely similar manner. For Runner Beans I would 
sow one bean in a 3-inch pot and plant out a foot apart. 
Dwarf Beans I would sow three in a pot and plant one foot 
apart in rows two feet apart, and a row of radishes 
between. They may by this means be got much forwarder 
than by sowing outside, and they occupy space in the 
greenhouse for a short time only. 

Tomatoes should be sown early in February and be worked 
steadily along to a 5-inch or 6-inch pot, planting them 
against a sunny wall or fence during May, but protecting 
them from late frost, should any occur. Potatoes are merely 
forwarded by bringing them in boxes into a greenhouse to 
get the growths about an inch long before planting. It has 
been found to increase the yield of all kinds if they are 
treated in this way. Marrows should be sown during the 
last week of March, singly, in small pots, which may later 
be replaced by larger ones, so that the plants may early in 
May be set out under handUghts from 6-inch pots. Mint 
may be forced for use with early potatoes, by digging up 



202 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

some roots, putting them in a box over a layer of leaves 
and covering them with soil. Cuttings of the growths may 
be taken to form a new plantation. Celery should be sown 
in boxes in February, pricked off closely into other boxes, 
and afterwards set out at a greater distance apart in a 
flame or on a piece of suitable ground, where they can be 
protected as occasion demands. To ward off celery fly, 
syringe frequently with weak soot-water and quassia- 
water. 



PART V 

GREENHOUSE WORK 



CHAPTER XXI 

propagatio'n under glass 

a 

Seeds and Seed Sowing 

Under natural conditions, all the energy of a plant is 
devoted to the formation and ripening of its seed for the 
purpose of perpetuating its kind. Hence in a seed we get 
the concentrated energy of the parent plant, and it is not 
extraordinary that plants grown from seeds display more 
vigour and are better able to withstand the vicissitudes of 
culture than those grown from cuttings. Vigour and strong 
constitution, though not always accompanied by delicacy 
and refinement, either in plants or in human beings, nor 
necessarily opposed to them, must not be despised. When 
hybridisers wish to impart vigour to cultivated plants, 
which by repeated propagation have deteriorated, they 
invariably cross them with the wild plants whose vigour 
has remained unimpaired. This has been successfully 
accomplished with the apple and the potato. Though we 
get vigour with plants from seeds it is not always possible 
to use this method of increase ; for there are many plants 
which do not come true — -that is, do not display those 
useful or beautiful characteristics of the parent that we wish 
to perpetuate. In such cases recourse must be had to 
propagation from bud in its many forms of cuttings, layers, 
roots, runners, offsets, budding and grafting. Colour and 
fragrance of flowers, form and variegation of leaf and habit 
of growth are characteristics of a plant which constitute 

205 



2o6 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

for us probably its only charm, yet in many cases propaga- 
tion from seeds would rob us of these. 



Sowing in Pans and Boxes 

Pans should be clean and dry and have a crock (a piece 
of broken pot) placed over the hole at the bottom ; other 
crocks should be placed over this, and then a few leaves 
or some moss to prevent the soil choking the drainage. 



2 









4 m. 



Diagram 41. — Seed Sowing : i. Concave crock (a) set in position {b). 2. Pan 
duly prepared with soil and drainage. 3. Wooden tray 12 inches x 15 inches X 
2 inches. 4. Same prepared for seeds. 5. Pan covered with sheet of glass after 
sowing. 6. Pan and glass covered with sheet of paper. 

Fill to within half-an-inch with sandy soil passed through 
a quarter-inch sieve. Press firmly and evenly and dust 
the surface with soil sifted through a very fine sand sieve. 
Press evenly with some flat surface and sow the seeds in 
as even a manner as possible, avoiding very thick sowing. 



PROPAGATION UNDER GLASS 207 

Cover lightly with more fine soil, press lightly, water with 
a fine rosed can, cover with a sheet of glass, shade with a 
sheet of paper and put in a suitable temperature about 5° 
or 10° higher than that in which the plants usually grow. 
Boxes, of course, may be similarly treated, though no 
crocks, but only leaves, will be needed at the bottom. For 
sowing seeds which will soon be pricked off, shallow trays, 
bought very cheaply from a horticultural sundriesman, 
will be found most useful. 

Seeds germinate best in a soil fine, firm and porous — a 
suitable mixture being two parts loam, one part leaf-soil 
and one part sand, through a quarter-inch sieve. Frequent 
mistakes in seed sowing are filling the pans or boxes too 
full, not providing drainage and using soil containing 
animal or chemical manure. 

Propagation by Cuttings 

The conditions essential to success in rooting cuttings 
are that the wood be in a sufficient state of ripeness, that 
the cutting be inserted in light, sandy soil at a suitable 
time and a suitable depth, that it be cut ofi straight just 
below a joint, that it be put in firmly, and afterwards 
receive the necessary attention in the matter of warmth, 
water and shading. In degree these conditions differ with 
various plants ; the more difficult the subject the more 
diligent should we be to ascertain the suitable conditions 
and the more scrupulous to ensure them. 

How TO Make and Insert Cuttings 

A cutting should usually be the point of the shoot and 
contain from four to six buds or joints, though with hard- 
wooded stuff the preservation of the growing point is not 



2o8 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

essential. Long experience has taught us that the cut 
should be straight and not slanting, that it should be clean 
and not jagged, that it should be made immediately below 
a joint yet not so close that the leaf would drop off. The 




Diagram 42. — Propagation by Cuttings: i. Shows where to cut the growths and 
the leaves to trim off. 2. Cutting of hard-wooded plant where the point is often cut 
off. 3. A difBcult subject cut half-way through and allowed to remain thus. 
4. Ordinary way of making the cut. 5. A slanting cut — not advised. 6. A heel of 
the old wood left on. 7. Base of carnation cutting split to ensure easier rooting. 
8. A good setting stick with blunt end. 9. A bad setting stick, the end being too 
pointed. 10. Several cuttings put into the same hole to form a bushy plant. 11. A 
space left at the base of the cuttings, the result of a pointed dibber — bad practice. 
12. How to take a cutting with a heel. 

leaf, however, must be pinched off, as well as any others 
which would be underground when the cutting is duly in- 
serted. If left they would probably rot and perhaps cause 
the cutting to damp. About one-third of the length of a 
cutting is the right depth to burj^ it. The surface of the 
soil should previously be sprinkled with sharp, dry sand, 



PROPAGATION UNDER GLASS 209 

a hole should be made with a dibber whose end is quite as 
blunt as, and larger than, the base of the cutting and the 
surrounding soil should be made so firm that a gentle pull 
by the leaf will not uplift the cutting. The base of the 
cutting should touch the bottom of the hole. After in- 
sertion some means should be taken to prevent the cutting 
from flagging, such as shading it from sunshine or covering 
with a handlight to shield from draughts. 

Striking Cuttings Collectively 

It is sometimes a practice to grow three plants of a 
variety in the same pot. Often they are grown singly in 
3-inch pots and afterwards clumped together and repotted 
in a larger size. A better way than this (since it involves 
no check) is to insert three cuttings in the one hole at 
the time of propagation. Salvias, chrysanthemums, eupa- 
toriums, coleuses, panicum and many similar free-rooting 
subjects are amenable to this treatment. Big plants are 
thus formed which to the average observer would appear 
to emanate from but one plant. 

Leaf Cuttings 

Some plants admit of ready propagation by the leaf, 
and where their habit of growth precludes the taking of 
cuttings, or the desire of having these plants true to form 
and colour does away with the idea of raising them from 
seeds, this method is taken advantage of. The gloxinia 
is easily grown from this humble beginning, as well as the 
popular begonia, Gloire de Lorraine. The leaf is detached 
with a portion of the leaf stalk, and a clean cut is made. 
If this be cut obliquely it is thought that roots are thrown 
out more quickly. Inserted in leaf -soil and sand in a warm 



210 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

propagator, roots will in due course be thrown out, and 
after a further elapse of time growth will appear. The box 



Ail 









/ 




// 






-■ 


y'l 


'' 


^' 




3 , plUMij^^ti 




2 



Diagram 43. — Propagation by Leaf : i. Leaf cuttings of begonia and gloxinia. 
2. The leaves inserted in boxes. 3. The boxes set on hot-water pipes. 

containing these leaf cuttings may be stood over the hot- 
water pipes. 

Express Propagation 



Where it is desired to work up a stock of plants from a 
few, the grower is called upon to do his utmost. For the 
purpose of illustration let us suppose the subject is the 
geranium and only a few plants are in hand. Every 
available cutting is inserted and the larger of the leaves 
which have been cut away in the process of trimming the 
cuttings are also put in to form plants. The old plants are 
potted up in a slightly larger pot if root-bound, and put 
into a close, warm house to induce them to break into 



PROPAGATION UNDER GLASS 211 

growth. As soon as the young growths are able to be 
handled they are inserted as cuttings and the leaves 
treated as before. In due course the young rooted plants 
are potted up and as soon as large enough the tops are 
taken as cuttings. In this way, by promptitude and perse- 
verance, a large stock may be worked up from humble 
beginnings. Potatoes have frequently been subjected to 
this express propagation by cutting up the tubers into as 
many pieces as there are eyes, putting them into a brisk 
heat and nipping off the points as cuttings as fast as they 
appear. It must be admitted that it is an exhausting 
process, and it is only reasonable to believe that there is 
a sacrifice of constitution in the offspring, but it is well 
to know the method, even if it never be used. 



Soil for Cuttings 

This should be of a sandy nature to admit of the free 
passage of air which plays such an important part in the 
process of rooting. Although not necessarily so fine as 
for seeds, it should be approximately of the same character. 
On no account should manure be present in cutting soil. 
Failure in rooting may often be traced to this cause. Brick 
dust, silver sand, leaf-soil and cocoa-nut fibre may each be 
added to soil for cuttings, though a mixture of loam, leaf- 
soil and sand in nearly equal parts will serve the purpose. 

Advice Needing Emphasis 

It must be made perfectly certain that the base of the 
cutting rests on the bottom of the hole and that the 
cutting be firm. Lobelias and some other subjects will 
root quite readily in the spring if torn apart. Whether 
cuttings are put singly or severally in a pot, or whether 



212 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

boxes or pots are used are minor considerations which 
admit of no general rule. Most cuttings prefer a close, 
moist atmosphere until they have rooted. In many cases 
basal cuttings or suckers are preferred to stem cuttings, 
notably with chrysanthemums. 



Treatment of Difficult Subjects 

Cuttings which display a difficulty in being rooted in the 
ordinary way may have a heel of the old wood left on. 
With carnations it is often a custom to split the base of the 
cutting. It is also a good plan with stubborn subjects to 
cut the stem half-way through at a joint and leave it thus 
on the plant until " callusing " (or swelling of the cut 
surface) has taken place, and then to sever it completely 
and insert in the usual way. Cuttings of poinsettias 
should be inserted almost immediately they are severed 
from the plant, as they have a tendency to lose their sap. 
To obviate this it is usual to dip the ends in dry sand 
immediately on cutting them off. This \vill to a great 
extent avert loss of sap. 

Propagation by Layers 

I think my purpose will best be served by showing how 
carnations are layered, for it is chiefly with them that this 
method of increase is used. It is usual to layer the plants 
immediately after they have matured their flowers. The 
earlier layering is done the larger will be the root system 
established before winter sets in. 

We will layer them in a frame, for that is the better and 
quicker method, although success well attends the layering 
of plants in the soil surrounding them. Soil suitable for 
cuttings will do likewise for layering. We will have a hard 



PROPAGATION UNDER GLASS 213 

bottom to our frame and over it we will put a couple of 
inches of half-decayed leaf-soil. The soil will now be got at 
hand, pegs prepared and a mat put in readiness to shade 
the layers from sunshine. Meanwhile we will prepare 
the plants by cutting out the flower stem, removing weak 




DiagrajnA,\. — Propagation by Layering : i. Plant prepared for layering. 2. How 
to make the cut and a peg for keeping the layer in place. 3. A rooted layer severed 
from the old plant. 4. How the plants and layers are set in a frame. 

grass and stripping from the rest of the plant all the leaves 
to within four or five inches of the point of each growth. 
The growths being loosely looped together to prevent them 
from slivering off at the base, we knock the plant from the 
pot, remove the crocks and lay the ball sideways in the 
frame. 

The next move is to put some soil beneath the growths 
and press it firmly with the hand. We then arrange 



214 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

the growths so that they will be equidistant from each 
other. Now begins the layering proper. With a sharp 
knife a cut is made about an inch below the base of the 
lowest leaves. When the growth is cut half-way through 
immediately below a joint the knife is given an upward 
turn and is made to pass right through the joint. Thus 
we form a kind of tongue and yet leave the young growth 
connected with the old plant. The growth is then pressed 
into the soil so that it is upright, the cut being open and the 
tongue buried in the soil. To keep it in this position pieces 
of wire bent at one end are used as pegs, a little soil is 
worked over the old ball and the layering is complete. 
By watering the layers, closing the lights, shading the 
plants from bright sunshine and syringing them daily, 
we may in about six weeks' time expect new roots to be 
thrown out, thus allowing the severance of the layer from 
the parent. 

Selection of Plants for Layering 

For the general cause of progress it may be well to spare 
a word on the selection of plants. To layer all and any is 
not a good policy. The plants should be chosen for their 
vigour, their general good habit, their freedom from disease, 
their profusion of flowering and the quality of having all 
the flowers blooming at the same time. Added to this we 
have to consider the value of the individual flowers, their 
colour, their form, their substance, their fragrance, their 
size, their lasting properties, the non-bursting of the calyx, 
and the strength and length of the flower stem. Those 
which have most merits should be propagated largely and 
the others in their order of merit. 



PROPAGATION UNDER GLASS 215 



What to Avoid in Layering 

It is wrong to use the soil too wet, or too dry ; to layer 
the plants while the ball of the soil is dry ; to use soil con- 
taining manure ; to allow the shoots to split or sliver at 
their base ; to neglect to bury the old ball ; to break the 
stem in pressing in the layer ; to set the layer obliquely ; 
to strip off too much of the foliage ; to neglect to label the 
plants ; to make so deep a notch that the layer is almost 
entirely severed ; to give too much ventilation for a start ; 
to neglect syringing and watering, and to fail to pull out 
those layers which are seen to have withered, 

« 
Minor Methods of Propagation 

The notching and mossing of such plants as aralias, 
Ficus elastica, dracaena and croton has already been 
alluded to, as also the method of propagation by a bud or 
eye. This has been shown to be the best method of pro- 
pagating the vine. Offsets are small bulbs or shoots spring- 
ing from the base of an older plant. The term is usually 
applied in reference to tulips, hyacinths, narcissi, 
freesias, vallotas, etc. These will, if detached with a few 
roots of their own, soon grow into separate subjects. 
Though not absolutely necessary, it is a decided advantage 
that the offsets possess roots before being detached. 
Division is a very convenient method of increasing stock. 
It is used in the case of ferns, asparagus, grasses and all 
plants which have a root-stock furnished with numerous 
buds. The best time for splitting up is when the plants 
are not in active growth. 



CHAPTER XXII 

POTTING AND POTTING SOILS 

The usual type of flower pot is too well known to need any 
description. These pots are usually sold in casts, a certain 
number going to a cast, according to their size. Among 
gardeners it is customary to speak of pots in numbers 
rather than in inches, and as I know this often confuses 
amateurs I now give the numbers and the size in inches. 
The inches represent the diameter of the pot at its top. 
Thimbles are 2 inches ; thumbs, 2| inches ; small sixties, 
3 inches ; large sixties, 3I inches ; fifty-fours, 4 inches ; 
forty-eights, 5 inches ; forties (or small thirty-twos), 5| 
inches ; large thirty-twos, 6 inches ; twenty-fours, 7 
inches ; sixteens, 8| inches ; twelves, 9 to 10 inches. 
These figures vary slightly, according to the different makes, 
but they may be regarded as being approximately correct. 

Clean v. Dirty Pots 

This is a subject of annual, if not, indeed, perennial dis- 
cussion, among gardeners. Some insist on every pot being 
scrupulously clean before it is used. Others prefer to 
wipe them out, and only to wash them when they become 
unsightly in the greenhouse. Others again adopt a 
compromising attitude by insisting on every pot being 
clean before being used for certain subjects, while for 
others of little importance they consider this attention 
needless. I am personally very much inclined to this 

216 



POTTING AND POTTING SOILS 217 

latter view. It seems to combine in a practical manner the 
ideals of cleanliness and of economy. For carnations, 
cyclamens, chrysanthemums and for everything on which 
the grower is very keen, I should certainly advise clean 
pots and clean crocks, but for such subjects as bedding 
geraniums, forced beans, etc., the difference in the result 
is not worth the extra expenditure of labour. When pots 
are to be washed it is better to soak them previously, so 
that the dirt may be brushed off more easily. In all cases 
pots should be dried by the stokehold fire or on hot-water 
pipes and be rubbed out with a dry rag before being used. 
New pots should be well soaked prior to use, and then be 
allowed to dry. If used without soaking they will absorb 
much of the moisture from the soil, and there will not be 
that same binding union between pot and soil which is 
really essential to good watering and ultimate success 
with the plant. 

The Drainage of Pots 

It is essential that pots be well drained, and this is 
brought about by the use of pieces of broken pots set over 
the holes. A large piece nearly as big as the bottom of the 
pot should be put in first, with its concave side downwards. 
Other smaller pieces should be arranged over this, and 
finally there should be a handful of still smaller pieces. 
This constitutes the drainage. To prevent the soil, which 
will be put in, from filtering into, and so obstructing, the 
drainage, some rough material, leaves, moss, peat, or stable 
droppings should be put over the crocks. Some plants 
require deeper drainage than others. It may be regarded 
as a safe maxim to give sound and deep drainage to those 
plants which will have to remain in the pots for a con- 
siderable time, and shallow drainage to those which will 



2i8 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

have but a few weeks' stay. Thus for eucharis, palms, 
Olivias, and such subjects as do not need annual potting, 
good drainage is essential, while for spiraeas and other forcing 
stuff which will be over in a few weeks, a large crock at the 
bottom will be sufficient. Indeed, in potting up geraniums 
in the spring for planting out in the summer only a few 
leaves are thrown in to keep the soil from falling out of the 
hole. For orchids the pots are filled one-third of the way 
up with crocks, or some growers prefer to use the dead 
roots of ferns got when picking over the peat. 

How TO Pot a Plant 

We will now presume that a plant has to be shifted from 
a 3-inch to a 6-inch pot. The compost has been prepared, 
the pots are crocked and everything is ready. The plant 
may be knocked out of its small pot by holding it in the 
right hand and tapping the rim of the pot on the edge of 
the bench, when the pot may be lifted clear of the ball of 
soil. Having extracted the crocks with as little disturb- 
ance of the roots as possible, the loose soil at the top should 
be rubbed off. Some soil should then be put into the large 
pot and made firm with the rammer. Place the plant in 
an upright position in the centre of the pot, and work more 
soil around it. This also should be rammed firmly, and 
more put in, until the surface reaches to within half-an-inch 
of the top of the pot. This space will be necessary for 
watering. The surface of the old ball of soil will, in perfect 
potting, be covered by about half-an-inch. It is wrong to 
ram the soil above the old ball, or the roots will in all 
probability be destroyed. A good shift for a well-rooted 
plant is given when there is a space of one inch between 
the old ball of soil and the side of the pot. Bulbs such as 
narcissi, tulips and hyacinths are covered so that only 



POTTING AND POTTING SOILS 219 

the tips are seen. The amaryllis should only have half 
its bulb buried ; the cyclamen should be covered rather 








Diagranns. — Potting Plants : i. Depth to pot narcissi and tulips, 2. Depth 
to pot amaryllis. 3. Potting a cattleya (orchid). 4. Depth to pot cyclamen. 
5. Depth to pot liliums, allowing space for top-dressings. 6. Bad potting. 
Not sufficient drainage ; ball of soil too deep ; no space left for watering. 

more than three parts ; the lily should be potted deeply 
in a large pot and be scarcely covered, room being allowed 
for top-dressing. 



Mistakes in Potting Plants 

There are so many wrong ways of doing a thing that 
it is hardly likely that the right way will be found at the 
first attempt. Even in such an apparently simple affair as 
potting a plant there are numerous errors into which the 
novice may fall. The following are the most common 



220 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

mistakes : Using wet, dirty or cracked pots ; using new 
pots which have not been soaked ; omitting to provide 
ample drainage ; failing to put a large crock over the hole ; 
not putting smaller ones above ; throwing the loose soil 
immediately over the drainage before putting in leaves or 
moss ; placing the ball of the plant immediately on the 





Diagram 46. — Potting : i. Thumb used for pressing soil— bad practice. 
Three fingers of each hand should be used as at Fig. 2. 3. A well-potted plant. 
Chrysanthemum in final pot : a, large crocks at bottom ; b, smaller crocks ; 
c, leaves to prevent soil blocking the drainage ; d, a dusting of soot ; e, compost ; 
f, space left for top-dressing ; g, space eventually left for watering ; h, two 
strips of wood on which to stand the plants. 

drainage ; breaking the ball on removing it from the other 
pot ; not extracting the drainage ; putting the ball too 
deep or not sufficiently deep ; setting it too much to one 
side ; crushing it when ramming ; not keeping the plant 
upright ; not sufficiently firming the soil ; not leaving 
sufficient space for water ; leaving the surface lumpy or 



POTTING AND POTTING SOILS. 221 

uneven ; destroying the lower leaves of the plant ; giving 
the plant too large or too small a shift ; using the soil when 
too wet, or too dry, or too lumpy, or too much endowed 
with grass ; putting too much manure in the soil ; not 
properly mixing it ; omitting to pull from the old ball soil 
not taken up by roots ; roughly raking or combing the 
old ball ; potting when the old ball is very dry ; pressing 
the soil with the two thumbs when six fingers may be used. 
These are the more common mistakes in general potting. 

A Stack of Turf 

For the purpose of potting, fibrous loam is greatly in 
demand. This is usually procured from old pastures where 
the land has not been broken for generations, and where 
the roots of the grass form a complete network for several 
inches down. To obtain loam with plenty of fibre for a 
depth of about four inches is the aim of the grower. The 
best time to cut it is in the early autumn, though where 
wire-worm abounds it would be well to leave it until later 
to afford a chance for this pest to hide itself lower in the 
soil. The turf should then be made into a stack by setting 
it with the grass downwards and a layer of well-rotted cow 
manure between the layers of turf. In the course of a few 
months the loam will be thoroughly impregnated with the 
virtue of the manure, and will be more suitable for the 
growth of the majority of pot plants than if no manure had 
been used. 

The method of adding manure at the time of stacking is 
far preferable to mixing it with the soil when forming the 
compost. The stack may be made of a square or an oblong 
shape, and the layers at the top should be so arranged as 
to form a roof for throwing off the water. The bottom on 
which the stack is to stand should be both level and dry. 



222 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

I have seen a stack put on unlevel ground which has toppled 
over in a few weeks. 

Some growers prepare special composts for chrysanthe- 
mums, carnations, etc., by putting layers of wood ashes, 
lime, soot, bones and artificial fertilisers between the turf 






<2 





^^^^^^^^^ 




Diagram 47. — Turf for Potting Soil : i. Poor turf deficient in fibre. 2. Good 
fibrous turf. 3. Turf stack, two layers of turf to one of manure. 4. Turf to be cut 
straight down. 5. Stack with alternate layers of turf and manure. 



at the time of stacking, so that the soil will be well blended 
at the time of cutting. For use the loam should always 
be cut straight down with a sharp spade. It is all the 
better for being left some time before use. By that time 
the grass will have become stifled, and the result will be less 
likelihood of weeds abounding in the pots. 



POTTING AND POTTING SOILS 223 

Ingredients for Potting Soils 

There are many substances used for making up a com- 
post, according to the class of plant to be dealt with. 
Among these we may mention leaf-soil, animal manures, 
peat, sand, charcoal, mortar rubble, wood ashes, brick 
dust, sphagnum moss, oyster shell, bones and bone meal, 
and the many patent plant fertilisers. Of course, all 
these are not put into one compost, or it would, indeed, 
be a peculiar mixture, but if many different sorts of plants 
are grown, and it is desired to grow them well, it will be 
difficult to do without a little of each of them at some time 
or other. 

Leaf-soil and Manures 

Leaf-soil enters largely into well-nigh every mixture. 
Besides giving nourishment of a nitrogenous nature it 
possesses in a remarkable degree the property of retaining 
moisture, and for this reason it is especially suitable for 
forming a compost for seeds, cuttings and young plants. 
The best leaf-soil is that made from oak leaves. These 
should be gathered in the autumn and put into a heap to 
rot. If time be spared it is a good plan to turn them over 
occasionally, but this is not imperative. For use they 
should be passed through a half-inch sieve. Where 
possible, it is better to leave them for two years, so that 
they may pass the sieve more easily. When leaf -soil is 
used for orchids I prefer to prepare them in the following 
manner : Dry -oak leaves are put into a bag, and this is 
placed over the greenhouse boiler, or on the hot-water 
pipes, where the leaves will be so completely dried as to be 
quite crisp. In due course they may be taken out and 



224 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

rubbed through a half or quarter inch sieve. In this way 
they are introduced to the compost in a comparatively 
fresh condition, and will last much longer than if they 
had been allowed to rot. 

With regard to animal manure, horse, cow and sheep 
are more commonly used. Any of these should be passed 
through a half-inch sieve. Horse manure, as is well 
known, is often used for making mushroom beds. After 
having produced a good crop of mushrooms the manure 
will be in an ideal state for mixing in potting soil, for it will 
have lost most of the virulence incidental to freshness. 
Cow manure should be dried, and afterwards broken 
to pass the sieve. Sheep manure may be used in like 
manner. 

Artificial manures are dangerous to meddle with, and 
in using them in potting composts the directions should be 
fully read. Usually it is safe to use a 5-inch potful to 
a barrowload of soil, though more may be used when it 
is known that the strength is not great. The best advice 
I can give is to use the preparations cautiously at first, 
noting at each time the amount used, so that, should success 
attend it, the quantity on the next occasion may be 
similar, or reduced if it has proved to be too much. Bones, 
bone meal and steamed bone dust are often classed with 
artificials. They are slower in action, and may be used 
more freely than specially prepared manures. The 
younger the plant the less stimulant should be given in the 
way of artificial or chemical fertilisers. Indeed, some 
growers will not on any account use them for young plants, 
though I am convinced from positive practice that far from 
injuring the young plants, the admixture of a little artificial 
fertiliser is of considerable benefit to them. 



POTTING AND POTTING SOILS 225 



Peat, Moss and Fibre 

These I have grouped together chiefly because they 
answer in many respects the same purpose — that of re- 
taining moisture. None of them are of any great fertihsing 
value, but for their mechanical action they are in great 
demand. The great drawback to the use of peat is that 
it has a tendency to go quickly sour. This is especially 
the case if the dusty portion is not eliminated. For use I 
should advise that it be broken up, so as to exclude most 
of the dust. The dust may be used for putting on the out- 
side garden, especially near rhododendrons ; but on no 
account should it be used for any purpose under glass. 
Where peat is largely used in a compost the soil will be 
more difficult to mix, on account of its so hanging to- 
gether. It is used chiefly for orchids, azaleas, ericas 
and rhododendrons. 

Sphagnum moss, which is found in boggy woods, is the 
only kind which can be induced to keep alive in a compost. 
For this reason it forms a large part of an orchid soil ; 
for, besides thus retaining more moisture, which the orchid 
will appropriate, it serves as an indication of the need of 
water. When on the top of the compost the moss heads 
show themselves freshly green there is sufficient moisture ; 
but if the green be of a pale colour, approaching whiteness, 
then water will be needed. Cut off the bottom ends of the 
moss, using only the top two inches, or chop the moss into 
fine pieces. In either case weeds should be taken out. 

The fibre mentioned is the refuse from cocoa-nut fibre. 
It is not greatly used for potting, though often for plung- 
ing plants, and for striking cuttings. I have, however, 
found it useful for mixing with leaf-soil and loam for form- 
ing a seed compost. For starting bulbous plants it is also 



226 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

very useful, for the young roots run easily into it, and are 
not torn when taken out, the fibre shaking readily from 
them. 

Mortar Rubble, Wood Ashes, Charcoal 

Mortar rubble is, of course, endowed with a considerable 
quantity of lime, from which most of the virtue will prob- 
ably have departed. Judging, however, by the way it is 
relished by fruit-trees, there must be a certain amount of 
nourishment to add to its mechanical value. I would 
advise its use for all pot fruits of any kind, and also for 
chrysanthemums. It may be passed through a half -inch 
sieve, though for chrysanthemums and for large fruit-trees 
it would be better to eliminate the dust afterwards by using 
a still finer sieve. 

When wood ashes are obtained from the burning of 
wood only they form a valuable fertiliser, but usually 
they are obtained from the garden smother fire, or the burn- 
ing of all kinds of garden refuse, such as tree prunings, 
hedge trimmings, etc. Though they lose in value by this 
means, they are still rich in plant food, and should, after 
being sifted to get out all rubbish, be stored in a dry place. 

Charcoal is chiefly used for the purpose of keeping a 
compost sweet, and might well form a part of every com- 
post. It mixes better if broken so as to pass through a 
quarter-inch sieve. For all those plants which have to 
be content with the same compost for several years it is 
essential. 

Brick Dust and Sand 

These have none other than a mechanical value for open- 
ing and aerating the soil ; though brick dust certainly holds 



POTTING AND POTTING SOILS 227 

the moisture fairly well, and seems to be relished by the 
young roots, which take to it quite readily. Soft bricks 
should be chosen to be crushed, and the dust passed through 
a fine sieve. Silver sand is usually advised for potting 
soils, and although there is no other objection to it, it has 
no such advantage over other kinds as to justify much 
additional expense. The sand obtained from gravel is 
usually coarse enough, and quite as useful. If the sand be 
of a very close texture, so as to be as fine as moist sugar, 
it is better to avoid it. 



How TO Prepare a Compost' 

When preparing a compost the first thing is to get the 
loam chopped up or broken to the required size, and put 
on the bench so as to be only about six to eight inches deep. 
Then sift on to this the necessary amount of leaf-soil. 
Other matters, such as horse manure and mortar rubble, 
may then follow. The artificial manure should be 
sprinkled evenly over the top, and last of all will be the 
sand. It will now need to be turned at least four times, 
though I usually prefer six, especially where artificials are 
used. Turn it well over to one side with the spade, and 
then back again, until it is seen to be properly mixed. If 
too dry at the time of potting it cannot be made sufficiently 
firm, if too wet the result of potting with it will be still 
more disastrous. When in an ideal state it should so hang 
together when pressed in the hand that but a slight touch 
will be needed to separate it. 

Composts for Various Purposes 

I. For seeds and cuttings : equal parts of loam, leaf- 
soil, cocoa-nut fibre and sand, passed through a quarter- 



228 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

inch sieve. 2. For general purposes : six parts loam, 
three parts leaf-soil, one part sand, 3. For special plants : 
five parts loam, two parts horse manure, two parts leaf- 
soil, one part mortar rubble, one part sand. 4. For 
terrestrial orchids (those growing on the ground) : three 
parts loam, three parts peat, one part cow-dung, one part 
charcoal, one part leaf-soil. 5. For epiphytal orchids 
(growing on trees) : three parts peat, two parts sphagnum 
moss, one part leaf-soil, half-part charcoal. These are 
given merely as a general idea of what to use. The 
mixing of a compost is governed to a very great extent 
by the character of the loam which forms the base of the 
compost. If this be of a heavy nature more opening 
matter will be needed ; if very sandy, cow manure may 
be used in preference to any other form. As a general 
idea I like a compost to be fairly open, with not much 
manure in it. Then, when the plant is well established, 
liquid manure may be freely given. 



CHAPTER XXIII 

water for greenhouse plants 
When a Plant Needs Water 

It would be easy to answer that a plant needs water when 
it is dry, but it would be equally easy to find instances of a 
plant being very dry and yet not needing water. Bulbous 
plants, such as amaryllises, nerines, crinums, begonias, 
gesneras, calanthes (using the term bulbous in its widest 
meaning), are allowed to become quite dry, almost to the 
point of shrivelling, during their period of inactivity. A 
plant may be said to need water when in active growth, 
but to need the artificial application of water only at a time 
when the resources of moisture in the soil have been ex- 
hausted, and the plant, lacking the necessary moisture, is 
unable to perform its proper functions. Of course, the 
canons of good culture forbid us to allow a plant to reach 
this extreme state, just as the canons of good sense and the 
demands of good appetite will not allow us to be faint 
with hunger before replenishing our internal larder. In the 
outside garden there is little difficulty in knowing when the 
plants should be watered, and little danger of giving them 
too much, but greater care and more exact knowledge is 
needed in dealing with plants in pots, pans, tubs and boxes. 
There are, however, several well-proved means of ascer- 
taining the need of a plant. It is a very unsafe plan to 
judge of the requirements of a plant by the appearance of 
the surface soil of the pot. This may appear quite dry 
229 



230 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

owing to a few hours' sunshine, while beneath, the soil may 
be amply endowed with moisture. On the other hand, the 
soil may appear moist and yet in reality be in urgent need 
of a renewed supply. When the leaves of a plant droop 
down it should be examined, and dryness will often be 
found to be the cause, though bright sunshine following a 
period of dullness, or the presence at the roots of eel-worms, 
wire-worms or weevils may be responsible for it. When 
the leaves feel flabby, when on being sharply rapped the 
pot gives forth a hollow sound, or when on being lifted the 
plant is below its normal weight, it may safely be watered. 

Mistakes in Watering 

It is a very common mistake to suppose that a plant 
needs water at specified times, such as once a day or three 
times a week. This is altogether wrong. So much in this 
respect depends on the vigour of the plant, the texture of 
the soil, the amount of root-run, the heat of the house, the 
state of the weather and the time of year. There is not, 
nor can there be, any fixed time for watering, and whoever 
endeavours to disregard this rule by watering at specified 
times will be lucky if he can keep the plants alive, and he 
will certainly never attain to that success which should 
be aimed at by every healthy gardener. To deal out the 
water in driblets is another all too common error. Sufficient 
water should be given at each time to saturate the whole 
of the soil occupied by the roots. Knowing as we do that 
it is the tiny root hairs at the extremity of the roots which 
assimilate the moisture, it must be our aim to reach every 
one of these. Other mistakes are watering plants in a cold 
frame when there is danger of a frost, watering hothouse 
plants with cold water, watering with hard water, watering 
newly potted or top-dressed plants without a rose or 



WATER FOR GREENHOUSE PLANTS 231 

sprinkler, allowing the water to fall over the leaves, 
flopping the water on so that it runs away from the plant, 
giving the same amount of water to a cut-back as to a full- 
grown plant, watering in the middle of the day when the 
evening or morning would serve, and allowing a plant to 
become very dry before affording water. In the majority 
of these cases the mistake need but be mentioned for the 
orthodox method to be perceived. 

Practical Precepts in Watering 

It is obvious that in winter less water will be needed, 
and a plant practically devoid of active growth will need 
but little in comparison with a plant plenteously furnished 
with large, expansive leaves. In winter it would be safer 
to regard water as a necessary evil to be avoided as much 
as possible, for when the soil is constantly saturated with 
water it is impossible for the roots to perform their proper 
functions ; the soil becomes sour and the growth sappy and 
useless . In winter it is advisable to water early in the day, 
so that, the surplus water having drained away, the soil 
is warmer during the night, which is usually so much 
colder than the day. At all seasons the best times for 
watering are in the early morning and the evening. The 
reason for not watering during the bright, sunny part of 
the day is that the roots, aided by the warmth and water, 
are made unduly active, and this activity cannot be main- 
tained. This does not, of course, mean that when a plant 
is found to be flagging in the middle of the day it should 
receive no water until the evening ; but it is here meant to 
emphasise the advantages of watering, in the cool part of 
the day, and especially in the evening, when the moisture 
does not quickly evaporate, but surrounds the plant, and 
enables it to drink freely at the roots and inhale with its 



232 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

leaves. When a pot plant has become very dry it is well 
to soak it in a pail of water and leave it until bubbles cease 
to rise. In the case also of small seeds and tender seedlings 
it may be advisable to water by immersing the pan in 
water well-nigh up to the brim, and hold it thus until the 
whole mass of soil becomes damp, instead of watering 
it overhead with a can. 



Pot Rappers 

It is usual to use a pot rapper to ascertain whether a 
plant needs water. The old way was to employ the 




1: 1'.; 




Diagram i,?>. — Pot Rappers : i. Formed of nut put on bamboo cane. 2. Shows 
the shape of the nut. 3. A piece of wood fitted on to bamboo cane as shown 
at Figs. 4 and 5. 

knuckles. Besides being often a painful process, it is im- 
possible to reach the plants on a wide staging, and here the 
rapper becomes necessary. The best form of rapper is 



WATER FOR GREENHOUSE PLANTS 233 

made by screwing a hexagonal nut on a bamboo cane 
and driving a peg through the hollow part left by the pith. 
If the rapper be kept in the shade, or in water, it will not 
quickly become loosened. There are other methods of 
making rappers, such as cutting a stick with a knob at the 
end or fitting a piece of wood in a bamboo cane and wiring 
it on, but I have always found the nut form most suitable. 



the drying off of bulbs, etc. 

The Principle Explained 

The drying off process is governed by this law of growth 
— that the supply of moisture should only be sufficient to 
meet the demand. Now, when a plant has completed its 
yearly growth, and probably also its flowering, it is evident 
that it has little further need of moisture and nutriment. 
But so long as the growth remains on the plant it will be 
draining supplies from the bulb, as not only science but 
practical experience teaches us ; for it will be noticed that 
if water be altogether withheld while the leaves still remain 
on the plant the bulb becomes soft and flabby. As long, 
then, as this growth continues, water must be administered, 
and in most cases feeding will also be necessary to enable 
the bulb to store up sufficient virtue to infuse vigour and 
quality into the next season's flower, which in many 
cases precedes the expansion of foliage. If the practice 
were made of keeping the plants watered when there was 
no top growth and no root action, the soil would become 
sour and the roots and probably the whole plant would 
decay. Thus, besides the waste of time and water, there 
would be also the loss of the plant. Whether the time 
when growth is not apparent be a period of rest or of 



234 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

recuperation, or whether there is any distinction between 
the two terms, is a fitting argument for those of a contro- 
versial turn of mind but is of Httle practical interest. 



The Practice Explained 

On the face of it, it certainly does seem absurd to teach 
people how to dry off plants, especially as this may be 
read on a broiling hot day, when the real difficulty is to 
keep the plants moist enough. But the fact is that there is 
a very wide misconception of the meaning of the process. 
A popular error is to understand the drying off to mean 
that only a small quantity of water is to be given at each 
watering, whereas it means that the soil should become 
well dried before water is given. The period between the 
waterings should be lengthened, but the quantity at one 
time must not be decreased. Throughout the resting 
period, have an eye to the bulb, and see that it retains its 
plumpness and firmness. If allowed to become flabby and 
spongy the ill effects will be seen in the flowers of the 
ensuing season. This, then, is the correct criterion — the 
plumpness of the bulb. Only sufficient moisture should be 
given to preserve that plumpness. If this rule be followed 
in the case of those bulbous plants that submit to the 
treatment, no disaster will arise. 

A Controversy and a Compromise 

The controversy is as to whether it is advisable to dry 
some plants off or to keep them slightly moist throughout. 
This controversy centres round such plants as the cyclamen 
and the amaryllis, and there is much to be said on either 
side, especially as good results attend either method. 
Now, rather than keep such plants dust-dry on the one 



WATER FOR GREENHOUSE PLANTS 235 

hand, or quite moist on the other, I prefer to effect a com- 
promise after the following manner : — After the foliage 
has died down and the plants so completely dried off that 
it is unlikely that more water will be needed, let them be 
plunged in moist ashes beneath the staging of a suitable 
house, and in such a way that worms do not get through 
the bottom, nor water from the plants overhead fall on to 
the crowns. A slight sprinkling of the ashes might also 
be strewn over the tops. By this method the extent of 
dryness is not only arrested, but through the porosity of 
the pots a certain amount of moisture is absorbed by the 
ball of soil. This plan I have followed with success on 
many occasions. In the case of arum lilies the question 
is whether they should be dried off completely or planted 
out. Here also either practice obtains the sanction of 
good growers, but the general and, as I think, the better 
plan, is to plant them out as soon as possible after they 
have flowered. 



Other Items concerning Drying Off 

The most convenient places for putting pot plants 
during their resting period are beneath the stagings, on 
shelves, on the hot-water pipes or in a cool shed. As 
growth is not needed we must give them conditions opposite 
to those advised for germination. Thus, instead of afford- 
ing heat, moisture and closeness of atmosphere, we must 
arrange for a cool, dry, airy place. When it is advised 
to keep plants on the dry side it is but a loose method of 
saying that they resent over-watering, and that the opposite 
state would be preferable. If watered only when they 
really need it, and always when they need it, and then 
copiously, no error will occur. 



236 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



Syringing 

What the soft, growing showers of April do for outside 
plants syringing does for the inside. Moisture forced on 
to a plant in this way frees it from dust, helps to keep down 
insect pests and enables the plant to revel in a moist, 
buoyant atmosphere. In the spring, and when the young 
growth is breaking out, is the time when syringing is really 
needed. The water softens the bark and enables young 
growth to expand rapidly into full leaf. It will be recog- 
nised also that young leaves, which have but just begun 
their life's labour, have not the power to withstand sudden 
outbursts of sunshine, unless there is plenty of moisture at 
hand. This is because the sun naturally absorbs moisture, 
and if none be present on the surface of the leaf, that which 
is in the leaves will be sucked out, and probably at a greater 
rate than the few active roots can supply. Clear rain- 
water only should be used. Spring water, being charged 
with minerals, leaves a deposit on the foHage, which de- 
tracts from their beauty and is difficult to get off. Plants 
in flower, those which are ripening their fruits, those which 
are not in active growth and most of those whose leaves are 
clothed with minute hairs — should not be syringed. 

Avoid buying cheap syringes. They easily become 
dinged and useless. Syringe forcibly with the open jet 
and make a spray by putting the forefinger of the left hand 
in front of the jet. By this method the spray can be re- 
gulated to any degree of fineness and can be directed 
beneath the leaves, where most insect pests make their 
abode. Early morning and afternoon are the best times 
for syringing. When, after some wear, it is found that 
water is drawn back in the syringe it is a clear sign that 
it needs repacking with grease and tow. 



WATER FOR GREENHOUSE PLANTS 237 

Damping Down 

The term is used chiefly in reference to the management 
of a vinery. Here it is usual during the early stages of 
growth to sprinkle water on every available surface in 
order that there may be plenty of moisture in the house. 
This is usually done in the morning, at midday and at the 
time of closing the house in the afternoon. A can supplied 
with a sprinkler should be used, and all the floor, the 
pathways, the stagings, and practically every exposed 
surface should be damped over. Then the moisture will 
be more evenly spread over the whole house. Damping 
down should not be done on dull days, when the pathways 
are already seen to be sufficiently moist or when there is 
known to be plenty of moisture in the atmosphere. Nor 
should this damping be done more than once a day while 
the vines are in flower or when they are ripening. 



CHAPTER XXIV 

feeding and top-dressing 

The Advantages of Liquid Manures 

When a person advocates the use of liquid instead of dry 
manure he is entering on controversial ground, though 
not dangerously so, for the large body of gardeners favour 
the method. There are, indeed, few who would wish 
altogether to pin their faith to the use of solid or of liquid 
manure only, but many deprecate the too frequent use of 
manure in a liquid form as having a tendency to cause the 
soil to become sour. Liquid manure is more or less con- 
fined to the watering of pot plants, though there is no valid 
reason for not using it for outdoor crops. The chief ad- 
vantage is that after a soil has been mixed for potting, and 
the plant potted, there is a difficulty in affording much 
manure after the roots have absorbed all that is in the soil. 
To put on dry fertilisers is certainly a help, but in the 
hurried waterings to which pot-bound plants are too often 
subjected during hot weather there is a danger of their 
being washed over the pot, and thus expense is incurred 
without profitable result. To add a top-dressing of soil 
is not always possible, for perhaps sufficient space has not 
been left at potting time. In such a case the only way of 
giving the plant a stimulant is to give it water in which 
manure of some kind has been steeped. 

Let it not be thought that I am averse to the use of solid 
manures. On the contrary, I hold that when mixing soil 

238 



FEEDING AND TOP-DRESSING 239 

for potting, manure of a chemical and an animal origin 
should be used ; and, furthermore, I strongly advocate 
putting a layer of manure between each layer of turf at 
the time of stacking, for few indeed are the plants to which 
manure in the soil comes amiss. Yet even in such a case 
the virtue of this has departed long before the plant has 
completed its growth, and poor indeed would be the policy 
which would condemn it to a clear- water diet when natur- 
ally thirsting for stronger liquor. 

Manures Used in Liquid Form 

There are few manures which cannot be used in liquid 
state. Cow, sheep, pig, horse, deer and fowl manure are 
frequently used in this way, and the treatment of them is 
identical. But beyond these soot, guano and all kinds 
of chemical manures may be so employed. Soot is a fairly 
safe manure, and can be easily procured. This being so, 
it can be more extensively used. In the case of chemicals 
there are two methods of using them in a liquid form. 
A certain amount, according to the strength, may be put 
loosely into a pail of hot water and left to stand over night. 
This is a very good method, as there is little fear of any of 
the soluble matter being left unused, for most of it would 
lose its solid form under the influence of the combined 
warmth and wet. The other method is to put a quantity 
in a bag, put in also half a brick, tie the bag, and immerse 
it in a tub. This is a slower method, but it is often more 
convenient. It would be wearisome, even if it were useful, 
to give the quantities to be used of each of the proprietary 
manures, for the directions are usually sent with the 
manure, and may be relied on. Nor should the quantity 
be exceeded unless proof has been given by experiment 
that such quantity is not only harmless but beneficial. 



240 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Methods of Making Liquid Manure 

The commonest and usually the most convenient method 
of making liquid manure is to procure a bag of coarse 
texture — a cement bag, for instance, is useless, as the liquid 
cannot pass through. See that it is innocent of holes, put 





HH /J 4 








Diagram 49.— Obtaining Liquid Manure : i. Bag of manure and brick to 
put into barrel of water ; a, stick for poking the bag. 2. Sieve with manure 
suspended in barrel. 3. Zinc framework fitted in barrel, manure to be put over 
and water drawn from bottom. 4. A drain conveying liquid waste from manure 
heap to a barrel sunk in ground. 5. A tank fitted up for the same purpose. 

in some cow, sheep, deer or fowl manure, as the case may 
be, also a brick to keep it at the bottom ; tie it up, put it in 
a tub, and fill the tub with water. A blunt-ended stick, 
like the butt end of a gun, should be kept at hand, so that 
the bag may on occasion be poked about to ensure the 



FEEDING AND TOP-DRESSING 241 

emission of the liquid. Were the stick pointed it would, 
of course, make holes in the bag. 

Another method sometimes used is to get a large cask, 
and after having duly cleaned it — if used for paraffin — 
make arrangements on the inside for a sheet of perforated 
zinc to fit closely against the sides, about one-half of the 
way down. The manure, of whatever kind it be, may then 
be put in and the tub filled with water. In passing, the 
water will, of course, take with it a fair amount of the 
goodness of the manure, and it may in due course be drawn 
from the cask by means of a tap fitted to the bottom. 
Once the arrangement is fitted up this is, perhaps, the 
simplest method of making manure-water. 

It will be noticed that where there is a large heap of 
manure the water in the vicinity during rainy weather is 
highly coloured, oft-times bordering on black. Does not 
this clearly show that a great deal of nutrition is being 
wasted ? And does not it occur that means are available 
for making use of it ? The simplest method, of course, 
is to dig a hole and run the water into this ; it can then be 
bailed out in a bucket. But the best way is to make a 
proper cemented square opening in such a position that 
water will freely flow towards it. In this way much good 
manure-water may be saved. It would, of course, be 
necessary to provide it with an overflow to take away the 
surplus, but in a well-managed garden there would be very 
little to flow away. 

Top-dressing Pot Plants 

It is often advised to top-dress pot plants when well 
established, but there is another method of adding to the 
amount of available nutriment which I term " bottom 
dressing." The method is not often adopted, probably 

Q 



242 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

because it is little known, but for plants in large pots which 
have exhausted the stock of plant food in their compost 
it is a fine aid. We will take as an example a climbing 
plant in a greenhouse. It is already in a large pot standing 
on the greenhouse staging, and has its growths trained to 




Diagram 50. — Top-dressing: i. Space left for top-dressing tomato twice. 
2. A zinc collar (a) put round top of pot to admit of top-dressing. 3. The 
same idea carried out by making a mound of clay {V) over the rim. 4. Bottom 
dressing. Turves (c) set beneath a pot plant for the escaping roots to feed upon. 
5. A box of soil (a?) set beneath for the same purpose. 6. Some soil taken away 
from old cj'clamen and fresh put in its place {e). 



wires on the roof or the end of the house. It is desired to 
afford it more nourishment of a substantial character 
without taking it from the wires. It has, we will presume, 
been top-dressed to the fullest extent, and has the roots 
pushing through the several holes found in the bottom and 
sides of large pots. The pot may be temporarily raised 
up, and a few squares of good fibrous turf laid beneath it 



FEEDING AND TOP-DRESSING 243 

to a thickness of about four to six inches. If this turf 
has been stacked with cow manure between the layers for 
several months its nutritive value will be considerably en- 
hanced. When the turf has been formed into a neat square 
the pot may be placed on it. The roots escaping through 
the hole at the bottom of the pot will revel in such luxury, 
and the result in growth and flower will soon be seen. It 
will be necessary to damp this soil when watering. 

A Space for Top-dressing 

When potting a plant it is usual to leave a space between 
the soil and the top of the pot for the convenience of 
watering. If the plant is likely to remain so long in the 
pot that it will need a considerable amount of nutriment 
over and above that contained in the compost it would be 
wise to allow further space so that soil and manure may be 
added later. There are also other means of providing 
space for top-dressing. The commonest method is to put 
a collar of zinc or tin around the inside of the pot so that 
its upper edge is about an inch or an inch and a half above 
the rim of the pot. Top-dressing material may then be 
added, and there will still be sufficient room left for holding 
water. Another method is to mix clay and cow manure 
in the same manner as is done for grafting, and to form a 
mound over the rim of the pot and rising more than an 
inch above it. This is often done in the case of fruit-trees 
in pots, notably figs. 

A good mixture for general top-dressing would be equal 
parts of loam, leaf-soil and cow manure, with the addition 
of sand or road grit if the loam is somewhat heavy. The 
leaf-soil affords coolness to the roots, which relish it 
greatly. 



244 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



Top-dressing with Chemical Manures 

When top-dressing a plant with chemical fertilisers it 
is a good plan to loosen the surface slightly, but if this 
cannot be done without injuring the roots it had better be 
left alone. A mere sprinkling of the fertiliser will be 
sufficient. Better to give it at more frequent intervals than 
to burn the roots by an overdose. In view of the fact that 
some of these chemicals will injure the leaves of plants, it 
is a safe plan to avoid getting any of it on the leaves, though 
it is only fair to say that the majority of these patent 
fertilisers are not injurious. The time to top-dress with 
fertilisers or with soil and to feed with liquid manure is 
only when the pots are well filled with roots. After a dose 
of chemical manure, watering should be carefully done, or 
the manure will be washed over the pots. 



A Form of Side-dressing 

A method of adding more soil to plants when they have 
well taken hold of the other I have carried out successfully 
with tomatoes. They were grown in a box formed by 
standing 9-inch planks on end eight inches apart. 
When the soil afforded the plants had become well filled 
with roots I have eased back the planks a couple of inches 
on both sides, and, after fixing them firmly in place, have 
filled the space with some good top-dressing soil. 



CHAPTER XXV 

housing, staging and arranging plants 

Housing Winter-flowering Plants 

As frost is likely to occur any time after ist September it 
becomes necessary to speed the arrangements for housing 
such winter-flowering plants as zonal pelargoniums, 
salvias, ivy-leaved geraniums, eupatoriums, tree carna- 
tions and such like subjects. Chrysanthemums may 
usually be left outside with perfect safety until the middle 
of October, and, in fact, as long as the weather is warm and 
fairly dry it is quite as well that the plants remain outside ; 
but, in order that no time may be lost when housing time 
arrives, all preparatory work should be got forward. 

Cleaning the Houses 

The first consideration is that the house be perfectly 
clean. To put clean plants into a dirty house is a plan 
which should find no favour and no excuse with those who 
value the appearance and the health of their plants. If the 
house needs painting, let that be taken in hand at once, and 
let three coats of good paint be applied, filling in every 
crevice, renewing broken glass, applying fresh putty where 
needed, and making good all repairs in iron, wood, stone 
or brick. During this time all shelves, stagings, floor 
trellisings, and everything of a movable character should 
be taken outside, thoroughly scrubbed, and afterwards 

245 



246 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

painted if need be. After the painting has been done the 
pipes should be lampblacked, the walls whitewashed or 
painted, the soil on the floor taken out to a depth of three 
inches, the floor flooded with hot water if insects abound, 
the ventilators and heating valves greased, and the heating 
apparatus flushed out. When this has been done the 
staging may be rebuilt, shelves erected, fresh shingle put 
on the stagings, fresh soil or ashes on the floor, and every- 
thing put ready for the immediate reception of the plants. 

Work Among the Plants 

Opportunity should be taken of favourable weather to 
stake and tie the plants, clean off dead leaves, nip out 
flower buds (in several cases), give a slight top-dressing of 
fertiliser, and wash the outside and bottom of the pots. 
It may happen that the plants are pest infested, and in such 
a case it becomes necessary to syringe, sponge or dust them 
to destroy the evil. Broken pots and labels should be 
replaced, and the stake should be of sufficient strength to 
support the plant until it has given its flower. The wash- 
ing of the pots must be delayed until the last moment, else 
a heavy rain will render them as dirty as ever. 

In all probability there will be other regular occupants 
of the house, and these must be treated so that the housing 
of the outside plants may coincide with a new era of clean- 
liness. If they are infested with mealy bug, thrip or scale, 
they must be gone over with a small brush and some 
methylated spirits, touching each bug or scale, and then 
sponging them with a good insecticide used to the full 
limit of strength directed, syringing the plants afterwards 
with clear soft water. The leaves will scarcely be dry the 
same night, but on the following evening, when all the 
leaves are dry, the house should be closed and fumigated to 



HOUSING AND ARRANGING PLANTS 247 

kill every thrip, mite or other insect likely to succumb to 
this treatment. 



Fumigating a Greenhouse 

The general method of fumigating a greenhouse is by 
means of some preparation in which nicotine enters largely. 
There are several such preparations on the market, and 
there is little to choose between them. An outfit consisting 
of a spirit-lamp, a conical-shaped tin perforated for the 
admission of air, and a saucer for containing the liquid, 
may be cheaply procured. The lamp is half filled with 
methylated spirits, the wick is allowed to stand clear a 
quarter of an inch at the top, and the lamp standing solidly 
on the floor is lighted. When fully aflame the tin frame is 
placed over it, the saucer is put on, and the needful amount 
of liquid poured in. The ventilators must be tightly closed 
and all holes in the roof or sides of the house stopped up. 
The best time for fumigating is in the evening of a still night 
so that the lamp may be left in all night. Some few 
plants are disfigured by this vaporising, such as the young 
fronds of maidenhair ferns. But as these are not usually 
infested with pests which fumigation is intended to kill, 
they may for the time be placed in another house. The 
main item of caution is to see that the dose given is not 
overdone. The directions on the bottles show the amount 
per thousand cubic feet, so no mistake should occur. 

Measuring a House 

The means of ascertaining the cubical capacity of a house 
is to measure its length by its breadth, and the sum by 
the mean height. Thus, if a house be 15 feet long and 10 
feet wide and 8 feet high at the apex and 5 feet high at the 



248 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

eaves, the figure is obtained thus : 15 by 10 equals 150. The 
mean height is obtained by adding 8 and 5, making 13, and 
dividing it by 2, making it 6|. The 150 is then multipHed 




Diagram 51. — Measuring Cubical Contents of Greenhouse : i. Lean-to : 
the heights ab and cd^re added together and divided by 2. The result is 
multiplied by the width bd and the product by the length of the house. 
2. A three-quarter span. Add ab to j e and divide by 2. Multiply result 
hy be and the product by length of house. Again add a b to cd and divide 
by 2. Multiply the result hy db and the product by the length of the house. 
The two sets of figures thus obtained will, if added together, give the con- 
tents of the house. 3. A span roofed. Add ab and cd and divide by 2. 
Multiply result by de and the product by the length of the house. 

by 6 1, making a total of 975, which for all practical pur- 
poses may be regarded as 1000 cubic feet. 



The Actual Work of Housing 

When it comes to the actual work of housing it will 
generally be found that there is barely sufficient room for 



HOUSING AND ARRANGING PLANTS 249 

setting out the plants. This is an annual, in fact, one 
might well say, a perennial, difficulty. In every garden I 
have yet known there has been at this season, and right 
through until the end of spring, a cry for " more glass, 
more glass. " Never yet have I found the gardener who had 
sufficient glass, nor do I yet expect to do so. It becomes 
necessary, then, to crowd the plants somewhat, but rather 
than do this unduly it were better to discard a few of the 




Diagratn 52. — Gives a good idea of staging pot plants. 

poorer plants. It is usual, and it is right, to commence by 
housing the more important plants, so that the burden of 
makeshift is brought to bear on those plants which are not 
so greatly prized. Guided by recent years, it will be known 
approximately how much space may be spared for each 
batch, and the arrangement resolves itself largely into 
a question of arithmetic. Let us suppose there are 
100 plants to be put on a tiered stage with seven 



250 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

shelves. Fifteen are spaced out at equal distances along 
the central or top shelf, and on the lower shelf, by placing 
a plant opposite the vacant space in the top shelf we get 
14 plants. The lower shelf will again contain 15, the 
next one 14, and so on. Thus we find space for loi 
plants, and the odd vacancy will easily be filled by 
an overflow from other plants. 

Presuming then that such a stage has to be filled 
with 100 zonal geraniums, the proper method of pro- 
cedure is to put up the top row, using the tallest plants, 
then the next row on either side. By working round in 
this way, and choosing all the while the larger plants, and 
reserving the best in appearance for the space fronting the 
entrance, it will be possible to stage them evenly and well. 
It is always advisable to count the plants and then to 
arrange them arithmetically according to the space at 
disposal. 

Making Best Use of Space 

As previously hinted, it will be found difficult to accom- 
modate all the plants. But somehow or other this will 
have to be done, even if they do not in all cases find ideal 
conditions. Let overcrowding be the last resort. There 
are many methods of making the utmost use of space. 
Shelves may be put up against the back walls of the green- 
house, and be hung from the roof or the apex. Tiered 
stagings should be used, for by setting plants on slightly 
higher levels there is more head room given them without 
increasing the area. Valuable stage space should not be 
allowed plants which are drying off, or have already done 
so. The space beneath the staging or under the pipes or 
on a shelf in a shed will often suit them quite as well. The 
conservatory should be overhauled, and all worthless or 



HOUSING AND ARRANGING PLANTS 251 

unworthy plants thrown away and their places filled with 
those in flower or progressing rapidly towards that stage. 
By dint of ingenuity it is generally possible to overcome 
the difficulty. 



Hints on Housing Plants 

The following rules may be taken as summarising the 
work of housing. If they be carried out the grower may 
safely congratulate himself on having done his duty : — 
(i) Close the house and fumigate it, while the foliage is 
dry ; (2) sponge and syringe all plants and remove them 
to another house ; (3) stove the house by burning sulphur 
in it but only when it is absolutely empty and closed and 
when the fumes cannot get to an adjoining house ; (4) clear 
out stagings, shelves, shingle and all movables, also three 
inches of soil from the bottom ; (5) wash the house, glass, 
woodwork, ironwork, walls, pipes, and floor, also the 
outside of the house ; (6) repair glass, wood, iron, etc., 
and point walls ; (7) paint all wood, iron, piping, etc., and 
limewash walls ; (8) flood floor with hot water ; (9) wash 
stagings, etc., which were taken out and re-erect them ; 
(10) renew any that are unsound ; (11) wash shingle or 
put in fresh ; (12) put fresh soil or ashes on the floor ; 

(13) sponge again and return plants originally taken out ; 

(14) grease ventilators and heating valves; (15) flush 
out heating apparatus and refill it ; (16) examine air pipes 
and air taps, and look for leakages ; (17) sponge plants 
to be brought in infested with pests ; (18) tie and stake 
if needed ; (19) clean off dead leaves ; (20) wash the pots ; 
(21) top-dress with chemical plant manure ; (22) set plants 
fairly close, but do not overcrowd ; (23) stage them 
evenly ; (24) put shapeliest plants fronting the entrance ; 
(25) fumigate the house when dry. 



252 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

The fatal faults in housing plants are : (i) Neglecting 
to clean the house or the plants ; (2) neglecting to clean 
those plants already in the house ; (3) putting clean plants 
into a dirty house ; (4) putting dirty plants into a clean 
house ; (5) setting the plants unduly close ; (6) not 
calculating the space they will require ; (7) putting in 
plants with broken branches, broken pots or broken labels ; 
(8) placing them in houses or in positions where they will 
have to be removed ; (9) taking them in during fine 
weather when they might have remained outside for several 
days longer ; and (10) allowing too much heat and too 
little ventilation. 

THE DECORATION OF A CONSERVATORY 

A House of Special Display 

I have always had an ambition which I have never been 
able to realise, and although I doubt if many or any of my 
readers also will be able to realise it I would fain give it 
space here as an ideal. That ambition has been to have a 
small house — quite small — ^used solely for the display of 
plants. In this I would arrange plants which had been 
grown in other houses or in frames, and as far as possible 
I would have but one class of plants. For instance, at one 
period the house would be filled with flowering carnations, 
at another with zonal geraniums or with border or Mal- 
maison carnations. A week or two might advantageously 
be given over to the display of cyclamen or of primulas, 
while at another period I would mingle cinerarias with 
ferns and bring back to my visitors memories of the 
Temple Show. 



HOUSING AND ARRANGING PLANTS 253 



The Possibilities of the Plan 

Imagine the possibilities of such a plan, or conjure up, 
if you can, the glorious spectacle of a house of bulbs in 
spring, of achimenes and gloxinias in summer, of chrysan- 
themums or salvias in autumn, and of Lorraine 
begonias or calanthes in winter. Whoever has enjoyed 
lingering in a house devoted to heliotropes or to freesias 
will understand my enthusiasm. The subjects suitable 
for such a plan seem to swarm upon us. Jotting them 
down as they occur, we have roses, liliums, primulas, 
coleuses (the blue-flowering and the ornamental-leaved), 
begonias, amaryllises, cypripediums, schizanthuses, 
calceolarias, show pelargoniums, fuchsias, gesneras, 
azaleas, streptocarpi, etc. 

Modifying the Plan 

More subjects, in fact, are available than could possibly 
be used in such a way during a year ; but the amateur 
gardener, thirsting for fresh subjects, could easily leave out 
for a year such subjects as are grown from seed. Thus, 
instead of schizanthuses, he might have cinerarias, and 
vice versa ; and if something were preferred to the scarlet 
salvia it would be quite easy to grow simply a couple of 
plants to preserve the stock. 

The plan would, of course, be worked according to the 
wish or whim of the owner, and no slavish adherence to one 
class of plants need be tolerated. For instance, with double 
and single geraniums there might also be ivy geraniums 
as standards or in baskets, and interspersed among the 
flowers the scented-leaved pelargoniums could be employed 
with very artistic effect. 



254 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



The Artistic Arrangement of Plants 

It is one thing to grow plants well and quite another to 
arrange them to good effect. Unfortunately, the two 
qualities are seldom found together in high excellence. 
The only explanations I can offer of this is that good culture 
requires that the cultivator be sullen, dogged, determined, 
while in the display of plants it is impulse and imagination 
which betoken success. But this thought should not deter 
anyone from endeavouring to arrange his plants in at any 
rate a pleasing manner. Now to give advice in this respect 
it becomes necessary to deal in generalities, and while 
propounding principles it must clearly be left to the in- 
telligence of the reader to apply them. 

Into the flowering house, of course, all the plants may in 
turn be brought as they become attractive, and while they 
cannot fail to give pleasure there is the strictly utilitarian 
aspect — viz. that while they are being displayed more 
space is available in the growing house for those plants 
which are to follow and keep up the succession. 

There are, of course, several different ways of arranging 
plants, and these are governed by the taste of the owner or 
decorator, and also in a considerable measure by the 
amount of available room, the number and quality of the 
plants and the structural arrangement of the conservatory. 
Personally, I am strongly in favour of so displaying 
plants that while they do not lose their character in- 
dividually yet they show collectively so as to exhibit all 
the beauty of the plants and compel admiration. When 
a fresh batch of plants are introduced to the conservatory 
they would scarcely receive any notice if they were merely 
dotted about promiscuously, but if they are arranged neatly 
and artistically in a group interspersed with suitable ferns, 



HOUSING AND ARRANGING PLANTS 255 

grasses or foliage plants they will be sure of such recogni- 
tions as their cultural excellence and artistic setting 
deserve. 

There are several things to avoid in arranging plants for 
effect. Briefly, they are overcrowding, clashing the colours, 
flatness, too formal an outline, and what we might term 
nakedness, produced by setting the plants too far apart 
or leaving holes in the arrangement. By the use of pots, 
pipes, stands, etc., greater height and prominence may be 
given to many plants and the sense of flatness or heaviness 
thus easily dispelled. When a considerable batch of one 
kind of plant is in flower a bank or mound of them could 
be made as is often seen at shows, and would, besides 
giving pleasure, emphasise both the beauty and the utility 
of the plant in question. 

In all these arrangements, however, the fact that the 
plants will need attention must not be lost sight of, and 
no method will long prove pretty if the plants cannot be 
easily got at. The use of baskets filled with such plants 
as heliotrope, ivy-leaved geraniums, achimenes, lache- 
nalias, ferns, asparagus, sprengeri, begonias, fuchsias, 
campanulas, and similar subjects of a pendulous nature 
will give the house a very pleasant appearance and endow 
it with a wealth of beauty and fragrance. 

Again light pillars can be erected if they do not already 
exist, and to these may be trained many beautiful flower- 
ing plants of a climbing character. The use of standard 
plants in a conservatory allows the flatness to be broken in 
a happy and easy manner as is now done so frequently in 
the outside garden. 



CHAPTER XXVI 

HEATING AND STOKING 

To be really useful, a greenhouse must by some means be 
heated. It is possible to grow plants in an unheated struc- 
ture, but the winter is a very trying time, not only on 
account of the difficulty of keeping out frost, but owing 
also to the great amount of moisture which will accumu- 
late and cause damping off of flowers and foliage. To 
prevent worry the greenhouse should be heated, even if the 
fire is only kept in during the severe weather. 

The First Principles of Heating 

Whoever wishes thoroughly to understand how to keep 
a greenhouse fire so alight that while there is always suffi- 
cient heat there will never be too much, and there will 
never be any serious fluctuations of temperature, must 
set himself to understand the principles of heating. But 
as space does not here admit of an exhaustive treatise on 
the subject, I will confine myself to an explanation of how 
the heat may be steadily maintained. It will be presumed 
that a good boiler has been chosen well above its work, 
that the pipes in sufficient quantity have been fitted, that 
the valves and air taps work freely, that the flues are clear, 
that the boiler and pipes are filled with water, and that 
everything is in readiness for the fire to be kindled. The 
aim is, by keeping a good fire, to heat the water. The 
backbone principle of the heating is that hot water rises 

256 



HEATING AND STOKING 257 

and cold water descends. Now the water by the action 
of the fire will become warm and will rise to the top of the 
boiler, the colder water sinking to the bottom. But in 
due course all the water becomes warm. Then, as the water 
at the top becomes hot it will seek further to expand. This 
can only be done by working upwards through the flow 
pipes. In doing this it will move the cold water there, 
which, by the law of circulation, will flow around through 
the pipes to make up for the cold water which has forced 
its way through the return pipe to replace the heated water 
which has risen. In this way a constant flow is promoted, 
the water throughout becomes warm, and this warmth is 
radiated from the pipes into the atmosphere of the house. 
This is the principle and practice of heating, and all the 
difficulties involved in heating only mean inability to 
procure and to maintain a constant circulation. 

At the highest point in this pipe a small tap is inserted, 
so that it may be opened occasionally for the escape of air. 
Higher than the boiler or any other part of the heating 
apparatus is a small tank by which the boiler is kept well 
filled with water. Though often put immediately over 
the boiler, I prefer it set at the far end of the house and 
connected with the return pipe so that when the fire is 
driving the water does not swell over. Where there 
are several houses the heat is regulated by screw valves on 
both flow and return pipes. A little practice will soon 
teach one how to regulate these. 

How TO Light a Fire 

It may seem unnecessary to give directions for so simple 
an operation, but from experience with people who have 
never before lit a fire in a greenhouse boiler, I know that 
such information is necessary. Having seen that the boiler 



258 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

is filled with water, and flues and ash-box clear, the damper 
should be pushed in. If this be not done it will often be 
found that the draught is so strong that it is impossible to 
keep a lighted match in the boiler. The bars should then 
be covered with several inches of dry straw, and over this 
may be placed some dry wood. Light the straw, and when 
the flame has well taken hold withdraw the damper and 
close the fire door. Wait until the wood is well alight and 
then put on some larger pieces. When with these a good 
blaze is obtained, coke or coal may be added, and the fire 
may be left driving for some time. Not until a good fire 
is obtained and the pipes are well on the way to being 
sufficiently heated should the fire be stopped or slowed 
down. 

How TO Regulate the Fire 

Boilers differ greatly in design, but the working of them 
is usually much the same. When a fire is being fully 
driven the damper is pulled out, the fire doors are shut and 
the doors of the ash-pit are wide open. In this way the 
draught coming into the ash-pit passes through and drives 
the fire and makes directly through the flues to the 
chimney. When a fire is fully stopped the damper is 
pushed hard home, the ash-pit doors are tightly closed and 
the fire doors wide open. To regulate it between these 
extremes means regulating the damper and the doors, and 
this can only be learnt by practical experience, for seldom 
indeed can two boilers be treated exactly alike. Another 
method of immediately stopping a fire when the afore- 
mentioned means are not quick enough is to throw on damp 
ashes or dusty coal. Coke breeze is also a good material 
for the purpose. 



HEATING AND STOKING 259 



Stoking the Fire 

The work of stoking the fire needs some elucidation. 
The right method is to keep the fire well over the bars ; 
it is a great waste of firing to fire on the dead-plate. Free- 
dom from clinkers and ashes is another necessity to a well- 
regulated fire. These are got out by means of a clinker 
bar. The bar, which at one end is furnished with a cross 
piece, is thrust beneath the clinkers so as to uplift them. 
They are then turned over and withdrawn. By re- 
peatedly stirring the fire the ashes are made to escape 
through the bars into the ash-pit, whence they may be 
removed. Clinkers and ashes having been extracted, the 
live coals are levelled, and on these is shovelled more fuel. 
It is not a good plan to put on a great deal at a time, else 
the fire will give little heat for a considerable time, and 
afterwards if clinkers form it will be impossible to remove 
them until the fire has burned down low. 



Banking a Fire for the Night 

To get a fire to last all night, giving a steady heat and 
leaving a workable amount of live coals in the morning, 
is not a difficult matter. It requires only a little experi- 
ence. A large fire will not serve for banking in, for less 
fuel can be put on, and beyond giving out a tremendous 
heat for some little time there is every likelihood of the 
fire being out in the morning. The fire must be low at the 
time. Clear it of ashes and clinkers, rake it level, and 
commence to pile on the fuel. Large lumpy pieces may 
first be used, but as the filHng in nears completion smaller 



26o THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

fuel will be better. At the end some small coal, coke or 
ashes may be put over the face of the fire. The dampers 
should be so regulated that there is but a slow draught. 
Only experience can show exactly the amount of fuel to 
put on and the way of leaving the doors and dampers. 



CHAPTER XXVII 

ventilating, hardening off and shading 

The Principles of Ventilation 

It will, I think, be readily understood that the art of 
ventilation of glass houses, used for the cultivation of fruit 
and plants, is a matter of supreme importance in the 
curriculum of culture. Glass has this peculiarity when 
formed into an enclosed structure, that while it readily 
admits the light and heat of the sun, it stops radiation, or, 
in other words, it does not allow the heat to readily escape. 
This is a great advantage, for by this means the heat of 
the sun may be bottled up for a considerable time, and the 
need for fire-heat is either done away with or considerably 
diminished. It may, however, happen that all the heat 
gained in this way is not required, and the only method of 
regulating the quantity is to reduce it by opening the house 
at the apex to admit of its gradual escape. Apart also 
from the maintenance or reduction of the temperature it 
must be a well-known fact that plants need a supply of 
fresh air, and they should always have as much as can 
be afforded without reducing the temperature below the 
minimum at which the plants are known to succeed. It 
is this fear of giving too much air which causes stagnation 
of the atmosphere and militates strongly against good 
culture, because the plants have nothing to induce them to 
expand. For plant life as for human beings a movement 
in favour of more fresh air is sadly needed. 
261 



262 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



Ventilating a Plant House 

There is a decided difference in the ventilating of a fruit 
house and a plant house, or even that of a hot or a cold 
house. It is, of course, impossible to give such precise 
precepts that any novice may undertake to ventilate a 
house as well as if he had undergone years of experience. 
The most that can be done with the pen is to show some 
faults to avoid and to indicate the general principle of 
ventilation. As much air should be afforded as possible 
without letting the temperature drop lower than the figure 
which is known to be the minimum, with this reservation 
that during bright days the thermometer may safely stand 
10° higher than on dull days and at nights. For instance, 
it is well known that the temperature of stove plants 
should range between 65° and 70°. This is the night and 
the normal figure. With the sun striking upon the house 
the temperature will rapidly rise. When the glass stands at 
75° some air should be afforded at the apex of the house 
— just a little. If it rises still higher the vents may be 
more widely opened, and the endeavour should then be 
to keep the house in the neighbourhood of 80°. During 
dull spells it will be necessary to diminish or entirely take 
off the ventilation to prevent sharp fluctuations of tempera- 
ture. Early in the afternoon the house may be shut up 
entirely so as to bottle up some of the sun-heat, and thus 
render the use of the fire-heat needless until the night. 
To counteract the drying and scorching influence of thus 
closing a house during full sunshine the plants are freely 
syringed, and all available surfaces are damped, so as to 
flood the atmosphere with moisture. 

The ventilation of a cool house, of course, is worked on 
a different principle. To maintain the necessary tempera- 



VENTILATING AND SHADING 263 

ture, closing of the house during the afternoon is not neces- 
sary, and the ventilators are only shut to such an extent as 
to prevent too low a drop of the temperature during the 
night. In connection with a cold house it is also the 
custom to put air on at the bottom of the house, or, to be 
precise, on the sides. Sometimes the side is made to open, 
while at others a shutter is put in the wall, and when opened 
the air passing over the hot-water pipes becomes warmed 




Diagram 53. — Ventilating a Frame : i. Frame tilted at side according to the 
wind. 2. The block set near edge of frame ; will tend to warp the light. 
3. Correct place to set the block or scotch. 4. A frame set on a brick at each 
corner, so that air may get beneath. 5. Shows how to draw back a light. If 
left as shown on dotted lines, the wind can easily blow it over. 

before it plays upon the plants. In the winter- time this 
is a great consideration. In ventilating a plant house it is 
usual to open the top ventilators first, and afterwards the 
lower ones, but in every case both upper and lower 
ventilators opened should be on the same side of the house. 
In a cool house some ventilation should be left on all night, 
and with skilful management it will scarcely be necessary 
to take it off entirely even during a frost up to io°. In 



264 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

the case of a span-roofed house the ventilators on the lee- 
ward side of the house should be opened, with those to the 
windward usually closed. 



Ventilating a Frame 

There are various methods of ventilating frames, such as 
pushing the lights alternately up and down, propping them 
up at the top or at the bottom, tilting them at the side or 
drawing them off entirely. Another method of affording 
a free circulation of air is to stand the frame on four bricks 
— one at each corner — thus admitting air through the space 
left between the bottom of the frame and the ground. 
When propping up the frame either at top, bottom, or side, 
it is essential that the " prop " be placed centrally. If set 
more on one side it will cause the light to warp. 

Methods of Ventilation 

It would, of course, be impossible to give readers an 
idea of the many methods of ventilation, for nearly every 
horticultural engineer has ideas of his own on the subject. 
But they all centre round a few main principles. The old- 
fashioned method of giving ventilation to a house was to 
have the lights slide up and down. This is now well-nigh 
obsolete, and I do not remember having seen any houses 
of recent erection supplied with this method. The plan 
was to form lean-to houses against a convenient wall, 
and to have the top lights slide down and the bottom ones 
up, something after the style of a casement window. 
The great drawback to this plan is that the lights must 
always be closed during rain, or the plants will get wet and 
the house and its occupants a prey to damp. Undoubtedly 
the best system is that by which the lights at the top of the 



VENTILATING AND SHADING 265 

house are uplifted for the whole length of the house, and 
where the lights also at the front open outwards by means 
of hinges affixed at the top. It is not a wise plan to have 
only every alternate light to open. Better by far have 
them open the whole length, so that the house can be fully 
aired. The remark applies likewise to the lower venti- 
lators. In a span-roofed structure the top lights on both 
spans and the bottom lights at the sides should be made 
to open, or the ventilation would have sometimes to be 
put on the windward side. In a plant house provision 
should also be made for the air to be admitted at a point 
(in the wall) where it will be forced to pass over the hot- 
water pipes before reaching the plants ; but this does not 
do away with the necessity of the lower lights being made 
to open, for they will be required when a full flood of air 
is needed. 

Whether the lights be manipulated by means of a screw 
or a lever matters little, though personally I prefer a lever 
which, with the aid of a bolt screwing against the bar, can 
be held in any position. The screw system is strong, but 
somewhat longer to work and requires frequent greasing. 



Hardening Off 

Readers have been often advised to harden off plants, 
and it is presumed that they understand the meaning. 
But while realising its meaning they may not exactly know 
how to set to work. Many of the subjects which are to be 
hardened off for eventual planting in the outdoor garden 
are not in the natural way likely to be killed by frost ; 
others can under ordinary conditions stand several degrees 
of frost without injury, while others again, though un- 
injured by cold, yet are too tender to live during frost. 



266 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



The Reason for Hardening Off 

It may be wondered why there should be any necessity 
for hardening off plants which are of a hardy character 
or come under the category of hardy plants. Well, the 
probability is that they have been raised in much heat in 
order to forward them when progress in plant life outside 
would be so slow as to be almost imperceptible. Having 
been thus accustomed to a high temperature, it would 
mean either positive loss or a very certain and severe check 
to put them straight away out in inclement or cold weather. 
It is thus that the hardening off becomes necessary. When 
plants are hardened off in a correct manner they may be 
removed by stages from a temperature of not less than 60° 
to the outside, where it would sometimes go below freezing 
point without any perceptible check, and probably with 
considerable advantage to their constitution. Some such 
method is absolutely essential when the plants have to be 
set outside fairly early in the season. 



How TO Harden Off Plants 

This is, of course, the main point for amateurs. For 
the sake of more perfect illustration it will be presumed 
that the plants are in a temperature of 65° (which is re- 
garded as a stove heat), and have eventually to be set out in 
the open ground. The first stage is to remove them to a 
cool greenhouse, where the normal temperature would be 
about 50° ; but even here it is advised that they be set in 
a part where the cold air through the ventilators will not 
play directly on to them. After a few days they may be 
put in a more airy part. The next removal will be to a 
cold greenhouse or a cold frame, but for a couple of days 



VENTILATING AND SHADING 267 

very little air will be allowed. Then admit more air, and 
later draw back the lights during fine weather. After a 
few days of this treatment air may be left on at night, and 
a little later the lights may be removed entirely, unless a 
severe frost is imminent, or snow. But even when stand- 
ing in a cold frame plants are not so fully exposed as they 
will be when set out in the ground, so that it is advised 
afterwards to set the plants in the open at a nice distance 
apart, so that sun, air and wind may get freely between 
them ; but for a while it is a good plan to make arrange- 
ments for covering them with mats should danger from 
frost be anticipated. The final stage, of course, is to leave 
them entirely unprotected and to set them out in the open 
ground. 

Shading the Greenhouse 

In order to protect plants from scorching, or to prevent 
the too rapid withering of the flowers, it will be necessary 
to provide some means of breaking the brilliance of the 
sunshine. There are several methods of shading, and while 
the best is undoubtedly the cheapest, it is at first consider- 
able in cost. It cannot be gainsaid that lath-roller blinds 
are the best. Once they are put up there is little fear of 
their breaking, they will well withstand weather, and in 
the winter will aid in keeping the cold out. The best plan 
in fixing them is to let them run down on iron rods, at 
least six inches clear of the glass. A point to remember is 
to put the pole in an easy position for rolling up, so that it 
will roll up evenly. It is necessary to renew the cords at 
least once a year. 

Canvas blinds, though by no means ideal, are better 
than a permanent shading. Tiffany is also useful, though 
very apt to tear and to rot when left down during showers. 
The ordinary archangel mats are altogether too heavy 



268 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

for most plants, and there is danger of glass breakage during 
windy weather if the weights used to keep them on be not 
heavy enough. 

A permanent shade may be made by mixing slaked lime 
with sour milk. It should be brought down to a fine wash, 
and if put on when the glass is clean and dry it will wear 
well throughout the season. It can be put on more easily 
than the advertised mixtures, and for all practical purposes 
it is preferable. The objection to this form of shading is 
that during sunless periods the plants are robbed of much 
sunlight which they would relish, and are thereby rendered 
less robust. All plants which show a disposition to flag 
should be shaded, if they cannot be kept erect by dewing 
them over with a syringe ; for I find that such plants as 
do not in the ordinary course need shading are best lightly 
sprayed over when they flag. Often this will bring the 
leaves up again. If not, the shading must perforce be used. 



CHAPTER XXVIII 

STAKING AND TYING 

There are a great many greenhouse plants which require 
stakes in order to keep them erect, and on account also of 
the greater amount of shifting to which they are subjected, 
it is advisable to stake them if they exhibit any tendency 
to lop about. There are two methods of staking which 
are greatly used, according to the varying circumstances. 
One is to put a stake to each shoot, and the other is to 
place a stake in centrally and to sling the shoots to this. 
The former method makes the plants look larger, and it is 
advised that it be done in the case of worthy specimens ; 
but when the aim is a massive display rather than the 
exhibition of the individual plant it would save time, and 
be by no means prejudicial to artistic effect, to use but one 
stake. This might be done in the case of chrysanthemums, 
and especially with that pretty and deservedly popular 
begonia, Gloire de Lorraine. Yet another method of 
staking and one commonly used for bulbs, such as narcissi, 
freesias, etc., is to put four stakes round the pot and to 
twine some raffia grass round them, thus enclosing the 
plant. 

Material for Staking and Tying 

Undoubtedly the best stakes for the majority of purposes 
are bamboo canes, which can be bought in varying lengths, 
and besides being neat they last for a considerable time. 
269 



270 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Short pieces split into four come handy for staking short 
stuff. Other stakes, such as hazel, can often be got from 
a wood, or bought cheaply. If a privet hedge be allowed 
to grow somewhat before being clipped, it will afford useful 
stakes for a variety of purposes, if the leaves be stripped 
off and the bark peeled from that part which is to be 
beneath ground. The economic amateur gardener will 
find a use also for the prunings of apple and pear trees. 

The best materials for tying are tar-twine and raffia grass. 
The former may be had in various sizes, and the latter, 
which is an improvement on the old bass matting, can be 
cheaply bought in bundles. Raffia tape, which can be 
bought in reels, does not fulfil all the advantages claimed 
for it, and is not likely to come into general use. Carpet 
thread will be found of service when it is especially desired 
to make the tying material invisible. Green twist is also 
a good tying material. 

How TO Tie Plants 

Simple as it may seem, it takes some time to get into the 
way of t3dng plants securely, neatly and quickly. Almost 
every young man whom I have initiated into the gentle 
art of tying has given an affirmative answer when asked if 
he could tie a knot ; but they all failed to do it without a 
lot of finger-fumbling, and usually ended in making a 
granny's knot instead of a reef knot. The raffia may be 
split according to the strength of the subjects to be tied, 
or according to the strain to which it is likely to be sub- 
jected. It may then be deftly twisted in the fingers to 
reduce its apparent size and increase its strength, and after 
the tie has been made the raffia should be cut so that the 
remaining ends are less than a quarter of an inch in length. 
In cases where the tie is likely to slip down it is advisable 



STAKING AND TYING 271 

to pass it once right round the stake. Plenty of room must 
be allowed for the swelling of the branch. To tie so tightly 
that no allowance is made for an increase in the circum- 
ference or diameter of the branch is a far too common 
mistake. 

Mistakes in Staking and Tying 

Unless timely tying is practised the appearance of the 
plants will be spoiled. There is scarcely any sadder sight 
in a garden than the attempt to bring into shape plants 
which, through being allowed to fall and lop about, have 
their growth anything but upright. In tying chrysanthe- 
mums, for instance, it is a frequent error to make the tie 
some six inches from the point of the shoot, whereas it 
should be made as high up the shoot as possible, so that 
considerable growth must be made before another tie is 
needed. Failure to drive the stake well into the soil, or, 
in the case of pot plants, right down to the crocks, is 
frequent, and the consequences may be readily imagined. 
It only needs mention to show what a disastrous mistake 
it is to drive a stake through a plant, as could easily be 
done in the case of lilies and other plants of a bulbous 
nature. To use stakes out of proportion to the size of the 
plant, to tie too loosely, to put in the stake obliquely 
(except sometimes with pot plants), to leave long ends to 
the tie, to pull the plant out of shape, to crowd the growths, 
to enclose the leaves, to tie branch to branch instead of to 
the stake, to use crooked or knotty stakes — these are some 
of the mistakes which must be avoided. 

Special Devices 

Being rather a tiresome and laborious work, it is small 
wonder that many have exercised their inventive genius 



272 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

with a view to lessening the work of tying and staking. 
So far, nothing very revolutionary has happened. There 
are certain advantages in the wire coil stake, in the patent 
clip, and in the wire arrangement for enclosing the plant ; 
but when all has been said in their favour we have sadly 
to admit that nothing has yet been shown to wholly super- 
sede the stake and the tie. There is scope for inventive 
genius here. 



CHAPTER XXIX 

CARE OF YOUNG PLANTS 

A VERY critical time in the life of a plant is that which 
follows on its germination from seed. A seed will often 
germinate under conditions which would spell ruin to young 
plants, and it is fairly safe to assert that most failures in 
plant culture date their existence from some error com- 
mitted shortly after germination. The essential conditions 
or requirements of young plants are air and light, with 
sufficient, but not overmuch moisture, and enough heat 
to keep them gently moving, without undue hurrying. 
These principles are grossly violated when the glass or 
paper coverings are kept on too long, so that growth does 
not take on its natural green colour ; when the surface 
soil is allowed to become dust-dry ; when the seedlings 
are kept far from the glass or beneath the shade of over- 
hanging foliage ; when they are placed directly over hot- 
water pipes ; when they become subjected to drip, or to 
an over-amount of moisture from syringing ; when they 
are suddenly removed to cold conditions ; and when they 
are allowed to grow up in a crowded condition before being 
pricked off or thinned out. The remedy to all these errors 
is apparent. 

It cannot be too strongly urged that young plants must 
have careful and constant attention. To postpone atten- 
tion in the matter of removal to good conditions for several 
days cannot fail to have a bad effect on the plants. Old 
plants may bear neglect, but it will never do for young 
s 273 



274 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

ones. Personally, I like to prick off most young plants as 
soon as they can be handled, without waiting for the rough 
leaf to appear, though this advice would not be safe for 
those of abnormally slow growth. It applies, however, to 
most half-hardy annuals and to most vegetables which 
are started under glass. 

Another item worth mentioning is that no stimulants, 
either in the water or the soil, should be given to very 
young plants, whether raised from seeds or cuttings. 
This would almost equal in folly the giving of flesh meat 
to infants. 

Hence we may sum up the advice relative to the care 
of young plants by saying that they ought to be closely 
attended to in every matter, and when any operation is 
needed it should not be delayed. Until the plant has both 
a good top growth and a well-finished root system, it cannot 
safely be neglected in the smallest degree. 

The reward of good attention is strong, healthy, robust 
growth, capable of carrying the plant safely through the 
various and inevitable vicissitudes of its life. 



Pricking Out Seedlings 

For by far the majority of such seeds as are used for 
making the flower garden beautiful, and the vegetable plot 
useful, pricking out is needed ; for it is impossible to sow 
them in such a way as to leave the resulting plants a suit- 
able distance apart and at the same time ensure economy 
and success. Pricking out, moreover, is a work which 
cannot be delayed. If we are to have sturdy, bushy plants, 
we must treat them well in their young stages. To allow 
the seedlings to lengthen in the stem is to court failure 
in several ways, for the growth becomes thin and scarcely 
self-supporting, while in the endeavour to get them to 



CARE OF YOUNG PLANTS 



275 



stand up well there is a temptation to bury them deeply, 
with harmful results. As soon as it is seen that the seeds 
have germinated, the protective covering should be re- 
moved, and (unless the subject be one which naturally 




fram 54. — Pricking Off Seedlings: i. Types of seedlings ; a, good 
seedlings for pricking off; b, seedlings which have become drawn. 
2. Seedlings pricked out too closely. 3. Set a nice distance apart. 
4. Boxes set close to glass after pricking out.- 5. A frame for pricking out 
— soil being set over a bed of half-decayed leaves. 

resents strong sunshine) full exposure to light and 
proximity to the glass should be brought about by putting 
them on a shelf. When the rough leaves are formed is the 
best time for pricking out, as there is then little danger of 
injuring the few roots which will by then have been made. 



Soil and Receptacles for Pricking Out 

As for seed sowing and for cuttings, a light sandy soil is 
best for pricking out, though the rule applicable to seeds 



276 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

and cuttings — that there be no manure of any kind in the 
soil — need not be strictly enforced. A small addition of 
horse manure from an old mushroom bed will do no harm 
to most plants, but will help them to push away gladly. 
The use of chemical fertilisers in soil intended for pricking 
off is not to be recommended. A good mixture would be 
three parts loam, three parts leaf-soil, two parts sand and 
one part horse manure. In the case of seedlings raised in 
the greenhouse it is usual to prick them off into boxes. 
These boxes may be made of any convenient size and shape 
■ — a good size would be about 2| feet by i foot, which would 
accommodate sixty to sixty-five plants. Another useful 
size is 2 feet by 15 inches, which will usually accommodate 
seventy plants. Two or three inches apart is the usual 
distance at which to set the plants. In no case would I 
recommend the use of a dibber for pricking off. The 
index finger is far more serviceable, for with its use the 
roots are not so cramped up, and the work may be done 
quite as quickly. Moreover, there is not the same need 
for firming the plants as when inserting cuttings. 

Frame for Pricking Out 

Where facilities do not exist for the use of boxes- — which 
are rendered more useful by the fact that they can be 
carried to the beds — a frame may be set up for the purpose. 
It will, let us presume, be standing on a hard bottom, so 
that it will be necessary to put in some soil. Before the 
pricking-off soil is put in it is advised to cover the bottom 
of the frame with leaf-soil or with mushroom manure. 
Over this may then be spread the soil, which will need to 
be firmed. If nothing is put at the bottom of the frame, it 
is quite likely that the roots of the young plants will be 
made to rest directly on the hard ground, whereas with 



CARE OF YOUNG PLANTS 277 

leaf-soil or mushroom manure they have a moist rooting 
medium at their disposal. When pricking out in a frame 
or on a patch of ground in the open it is necessary to have 
two boards — one to kneel on and the other on which to 
set the toes. Immediately after pricking out, the plantlets 
should receive a good watering, and if the weather be 
bright a light shading for a day or so will help to pull them 
together again. Pricking off and removal to a lower 
temperature should not come too closely together. The 
young plants must have time to gathei themselves up after 
one check before they are called upon to withstand another. 
A week should elapse before the young plants are brought 
to a lower temperature. 

Ill-health in Plants 

Those who make a point of having plants in their 
windows frequently complain about their looking sickly. 
There may, of course, be many causes for this. It is 
charitable to suppose that the fumes of gas or of oil lamps 
or the fluctuations of temperature bring the mischief ; 
but if truth be looked upon as a greater virtue than charity, 
it would be well to ascribe it in the majority of cases to 
over-watering, and consequent sourness of soil. In the 
endeavour to do the plant good and bring about a state 
of good health, it is usual to give it some stimulant in the 
way of artificial manure, or the well-nigh inevitable dose 
of cold tea, or to put it into another pot. To give such a 
plant stimulants of any kind is altogether wrong and tends 
to hasten its death. Plants in ill-health resemble people 
in this respect, that in order to bring about a state of 
robust health it is necessary to treat them as if they were 
again quite young. They should be afforded a slightly 
warmer temperature, be kept close and free from draught. 



278 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

be lightly shaded, and in many cases have most of the old 
soil taken from them and replaced with new. Added to 
this, they should be sparingly watered and freely syringed. 
Many plants maybe nursed back to good health in this way, 
but as with human beings it is safe to say that after an 
illness a plant has had its constitution undermined and 
cannot be so healthy as if the ill-health had not occurred. 
Contrary to the opinion of some, it may be remarked that 
once the leaf of a plant goes yellow it will never regain its 
original greenness. 



PART VI 

MISCELLANEA 



CHAPTER XXX 

THE amateur's FRAME 

Value of a Frame 

I HAVE on frequent occasions drawn the attention of 
amateurs and small growers to the great value of a cold 
frarne in a garden. For the purpose of furnishing plants 
for the outside garden, be they flowers or vegetables, 
a frame is almost as useful (relatively to its size) as a green- 
house. Certainly I would consider it a very great viola- 
tion of the laws of economy to try to manage a garden 
without a frame. Let us recapitulate the many purposes to 
which a cold frame — that is, an ordinary wooden frame — • 
may be put. It can be placed on a hotbed for the purpose 
of sowing seeds and rooting cuttings, for growing 
cucumbers and melons and for forcing seakale, rhubarb, 
asparagus, lettuces, carrots, radishes. It may be used 
for growing potatoes, dwarf beans, turnips, beetroot ; 
for forwarding onions, cabbages, cauliflowers, leeks, 
celery, tomatoes, peas, broad beans, runner beans ; 
for sweet-peas and the general run of bedding plants. It 
may be employed in the autumn for rooting cuttings 
of violas, pentstemons, antirrhinums, calceolarias, 
marguerites and fuchsias ; or for plunging bulbs in pots, 
strawberries for forcing, carnations for planting out, also 
Canterbury bells and campanulas grown for the green- 
house ; for cuttings of hardy shrubs and roses, and for all 
kinds of hardy plants grown along in pots for planting in 
the rockery and herbaceous border in spring. 
281 



282 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

A frame is also useful for wintering cauliflowers and 
lettuces, for layering carnations, for pricking off all kinds 
of young seedlings or rooted cuttings in spring, for violets ; 
and for growing a very large number of greenhouse plants 
during the warmer part of the year, such as pelargoniums, 
cyclamens, primulas, freesias, carnations, chrysanthe- 
mums, calceolarias and numerous other plants. With 
all these possibilities surely there is no further need for me 
to emphasise the great value of a cold frame. 

The Miniature Frame 

I have in a previous chapter spoken of the value of a 
miniature frame as distinguished from a makeshift frame. 
Many amateurs have that yearning for glass which is so 
prevalent among those seriously afflicted with that popular 
disease known as a love of gardening. But this yearning 
cannot in many cases be satiated by the erection of a green- 
house and they have therefore to be content with a frame. 
When even this luxury is denied them the only thing 
possible is a miniature frame. Even with a small frame 
there are many possibilities, for, excepting in size, it is as 
useful, and fulfils the same purposes as a larger frame. 
It will scarcely be large enough for melon and cucumbers, 
but will serve most of the other purposes mentioned above. 

Making a Miniature Frame 

The making of a miniature frame involves no great 
expense. Any handy man with a few carpenter's tools 
will soon put one together. The only difficult part is the 
light. It will probably be possible to buy one of these 
second-hand, or, if a local joiner were asked for a price, it 
is unlikely that the figure would be abnormally high. 



THE AMATEUR'S FRAME 



283 



The frame should be built of fairly solid material, and 
should be so arranged that there is a slight fall from back 
to front to throw off the rain. There should also be guides 
at[the side to keep the light in place when it is being pulled 




Diagram 55. — Protecting Cold Frame from Frost : i. Section of 
frame. 2. Plan of frame. Letters apply to both figures : a, frame ; 
b, ashes or soil ; c, wood built up round the frame ; d, posts to 
support the wood ; e, litter put over the lights ; /, mat to keep litter 
in place. 

up and down. Beyond this the frame should be fairly air- 
tight and painted to increase its durability. With such a 
frame, no matter how small, the owner should have many 
advantages over those who have no such convenience. 



284 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



Protecting a Cold Frame from Frost 

When our old friend Frost (for really he is not an enemy) 
has commenced paying us frequent visits it will be neces- 
sary to protect plants in a cold frame. For a moderate 
frost and for plants which are almost hardy the mere fact 
of closing the lights will suffice if the light be in good repair. 
But later, when frost becomes more severe and longer in 
duration, it will be necessary to cover the frame with a 
mat, or even to take stronger methods of protection. Let 
us consider how to protect the occupants of a frame 
from 20° to 30° of frost. The woodwork of the frame 
would scarcely be of sufficient thickness to withstand 
this, so it is advised that a lining be formed. Posts are 
driven and boards put round so as to enclose the frame on 
its four sides, but to leave a space of about a foot between 
the frame and the outer woodwork. This space is then 
filled with soil, ashes, leaves or litter, and will effectually 
keep out all the frost we are ever likely to get. But we 
have also the light to consider. Really the best covering 
for these is some heavily thatched hurdles ; failing these, 
about a foot of litter may be spread over, taking care not 
to break the glass with the fork. The straw may be 
covered and kept in place by means of a tarpaulin or mat. 

The Care of a Frame 

Quite a respectable little booklet could be written on the 
subject of the amateur's frame, but to do anything like 
this here would mean a considerable amount of repetition 
and overlapping, and is not necessary. After what I have 
pointed out regarding the possibilities of a frame, surely I 
may expect that readers who have not got one will proceed 



THE AMATEUR'S FRAME 285 

to purchase. Hence it becomes incumbent on me to give 
a few hints on the management of a frame. The great 
danger with frames is that plants will suffer from damp- 
ness during winter or from scorching during summer and 
the one and only remedy for both these faults is plenty of 
fresh air. It is scarcely likely during the winter that there 
will be any plants in the frame which cannot be subjected 
to a full flood of air. Therefore I advise that the frame be 
ventilated freely whenever the glass is above freezing point. 
In fact, during dry weather it is advisable that the lights 
be drawn right back. But they must be put on again 
during fain and frost. It is safe to say that very little 
water will be needed during winter, but the following pre- 
cautions may be taken. With pot plants the pots should 
be so set that they do not touch, so that the pot rapper 
may be got among them to test each pot. Only those 
which show unmistakable signs of needing water should 
receive it, and then it should be afforded in such a way that 
the foliage be not made wet, that water be not spilled about, 
and that none be allowed to flow over the rim of the pot. 
Furthermore, only a fine day should be chosen for watering, 
and the best time is the morning, so that the plants may dry 
before night. To further strengthen the armour of defence 
against the insidious enemy, dampness, it would be well to 
look over the plants occasionally, pick off all decayed leaves, 
loosen the soil, wipe the green slime off the pots, and dry 
the trellis on which they stand. If these means do not 
allow the grower to keep his plants — well, he may place the 
blame where he will, but certainly it will be neither his nor 
mine. 

I would like to emphasise the importance of choosing a 
dry bottom on which to stand the frame, and an open 
position. Cold is not our enemy, but dampness ; and 
this dampness it is impossible to dispel if the bottom of 



286 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

the frame be merely garden soil or if it be put beneath the 
shade of a wall or a tree. Other important points are 
that there be no means of water draining into the frame, 
but, on the contrary, facility for its being taken out. To 
render the frame dry, let its four corners be stood upon 
bricks. Brick rubble or clinkers should then be put in 
until they are level with the bottom of the frame. Then a 
trellis bottom could be stood firmly over the rubble, and 
on this the plants would stand. Added to these precautions 
against dampness, the light must be in good repair, else 
every other precaution is wasted. 



CHAPTER XXXI 

GREENHOUSE PESTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION 

As in the outside garden, so in the greenhouse, the number 
of pests is far greater than might be imagined, and though 
I think none are wholly ineradicable they are so difficult to 
get rid of that few go to such extremes or adopt such 
drastic measures as to eradicate them. The general means 
of eradication, or at any rate of checking their progress are 
dipping, sponging, fumigation, spraying, trapping and the 
adoption of preventive measures. Before giving a few 
words on each of the pests I might refer in general terms 
to these methods which will save me a considerable amount 
of repetition. I have already dealt with the question of 
fumigation, so need not now refer to it. In dipping, 
sponging and spraying we deal, of course, with insecticides. 
These proprietary preparations are many of them excellent, 
and most of them fulfil their purpose, so that it would not 
be fair to mention any in particular. A glance at the well- 
filled advertisement pages of the gardening papers will 
afford plenty of choice in the matter of preparation for 
the extermination of pests of all kinds. Whatever mixture 
be chosen, it is the wisest plan to use it strictly according 
to directions. It is neither safe to the plants nor fair to 
the vendor to use it in greater proportion. Warm soft 
water is preferable for mixing insecticides, and for ensuring 
a thorough fusion the syringe should be used. Draw up 
a syringeful and force it back again into the can or bucket. 

. 287 



288 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

In this way it will soon become thoroughly mixed. 
This precaution is especially necessary when paraffin 
forms part of the mixture, as it often does in home-made 
insecticides ; for the oil has alwa5^s a tendency to float on 
the top and may in this way be used in excess. I think 
the safer way to measure out insecticides is by noting 
how many parts of water to one part of the preparation. 
Whenever traders give the quantities in pints, half-pints, 
etc., I like always to translate it into parts, and to mark 
the can this way. Thus, if half-a-pint is recommended to 
two gallons, knowing there are thirty-two half-pints in two 
gallons, we mark the can i in 32. Then, whether we 
have a cup of a standard measure or not we can be sure of 
putting in the right quantity by putting, say, one 3-inch 
potful of the preparation and thirty-two 3-inch potfuls of 
warm soft water. When sponging plants care must be 
taken not to tear off the leaves, and it must be remembered 
that the underside of the leaf is usually the happy hunting 
ground of these pests. When plants are dipped they 
should be turned upside down, the hand being held over 
the top surface of the ball of soil and the pot that it does 
not come from its pot, and the plant should be moved about 
for a while in the bucket or tub to enable the insecticide 
to penetrate everywhere. After spraying, sponging, or 
dipping it is always advisable, on the score of safety, to 
syringe the plants with clear soft water. A special nozzle 
should be fitted to a syringe for spraying, as by giving such 
a fine spray it not only wets every part of the plant 
thoroughly but also economises the mixture, which in 
some cases is rather expensive. 

Ants. — Though very interesting little creatures, they 
often become quite a plague to gardeners by getting on 
to ripe fruit, especially peaches. Undoubtedly the best 
remedy is to pour boiling water into their nests, when these 



PESTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION 289 

can be found ; but where they cannot be found, or are in 
such a place that boiling water cannot be poured on they 
must be trapped by setting some tempting baits for them, 
such as pots smeared with jam, fresh bones, etc. When 
found, the simplest method is to scald them with boiling 
water. They may often be kept from getting to the fruit 
by tying cotton wool around the branch or setting a grease 
band on the stem of peach-trees. 

Black-fly. — Rather troublesome with chrysanthe- 
mums in the summer months. It gets into the points of 
the growths and, of course, cripples them. An easy remedy 
is to dust the points with tobacco powder or to syringe 
them forcibly with quassia extract. If taken in hand in 
the first instance there should be no difficulty in keeping 
the pest in check. 

Bees. — These can hardly be called pests, because they 
do so much good in setting the fruit. A fruit grower loves 
nothing better than the hum of bees around his trees when 
fully in bloom. But we are not so anxious to have our 
flowers set seeds because their beauty so quickly departs. 
That is why bees become a nuisance when they visit our 
freesias, causing them quickly to wither, or tear open 
our choicest carnations. The only remedy is to screen 
the plants from them by means of muslin or to keep 
them out of the greenhouse by tacking tiffany over the 
ventilating spaces. 

Beetles. — ^An unqualified pest, for they eat many plants 
in the greenhouse. Special beetle traps may be bought and 
will account for a great many, but many may be killed by 
going into the greenhouse at night and turning a strong 
light quickly upon the floor or the staging, wherever they 
are likely to be. Phosphorus paste will also account for 
a great many. Cockroaches may be got rid of in the same 
way. 



290 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Begonia Mite. — Will be found troublesome by those 
who grow these beautiful plants in quantity. By far the 
best course to adopt where only a few plants are grown is 
to throw away the plants and get fresh ones in. Other- 



a 




ir 





Diagram 56. — Begonia Mite : a, larva ; b, perfect mite (highly 
magnified) ; c, leaf of begonia attacked. 

wise the leaves may be sponged with Gishurst compound 
and be frequently dusted with sulphur. Almost any in- 
secticide containing sulphur will be useful against this 
minute but destructive pest. 

Cattle YA Fly.— Those who grow a number of orchids 
will perhaps find this pest troublesome. There are two 



PESTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION 291 

distinct kinds, one attacking the growths and the other 
the roots. Many may be got rid of by cutting off all 
swollen roots and growths. This seems to be the only 
effective way, although it may mean the sacrifice of several 
plants. I have known the fly which attacks the roots to 
be entirely got rid of by cutting off every root and starting 
the plants afresh. 

Cockroaches. — May be got rid of in the same way as 
beetles. 

Crickets. — Also a nuisance in the greenhouse, as they 







Diagram. 57. — Damping Off: i. Seedling damped off. 2. Geranium 
cutting damped off. 3. Healthy tomato and one damped off. 4. Healthy 
and damped off young chrysanthemum. 

eat seedlings and disfigure the leaves of plants. I have 
found the V.T.H. slug traps very useful for catching these. 
Last season I set one of these traps for slugs in a cucumber 
frame, and besides a few slugs I found next morning 
sixty-seven crickets. Naturally I was overjoyed unex- 
pectedly to come across this means of combating the evil. 



292 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Damping. — This is a fungoid disease which accounts for 
a great many young plants either as seedHngs or cuttings. 
If the correct atmosphere is maintained there should be 
very little damping. An atmosphere too close and stuffy, 
accompanied with excessive moisture, will induce damp- 
ing, also overhead syringing of young seedlings. To pre- 
vent damping a little more air should be put on and the 
surroundings should be kept drier. In a propagator the 
glass should either be wiped dry or turned three times a 
day. Young stocks are very liable to damp, but if they are 
pricked off early and put out of the way of the syringe 
they will go ahead nicely. 

Earwigs. — These insects do much damage to chrysan- 
themums and to peaches. The best way to trap them is 
to cut off pieces of the stalk of broad beans and place them 
in their haunts. The earwigs can be blown out each morn- 
ing into a jar of salt water. 

EucHARis Mite. — This pest attacks eucharis, pancra- 
tiums, and sometimes, I believe, extends its destructive 
operations to amaryllis. A thorough cleaning of the roots 
with X.L. All insecticide will help to get rid of it, as also 
will mixing Vaporite with the soil when potting. Plants 
already established may have holes made in the soil with a 
dibber, and a little Vaporite put in and covered with soil. 

Eel-worms. — These are insidious pests which often 
attack melons. Once they attack the plants burning is 
the only remedy. Preventive measures should then be 
adopted against a further attack, such as sterilising the 
soil by burning or by steaming or by adding soil fumigants 
to it a week or ten days before using it. After an attack 
of eel-worm the site of the attack should be thoroughly 
cleaned. 

Green-fly. — With green-fly we will couple white-fly. 
These are notoriously troublesome, especially with such 



PESTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION 293 

subjects as pelargoniums, cinerarias, arum lilies and 
calceolarias. Happily they are not difficult to destroy, 
but if passed unnoticed for a time will greatly disfigure 
the plants and cause considerable harm. The surest 
method of exterminating them is to fumigate the house or 






Diagram 58, — Green-fly : i, 2 and 3. Chrysanthemum, arum and pelar- 
gonium attacked. 4. Winged female. 5. Wingless female enlarged and actual 
size. 6. White-fly, enlarged and natural size. 

frame with X.L. All vaporising compound as shown under 
fumigation. Failing fumigation the plants may be 
syringed with quassia or, in fact, almost any insecticide. 
Where only a few pests are seen they can be wiped off with 
a sponge. 

Leaf-miner. — This pest directs its attention particu- 
larly to chrysanthemums, and as it burrows into the 
tissues of the leaves it is very difficult to deal with. Every 



294 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



affected leaf should be pulled off and burnt, and the plants 
should be frequently syringed with quassia to render the 
leaves distasteful to the pest. A sharp look-out should be 




Diagram 59. — Leaf-miner : a, ravages of pest on chrysanthemum ; 
b, on cineraria ; c, fly enlarged and natural size ; d, larva stage ; e, pupa 
stage. 

kept in the early stages of growth, as it is very easy to get 
a whole batch of plants spoiled. Every leaf and growth 
taken from infested plants must be burnt. 

Mealy Bug. — Probably the most troublesome of green- 
house pests, as it is well-nigh impossible to %et rid of it 
entirely. If the pest has but taken its abode among a few 
plants it would be quite as well to consign these to the fire, 
but it usually happens that its area of destruction is large 
or is confined to choice plants which the amateur cannot 
afford to part with. The best time for dealing with mealy 
bug is in the dull months of winter, when pressure of 
work is not so great and there is not so much growth. All 



PESTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION 295 

plants should be specially examined and the foliage, etc., 
sponged with X.L, All insecticide. Where possible, the 
soil at the surface should be loosened and burnt or the 
plants repotted, the old soil, crocks, etc., being burnt. 




Diagram 60. — Mealy Bug : a, natural size ; b, enlarged ; c, bug with 
woolly substance surrounding it ; d, how it attacks vines ; e, coleuses ; and 
f, ferns. 

After the plants get dry fumigate well, and look over 
them occasionally afterwards, dropping a little methy- 
lated spirits on all young bugs that are seen. 

Mice, — These animals are troublesome in a good many 
ways, by eating seeds — tulips, peas, beans, etc. The only 
sure method is persistently to trap them until all are got 
rid of. A shilling invested in a dozen break-back traps 
will prove good value, as the traps can with care be kept 
for a considerable time. 

Mildew. — A disease which can better be prevented 



296 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

than cured. It is usually brought about by bad ventila- 
tion — by keeping the atmosphere too close and stuffy. 
The method, of course, is to admit more air on all possible 
occasions. Should, however, mildew occur in spite of pre- 
cautions the simplest remedy is to dust the affected area 
with flowers of sulphur. Bat the amateur would be well 
advised to procure some mildew specifics from a horticul- 




Diagram 61. — Red-spider: a, highly magnified; b, attacking vine leaf; 
c, violet leaf; d, peach leaf showing web which surrounds it. 

tural sundriesman, such as Bentley's of Burro w-on- 
Humber, which will speedily check the evil. 

Rats.— Like mice, are best caught. I do not care to 
advise poison. By persistence they can usually be trapped 
in strong gins and then we are sure that we are getting 
rid of them. 

Red-spider. — ^This is a difficult pest to deal with. It 
will not yield to the treatment of fumigation unless done 



PESTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION 297 

at a dangerous strength, nor will it succumb to syringings 
of such mild preparations as quassia or soapy water. A 
preparation known as " Spidacide " is found very effective, 
but the obnoxious smell it leaves behind lingers for weeks, 
and thus renders its use less frequent than it would other- 
wise be. Undoubtedly the best way to wage war on red- 
spider is to syringe frequently and forcibly with clear water. 
This will break the web which envelops these minute 
pests, and make their stay there practically impossible. Of 
course the best way is to syringe so as to prevent its 
appearance, but this is not always possible. In the case 
of flowering plants or ripening fruit it is not advisable to 
syringe and at such a time red-spider makes rapid head- 
way. Much red-spider may be prevented by keeping that 
part of the house damp near the hot-water pipes, by 
syringing the surface of the staging during hot weather, 
and by treating vines and peaches with a good winter- 
dressing (from Timothy & Sandwith's, Bracknell) during 
the time they are dormant. 

Rust — A name given to various forms of fungoid 
disease. The two kinds at present under notice are those 
which attack chrysanthemums and carnations. The 
chrysanthemum rust is not now so prevalent as it was a 
few years ago, when it disfigured and spoilt so many 
collections. Brown spots emitting powder are produced 
under the leaf, and if not checked the disease spreads and 
the plants become denuded of leaves. This, of course, 
cannot fail to have an injurious effect on the plant, besides 
being so disfiguring. The disease shows itself most pro- 
minently from July onwards, and again just after the 
cuttings are rooted. Preventive measures are advised. 
These take the form of picking off and burning every 
affected leaf as soon as seen, syringing daily with weak 
soot-water, and once a fortnight with sulphide of potassium 



298 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



• — an ounce to three gallons of water^ — propagating from 
healthy plants, burning all growths when the plants are 
being cut down. Only perseverance in these .preventive 
measures will prove satisfactory. When the disease is 





Diagram 62. — Rust : i. On chrysanthemums ; a, leaf attacked ; b, active 
spores ; c, dormant spores ; d, summer spores. 2. Carnation rust : a, showing 
leaf attack; b, winter spores ; c, summer spores. 

badly present I would advise syringing with sulphide of 
potassium at the rate of one ounce to three gallons of water. 
Carnation Rust. — Requires practically the same pre- 
cautionary measures. I find it a good plan to dip the 
cuttings in the solution of sulphide of potassium as they 
are made and to keep a sharp look-out for its appearance 
afterwards. Fortnightly syringings with the solution will 
keep it well in hand if it does not completely destroy it. 
Isolate all plants and cuttings received from other sources 
until it is certain that they are free from rust. 



PESTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION 299 

Scalding. — Can scarcely be called a disease, but is due 
rather to errors in ventilation. The vine is particularly 
affected by this, and it is invariably caused through not 
opening the ventilators early in the morning. As soon as 
the sun fairly strikes a vinery it should be given air by 





Diagram 63. — Scalding, Shanking, Splitting: i : a, scalded vine leaf; b, scalded 
berries of grape. 2. Split berries of grape. 



opening the top ventilators slightly. If not opened then, 
scalding will inevitably occur. Scalding is more likely to 
take place when the vines are flowering, and when stoning 
takes place. A sharp eye should be kept on the ventila- 
tion on days of alternate sunshine and cloud. 

Scale. — Comes next to mealy bug as being an almost 
ineradicable greenhouse pest. At first it is of a light 
yellowish colour, but later it becomes brown, and is very 
disfiguring. The same means as have been suggested for 
mealy bug should be used against scale. Undoubtedly the 



300 



THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 



use of X.L. All insecticide, coupled with the cleaning 
methods alluded to under Mealy Bug will prove a safe 
remedy, and there is a strong probability of the pest being 





Diagrajn 64. — Scale and Thrip : i : a, scale attacking dracaena leaf; 
bf enlarged and natural size ; c, views of oyster scale ; d, scale attacking 
peach branch. 2. Thrip : a, attacking leaves ; b, leaf not attacked ; 
c, greatly enlarged. 

completely exterminated, and a certainty of its being kept 
under. 

Shanking. — Refers to a kind of shrivelling of the berries 
of grapes. Old vines suffer most from this evil, which is 
very often associated with bad root action or a sour border. 
If either of these be suspected the remedy, of course, will 
be to overhaul the border and provide a better rooting 
medium and to repair the drainage if need be. To minimise 
the attack choose short, healthy-looking growths when dis- 
budding in preference to the very strong ones. An old 
grape-vine given badly to shanking had best be got rid of 
entirely or, if several are in a house, a few could be done 



PESTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION 301 

away with each year, so that there would be no great loss 
of crop. 

Splitting. — Some varieties of grapes are more liable 
to split in the berries than others. The disease is caused 
by an overdose of water during ripening, by undue stopping 
of growths at such a time, and by too moist an atmosphere. 

Thrip. — Whether black or white, this is a very harmful 




Diagram 65. — Tomato Disease : a, plant flagging through disease ; b, stem and 
fruit attacked ; c, examples of diseased fruit ; d, yellowing of foliage. 

and disfiguring pest. The black thrip may easily be cleared 
off by fumigation, but the small white thrip, which is very 
minute, does not give way so easily to this method. There- 
fore sponging with a good insecticide should be under- 
taken. Again I have to recommend the X.L. All insecti- 
cide as being the best, although it should be mentioned 



302 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

that it has a tendency to make some people sick. The 
back of the leaf is the favourite resort of this pest, although 
they are not averse to attacking flowers. Cyclamens are 
often troubled with white thrip. Its presence may be 
known by the disfiguring lines in the foliage and the brown 
marks in the flowers. 

Tomato Disease.- — ^By buying from a good source, 
readers are not so liable to be troubled with disease. The 
presence of the disease is noticed when the leaves droop 
for no apparent reason. There is no remedy for a diseased 
plant. Once it is attacked it is past remedy. Burn all 
diseased plants and the soil they grow in. If there are 
many plants the house or frame in which they are grown 
should be thoroughly washed with soapy water and 
paraffin. The use of lime in the soil will go a long way 
towards preventing an occurrence of the pest. 

Vine Weevil. — Personally I have never been troubled 
with this pest on vines, but I have known it do mighty 
damage to cyclamens and primulas. This pest is de- 
structive in both the larva and the weevil stage. During 
sunny weather a plant is seen to flag, and this may continue 
for some time, the leaves becoming firm and upright when 
in the shade. If the plant is turned out the maggots of 
this weevil will be found at the roots or at the base of the 
corm. I have found as many as thirteen of these fat, 
whitish maggots beneath one plant. It is, of course, easy 
to understand that where they do not cause the collapse 
of the plant they seriously undermine its constitution. 
In the larva stage a dose of some soil fumigant such as 
Vaporite may cause their destruction, but I would not 
place implicit trust in it. The safest method of dealing 
with the pest is to adopt preventive methods. These will 
include killing all the weevils found, examining the soil 
in which the plants are to be potted, turning out the plants 



PESTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION 303 

frequently to kill any maggots seen, burning all plants and 
soil suspected, cleaning thoroughly the staging where in- 
fested plants were stood, and putting a small quantity of 
soil fumigant in the soil during the later stages of the 
plants' growth. 
Wire-worms. — These are troublesome in potting soils. 








Diagram (>(>. — Vine Weevil : a, larva or maggot stage ; b, pupa stage ; 
c, weevil stage ; d, how weevils attack vine leaf ; e, how larva attack cyclamen. 

An endeavour should be made to get turf from a pasture 
where no wire-worm exists. Failing this, it would be a 
good plan to sprinkle each layer of turf as the stack is 
being made with Vaporite, Kilognib or Grubicide. 
When preparing soil for potting look over it carefully and 



304 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

pick out all those straw-coloured grubs which will do so 
much damage if allowed to remain. 

Wasps. — These are a great nuisance in a vinery, where 
they will quickly spoil many bunches of grapes. The best 
method of keeping them from the grapes is to tack tiffany 
over the ventilators. Failing this, I would advise the 
trapping of the wasps, the destruction of the nests and the 
setting about the house of jam pots partly filled with 
sweetened beer. One of the finest preventive measures 
is to catch the queen wasps during May. A good time to 
search for the nests is about midday, when the wasps are 
more likely to be travelling backwards and forwards. 
River banks and dry ditches are likely places for nests. 
When found, mark the nests and destroy them at the first 
opportunity with cyanide of potassium. A shilling's 
worth may be dissolved in a quart of warm water. It is a 
deadly poison and should be labelled and kept in a safe 
place. Put some cotton wool in the solution and keep it 
tight. Use a pointed stick and with it put a piece of 
saturated cotton wool in the hole of the nest. After a 
few hours it should be possible to dig out the nest and 
destroy the comb. A can of water should be at hand, 
and when the nest is reached water should be poured in 
and the comb broken and mixed with the earth. 

White- FLY. — Has already been dealt with under Green- 
fly. 

Wood-lice. — Often called also sow bugs and slaters. 
These are very destructive in a greenhouse. Use boiling 
water to kill them in their haunts and search for them 
among any rubbish near the hot-water pipes. They have 
a partiality for decayed wood, and if some flat pieces be 
placed on the ground there are almost sure to be some found 
beneath it, and can then be destroyed. 



CHAPTER XXXII 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 



January 

Fruit. — Water peach-trees, vines and figs prior to start- 
ing them into growth. The time of starting a vine or a 




Diagram 67. — January : i. Sowing dwarf beans and sweet-peas : a, position 
on shelf close to glass ; b, dwarf beans in pot or box ; c, sweet-peas singly and 
severally in a pot. 2. Sowing cucumbers : a, cucumber seed put in a pot ; 
b, pot set in a frame with bottom heat. 3. Forcing potatoes : a, potatoes in a 
narrow frame ; b, potatoes in pot ; c, good ; and d, bad set. 4. Forcing seakale, 
rhubarb and asparagus. 

peach-tree depends on the time the ripe fruit is required, 
u 305 



3o6 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

I do not advise amateurs generally to start these before 
February, unless they wish to get them ripe in good season. 
The advantage of starting early is that there is opportunity 
for getting forward many things for the greenhouse and 
garden. Bring pot strawberries into a warm house. 
Clean, prune, dress with insecticide and tie, peaches, 
vines, figs and nectarines. Insert vine eyes in pots in 
a propagator. Sow tomatoes and prick them off when 
they break into rough leaf. 

Vegetables. — Sow dwarf beans in small pots or in a 
box. If sown in a box pot them up early, else the check 
will be too great. Sow cucumbers and melons singly in 
2-inch pots (enveloping each seed in sand) and put into a 
brisk propagator. Remove from the propagator as soon 
as they are above the soil. Sow peas and broad beans in 
boxes and put in a heated house or frame. Sow also 
onions, leeks, cauliflowers, lettuces, summer cabbages, 
and towards the end of the month, bmssels sprouts and 
celery. Plant potatoes in pots or in a warm frame. 
Lettuces may be planted between the potatoes and 
radishes sown there. Radishes also may be sown between 
Shorthorn carrots on a hotbed. Cauliflowers, lettuces, etc., 
should be pricked off fairly early. I like to set them fairly 
close together in a box, say about one hundred and twenty 
plants in a box 24 inches by 15 inches. By the time they 
threaten to become crowded they may be further trans- 
planted in a cold frame. Much room inside is saved by 
this method. Peas and beans should be removed to cooler 
quarters as soon as they get above ground. Onions and 
leeks may be left in heat for some time. A sowing of 
parsley in a box will make certain of a bed when planted 
out in the spring. Sow mustard and cress each week to 
ensure a successional supply. Get in rhubarb, seakale 
and asparagus for forcing in a frame or beneath the 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 307 

staging. Rhubarb and seakale will also force in a warm 
shed. 

Flowers. — Sow Sweet-peas in pots or boxes, East 
Lothian stocks, freesias, salvias, streptocarpus, gloxinia, 
begonia. Primula obconica, verbena, polyanthus, and, 
later in the month, antirrhinums. Cover the seeds 
lightly with fine soil, water well, shade from sun and see 
that no insects, slugs, etc., get at them. Remove the 
covering as soon as germination takes place. 

Take cuttings of chrysanthemums if sufficient are not 
rooted, and especially of early-flowering varieties. Take 
cuttings also of heliotropes, begonias (Lorraine), lobelia, 
ageratum, verbena, altemanthera, irisine, also of bedding 
geraniums if sufficient were not rooted in the autumn. 
Both blue and scarlet salvias may now be rooted from 
cuttings. 

Force bulbs of narcissi, tulips, hyacinths. The best 
policy is to work a few along each week sufficient to meet 
requirements. Those still in the ashes should be looked 
over. It is more than probable that they will all need to 
be taken out by the end of the month. As they pass out 
of flower they should be set aside where they can be 
watered until they have sufficiently dried off. Except 
the Paper-white Narcissi, the Double Roman Narcissi and 
the Roman hyacinths all may be planted in odd parts of 
the garden. Lilies of the valley may be brought into heat ; 
also deutzias, azaleas, lilacs, spiraeas, dielytras, Solomon's 
seal. Hydrangea paniculata and similar forcing subjects. 

Pot up bedding geraniums from boxes to 3-inch pots. 
Move heliotropes intended for standards to larger pot and 
disbud them, using the side growths for cuttings. Pot up 
gloxinia corms which were shaken out and started in 
leaf-soil in December into small pots. Shake out corms 
obtained from leaf cuttings in summer and start in leaf- 



3o8 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

soil. Give pelargoniums a larger pot, both the old plants 
and those struck from cuttings in the summer, also schiz- 
anthuses and Clarkias. Pot Lilium auratum, Harrisii 
and longifolium, three bulbs in g-inch pot, and allow room 
for top-dressing. 

Make up a propagator in warm house for striking 
cuttings, etc. ; also make a hotbed and frame for forcing 
vegetables or for purposes of propagation. Cut back 
Lorraine begonias which are past their best. Dry off 
freesias as they pass out of flower, also calanthes. Start 
into growth amaryllises, begonias and fuchsias. Tie 
bulbs as they need it. Top-dress with approved chemicals 
such plants as are root-bound ; also feed with liquid manure. 
Throw away chrysanthemum stools as it is found they are 
no longer needed. Clean violets in frames, loosen the soil 
and water if they need it . Give plenty o f air to cold frames 
on all possible occasions, and protect from frost. Put 
sticks to sweet-peas in pots sown in the autumn. Keep 
a good but not scorching heat in the greenhouse. 

February 

Fruit. — A fresh batch of strawberries should be worked 
along each fortnight to maintain a succession. Those 
which were started at the beginning of January will by the 
end of this month be flowering, and it will then be ad- 
visable to cease syringing and to fertilise the fruit by 
touching each flower with a rabbit's tail at noon. This 
ensures better shaped fruit. Top-dress the vine border 
if not already done and start later vines after cleaning and 
dressing them. Those started earlier and tied down to 
make them break evenly should be tied in place before 
the growths get so long as to endanger their being broken. 
Continue to syringe them twice a day. Sow more 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 



309 



tomatoes, prick off into boxes those which have reached 
the rough leaf and pot any that are becoming crowded in 
boxes. Sow melons in small pots. Fertilise peach flowers 
with rabbit's tail and cease syringing until the fruit has 
set. Tie the branches of later trees. 
Vegetables. — Sow celery, sprouts, cauliflowers and 




Diagram 68. — February : i. Top-dressing vine borders : a, depth of 
old soil removed shown by dotted line ; b, good soil put on shown by heavily 
shaded portion. 2. Sprouting seed potatoes prior to planting : a, tray set 
on staging ; b, showing how to place the sets. 3. Dividing begonia : 
a, begonia tuber cut through ; b, the same placed singly in a small pot. 
4. Pinching point out of bedding geraniums. 5. Potting carnations : 
a, plant in 3-inch pot ready for removal to 5-inch ; b, rooted cutting from 
propagator to be set in 3-inch pot ; c, rooted cuttings graded and ready for 
potting. 6. Pricking off seedlings : a, onions and leeks ; b. East Lothian 
stocks ; c, cabbage and cos lettuces. 

lettuces, also another box of peas and broad beans and 
a succession of dwarf beans. Prick off onions, leeks, 
sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuces. Pot up dwarf 



310 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

beans. Stake those that need it. Top-dress potatoes in 
pots and stake them. Set potatoes in a tray in greenhouse 
to sprout. This is a much better method than planting 
them without sprouting, as a better yield may be expected. 
Make up hotbed for cucumbers and for forcing vegetables. 
Harden peas and beans for planting out later. Get in a 
further supply of rhubarb, seakale and asparagus for 
forcing. Continue to sow mustard and cress each week. 

Flowers. — Prick off East Lothian stocks quite early, as 
they are then less liable to damp off. Sow asters, 
stocks, verbena, salpiglossis, nicotiana, lavatera, Phlox 
Drummondii and similar half-hardy plants intended for 
summer flowering, also more antirrhinums, pentstemons, 
alyssum, salvia, hollyhock, Clerodendron fallax and 
primulas. 

Take cuttings as they become available of salvias, 
geraniums of all kinds, but especially of those intended for 
winter flowering. These are obtained from the old plants 
which will now be cut back hard and be kept dry until 
they again break into growth. Take cuttings also of 
heliotrope, lobelia, ageratum, verbena, eupatoriums, 
coleuses, scented geraniums, ivy-leaved geraniums for 
autumn flowering in pots and pentstemons from old 
plants which were potted up in the autumn. 

Pot up border carnations, being a second batch to follow 
those potted in October ; tree carnations just rooted into 
3-inch pots and those rooted in the autumn to 5-inch pots. 
Split up and repot ferns of all kinds which are now com- 
mencing growth. Pot on coleuses, also chrysanthemums 
as they become large enough, and bedding geraniums if 
not done last month. 

Start begonias for flowering outside, also fuchsias, any 
further gloxinias there may be, and caladiums. Begonias 
may be divided after they have started if the bulbs be 







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A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 311 

sufficiently large. They are best started in a box of leaf- 
soil in a warm atmosphere. 

Force more flowers and bulbs of all kinds, but introduce 
them gradually into heat and as they get over let them be 
hardened gradually until they can be put into a cold house. 
As the flowers expand introduce them to the conservatory 
or flowering house. This will give more room in the 
growing house and enable more plants to be brought 
forward and a better succession maintained. This refers 
also to all flowering plants throughout the year. 

Cut back zonal geraniums as previously advised. Pinch 
out the points of sweet-peas when they are a few inches 
high. In the case of those sown in the autumn the leading 
growth may be taken entirely away as the basal growths 
will have well thrown out by this time. It is worth a trial 
to prepare these pieces and put them in a box as cuttings. 
They root easily in a temperature of 50°. Cyclamen and 
primulas will now be flowering freely, and will need supplies 
of liquid manure. If the vine weevil is present it will be 
making itself known about this time. Flowering bulbs 
intended for cut flowers should be grouped together in 
some convenient place where a mat can be thrown over 
them so that the supply may be kept up for a longer period. 
Fumigate the house containing calceolarias and cinerarias 
and pelargoniums, for they are very likely to be infested 
with green-fly. The stellata type of cineraria will need a 
stick to support their long stem. Bedding geraniums 
may have their points taken out to encourage a more 
bushy habit. The remark applies also to show pelar- 
goniums. Harden sweet-peas and other plants intended 
for planting outside. Gladiolus — The Bride, Blushing 
Bride, Peach Bloom and Ne Plus Ultra — ^may now be 
brought from the frames to the greenhouse, also that lovely 
spiraea. Queen Alexandra. Continue to disbud strepto- 



312 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

solens, fuchsias, heliotropes and ivy-leaved geraniums, 
intended as standards for bedding. Clivias will now be 
throwing up their flower spikes and should be brought into 
a prominent position. It would be well to sponge the 
foliage with soft water to which a little milk is added. 



March 
Fruit. — Tie down vine growths as they become large 

3 




Diagram 69. — March : i. Celery : a, pricked off thickly in box to be 
afterwards pricked out farther apart on prepared bed (Ji). 2. Cucumber plant 
from 3-inch pot ready for removal to 6-inch. 3. Marrow seed set singly in 
small pot and put in hotbed frame or on greenhouse shelf. 4. Potting 
East Lothian stocks : a, in 3-inch pots ; b, showing resulting bushy 
plant ; c, alternative method of planting in a frame. 5. Planting violets 
from frames : a, good piece for planting in trenched ground a foot apart (b). 
6. Dahlia cutting : a, old dahlia root potted up to produce cuttings ; 
b and c, indifferent and good cuttings. 

enough, but in doing this great care is needed to prevent 
them from snapping. They should be tied down a little 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 313 

at a time. When the selected growth has been got down 
nicely to the wire those near it which are not required may 
be cut out. It is probable that the strawberries will be 
fully in flower now. If they can be put in a position where 
they get plenty of light and a gentle supply of air the fruit 
will be more sure to set. When they have set, the best 
fruit should be selected to the number of six or seven, and 
the rest picked off. Those selected should be staked up 
with pegs made from old birch brooms, and when this is 
done a top-dressing of Peruvian guano or Clay's fertiliser 
may be given. After peaches have set their fruit the work 
of disbudding must be undertaken. The main principle 
is to pinch out all growths on the front and back of the 
shoot, and to thin the others out to a foot apart, leaving 
always the topmost and lowermost one. Syringing of the 
trees may be continued after the flowering is over. 

Vegetables. — Boxes of onions, leeks, cauliflowers, 
cabbages, lettuces and sprouts may now be taken to the 
cold frame left vacant by peas and broad beans. Whether 
the onions go out early or late in the month depends on 
how forward they are. It is probable that the latter part 
will be sufiiciently early. Prick off celery thickly in boxes 
to save room, and later it may be pricked off farther apart 
outside. Pot up cucumbers and melons into 5-inch or 
6-inch pots prior to planting in the frame or greenhouse. 
Pot tomatoes farther along. They usually plant best out 
of 5-inch pots. Forward tomatoes may be planted in deep 
narrow boxes or in large pots. Prick off another supply 
of lettuces, cauliflowers and sprouts. Sow marrows at 
the end of the month single, in small pots, and at the same 
time sow Globe beet for planting out later. Stake dwarf 
beans as they need it. 

Flowers. — This will be a busy month in the greenhouse. 
More air will now be needed, and very shortly the question 



314 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

of shading the greenhouse will need attention. A few 
words on this matter will be found in the body of the book 
and need not now be repeated. Flowers for the outside 
form a considerable part of the work in the greenhouse for 
the next month or two. East Lothian stocks will now be 
getting along, and I would advise that the best of them be 
potted into 3-inch pots. If sufficient pots are not avail- 
able they may be set in a frame at a fair distance apart, 
but they do not thus transplant so well, although better 
stuff is obtained than if they were left in boxes. Frames 
should be prepared for pricking out all manner of seed- 
lings. Where antirrhinums, calceolarias, pentstemons, 
marguerites and violas have been grown in frames the 
frame may well be taken off and used for other purposes. 
Should severe frost happen a few mats may be thrown over 
the cuttings, but they will be able pretty well to take care 
of themselves if they have been kept freely ventilated 
during the winter. Continue to work up a sufficient stock 
from cuttings of ageratum, heliotropes, fuchsias, lobelia 
and similar subjects, and prick off all seedlings as they 
become large enough, giving them nice open sandy soil. 
Make further sowings at once of any bedding plants which 
have not come up well from seeds, such as antirrhinums, 
etc. Violets may be removed from frames and planted on 
well-trenched ground. The space will then become avail- 
able for innumerable other subjects. Put sticks to sweet- 
peas in pots and harden them off preparatory to planting 
out. If it is intended to grow any for flowering inside no 
time should be lost in moving them to large pots. These, 
of course, must be staked at once. Four tall stakes will 
serve the purpose, and as the growths advance a strand 
of matting may be passed round them. Pinch cuttings 
of calceolaria in frames, which will now be growing freely. 
Get dahlia plants inside to produce cuttings and take off 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 315 

the cuttings with a heel as soon as they are large enough. 
They will need a brisk heat. Pinch the tops out of some 
of the show pelargoniums to prolong the supply of flowers. 
Pinch also coleuses to induce a bushy habit, and fuchsias, 
salvias, bush and single chrysanthemums and similar 
subjects. Box early chrysanthemums to be planted out 
at end of April. Cyclamens which have given the best of 
their flowers may now be transferred to a frame and be 
kept somewhat dry. Shake calanthes from their pots and 
wash them with insecticide prior to repotting them. They 
will now be throwing out their growths and may be potted 
at the end of the month. Care must be taken not to break 
them, as they are very brittle. Gloxinias will probably 
need a further shift by this time. They need a close, 
moist atmospheie. Pot up zonal pelargoniums for winter 
flowering into 3-inch pots. Hydrangeas from cuttings 
struck in the autumn and potted into 3-inch pots may now 
be removed into 6-inch pots in which good flowering plants 
should be produced. Carnations for the border which 
have been wintered in a frame may now be stood outside 
prior to planting them out. Those grown in pots for 
flowering inside, as well as Malmaisons, will need tying, 
and top-dressing with a good plant fertiliser. Bring 
cypripediums to cooler quarters and feed them with liquid 
cow manure. Greenhouse gladioli must be especially 
watched, as they are very likely to go bad at the tips of 
the leaves if not properly attended to in the matter of 
water. Stake such cinerarias as need it and arrange them 
in a neat batch in the greenhouse or conservatory. Get 
up arrears of last month's work. 

April 
Fruit. — Tie down vine shoots as they become long 
enough, eventually getting them straight down to the wires. 



3i6 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Maintain a drier atmosphere while they are flowering, and 
shake the rod briskly at noon to ensure a freer setting of 
fruit. A slight chink of air may be left on at night until 
flowering is over. Thin, stake and top-dress successive 
batches of strawberries. They may now be fed with soot- 




Diagram 70. — April : i. Planting cucumbers : a, on mound in frame 
(the better way) or on flat (3). 2. Cyclamen removed from 3-inch to 5-inch 
pot. 3. Achimenes corm potted singly or severally in a pot. 4. Cuttings 
of coleus thyrsoideus : a, good cutting ; /', potted singly, or c, severally in 
pot ; d, position on open staging. 5. Border carnation tied up to flowers 
inside. Others planted from frames to prepared ground. 

water and liquid cow manure until they begin to colour. 
Those which are ripening should be given a fairly airy 
situation, and when the fruit has been picked the plants 
may be hardened off and planted outside. Peaches must 
be disbudded if not already done, and after flowering of 
the vines they, with peaches and figs, should receive a 
good watering. Pot melons along so that they can be 
planted from 6-inch pots to the frames. Pot tomatoes 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 317 

into 5-inch pots, and when duly rooted plant into fruiting 
quarters or into lo-inch pots. No feeding should take 
place, or any manure be put in the soil until fruit has set 
— at least one bunch. 

Vegetables. — Early in the month sow marrows singly in 
small pots, also dwarf beans three in a pot, and runners 
singly in a 3-inch pot for planting outside. Plant onions, 
cauliflowers, cabbages, lettuces, peas and similar subjects 
which have been forwarded, outside. Rhubarb, seakale 
and asparagus need not now be forced inside. Do away 
with dwarf beans which have fruited. Prick out celery 
in a frame made of planks and syringe it frequently with 
quassia and soot-water to ward off fly. Plant cucumber 
in frames, or, if not large enough, pot on to 6-inch pots. 
Sow for another batch. 

Flowers. — Work all manner of bedding plants, whether 
in pots or boxes, to frames, and get them hard and sturdy 
as quickly as possible. Plant out sweet-peas at first avail- 
able opportunity. Later sowings of bedding stuff may be 
pricked off into a cold frame or on a piece of ground where 
there is convenience for covering up at night. Pot along 
such special plants as heliotropes and stocks so as to get 
really fine plants by bedding-out time. Sow annuals in 
a frame for planting in the border. Plant out border 
carnations wintered in a frame. Plant out in the 
shrubbery borders bulbs which have been forced. Split 
up and plant out violets if not done last month. Con- 
tinue to take cuttings of dahlias. Plant out pentstemons, 
blue salvia (patens), early 'mums and hollyhocks. 

Schizanthuses and cinerarias should now be making a 
brave show in the greenhouse. Arums also should be 
doing well. Those that were flowered early may be set 
outside in a sheltered position. Young cyclamen may be 
potted from 3-inch to 5-inch pots, so that they will later 



3i8 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

make a nice shift into 7-inch pots. A sowing may be made 
now. Those plants which have passed their best may be 
kept somewhat dry with all the flowers pulled off. Calanthes 
are shooting out nicely. If more than one growth shows it 
would be well to cut out the weaker one. Tie border 
carnations as they throw up their flower spikes. Pot 
along fuchsias, heliotropes, eupatoriums, coleuses, chrysan- 
themums, geraniums of all types and other plants which 
are pot-bound. Sow primulas and an early batch of 
cinerarias. Some of the chrysanthemums will probably 
need a small stake to support them. All plants will now 
be growing apace and will need more room. This should, 
as far as possible, be given. Tree carnations may be 
moved to 5-inch pots. Pot up achimenes. Take cuttings 
of Coleus thyrsoideus and root on the open staging in a 
warm house. Coleuses with coloured foliage struck in 
the autumn will now be ready for 9-inch pots, in which 
they should make handsome specimens. Take cuttings 
of poinsettias according to the directions given in the body 
of this book. April will be found a very busy month, as 
all plants grow so quickly. Especial attention must be 
given to the ventilation during those days of alternate sun- 
shine and showers, which are so prevalent at this time. 
Many plants also will need water twice a day. It will be 
advisable to go over them morning and evening. The 
stagings and pathways of the house should also be damped 
twice or three times a day. 

May 

Fruit. — Plant more tomatoes if there are not already 
sufficient. Stake and tie others that were planted last 
month. Not until the roots are seen to be running along 
the surface should they be top-dressed as described in the 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 



319 



chapter on tomatoes. The side growths should be pinched 
out as soon as they are large enough to be handled, and 
every encouragement should be given, by using the rabbit's 
tail over them, to get them to set a nice lot of fruit. 
Muscat grapes require care in setting, and here also the 
use of the rabbit's tail is advised each day. As the berries 
on the grape vines become as large as sweet-pea seeds they 




Diagram 71. — May : i. Thinning peaches : a, fruit to be left, others 
to be removed. 2. Mulching peach-trees after thinning. 3. Pinching 
side growths (a) out of tomatoes. 4. Dahlia cutting rooted and 
removed to larger pot. 

will need thinning. Firstly, the best branches should be 
selected and the others cut away. Then may the thinning 
of the berries be undertaken. After this is done the border 
should be sprinkled with Le Fruitier and mulched with 
farmyard manure and then well watered. The figs may 
be treated in like manner. A mulching may also be given 
to peach-trees when the fruit are the size of walnuts. If 



320 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

a good set has been obtained some thinning of the fruit 
will be necessary. Remember that it is decidedly bad 
management to overcrop vines or peaches. Besides 
crippling the trees, good fruit well finished cannot be 
obtained in this way. As strawberries have their fruit 
removed they may be planted in the garden, where they 
will probably afford runners this year and fruit the next. 

Vegetables. — Besides keeping up a supply of French 
beans and mustard and cress, there will be little to do with 
vegetables in the greenhouse. Marrows may be hardened 
off and planted out. A further supply of dwarf beans 
and runners may be sown in pots and set in frames. I 
consider this method far more satisfactory than sowing 
outside, and it entails little less labour while more room is 
available now under glass than there was a month back. 
Parsley sown in boxes should be planted out, also Globe 
beet. This should be carefully done. Celery should be 
kept well hardened so that sturdy stuff will be available for 
planting out later. Plant cucumbers in frames if not 
already done. Syringe them twice a day and pinch the 
growths as the fruits form. 

Flowers. — Move Primula sinensis and stellata to 3- 
inch pots as soon as they have made sufficient advance in 
the boxes in which they were pricked off. Sow calceolarias 
to flower next May. They may be grown in a frame 
beneath the shade of a north wall. They need special 
attention during their early stages. Cinerarias will now 
be getting past their best and may be replaced in the con- 
servatory by pelargoniums, which are now flowering well, 
and can be depended on to do so till July. Sow another 
batch of cinerarias and primulas. The tall Chimney 
campanulas which were sown early in the year may now be 
removed from 3-inch to 6-inch pots. They flower the year 
following that in which they were sown. Those which 




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A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 321 

were grown from seed last year will now be in g-inch pots, 
and will bear plenty of feeding if stood out in an open 
position. Begonias which seem to demand it may be 
moved into larger pots. The greenhouse will now need 
shading during bright, sunny weather, else there will be 
great difficulty in keeping the plants sufficiently moist, 
and moreover there are so many plants which object to 
much sunshine when in a greenhouse or frame. Chrysan- 
themums will now bear with standing outside, though 
it would be well to be prepared to cover them lightly at 
the approach of frost. Several of them will need short 
sticks to support them, the permanent stakes being put 
in when they have been put into their final pots. This 
operation need not be delayed if the plants have well filled 
their 6-inch pots with roots. The bush and single 'mums 
should have their points pinched out, but not the late- 
flowering ones. Those grown for large blooms should be 
pinched during the third week if they have not already 
made natural breaks. Old tree carnations, which will now 
be getting dilapidated, may be set outside, and will furnish 
growths for cuttings or layers later on in the summer or 
early autumn. The young ones may be set outside on a 
bed of ashes, to be covered during frosty and wet weather. 
Any that are sufficiently advanced may be removed to 
7-inch pots, in which they should make fine plants. I 
find that zonal geraniums intended for winter flowering 
do well in the same soil as chrysanthemums, and when 
this has been prepared a portion should be set apart for 
them, but it will probably need chopping over again as the 
soil is left fairly lumpy for the chrysanthemums. Pot up 
young dahlias rooted from cuttings. The old stools may 
be planted out in the open after they have been duly 
hardened. The best of the East Lothian stocks will bear 
removal to 5-inch or perhaps even 6-inch pots, and will, if 



322 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

done early this month, be fit for removal to the beds in June. 
All bedding plants should by now be set outside, provision 
being made to cover them should necessity arise. Gladiolus 
— The Bride, and others of the same type — ^will now be 
flowering well. After flowering they are best thrown away, 
a fresh lot of bulbs being purchased each year. This re- 
mark, however, does not apply to those beautiful spiraeas, 
such as Queen Alexandra, which may, after flowering, be 
planted out in the garden. Shake out old plants of 
cyclamen and pot them afresh or start them in a bed of 
leaf-soil and pot them up later. More cuttings may be 
taken of Salvia splendens, Coleus thyrsoideus and Poin- 
settia pulcherrima. Calla lilies, which are mostly over 
by this date, may either be planted out or dried off in their 
pots. Gloxinias are now flowering well. The best of 
them should be marked for propagation by leaf, thus 
improving the batch each year. Sweet-peas inside will 
also be giving a wealth of flower, and will need frequent 
waterings of liquid manure. Unless it is desired to save 
seeds of these, the flowers should be regularly gathered. 
Cytisus racemosus may be stood outside after flowering. 

June 

Fruit. — Top-dress successional batches of tomatoes 
as they need it, and feed frequentlj^ with liquid manure. 
It is probable that many of them will be colouring by this 
time. The fruit may be left on the plant to fully ripen, or, 
if desired, they may be cut off and ripened in a cupboard. 
The growths will need to be tied up regularly, the side 
growths pinched out and the leaves cut back where they 
overshadow the fniit. I do not, however, advise severe 
defoliation. The tops of the Tomatoes may be taken out 
when about six feet high. It is probable that the grapes 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 



323 



will be commencing to colour this month. As soon as 
the first tinge of colour is seen, a watering should be given 
sufficient to last them over the colouring period ; this 
may be made with cow manure and a little lime 
added to it. It would be advisable to allow a little 




Diagram -ji. — June: i. Tomato duly staked and growing ahead: 
a, showing how to cut the leaves to let light into the fruit. 2. Support- 
ing chrysanthemums. Wire fence erected to which to train the growths. 
3. A crude method of supporting the pots not often employed now. 

air on the top at night from now onwards. Peaches 
will need a good watering before they start to show 
their colour. 

Vegetables. — Plant out sprouts and celery during 
favourable weather, also runners and dwarf beans for- 
warded in pots. Now that the weather is so warm outside 
we have no need to grow anything in the vegetable line 
under glass, so that for some months I shall have to leave 
this portion out of my calendar. 



324 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Flowers. — ^There is still, however, plenty to do with 
flowers. The zonal geraniums cut back early in the year 
may now be either planted in vases in the garden or be 
used for conservatory or room decoration. In the latter 
alternative a top-dressing of Clay's would greatly assist 
them. If the leaf-miner is present in chrysanthemums 
all affected leaves should be either taken off and burnt 
or the pest picked out with the point of a knife. Syringe 
afterwards with quassia extract. Give more room to 
all growing plants. It is a decidedly bad policy to grow 
plants well and then spoil them by overcrowding. Pinch 
the points out of tree carnations. Stop late-flowering 
bush chrysanthemums early in the month and the main 
batch about the end. Get them all set in position and 
secured to post and wires to prevent their being blown 
over and broken by wind. Tie the growths securely to the 
stakes. After flowering inside, border carnations should 
be set outside until sufficient are available for layering. 
This may be done at the first opportunity. A like remark 
applies to Malmaisons, the old plants being layered and 
the young ones potted on. This potting on from 6-inch to 
9-inch pots may be undertaken at any time now. Make 
a sowing of stocks for winter flowering. Most nursery- 
men catalogue a special class of stocks for this purpose. 
Calanthes will now be forming bulbs and may be fed with 
liquid cow manure. They should have plenty of space, 
a fair amount of heat, some shade, and a moist atmosphere. 
If schizanthuses have proved successful I would advise 
saving seeds from the best of them. Keep cinerarias in 
a cold frame beneath the shade of a north wall but with 
ample ventilation. Towards the end of the month pot up 
the first batch of freesias and put in a cold frame covered 
with a mat. Sow seeds of cyclamen in a temperature of 
60°. Plant out all bedding plants which have been raised 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 325 

or grown under glass. Stand salvias, scented geraniums, 
ivy-leaved and zonals, on a bed of ashes in the open. Get 
primulas and cyclamen into a cold frame and shade from 
bright sunshine. Stake carnations now growing in pots 
outside. Brugmansia will now be flowering well and will 
benefit by a dressing of Clay's fertiliser. If the weather 
be warm it will be possible to let the fire out entirely, but 
if the nights are cold this cannot be advised. During the 
next month or two is usually a good time to get in a fresh 
supply of fuel. Red-spider is likely to abound during hot 
weather, and a sharp look-out should be kept for it. 
Syringing with Spidacide is undoubtedly the best remedy. 

July 

Fruit. — Peaches will very shortly be ripening now, but 
before this happy event proceeds very far the growths 
which are to be retained should be tied in, sub-laterals 
should be pinched out and the whole of the trees syringed 
very forcibly, first of all with clear water to break the webs 
of any lurking red-spider, and a day later with the insecti- 
cide known as Spidacide. This should keep them pretty 
clear of this insidious pest until the fruit is all gathered. 
Syringing must now be stopped on all those trees which 
are colouring, and plenty of air should be given. Where 
ants have been found troublesome on previous occasions 
grease bands should be tied round the stems of the trees ; 
the haunts of these little depredators should be looked for 
and boiling water poured down. Grapes should be ripen- 
ing or ripe about this time, and this will mean that a drier 
atmosphere must be maintained and air left on the top of 
the house at night. If any of the berries show a disposition 
to split, the water tanks should be covered up and clean, 
dry straw laid over the border. As far as possible, all 



326 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

plants should be removed, especially those which are likely 
to require much water. Sub-laterals should be cut back 
to the first leaf, but in the case of grapes splitting it is well 
not to be too severe in this respect. Give a further top- 
dressing to tomatoes ; cut back the leaves and expose the 
fruit to the ripening influence of the sun. Save the best- 
shaped fruits for seeds, setting them on a sunny shelf to 
become dead ripe, when the seeds may be extracted and 




Diagram 73. — July : i. Stopping vines : a, growth stopped beyond bunch 
with laterals throwing out ; b, lateral pinched back to first leaf; c, sub-lateral 
treated in similar manner. 2. Protecting peach-trees from ants : a, grease 
band tied round stem ; /', cotton wool tied round the stem. 3. Cuttings and 
seedlings : a, heliotrope cutting ; b, put into small pot ; c, seedling stocks for 
winter flowering ; d, strong seedling for pricking off. 



cleaned. July is the recognised month for securing the 
best layers of strawberries destined for forcing. As in- 
timated in the chapter devoted to this subject, I much 
prefer layering directly into the fruiting pots, using as a 
compost one barrowful of loam chopped to the size of a 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 327 

hen's egg, one of lime rubble and wood ashes, one of mush- 
room manure, half of leaf-soil, six 6-inch pots of dissolved 
bones or bone meal and a liberal sprinkling of soot. Make 
the soil quite firm by ramming, set the pots level, peg the 
layers in place and water thoroughly. A similar method 
may be applied if layering is done in 3-inch pots, but of 
course for this the soil must be chopped finer. Melons 
will now be ripening and syringing must cease, but before 
ceasing syringe the plants well with Spidacide. Set each 
fruit on a small sheet of glass, slate or wood, and expose to 
the sun. 

Flowers. — Heliotropes flowering well in the greenhouse 
should not be too heavily shaded if the best colour is to 
be obtained. Towards the end of the month procure 
cuttings for the purpose of forming standards either for 
greenhouse or garden display. They are best rooted in a 
box, and the finest cuttings afterwards selected for the 
purpose. Ivy-leaved geranium cuttings should also be 
secured for forming tall, columnar plants. Choose the 
variety Madame Crousse, and put three cuttings in each 
3-inch pot. Take cuttings of violas if it is intended to 
grow a few for the greenhouse, where they make a pleasing 
change. Another important work this month is the layer- 
ing of border carnations and of Malmaisons if they were not 
layered in June. At the same time some of the old tree 
carnations might be layered while the shorter growths not 
large enough to be layered might be put in a frame or hand- 
light beneath the shade of a north wall as cuttings, where 
most of them may confidently be expected to root. 
Chrysanthemums may now be regularly fed with liquid 
manure and soot-water, and be sprinkled once a fortnight 
with Peruvian guano or Clay's fertiliser. Later they may 
receive a top-dressing of rich soil which should be applied 
when they are not dry, and be well watered in. They 



328 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

should be regularly tied to prevent breakage by wind. 
Should any buds form on the large flowering type before 
the last few days of the month they should be pinched out 
and the topmost growth grown along. About the middle 
of the month cut hard back the growths of pelargoniums 
and set the old plants on their sides in the open garden to 
keep them dry for a couple of months. Use the trimmings 
to form cuttings, and set them in a box in a cold frame or 
greenhouse. If properly treated, these should make nice 
bushy flowering plants by next May. Gloxinias are still 
flowering well. They are very useful as cut flowers, often 
lasting from seven to twelve days in an ordinary drawing- 
room. Small plants may be moved from 3-inch to 6-inch 
pots. Put in more leaf cuttings if there are not already 
enough. Box off seedlings of winter-flowering stocks and 
put them in an open frame, covering them only during 
heavy rain. If this be done at the beginning of the month 
they will merit removal to 3-inch pots by the end of July. 
Make another sowing in case the first lot should flower in 
the autumn, as they sometimes will. Sow mignonette for 
winter flowering, and at the end of the month put in a pinch 
of schizanthus seed. Take cuttings of the best varieties 
of tuberous begonias. Prick off calceolarias as soon as 
they are large enough to handle. Move cinerarias to 3-inch 
or 5-inch pots, according to their size. Pot on Primula 
obconica, sinensis, Kewensis and malacoides, and keep 
them cool and shaded. Pot successional batches of 
freesias. Give a further shift to Coleus thyrsoideus, this 
time to 7-inch pots. Stake liliums and top-dress them. 
If cuttings of Salvia splendens were taken from the points 
of the plants now standing in the open a few weeks back 
they will now be ready for 3-inch pots, and will make nice 
short flowering stuff. Plant another lot of cucumbers in 
frames. Pinch the points out of zonal geraniums intended 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 329 

for winter flowering and keep all buds off. They will now 
bear plenty of feeding. Fumigate the greenhouse to keep 
down green-fly and thrip. Take the opportunity, now the 
fire is out, of flushing out the boiler and overhauling the 
heating apparatus. 

August 

This is usually the holiday month, and no more suitable 
time for amateur gardeners to take their annual holiday 
could occur, as it is the least busy of all months in the 
gardening calendar. 

Fruit. — Look over the directions given under last month 
and get up arrears of work. If wasps are troublesome on 
grapes, tack some tiffany over the ventilators to exclude 
them. Where strawberries were layered in 3-inch pots 
sever them from the parent plant and pot into 6-inch pots, 
using soil as advised last month. When layered into fruit- 
ing pots, stand the plants in an open part of the garden on 
boards. I much prefer standing them on boards, as there 
is no fear of their rooting through the drainage hole at the 
bottom as they would do — ^much to their detriment (be- 
cause the roots have eventually to be broken) — if stood 
over ashes or gravel. As the fruit is gathered from peaches 
the trees may again be subjected to syringing to keep down 
red-spider. 

Flowers. — Cuttings should now be taken of all kinds 
of bedding plants, such as zonal, scented-leaved and ivy- 
leaved pelargoniums, fuchsias, coleuses, ageratum, helio- 
trope, lobelia, begonia, verbena and similar subjects. 
These may be put in boxes and stood either outside or in 
a cold frame. Those subjects which are to be set directly 
in a prepared cold frame may be left until next month. 
Heliotropes which were rooted a month or six weeks ago 
may now be potted into 3-inch pots. I refer to those 



330 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

which are to be grown as standards. An ordinary green- 
house temperature will best suit them for a time. Take 
cuttings of ornamental coleuses to make large plants for 
next summer. Those struck from cuttings last year are 
now huge plants and decidedly ornamental. Pot up an 
early batch of Roman hyacinths and Paper-white Narcissi 




2 







Diagra.7n 74.— August : i. Heliotrope for standard potted singly in 3-inch pot. 
2. Lachenalias potted up six in a pot. 3. Bud of chrysanthemum appearing, 
showing growths to be pinched out. 4. Pinch out all side growths which 
subsequently appear. 



to provide flowers from November onwards, and after 
watering plunge them in ashes. Move campanulas in- 
tended for conservatory use from 6-inch to 8-inch pots, and 
stand them outside. Those already in large pots will be 
making a fine display with their tall, flower-filled spikes. 
Pot up lachenalias in 5-inch or 6-inch pots and keep in cool 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 331 

qaarters. Calanthes will now be showing their flower 
spikes. Vigorous bulbs will generally throw up two spikes 
and sometimes small spikes are thrown out from some 
way up the bulb. They may still be fed hberally until the 
leaves begin to yellow. At that time they should be 
watered less frequently and may also be set more closely 
together. Chrysanthemums will fast be showing their 
buds, and all these should be retained, the side growths 
which cluster round the bud being pinched out. Beware 
of earwigs about this time. They do much damage by 
eating the buds. They must certainly be trapped. If not 
already done, a top-dressing should be given to them. All 
side growths should be religiously pulled out. Border 
carnation and Malmaison layers which are rooted may now 
be potted into 3-inch pots in sandy soil, and be put back 
into a frame. Pot winter-flowering stocks to 5-inch pots, 
and after a week pinch out the points of each. Sow 
schizanthus and Clarkia elegans for flowering in pots in the 
spring. Leaf cuttings of gloxinias will now be throwing 
up their growths, and the old leaf will soon die off. They 
may safely be left in the box until the end of the year. 
Until the end of this month all flowers should be pinched 
off such winter-flowering subjects as zonal geraniums, 
salvias, primulas, cyclamen and Lorraine begonias. All 
these plants wifl bear liberal feeding with manure-water, 
and occasionally a dusting of Clay's. So also will eupa- 
toriums and scented-leaved geraniums. Move Primula 
obconica to 6-inch pots and keep them in a cool and fairly 
shady situation. Get up some plants of Canterbury bell 
from the open garden and pot singly in 3-inch or three 
plants in a 6-inch pot. Make out the order for bulbs for 
forcing, else the best will be sold. Do not rely on bulbs 
bought at sales. They are rarely satisfactory and reflect 
no credit on the grower. 



332 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

September 

Fruit. — There is not a great amount of work among the 
fruit just now. All kinds will need plenty of air, but 
mildew must be guarded against. Should a succession of 
rainy days occur it will be necessary again to have recourse 




Diagram 75. — September : i. Cut out old fruiting wood of peach-trees like the 
centra! growth. 2. Violets planted in a frame with light drawn off. 3. Cauli- 
flowers and lettuces pricked off in a frame with the light propped up to give 
plenty of air. 4. Standard heliotrope further removed to s-inch pot. 

to the fire and to keep a gentle circulation of heat in the 
pipes, which will tend to keep the atmosphere in a buoyant 
state. Bad berries must be cut out of grapes, both for 
the sake of appearances and to prevent others from going 
bad. See that all peaches are fully exposed to the sun, and 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 333 

that no growths or leaves overshadow them. If on the 
point of ripening, go over them every day and pick all that 
part easily from the tree. Never gather or attempt to 
gather peaches with the thumb and fingers. The whole 
hand should envelop the fruit as it would a cricket ball 
when bowling, A slight pull and an almost imperceptible 
twist will soon show whether the fruit is ready for gathering. 
If all the fruit has been gathered the wood which has 
fruited may be cut out, which will simplify the winter 
pruning. Set out strawberries in full sun at such a 
distance apart that they do not touch. Pinch all runners 
off. The leaves of tomatoes may be rather drastically 
trimmed to let in the sun to unripened fruit. Such plants 
as are not worth keeping may be cut out — the green fruit 
will be found useful for pickling. Large fruit nearing ripen- 
ing may be put on a greenhouse shelf to finish. Melons 
should be cut when ripe, a sign being when a crack appears 
near the stalk. They improve by being left for a few days 
before being used. 

Flowers. — Prick off schizanthuses and Clarkias sown last 
month. Clarkias do not care for root disturbance, so must 
be treated carefully. Keep them quite cold and exposed 
in a frame except to rain. Only by this means can sturdy 
plants be obtained. Prepare a cold frame for cuttings 
of violas, pentstemons, antirrhinums, calceolarias and 
marguerites. If, however, there is a desire not to cut the 
plants about or sufficient cuttings are not available there 
need be no hesitation in delaying the work for a month. 
This is the month when most of the winter-flowering plants 
which have stood outside during the summer will be 
brought into the greenhouse. I must refer readers to the 
part of this book devoted to that subject. The plants 
referred to are zonal, ivy-leaved and scented geraniums, 
salvias, eupatoriums, perpetual-flowering carnations and 



334 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

chrysanthemums. Only the large-flowering chrysanthe- 
mums need be brought in towards the end of the month. 
The bush 'mums and singles may often be safely left out 
until the end of October. Give the plants a liberal dusting 
of sulphur before bringing them in. This will check mildew, 
and a syringing of sulphide of potassium (one ounce to 
three gallons clear water) will do the same for rust. Sow a 
further supply of mignonette in pots if this sweet-scented 
flower is liked. Pot rooted cuttings of pelargoniums into 
2|-inch pots. The old plants will now be breaking. 
Heliotropes intended for tall plants may be moved from 
3-inch to 5-inch pots, also ivy-leaved geraniums for a 
similar purpose. Gloxinias may be dried off in a warm 
house beneath the staging. Fuchsias and begonias should 
also be dried off. If it is intended to grow sweet-peas for 
the greenhouse a sowing should be made this month in a 
cold frame. The best of the stocks may now be moved to 
7-inch pots. All bulbs for forcing are best potted by the 
end of this month. When only a few bulbs are used in the 
beds I would advise potting each separately in a 3-inch pot 
and plunging in ashes until the summer beds have been 
cleared. Thus the bulbs will have a start of about six 
weeks. Coleus cuttings rooted last month will be ready 
for shifting into single pots. The present is a good month 
for making up a frame for violets and planting them in 
it. Keep them as sturdy as possible by throwing the lights 
open on all but occasions of very heavy rain. Cauliflowers 
sown outside, also lettuces, may be pricked off into a frame 
to afford some protection during winter. Pot up arum 
lilies from the open ground, or re-pot them if they have 
been dried off in pots. Bring a few freesias to warmer 
quarters but do not attempt to force them hard. Move such 
cinerarias as deserve it to 6-inch pots. Primulas and cycla- 
men should be brought from the frame to the greenhouse. 




A COLONY OF THE CHASTE WHITE iVRUM LiLY, KNOWN ALSO AS 
CaLLA and RiCHARDIA ^4iTHIOPICA 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 



335 



October 

Fruit. — When tomatoes are over, the old stems, etc., 
should be burnt, but unless the plants have been diseased 
the soil may be set somewhere under cover, and will prove 
useful for seed boxes in the early part of the year. Vines, 






Diagratn 76. — October : i. Standard heliotrope, all side growths pinched 
out, and (Fig. 2) staked. 3. Viola cutting with few roots attached, pulled from 
centre of plant. 4. Store tree leaves in a hole, well drained, if no other con- 
venience exists. 

peaches and figs should now have a fairly good watering 
to last them over the winter. The leaves will now be 
falling off. This process should not be unduly hurried. 
If the houses are kept fairly open it will occur in due course, 



336 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

but to keep a tidier appearance many will come off if 
brushed upwards with a birch or a bass broom. If there 
is red-spider or scale on them it would be better to burn 
them all straight away. What grapes are left now would 
be better cut off the vines and bottled, as they will keep 
better in a dry room than they would in a house where 
there are so many plants, and where there would naturally 
be too much moisture. Strawberries will be best plunged 
in a frame in some fresh gathered leaves. This is done to 
preserve the pots and to keep the plants free from heavy 
rains. Plenty of air should be given, the lights being drawn 
back on all possible occasions. 

Flowers. — Stake heliotropes and ivies with thin stakes 
and pinch out all the side growths of the former. Stake 
as neatly as possible the growths of begonia, Gloire de 
Lorraine, and allow now the flowers to develop. Sow sweet- 
peas in pots four in each 5-inch pot, and plunge them in 
ashes in a cold frame. They will germinate in a few weeks' 
time, and from that time onwards may be kept as freely 
ventilated as possible. Cover the frame with a net to keep 
out sparrows, which are very fond of nipping off the young 
growths. Move the best pots of mignonette from 5-inch 
to 7-inch pots, using plenty of mortar rubble in the com- 
post. Select the best rooted cuttings of fuchsias to form 
standards, and pot them singly in 3-inch pots. Get the 
decorative and single chrysanthemums inside at the end 
of the month. Move Calla lilies into the greenhouse. 
Pot up early-flowering chrysanthemums from outside to 
afford flowers until the others come on. There will by the 
end of the month be plenty of viola cuttings, which may be 
pulled from the centre of the plants with a few roots 
attached. Small pelargoniums will now bear removal to 
3-inch or 4-inch pots. Border carnations at present in 3- 
inch pots may be moved to 6-inch if it is intended to flower 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 337 

them in pots. An airy situation in a cold house will best 
suit them. Two-year-old plants in large pots may be 
top-dressed with Peruvian guano or Clay's. Tree carna- 
tions will also benefit by a similar top-dressing. These 
will now be giving their flowers very freely, but an eye must 
be kept on them, else many will be destroyed by earwigs. 
The present is a very good time for making a stack of turf 
for potting purposes. If made now with layers of manure 
between it will be in a good state by the spring. A dusting 
of lime during the process will benefit it considerably. 
Gather together all possible tree leaves for forming leaf- 
soil. It needs to stand a year or even two to be really 
useful for potting. Clear away old hotbeds, working the 
material in the ground during digging or trenching. 
Calanthes are showing colour and will not now require 
any water. If arranged among maidenhair ferns, they give 
a decidedly pleasing effect. Roman hyacinths and Paper- 
white Narcissi may now be removed from the ashes and 
introduced into the greenhouse after a few days' sojourn in 
a cold frame. Force retarded crowns of lilies of the 
valley. Pot up all outdoor plants intended for forcing, 
and plunge the pots in ashes in a convenient part of the 
garden. Get up dahlias, cannas. Salvia patens. Lobelia 
cardinalis and early-flowering chrysanthemums from the 
border and put in boxes in a frame, except the dahlias, 
which may be stored in any dry frost-proof shed. Pot or 
box old plants from the beds of such as are required for 
furnishing cuttings in the spring. Move cinerarias to 
7-inch pots. Stake freesias now being moved along in 
the greenhouse. Cypripediums are now throwing up their 
flower spikes and should be set in such a position as to pro- 
vide a telling effect. Primula obconica will also be flower- 
ing freely and may be expected to do so for many months 
to come. Wash off all permanent shading from green- 



338 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

houses and frames, and put away canvas blinds when dry. 
Get in a supply of mats or other suitable coverings for pro- 
tecting frames from frost. Stake Clarkias, stocks and 
schizanthuses. Move cuttings of bedding geraniums to a 
house somewhat warmer than a cold frame, and keep them 
on the dry side during winter. Clear out cucumbers from 
frames. Keep the fire going nicely during frosty weather. 

November 

Fruit. — After the grapes are cut and stored, the vines 
may be pruned, cutting each growth back to two e3-es. 
Keep the vines as cold as possible, throwing the house com- 
pletely open if this can be done. There is no fear of frost 
hurting them, but if this is done a little heat should be run 
through the pipes to prevent them being frozen. The rods 
may now be cleaned and painted over with Timothy & 
Sandwith's winter dressing. Peach-trees and figs should 
be similarly treated. If figs are infested with scale, scrub 
them well with hot, soapy water before applying the winter 
dressing. Get a frame ready for potatoes and make a 
commencement with forcing asparagus, seakale, and 
rhubarb if these are wanted especially early. Put some 
dwarf beans in boxes for forcing, but pot them up as soon 
as they are three inches above the soil. At the end of the 
month sow a few tomatoes for an early supply of fruit. 

Flowers. — Chrysanthemums are now in full flower and 
should be staged up so as to present the best appearance. 
Towards the end of the month a few cuttings may be taken. 
Use only basal or suckerous growths. Stake out the best 
of the zonal geraniums, which will now be making a 
splendid show. Keep the atmosphere diy and the plants 
also on the dr}/- side. Look over the bulbs in ashes and 
put in a cold frame all that are sufficiently grown. Bulbs 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 



339 



grown in boxes make a fine display in the greenhouse if 
fifty or more are grown in one box. If used for conserva- 
tory decoration bulbs should be neatly staked, but if for 
cut flowers only, such neat staking is not needed. Pot up 
Berlin crowns of lilies of valley and plunge in the open 
garden, where they will be subjected to frost. Move 





4 




Diagram 77.— November and December : i. Pruning vine : a, where to cut ; 
b, portion previously cut off with the bunch of grapes ; c and d, cuts— c not being 
a good one. 2. Pruning back where there is an old spur : a, where to cut ; 
b, portion previously' cut off ; c and d, cuts — d being too close to bud. 3. Crown 
of lily of valley and how to pot them. 4. Gladiolus corm potted. Six maybe 
put in 5-inch pot and be later removed to 7-inch. 

coleuses to 6-inch pots and a little later pinch out the points 
to promote a bushy habit of growth. Buy in liliums and 
pot into large pots, three in each. Keep the bulbs low 
down and just covered, so that they may be top-dressed 
when growing. Chimney campanulas and Canterbury 
bells in pots had better be removed to a cold house or 
frame to preserve the pots. Freesias should flower at the 



340 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

end of November or early in December. If well grown, 
with plenty of feeding most of the spikes should produce 
eight to ten or even twelve flowers. I have had as many 
as thirty-three buds form from one bulb. Calanthes also 
repay good treatment. A few years ago I had one bulb 
produce four spikes with eighty-two flowers on. The 
best produced thirty-nine, the others twenty-four, ten and 
nine. The last two were thrown from the upper part of 
the pseudo-bulb. As the flowers are cut off the plants 
may be set on their sides beneath the staging, or preferably 
on a shelf until they start again in March or April. Choose 
the best rooted cuttings of Calceolaria amplexicaulis, and 
pot up for growing into taller plants. 



December 

Fruit and Vegetables. — If vines have not been 
pruned last month the work should be done at once, else 
they will probably bleed, which means that the sap will 
exude from the cut surface. This occurs when the vine has 
practically completed its season of rest and is starting into 
renewed activity. It will easily be noticed by an observ- 
ant person. To remedy it, wipe the face of the cut surface 
quite dry and apply carpenter's " knotting." But avoid 
pruning so late in the following season. After dressing 
with winter-dressing as previously advised, tie in the 
growths of peaches and figs. There is plenty of time in 
the new year to tie vines permanently into place. Sow a 
few tomatoes, such as Carter's Sunrise, thinly in a box or 
pan, and put them in a temperature of 55° to 60°. They 
will germinate in rather more than a week. Towards the 
end of the month they may be pricked off in boxes a few 
inches apart, but do not use any manure of any kind in 



A GREENHOUSE CALENDAR 341 

the soil. Prick off also any that were sown last month. 
Chop turf for top-dressing vine borders. 

If broad beans and green peas were not sown in boxes 
last month it would be well to do so now. When they 
appear move them to cooler quarters. They must not be 
hastened or they will be too large before they can be 
planted out. Keep up a succession of French beans by 
making a small sowing every two or three weeks. Prick 
off some nice young cauliflowers from the open ground into 
large pots now free from chrysanthemums, four in each 
pot, and grow them along steadily until the end of February, 
when they may be planted without separation in the 
open. Make a sowing in boxes of Ailsa Craig onion, also 
of cauliflower and lettuce. Prepare a frame for potatoes, 
or, if not available, set one or two tubers in large pots. 
Force asparagus, seakale and rhubarb. 

Flowers. — ^December is essentially the month for taking 
chrysanthemum cuttings. A few may be taken in 
November, but the bulk will not be available till now. I 
believe firmly in getting all possible cuttings in during 
December, be they early or late. If pots are not available 
— and. certainly they are best for the purpose — a good 
propagator should be able to root a large percentage in 
boxes. Clean the late-flowering varieties, which should 
keep us supplied with flowers till February. A few early 
cuttings put in during November will now be rooted, and 
may be potted into 2-inch pots. Pot liliums three in a 
large pot and put into a cold but frost-proof frame. Make 
out the seed order at once and thus avoid disappointment 
and delay. Move cyclamen from pans and small pots to 
slightly larger ones, but keep them still in a warm tempera- 
ture. Pot up gladiolus — The Bride, and others of a similar 
nature. I prefer putting them in 5-inch and moving them 
to 7-inch pots in the spring. I think the foliage keeps 



342 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

better by this means. Bring azaleas, deutzias, lilacs, 
spaphyleas, spiraeas and similar forcing plants into heat 
a few at a time. Pinch the points out of show pelar- 
goniums if the growths are sufficiently advanced. Be- 
ware of rats and mice, which are very partial to tulips in 
the frame. Shake out old corms of gloxinias, soak them 
well and start them in heat in boxes of leaf-soil. Put a 
handlight or small frame over Christmas roses to forward 
the flowers and to keep them clean. Cart all available 
road grit from the neighbouring roads unless much tar is 
fused on them. If stored in a dry place it will prove useful 
for mixing with other soil for potting. During wet weather 
or evenings make a sufficient quantity of flower boxes. 
Keep the fire going steadily during the day and more 
vigorously at night, to prevent sharp fluctuations of tem- 
peratuie, which are especially harmful at this season. 
Dry all flower pots before using. Often they appear dry 
when they are not, and if plants are potted in wet, dirty 
or damp pots they will not turn out without serious break- 
age of roots. Do not attempt this month to pot plants 
which may safely be left till the turn of the year. Be very 
careful to water plants only when they really need it. 
There is great danger of over-watering just now. Water 
frames in the morning, as if left wet from an afternoon 
watering they are more liable to injury from frost. Take 
an impartial survey of successes and failures during the 
past year, and try to do better next year. There is always 
room for improvement. It is the largest room in the 
world. 



GLOSSARY 

This brief glossary is intended to explain the meaning of words 
and expressions which, though familiar and commonplace 
enough to gardeners, are quite unintelligible to outsiders. It 
will be more convenient to treat the matter in alphabetical 
order. 

Adventitious or aerial roots are those which spring from the 
stem of a tree or plant. They often occur on the grape vine, 
the tomato and liliums. Their presence is usually a sign that 
there is not sufficient nourishment in the soil, or the root-action 
is bad, though it may often also be ascribed to an excessively 
humid atmosphere. When the roots occur on the rod of a 
grape vine it would be well to attend more closely to the ventila- 
tion. The roots should not be cut off, but in the autumn they 
will usually rub off. The presence of such roots need not, 
however, cause any serious alarm. 

Aerial. — Same as Adventitious. 

Air, to, a house, means to ventilate it. See page 261. 

Air Tap. — A small tap placed in the hot-water pipes at their 
highest point in the house, so that it may be opened to admit 
the escape of air which is likely to accumulate in the pipes and 
stop the circulation of heat. Sometimes an open lead pipe is 
attached to the pipes at this point and led up the roof of the 
house, so that the end is higher than the supply tank which feeds 
the boiler. Personally, I much prefer a tap. These taps 
should be examined periodically, especially so during winter, 
when the fire is being driven hard. 

Annual. — ^An annual is a plant which grows and flowers 
from seed within a year and then dies. 

Anthracite. — This is a very hard class of coal often used for 
greenhouse fires. It has the advantage of lasting a long while 

343 



344 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

without much attention, and gives a strong heat with practi- 
cally no smoke or flame. On this account the flues do not get 
blocked up as with ordinary house coal or with coke. Anthra- 
cite coal requires a strong draught, but must not be poked so 
frequently as other fuel. It is dearer than other coal or than 
coke, but goes further, and when the question of labour is con- 
sidered I think it has the advantage over other forms of fuel. 
The prices, which fluctuate, should be watched so that a yearly 
supply may be got in when prices rule low. This usually occurs 
in the summer. Dusty anthracite should be avoided. 

Aphis.— A name given to green and black fly, which are very 
destructive, but if dealt with in good time this pest is not 
difficult to get rid of. See page 292, under Green-fly. 

Archangel. — Mats made of bast or the inner bark of the 
lime are given this name. They usually run to a little over a 
shilling each. A few should be bought each year for covering 
frames. With care in drying and storing them they will last 
two or three years. 

Artificial. — ^This is a loose term applied generally to chemi- 
cal manures or those which undergo some process of manu- 
facture and is used to distinguish them from natural manures. 
Directions for using patent fertilisers which come under this 
heading are given when the manures are sold, and should be 
strictly followed. If the dose be overgiven it is quite likely 
that harm will result. The use of crude " artificial " manures 
should not be indulged in by those who are inexperienced, 
although in view of the increasing difficulty of obtaining dung 
it is advised that an increased knowledge of these manures 
should be gained by study and experiment. 

Bank in or Bank up. — An expression used in connection 
with making up a greenhouse fire to last through the night. 
The points to remember are that the fire at the time be rather 
low, that it be freed from clinkers and ashes, that the live coals 
are spread evenly over the bars, that the large lumps of coal 
or coke be put in first, that this be followed by smaller lumps, 
that a layer of dusty coal, coke or wet ashes be put on last, and 



GLOSSARY 345 

that the fire door, ash-pit door and damper be so regulated 
that the fuel will burn through, leave a workable fire in the 
morning, and yet keep the temperature in the greenhouse 
within five degrees of what it was at the time of banking 
in. 

Basal. — Growths springing from the root stock of a plant 
are called basal growths and in the case of most herbaceous 
plants, and especially of chrysanthemums, are far the best 
growths to break off as cuttings for propagation. 

Base. — ^The base of a tree, a branch or a shoot, is the point 
whence it springs from the ground or from some lower part 
of the tree. 

Bast. — ^The inner bark of the lime-tree known as bast or 
matting was at one time greatly used for tying, but is now 
generally superseded by raffia grass, which is more easily and 
deftly manipulated. 

Batch. — ^When a successional supply of plants are required 
the whole quantity is divided into what are known as 
"batches," and so brought along or retarded as to extend 
the use over as long a period as possible. 

Bell-glasses. — ^The French word cloche has since the boom- 
ing of French gardening well-nigh superseded the old English 
word, but both mean a glass cover shaped like a bell to protect 
or forward plants in the open ground. A few bell-glasses are 
always useful in the garden, but especially during the spring 
months. 

Bench System. — ^The practice of growing plants on benches 
filled with soil is very prevalent in America, but less so in 
England, where its occasional use is sometimes favoured by 
nurserymen. With American tree carnations, however, it is 
sometimes adopted with profitable results by private gardeners. 
The bench or staging is covered with eight to twelve inches of 
soil duly supported at the sides by boards, and the carnations 
are planted therein about a foot apart. The system is not 
recommended for amateur growers. 

Bicolor. — As the name implies, this is used to denote a 



346 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

flower which has two distinct colours. An example among 
sweet-peas would be Mrs Andrew Ireland or Mrs Cuthbertson. 

Biennial. — ^A plant which flowers the year following that 
in which the seed is sown and dies immediately afterwards is 
termed a biennial. 

Bizarre. — ^A term used by florists to denote a flower which 
has two colours on a white ground. Thus in carnations there 
are scarlet, purple, crimson and pink bizarre, according to the 
predominant colour apart from the ground colour. 

Blanch. — ^To whiten the stems of plants by excluding the 
light. The only subjects which concern us in the garden under 
glass are seakale and chicory. These are either grown in a 
dark shed or have empty pots inverted over them in the green- 
house. Unless whitened in this way the produce would be 
useless. 

Bleach. — See Blanch. 

Bleed. — A plant is said to bleed when sap exudes from a cut 
surface. We have a familiar example in the vine, which, if 
pruned late, exudes sap at the cut surface. The best advice 
that can be given is to prune not later than November for 
vines which are to be started into growth early in the year. 
In fact it would be wise to do so as soon as the leaves have 
nearly all fallen. Bleeding may be noticed by there being 
always a wet surface with apparently a drop of water there. 
The surface of the cut should be wiped quite dry and coated 
with carpenter's knotting. 

Blind. — Plants which have no growing centre and side- 
growths — in fact, no buds above ground — are said to be blind. 
Those also are blind which do not flower at their specified time. 
One often has to throw away strawberry plants intended for 
forcing because in the spring they show no signs of flowering. 

Bloom. — ^The waxy coating giving a dull appearance to 
apples, grapes, plums, etc., is called the bloom. It enhances 
the appearance of the fruit, and should as far as possible be 
preserved. It is very easily rubbed off. Density of bloom on 
grapes is an attribute prized by gardeners. 



GLOSSARY 347 

Bog-peat. — ^This is so named to distinguish it from the 
upland peat which is found on higher levels. For general 
greenhouse purposes the upland peat is preferable, as it 
is more fibrous. Bog-peat cannot be recommended for 
orchids. 

Boilers. — ^These are the furnaces combined with cavities 
in which water is heated and made to circulate through pipes 
in the greenhouse. There are so many types of boiler that it 
is very difficult to choose between them. Amateurs, however, 
would be well advised to have either a small upright boiler or 
a sectional one. Illustrations and prices may be obtained 
from firms advertising in the gardening papers. It is essential 
that the flues of a boiler be kept clear and that the boiler itself 
be flushed out each autumn. Soft water is advised for use in 
boilers. 

Bottling. — The only bottling which directly concerns us 
as gardeners is the storing of grapes in bottles. A few remarks 
on the subject will be found on page 163. 

Bottom Heat. — It is often found necessary for successful 
growth that the temperature of the soil exceeds that of the 
atmosphere. In such a case means must be taken to give 
heat below the surface. This is usually done by running the 
hot-water pipes beneath, as in a propagator or a melon-house, 
but bottom heat may also be obtained by means of strawy 
horse manure and leaves formed into a hotbed. How to make 
a hotbed has been described on page 193. 

Box Frame. — A wooden frame formed like a box. It has 
the advantage over pits that it can be moved from place to 
place. Thus if during the winter it has been sheltering sweet- 
peas in pots, it may be removed in March without disturbing 
the plants and be set over antirrhinums just pricked off. In 
May it may be used for covering heliotropes and afterwards 
for setting over a hotbed and growing cucumbers. 

Box, to. — ^To place plants in boxes, such as when seedlings 
are pricked. Useful sizes for boxing are 30 inches by 12 or 
24 by 15. I much prefer the latter figures. The inside 



348 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

depth should be 3 or 4 inches. Boxes should be dried and 
stored away after use. 

Bract. — The decorative top of a plant whose leaves sur- 
rounding the flower are highly coloured. We have a familiar 
example in the greenhouse in the poinsettia (Euphorbia pul- 
cherrima), where the flowers themselves are insignificant but 
are surrounded by leaves of a brilliant red. 

Break. — ^A term denoting movement into growth. Thus a 
plant is said to make a break into growth. The terms first 
break and natural break are often used in connection with 
the culture of chrysanthemums. The first break is when the 
plant has been topped and several of the side buds develop 
into growth. If topping is not done it will usually be found 
that at some time in spring, or before June has far advanced, 
the top growth will form a flower bud and the side growths 
will commence to develop. This bud is termed the break bud 
and the growth of the side growths is described as a natural 
break. 

Bud, — ^The incipient growths usually found at the base of 
the leaves, which eventually develop into leaves or flowers. 
In the question of buds for chrysanthemums I would refer 
readers to page 64, where the terms break bud, crown bud 
and terminal are explained. 

Bunks. — ^A name applied to pieces of broad bean stems 
used for the purpose of trapping earwigs among peaches, 
chrysanthemums, etc. Hollow pieces about four inches in 
length are chosen and placed among the leaves and branches. 
Each morning these are taken out and the earwigs are expelled 
into a jar of salt water by blowing. 

Bush. — ^A form of growth where the branches grow out in 
great numbers and the plant takes the form, for instance, of 
a thorn bush. Bush chrysanthemums are those which are 
allowed to develop a lot of side growths and produce a lot of 
flowers. They are so called to distinguish them from the large- 
flowering section when only three or four large flowers are 
allowed on each plant. 



GLOSSARY 349 

Callus. — Some little time after a cutting has been inserted 
the base begins to swell preparatory to the emission of roots. 
This is called " callusing," and it is a fairly certain sign that 
the cutting will eventually throw out roots. Certainly it is a 
sign that the species to which the cutting belongs is amenable 
to this form of propagation. 

Cast. — ^Flower pots are usually sold by the cast. A certain 
number goes to the cast according to the size. The larger the 
size of the pot the smaller the number in a cast. 

Check. — ^A check is said to be given to a plant when there is 
some disturbance which temporarily stops its growth. A chill, 
removal to colder quarters, the state of being root-bound, 
shortage of water, frost, breakage, repotting, pinching the 
growths — these are some of the factors which cause a check. 

Chit. — ^The growths which form on a potato before it is 
planted are called chits. Often these are encouraged to form 
to the extent of an inch to induce a better crop. To start the 
tubers thus they should be set in a shallow tray or box placed 
in a cool but not hot greenhouse a few weeks prior to 
planting. 

Clinker. — ^The hard substances which form on the bars of a 
greenhouse fire are called clinkers. They occur chiefly when 
the fire is being driven hard. They are extracted by running 
the fire bar beneath them when the fire is somewhat low, up- 
lifting them and then pulling them out. They are useful for 
putting into the bottom of newly made paths. 

Cloche. — ^A French word for bell-glass — which see. 

Cocoa-nut Fibre. — The refuse from cocoa-nut fibre is valu- 
able for putting in a propagator, or for mixing with soil for 
seeds, as it holds moisture well without keeping out air. 

Coddle. — To coddle a plant is to make too much of it — to 
give it too warm a temperature, or too close an atmosphere. 
In its effect it is not less harmful than neglect. 

Collar. — ^A piece of tin or zinc put round the inner rim of 
a flower pot and standing an inch or more above it so as to 
increase its capacity for holding soil is termed a collar. The 



350 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

same purpose is formed by making a mound over the rim 
composed of clay and cow manure. 

That part of the stem of a plant immediately above the 
surface soil is called the collar. The term is chiefly used in 
reference to melons, which are very apt to rot of! at this point. 
This may largely be prevented by mounding a little soil round 
it to throw off the water and by putting a sprinkling of lime at 
that point. 

Condensation. — A condensation channel is a groove formed 
on each side of the sash-bars forming the roof of the green- 
house for the purpose of carrying to the bottom, and eventually 
outside into the gutter, the moisture which condenses on the 
inner surface of the glass of a hothouse. If this were not thus 
carried away it would form itself into drops of water and fall 
on to the plants, probably damaging them. 

CoRM. — The swollen part of a plant beneath the surface 
somewhat resembling a bulb, but without any apparent scales 
as a true bulb has. The crocus and the cyclamen give us 
examples of corms. 

Crock. — A piece of broken flower pot. To crock a pot is to 
put pieces of broken pots in it to form drainage. 

Crown. — Plants which have thick root stocks containing 
buds have often the root stock called the crown. A familiar 
example is the spiraea. 

The crown bud of a chrysanthemum is that which appears 
after the break bud, or the first that appears after the plants 
have been pinched. They usually appear in August. If they 
appear too early they are pinched out, and the next bud that 
appears is called the second crown bud. 

Cutback. — It is the practice of some growers to cut back to 
a few inches of their base all chrysanthemums about the time 
of moving them to their flowering pots at the end of May. The 
growths are then allowed to grow straight along without further 
pinching. Such plants are called " cutbacks." 

Damp down. — To sprinkle water over the floor and other 
open surfaces of a fruit house for the purpose of promoting a 



GLOSSARY 351 

humid atmosphere. In the case of a vinery this is done three 
times a day — at the time of opening the house, at noon, and 
when the house is closed for the day. 

Damp off. — When seedHngs decay close to the soil and 
wither they are attacked by a disease which gardeners call 
damping off. To avoid this evil, sow thinly, water carefully, 
keep an evenly balanced atmosphere and prick off early. 

Decorative. — Plants used for purposes of decoration rather 
than exhibition are termed decorative. A decorative plant 
should give a wealth of flowers if it is to retain its reputation. 

Dibber. — ^A stick or setting peg used for making holes into 
which to set cuttings or seedlings. It should not be sharply 
pointed. 

Dibble. — To set seedlings or cuttings into holes with a 
dibber. 

Dip. — ^A most effective method of ridding a pot plant from 
a pest is to dip it bodily in an insecticide. Choose a bucket or 
tub, place the palm of one hand over the surface of the ball of 
soil, invert it and dip it in the insecticide working it backwards 
and forwards and up and down for a few minutes. 

Disbud. — This means to take out buds or growths which are 
not required. For instance after the buds of a chrysanthemum 
are selected all side growths which appear are pinched out. 
So with peaches suitably placed growths are allowed and the 
others pinched out. 

Division. — ^Ferns and similar plants which have a root stock 
bearing many buds or crowns may be increased by breaking 
them apart. Every piece which possesses a bud and a few 
roots will under ordinary conditions grow. 

Dot. — ^A dot plant is one which is raised above its fellows. 
They are often dotted about along the front of the staging to 
break the formality of the arrangement. 

Drawn. — A plant is said to be drawn when, instead of being 
short and stocky, it is long and attenuated. This is usually 
brought about by too high a temperature, too moist and close 
an atmosphere, too great a distance from the glass, and an over- 



352 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

crowded state. When a plant is seen to be becoming drawn 
it should at once be given more room, more air, more light. 

Drip. — -The question of drip or the falling from the roof 
of condensed moisture has already been alluded to under 
" Condensation." It here remains to be said that these 
grooves or channels should be made in all houses erected. 
The fall of water from shelves on to plants below should also 
be avoided either by keeping plants from a position beneath 
them, or by grooving the shelf to admit of the water running 
to the ends and being led on to the flooring or a drain. 

Evaporating Pans. — It is an old rather than a modern idea 
to have pans built over the hot -water pipes in vineries or plant 
houses to be kept filled with water. The idea is that by being 
over the warm pipes moisture will be discharged into the 
atmosphere. Modern gardeners, however, find no need for 
them, and I certainly do not advise them. 

Expansion Joints. — ^There are two forms of joints generally 
used in connecting up hot-water pipes. These are known as 
socket joints and expansion joints. The socket joints are 
formed by caulking the space with red lead and tow. These 
are very effective when the work is properly done, but they 
are very difficult to take apart. The expansion joint is formed 
by screwing two flanges of iron tightly together round the pipes 
so as to expand a rubber ring placed on the open end. By this 
expansion of the rubber the water is kept back. A few minutes 
only are required to uncouple the pipes. 

Express Forcing. — Forcing plants into growth very 
quickly. This is done by giving a strong temperature and an 
atmosphere charged with moisture. Such forcing is strongly 
to be condemned except in cases of emergency. Certainly 
amateurs should never need to indulge in express forcing. 

Eye. — ^A popular term used to denote a bud or incipient 
growth. Propagation from eyes or buds in their elementary 
form is practised in the case of the grape vine. 

Feeder. — ^The tank in the heating apparatus by means of 
which water is supplied to the boiler and pipes is often called 



GLOSSARY 353 

a feeder. Personally I like to have the feeder or supply tank 
fitted to the return pipes rather than directly on the boiler. 
When fitted directly over the boiler the water is very likely 
to swell or boil over to a much greater extent than if put farther 
away on the return pipe. 

Feeding. — ^To give food to a plant in the way of animal or 
chemical manure either in a liquid or dry form. Plants should 
only be fed when they have pretty well exhausted the nourish- 
ment provided in the soil, in other words, when they have filled 
the soil with roots. Remarks on feeding are given on page 238. 

Fertilise. — ^To cause fruit to set regularly and evenly by 
means of artificial pollination. Thus in the melon the male 
flower is put to the female flower to ensure their setting. The 
pollination of tomatoes, strawberries and peaches is ensured 
by touching each flower daily with a rabbit's tail until the petals 
drop. This individual fertilisation is not needed with grapes, 
where the pollen is distributed by giving the rod a sharp rap at 
midday. 

Fertiliser. — Patent or proprietary manures are often called 
fertilisers because they increase the fertility of the soil. Too 
much must not be expected of these manures, which are at best 
only supplementary to good soil and good culture. 

Fibre. — See Cocoa-nut Fibre. 

Fibrous Loam. — Loam endowed with fibre in the way of 
the roots of grass. The thin narrow wiry roots are termed 
fibrous to distinguish them from more fleshy roots, such as those 
of couch-grass, which have but few branches to them. Fibrous 
loam is preferred because the roots hold it together well and 
let in the air, and keep the soil more open without sacrificing 
firmness. 

Flag. — A plant is said to flag when its leaves droop down 
through any cause. This may occur through lack of water, 
through direct exposure to sunshine after a dull period or 
through some pest at the roots. When lack of water is the 
cause the remedy of applying water is obvious. In the second 
case a light shading or a spray of lukewarm water will usually 



354 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

remedy matters. The third cause can only be cured by search- 
ing for the pest, but usually by that time the plant is beyond 
recovery. 

Flaky. — A term applied to leaf-soil before it has become 
thoroughly decayed and when it possesses flakes of leaves. 
Flaky leaf-soil is best obtained before the leaves have been 
stacked a year. When the soil has to last for a considerable 
time, flaky leaf-soil is preferable to leaf-mould. 

Flow. — ^The flow pipe in the heating apparatus is that which 
is attached to the top of the boiler and which gradually rises 
until it reaches the extreme end of the house. At this point 
the air-tap or air- pipe is fixed and the water is then carried back 
to the boiler by means of the return pipe. 

Flues. — ^The spaces through which the smoke and heat from 
a greenhouse fire travel until they reach the chimney are called 
flues. These must be kept clear from soot if the fire is to draw 
up well. Especially is this the case where ordinary house coal 
is used. The old-fashioned idea of having flues carried right 
through the house for the purpose of heating was a serviceable 
one before the use of the hot- water system was in vogue. The 
practice is now well-nigh obsolete, and cannot be recom- 
mended, for boilers and pipes are now so cheap and so 
effective as to bring them within the power of everyone's 
purse. 

Forcing. — ^To bring a plant into growth by artificial heat and 
close and humid conditions of atmosphere before its natural 
time. To bring fruit to earlier maturity is also called forcing. 
Remarks on the subject will be found on pages 121, 146, 174, 
193 and 200. 

Fore-right.— A fore-right shoot is one which grows out from 
the front of a branch instead of from the sides. As they are 
difficult to train in the case of a fruit-tree trained against a 
wall they are usually pinched out when but a few inches 
long. 

Fumigate. — ^To fill a house with the fumes of some sub- 
stance (usually containing nicotine) for the purpose of killing 



GLOSSARY 355 

insect pests without injury to the plants. Remarks on the 
subject are given on page 247. 

Grease-band. — A band of thick grease-proof paper tied 
round the stem of a fruit-tree and coated with grease which 
does not readily dry. This is put on to prevent certain female 
insects from crawling up and depositing their eggs in the 
branches of the tree. It is not usually necessary in the case of 
indoor fruit-trees, though a grease-band will often prevent the 
approach of ants, which are very troublesome to ripe peaches 
and nectarines. 

Han DLIGHT.— This serves the same purpose as a bell-glass 
or cloche (which see), though it is larger and of a different shape. 
Usually it is square in shape, with a top formed in the shape 
of a double span. When water-tight and fairly air-tight these 
appliances are very useful for seed-sowing, for rooting cuttings 
and for forwarding small plants. 

Harden. — ^To harden off plants means to gradually accustom 
them to outdoor conditions after they have been for some time 
in a heated structure. Useful remarks on how to do this will 
be found on page 265. 

Heating Material. — Beyond hot-water pipes and flues we 
have the means of heating known as a hotbed. The material 
used for this is stable litter and tree leaves, and these are known 
as heating material. Remarks on making a hotbed will be 
found on page 193. 

Heel. — When it is advised to take a cutting with a heel of 
the old wood it is meant that a small slice of the old wood 
is taken off and trimmed. This is done when there is a diffi- 
culty in rooting cuttings on the young wood. With a piece of 
the old wood attached there is not the same loss of sap or danger 
from the cutting flagging as there would be if only the soft 
young wood were used. Taking cuttings with a heel is only 
necessary with difficult subjects. 

Hip- roofed. — A vinery or plant house is called a hip-roofed 
structure, or a three-quarter span, when there is a wall at the 
back and a short length of glass leading from it upwards and 



356 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

obliquely to the apex. The first illustration of Diagram 6, 
page 13, shows a sectional plan of a hip-roofed structure and 
gives a good idea of the form. 

Hung up. — A cutting is said to be hung up when its base 
does not rest on the soil beneath. This is caused by using a 
sharp-pointed dibber. By being out of contact with the soil, 
and having a cavity of air beneath, the cutting has very little 
chance of rooting. It is essential to successful propagation 
that the base of the cutting rests firmly on the soil beneath, 
and that the surrounding soil is made sufficiently firm to pre- 
vent the cutting from being easily pulled out. If pulled by 
the leaf, its leaf should break before a cutting which has been 
properly put in can be pulled out. 

Incurved. — A flower is said to be incurved when the petals 
fold over towards the centre of the flower. The incurved 
chrysanthemum, which most readers will know, is a good 
example of this type. It is the direct reverse to reflex flowers, 
where all the petals point away from the centre of the flower. 

Larva. — -The maggot stage in the life of an insect, immediately 
following that of the egg and preceding that of the chrysalis. 
Many insects are injurious to plant life during the larva stage, 
notably the wire-worm and the vine weevil. A good illustra- 
tion of the larva of the vine weevil is given on page 303, a. 

Lateral. — ^As the name implies, a lateral is a side growth 
springing from the main growth. Any further growths which 
spring from these laterals are termed sub-laterals. 

Layer.— A layer is a growth pegged into the soil for the 
purpose of forming roots, and eventually becoming a separate 
plant. Sometimes a cut is made to facilitate rooting, as in the 
case of carnations. In other cases this is not done, as in the 
case of a cucumber, when this form of propagation is adopted. 
The purpose of layering is to allow the intended new plant to 
receive nourishment from the parent plant until it has formed 
sufficient roots to support itself, when the connection between 
them may be severed. Propagation by layers is explained on 
page 212. 



GLOSSARY 357 

Leaf Cuttings. — With plants of the Gesneraceee order 
propagation by means of leaves can readily be effected. 
The method is explained and shown by illustration on pages 
76 and 210. 

Lead. — This word is used chiefly in connection with orchids, 
and means the growth springing from the plant to eventually 
become a pseudo bulb. A better idea may be gained by refer- 
ring to Diagram 45, page 219, where on the right of the plant 
in Figure 3 a young lead is seen. 

Leading Growth. — ^The main or central growth of a plant. 

Lean-to. — A greenhouse having but one span and leaning 
against a high wall is called a lean-to house. An illustration 
of the sectional plan of a lean-to structure will be found on 
page 13, Figure 2. A lean-to structure should usually face 
the south, so as to command plenty of light and sunshine. 
A lean-to facing north is very useful in an establishment where 
there are several other glass-houses, but cannot be recommended 
as a general utility greenhouse. 

Leggy. — A plant is said to be leggy when it has become 
long, thin and attenuated instead of being dwarf and sturdy. 

Legginess is promoted by excessive heat, excessive shade, 
want of air and a crowded condition. The remedy for all these 
conditions is obvious. 

Lifting. — When a young fruit-tree — notably a peach-tree — 
becomes luxuriant in growth, it is a good plan to take it out of 
the ground in the autumn and plant it afresh. This will 
check the exuberance and help it to become prolific. Some- 
times thick fibreless roots will be found. These must be cut 
hard back to promote the production of fibrous feeding roots. 
With quite young trees the mere act of lifting them will 
sufficiently check the exuberance. The Hfting may be done 
at any time after the leaves have fallen, but preferably before 
the end of November. 

Linings. — A lining is put to a frame for the purpose of 
keeping the heat therein. In those days when the use of hot- 
water heating was not very general, heat was obtained by means 



358 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

of stable manure. To further prevent any loss of heat it was 
usual to build brickwork round these frames, at a distance of 
i8 inches to 2 feet off. and to fill the space thus made with 
more stable manure or with leaves. This undoubtedly greatly 
assisted in the maintenance of heat. Though bricked en- 
closures are not now often found, the principle is still used for 
the protection of a cold frame from frost. Here the linings are 
kept up by planks and posts, a good illustration of the manner 
and matter being found on pages 283 and 284. 

Massing. — A method of grouping plants in the conservatory 
so as to get a bold effect. All the plants of one sort, and often 
of the one colour, are staged up together in a bank or mound, 
interspersed, perhaps, with ferns or suitable foliage plants. 
It is a plan used with good effect in preference to dotting 
them about the house indiscriminately, and is now very general 
with progressive gardeners. 

Matting. — Material for tying. Raffia grass is now most 
generally employed, but it is still often called matting. The 
old material for tying was bast, or the inner bark of the lime- 
tree, but is now superseded. Other materials are used, but 
do not find so much favour as raffia, which can be bought 
cheaply in bundles. 

Mellow. — Loam is said to be mellow when it has all the 
grass in it stifled, but before the fibrous roots are decayed. 
It is in this state after it has been stacked for several months. 
In such a form it is best for the generality of greenhouse plants. 

Midrib. — ^The main or central artery of a leaf is called the 
midrib. In the case of the gloxinia and allied subjects pro- 
pagation may be effected by cutting the midrib and setting it 
in sand or sandy soil, or by pegging the leaves fiat on to the 
soil. 

Mildew. — A fungoid disease known by the presence of a 
grey powdery substance on the leaf. If not actually caused it 
is certainly spread by bad ventilation in the case of greenhouse 
plants. See page 295. 

Mossing. — When used in reference to orchids this term 



GLOSSARY 359 

means appl5nng fresh moss to the surface of plants which it is 
undesirable to repot. The term is also applied to putting fresh 
green moss over the surface of plants in the drawing-room. 
It is also used to denote putting moss round the stems of such 
plants as crotons, dracsenas, etc., after a piece has been cut out 
of them or a ring of bark peeled off. This is done to induce roots 
to be thrown out. 

Mould. — ^Another term for soil. It is used chiefly in regard to 
decayed leaves, which are described as leaf -mould. This is best 
when stacked for at least a year, and preferably for two years. 

Mulch. — ^To apply manure or leaf -soil to the surface of a 
peach or vine border for the purpose of arresting the evapora- 
tion of moisture is in gardeners' language to mulch it. The 
substance so applied is also to some extent a source of plant 
food, and it assists also by enticing roots to the surface where 
they can more easily be fed. Fruit borders are best mulched 
after the fruits have set. 

Mushroom Manure. — ^This is a short and convenient method 
of describing the horse manure which has been used for making 
mushroom beds. After the bed has become exhausted as far 
as mushroom culture is concerned, the material is very useful 
for putting in potting soil. As the freshness of the manure has 
passed away it is very safe and may be used in practically any 
potting soil. It also has the additional advantage of holding 
the moisture well. 

Netting. — ^When melons begin to ripen, the rind or skin 
becomes wrinkled in the manner of network. When this stage 
is reached sjnringing should be discontinued, but as at such a 
time red-spider is likely to gain a foothold it is best to provide 
for such a contingency by syringing well just prior to this 
stage with " Spidacide," a mixture which I have found very 
ef&cacious in dealing with this insidious pest. 

Offsets are young bulbs which form at the side of older 
ones, as in the case of amaryllises, tulips, hyacinths, nerines, 
etc. In most cases it is advisable not to detach them until 
they have a few roots of their own. 



36o THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

OvERPOTTiNG. — To overpot a plant is to remove it to a larger 
size of pot before it is ready for the shift or before it has filled 
the soil in the smaller size with roots. It is an evil which young 
gardeners or over-zealous amateurs are likely to indulge in 
because they wish to grow the plants quickly into large speci- 
mens. The evil is intensified if bad watering is practised 
afterwards, and it is this which usually causes the trouble. 
Until a plant has nicely filled the soil with roots it should not 
be put into a larger pot. 

Perennial. — A plant which grows on year after year is 
called a perennial, to distinguish it from an annual, which lasts 
one year, or a biennial, which lasts two years. 

PicoTEE. — A term applied to a flower which has a very 
narrow fringe of another colour along the edge of the petals. 
It is used chiefly with regard to carnations of the border 
section. 

Pinch. — ^To pinch a plant is to cut off the top of the growing 
shoot. It is called pinching because it is usually done with 
the thumb and finger when the wood is soft, and the object is 
to induce side growths to be pushed out to form a bush-like 
plant. Pinching should not be done immediately after potting, 
else the plant will have to withstand a double check. It is 
advisable in the case of a plant with several side growths to 
pinch them all at the same time, to induce the formation of an 
evenly balanced plant. 

Pits. — Brick enclosures covered with lights which slide up 
and down to admit air and for purposes of attending to the 
plants. Pits may be heated with hot-water pipes or with 
heating material. See pages 29 to 31. 

Plunge. — ^To put a pot plant up to the rim of the pot in 
some material such as garden soil, cocoa-nut fibre, coal-ashes, 
or leaves. This is done to protect the pot from frost or to 
prevent the soil drying out quickly during hot weather 

Pot-bound.— When a plant has filled the soil in a pot with 
roots so as to form quite a mat of them and a solid ball it is 
said to be pot-bound. It is a sign that it requires removal to 



GLOSSARY 361 

a larger pot or, failing this, the plant should receive some 
stimulant in the way of a chemical fertiliser or liquid manure. 
A plant in such a state will need copious supplies of water. 
The term root-bound has precisely the same meaning. 

Prick off. — ^To prick off plants (the term is usually applied 
to seedlings) means to set them a few inches apart in a pan or 
box to induce a sturdier habit than would prevail if they were 
left to grow in the seed-pan. I strongly advise pricking out 
early to give the plants plenty of chance to get away nicely 
and to obviate damping off, which is often induced by 
overcrowding in the seed-pan. 

PsEUDO Bulb. — A false bulb. A term applied to the 
swollen stem or bulblike growth of orchids, such as calanthes, 
cattleyas, and coelogynes. 

Raffia. — ^A dried grass used for tying plants. It has now 
almost entirely superseded matting. It can be bought cheaply 
in bundles. When tying, the raffta should be twisted to 
strengthen it and to give a neat appearance. It may be split 
for tying when no great strength is required. 

Rapper. — A pot-rapper is used for testing pot plants before 
applying water. See page 232 for remarks and illustrations. 

Reef Knot. — This is best described as a square knot, where 
each loose ends stands out the same way as the corresponding 
part of the main portion of the tying material. It is a much 
better knot than the " granny's knot." 

Retard. — ^To delay the growth, the flowering or the fruiting 
of a plant by removal to a cooler, airier and sometimes darker 
place. Plants intended for forcing are often kept in a tempera- 
ture below freezing point, but this is done by those who have 
special apparatus, and cannot be carried on to any considerable 
extent by private growers. 

Return. — The return pipe in the heating apparatus is that 
which carries the water back to the bottom of the boiler after 
the highest point has been reached. Valves are usually set on 
the return pipes to facihtate control, but they do not need the 
same attention as those on the flow pipe. 



362 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Root-bound. — See Pot-bound, 

Root-prune. — ^To cut off the roots of a tree which has been 
growing too vigorously. Peach-trees are very prone to make 
much growth in their young stages, until they get into bearing. 
This can only be checked by lifting the tree and cutting off any 
thick fibreless roots there may be. Often the very fact of lift- 
ing a tree gives it a check sufficient to stop its exuberant 
growth. Root-pruning is best done in the autumn after the 
leaves have fallen. 

Rose. — A sprinkler on a water-pot for the purpose of spread- 
ing the water over a wider area and preventing it from falling 
heavily on to the plants is called a rose. It is necessary to use 
a rose for plants that are newly potted until the soil has set 
firmly enough to allow the open spout to be used. 

Rough-leaf. — ^A plant grown from seed usually gives at first 
two leaves which are known as seed-leaves, and which are 
unlike the ordinary leaves of the plant. Afterwards the leaves 
become of the normal shape. These are known as rough-leaves. 
Some growers delay pricking off plants till the rough-leaf 
appears, but under skilful treatment this precaution is wholly 
unnecessary. 

Rust. — See page 297. 

Scald. — Marks on leaves caused through being burnt by 
the sun. See page 299. 

Seed-leaves. — ^The first leaves which appear on a plant 
grown from seed. They contain nutriment to carry the 
plantlet along until sufficient roots are made to enable it to 
draw its sustenance from the soil. 

Setting. — ^The transition from the flower to the fruit is 
termed setting, and it is generally applied to artificial fertilisa- 
tion, as in the case of fertilising strawberries and tomatoes by 
brushing them lightly with a rabbit's tail. 

Shank. — See page 300, 

Shoulder. — ^The groups of berries on the upper portion of 
a bunch of grapes which spring from the central stem of the 
bunch in the form of a branch are called the shoulder. These 



GLOSSARY 363 

should, when thinning the berries takes place, be tied up clear 
of the other portions of the bunch. 

Shy. — A variety of grape vine which does not set its fruit 
freely is said to be shy. A plant also which does not flower 
freely is called a shy bloomer. 

Span-roofed. — ^A house with two equal spans. Diagram 2, 
page 8, gives a good idea of a span-roofed house. 

Spent. — Manure which has had most of its virtue used is 
said to be spent. The term is usually applied to horse manure 
used for mushrooms, after a crop of mushroom have been 
taken off. As explained under " Mushroom Manure," it is 
very valuable for mixing with potting soil. 

Split. — Ferns and some similar subjects are propagated 
by division of the root stock. In gardening parlance this is 
termed splitting up. It is essential that there be at least one 
bud to each piece, but it is not usual to divide the plants to 
such an extent as this. 

Stem Cuttings. — Those growths suitable for cuttings which 
push out from the stem of the plant are called stem cuttings. 
This is to distinguish them from basal cuttings, which spring 
direct from the root stock of the plant, and are usually to be 
found a few inches away from the stem. For chrysanthemums, 
the basal cuttings are best, as stem cuttings are very liable 
throughout the year to throw premature buds and thus upset 
the calculations of the grower. 

Stool. — After a plant such as a chrysanthemum has had 
its flowers cut the stem is cut to within a foot of the soil. 
This old stem and ball of soil is then called the stool. They 
are preserved for purposes of propagation, for it is from these 
that the cuttings are obtained. 

Stove. — A stove is a plant house with a minimum tempera- 
ture of 65° to 70°, and stove plants are those which need 
this temperature. Stove plants are not now grown to the same 
extent as they were a few decades back, but there is quite 
likely to be a revival. The temperature of a stove may 
be lowered in the winter by about 5". 



364 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 

Strike. — ^To root a cutting is called by gardeners striking, 
and a successfully rooted cutting is said to be struck. Hints 
on rooting cuttings are given on page 207. 

Sub-lateral. — ^As explained under "Lateral," a sub-lateral 
is one which pushes out from a lateral. In the case of the vine 
these sub-laterals are pinched at the first leaf. 

Terminal. — A terminal bud is one which is surrounded by 
other buds and marks the end of the growth of that particular 
shoot. On decorative chrysanthemums the terminal buds are 
always used, but with the large-flowering section the buds 
previous to the terminal are employed. 

Thimble. — A small flower pot two inches in diameter at the 
top. 

Thumb. — A small flower pot two and a half inches in diameter 
at the top, 

Tie Rod. — Iron stays put in the roof of a glass-house to help 
support it. By their use the roof can be made lighter in 
appearance and the woodwork not being so heavy more light 
is admitted. 

Toes. — ^The thick fleshy roots found on dracaenas are called 
toes. If these are cut off about an inch long and put in a 
propagator they will form new plants. 

Tongue. — The piece which is left when marking a plant for 
layering is called a tongue. The layer should be so put in that 
the tongue is kept away from that part of the plant from which 
it was cut. In other words the cut should be left open. 

Top-dress. — ^To put soil over the surface for the purpose of 
nourishing the plant. See page 241. 

Vaporise. — Another v/ord for fumigation. See page 247. 

Wilt. — To flag. If the leaves of a plant droop through lack 
of moisture, excess of sunshine or through some disturbance 
of the root it is said to wilt. 



INDEX 



Abutilon, 129 
Acacia, 129 
Acalypha, 129 
Achimenes, 129 
Agapanthus, 130 
Allamanda, 130 
Aloysia, 130 
Amaryllis, 78 
Anthurium, 130 
Antirrhinum, 123 
Ants. 288 
April, 315 
Aralia, 105 
Araucaria, 130 

Asparagus, greenhouse, 107 ; culin- 
ary, 195 ; (illustrated), 198 
Aspidistra, 100 
Aster, 123 
August, 329 
Auricula, 123 

Autumn, greenhouse in, 145 
Azalea, 39 

Balsam, 130 

Baskets, 143 

Beans, dwarf, 196 ; (illustrated), 

305 

Bedding plants in greenhouse, 146 ; 
(illustrated) , 147 

Bees, 289 

Beetles, 289 

Begonia, 40 ; (illustrated), 41 ; 
winter-flowering, 43 ; dividing 
(illustrated), 309 ; mite (illus- 
trated), 290 

Black-fly, 289 

Boronia, 130 

Bougainvillea, 131 

Bouvardia, 131 

Browallia, 131 

Brugmansia, 131 

Bulbs, 117; potting (illustrated). 



118 



Cactus, 131 

Caladium, 107 

Calanthe, 82 

Calceolaria, 45 

Calendar, greenhouse, 305 

Camellia, 131 

Campanula, 124, 131 

Canna, 131 

Canterbury bells, 124 

Carex, 132 

Carnations, perpetual - flowering, 
47 ; (illustrated), 48 ; border, 
51 ; (illustrated, 316 ; Mal- 
maison, 53 ; potting (illustrated), 

309 

Carrot, 196 

Cattleya, 86 ; fly, 290 

Cauliflower, 196 ; (illustrated), 332 

Celery, pricking off (illustrated), 
312 

Celosia, 54 

Charcoal, 226 

Chorizema, 132 

Chrysanthemums (illustrated), 58 ; 
potting, 60 ; feeding, 61 ; large, 
66 ; supporting (illustrated), 
328 ; buds, 330 

Cineraria, 66 ; (illustrated), 67 

Clarkia, 124 

Clerodendron, 132 

Climbing plants, 140 

Clivia, 132 

Coclcroaches, 291 

Cockscomb, 54 

Coelogyne, 90 

Coleus, loS ; thyrsoideus, 69 ; 
(illustrated), 316 

Compost, how to prepare, 227 ; 
various, 227 

Conservatory, decorating a, 252 ; 
a modest, 19 ; small, 21 ; (illus- 
trated), 20 

Coronilla, 68 



365 



366 



INDEX 



Crassula, 132 

Cress, 197 

Cricket, 291 

Crinum, 132 

Croton, 109 

Cucumber sowing (illustrated), 305 ; 
potting, 316; in frame, 185 

Cuttings, 207 ; (illustrated), 208 ; 
leaf, 209 ; (illustrated), 210 ; 
soil for, 211 

Cyclamen (illustrated), 55 ; pot- 
ting (illustrated), 316 

Cjrpripedium, 85 

Cytisus, 68 

Dahlia (illustrated), 312, 319 
Damping down, 237 ; off, 292 
Datura, 133 
December, 340 
Dendrobium, 89 
Dieffenbachia, 133 
Diosma, 133 
Diplacus, 133 
Dipladenia, 133 
Dracsenas (illustrated), no 
Drying off, 233 

Earwigs, 292 
Edging, plants for, 141 
Eel-worms, 292 
Erica, 133 

Eucharis, 133 ; mite, 292 
Eulalia, 134 
Eupatorium, 134 
Euphorbia, 134 

February, 308 

Feeding, 239 

Ferns, 113 

Fibre, 225 

Ficus, III 

Figs, 188 

Fittonia, 134 

Forcing, house for, 27 ; vegetables, 
193 ; J bulbs for, 117 ; plants for, 
121 

Frame, miniature, 23 ; skeleton, 
32 ; tomatoes in, 183 ; ama- 
teurs, 281 ; miniature, 282 ; 
protecting (illustrated), 283 ; 
care of, 284 



Fire, how to light, 257 ; regulating, 

258 ; banking, 259 
Freesia, 70 ; (illustrated), 71 
Fruit house, small, 23 
Fuchsia, 71 ; (illustrated), 74 
Fumigate, 247 ; (illustrated), 248 

Gardenia, 134 

Geranium, 93 ; bedding (illus- 
trated), 309 

Gesnera, 112 

Gladiolus, 134 ; (illustrated), 339 

Gloriosa, 135 

Gloxinia, 75 ; (illustrated), 76 

Godetia, 124 

Grapes, house for growing, 23 ; 
thinning (illustrated), 160 ; stor- 
ing, 163 

Green-fly, 292 ; (illustrated), 293 

Greenhouse in autumn, 145 ; 
spring, 144 ; summer, 144 ; 
winter, 145 ; site, aspect, size, 4 ; 
shading, heating, 9 ; span-roofed 
(illustrated), 9 ; floors, 10 ; 
stagings (illustrated), 10 ; com- 
pact blocks of (illustrated), 15 

Grevillea, 112 

Habrothamnus, 135 

Handlight, 32 

Hardening, 265, 266 

Heating, 256 

Heliotrope (illustrated), 124, 330, 

332, 335 

Hippeastrums, 78 

Hotbeds, making (illustrated), 193 

Housing plants, 245, 248 ; (illus- 
trated), 249, 257 

Humea, 135 

Hydrangea, 81 

Ipomea, 135 
Isolepsis, 135 
Ixia, 135 
Ixora, 135 

January, 305 
July, 325 
June, 322 

Kochia, 125 



INDEX 



367 



Lachenalia, 135; (illustrated), 

330 
Lantana, 135 
Lapageria, 136 
Layering (illustrated), 175, 176, 

213 ; what to avoid, 215 
Leaf-miner (illustrated), 293, 294 
Leaf-soil, 223 
Leaves, storing, 335 
Lettuce, 196 ; illustrated, 332 
Lilium, 136 

Lily of valley (illustrated), 339 
Lobelia, 125 

Manure, liquid, 239 ; how to 

make, 240 
March, 312 

Marrow (illustrated), 312 
May, 318 
Mealy bug, 294 
Melon, 187 
Mice, 294 
Mignonette, 125 
Mildew, 295 
Mimosa, 136 
Mortar rubble, 226 
Moschosma, 136 
Moss, 225 
Musk, 136 
Mustard, 197 

N^gfxia, 136 
Nectarine, 166 
Nerine, 136 
Nerium, 137 
Nicotiana, 126 
November, 338 

October, 335 
Odontoglossum, 88 
Oleander, 137 
Orange, 137 
Orchid, 82 

Palm, 115 

Pancratium, 137 

Peach, planting, 167 ; pruning 

(illustrated), 16S, 169, 332 ; 

flowering and tlunning, 172 ; 

(illustrated), 319 ; mulching, 

319 



Pandanus, 137 

Panicum, 137 

Peas, sweet (illustrated), 305 

Peat, 225 

Pelargonium, zonal (illustrated), 

91 ; ivy-leaved, 93 ; show, 94 
Pentstemon, 126 
Peperomia, 137 
Pests, greenhouse, 287 
Petunia, 126 
Pit, 27 ; heated (illustrated), 29, 

30 ; cold, 31 
Plant house, ideal (illustrated), 6, 

7.8 

Plants, outdoor for greenhouse, 
123 ; climbing, 140 ; artistic 
arrangement of, 254 ; care of 
young, 273 ; ill-health in, 277 

Plumbago, 137 

Poinsettia, 95 

Potato, forcing (illustrated), 305, 
309 

Pots, sizes of, 216 ; drainage, 217 

Potting, how to pot, 18 ; (illus- 
trated), 219 ; mistakes in, 219 ; 
soil for, 223 

Primula (illustrated), 96, 97 

Propagation, house for, 25 ; ex- 
press, 210 ; difficult subjects, 

212 ; by layers (illustrated), 212, 

213 ; minor methods of, 215 
Propagator (illustrated), 14, 16 

Radishes, 199 

Rapper, pot (illustrated), 232 

Rats, 296 

Red-spider (illustrated), 296 

Richcurdia (illustrated), 99, 100 

Rust (illustrated), 297, 298 

Saintpaulia, 137 

Salvia, 10 1 

Sand, 226 

Scald (illustrated), 299 

Scale (illustrated), 299, 300 

Schizanthus, 102 

Seakale (illustrated), 198 

Seedlings, pricldng out (illus- 
trated), 274, 275, 309, 326; soil 
for, 275 ; frame for, 276 

Seeds, sowing (illustrated), 205, 
206 



368 



INDEX 



September, 332 

Shading, 267 

Shanking, 300 

Sibthorpia, 138 

Smilax, 138 

Soil for potting, 223 

Solanum, 138 

Space, making most of (illustrated), 
13, 14, 250 

Sparmannia, 138 

Splitting, 301 

Spring, greenhouse in, 144 

Staging, greenhouse (illustrated), 
II, 12 ; beneath the, 143 

Staking, 268 ; mistakes in, 271 

Stephanotis, 138 

Stocks, 126 ; (illustrated), 312 

Stoking, 259 

Strawberries, forcing, 174; run- 
ners, 172 ; planting, 174 

Streptocarpus, 103 

Summer, greenhouse in, 145 

Swainsonia, 138 

Sweet-peas, 127, 305 

Syringing, 236 

Thrip (illustrated), 300 

Tomato, 179 ; potting, 179 ; 

(illustrated), 180 ; training, 181; 

top-dressing, 182 ; in frame, 

183 ; (illustrated), 319, 328 ; 

disease (illustrated), 301, 302 
Top-dress, 239, 241 ; (illustrated), 

242 ; space for, 243 ; with 

chemical manures, 244 



Torenia, 138 

Trachelium, 138 

Tradescantia, 138 

Tuberose, 139 

Turf, stack of (illustrated), 221, 

222 
Tying, 269 ; mistakes in, 271 



Vallota, 139 

Vegetables, forcing, 193 

Ventilation, 261 (illustrated), 263 ; 
methods of, 264 

Verbena, 127 

Viola, 127, 335 

Violet, 127 

Vine, propagating (illustrated), 
153, 154 ; training, 157 ; dis- 
budding (illustrated), 157, 158 ; 
syringing, 159 ; stopping, 159 ; 
amateur's, 164 ; border, 155, 
309 ; pruning, 339 

Vinery (illustrated), 24 



Wallflower, 128 

Wasps, 304 

Water, when a plant needs, 229 
mistakes in watering, 230 : 
precepts in watering, 231 

White-fly, 304 

Winter, greenhouse in, 144 

Wire- worm, 303 

Wood ashes, 226 

Wood-lice, 304 



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